demo243 Posted October 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2012 Been busy and havent had much time to work on the car- so been away for a bit. - Few new developements and issues... - Got a temporary passenger belt in; just a lap belt but better then nothing. Going to get a new set of 5 points for both passenger and driver soon -Changed the oil since it was pretty dark- might be burning oil- used 10w-30 Mobil 1 Synthetic- doesnt seem to be leaking as bad - Got tired of the ignition and ghetto key giving me trouble (also found out you could start it with a pair of scissors or similar object) so i pulled the whole ignition off- just running the 2x3 switch right now- need to source a new ignition- question is find the whole thing or try just a replacement cylinder? as the ignition body is fine just the cylinder is bad Here is the big one- - drove it to work yesterday and had a clunk happen twice on the way up- didnt feel anything just heard it. Got to work and realized the two spring bars to hold the trunk open make a very similar sound when they clip together so just thought it was those. - Left work and was in 4th when i got a good solid clunk and then the transmission started whining pretty loud. Stop to see if i could see anything but since the car is so low its hard to tell. Took it easy on the way home- seemed to drive fine- whining quieted down a bit- but now it has a wobbling whirling sound if that makes any sense coming from the trans when coasting in neutral- not connected to engine speed at all. All gears engage smoothly- no power loss. Cruised most the way home when I got the clunk again after shifting into 2nd- not under heavy power. Havent had a chance to get under there and look, but any thoughts? clunks definitely sounded like they came from the rear- once i get this figured out I want to get the brakes bleed and pads replaced - thinking of going with some porterfields Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted October 9, 2012 Report Share Posted October 9, 2012 ck oil lever and ck the U joints. bolts to body ck the trans to engine bolts Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted October 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2012 Oil Level was going to be my first check- probably should have done that already- I may just replace the trans fluid anyway as a precaution and check it off the list hopefully itll be nice the next few evenings and i can get it up on the jackstands and get under there- Thanks banzai510 Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted February 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2013 Been lurking away again for a little while here- but got the fire lit under my ass again and decided its time to show the 510 some love again- Just order some parts to help it STOP... Goodrich Stainless Steel Lines - ATE Super Blue Fluid - Porterfield R4-S Pads/Shoes- Also got a Speedo Cable and the MSD Adapter to hopefully get my tach working- oh and two new harnesses as well - now the passenger wont have to worry about smacking their face on the dashNow the waiting game... damn shipping from CA While I've got her up on stands going to do to prob change the diff and trans oil Autocross Rookie school is March 23rd so planning for that Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted February 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2013 Wahoo! Got a working tach! I know you all like pictures but there isnt much to take shots of- If anybody ends up stumbing on this or finds it in a search- Im running the MSD 6A and a stock 71' 4 wire tach (2 white looped wires - green 12v - black ground). Required the MSD 8920 Tach adapter set up in the current mode (not magnetic)- Ended up mounting the tach adapter on the outside of the driver footwell just behind the hood release- then ran all the wires up behind the dash- threaded the Black ground and the white tach output wire through the firewall. Connected the ground to a ground and the white to the tach output of the 6A. On the inside the purple wire off the adapter is unused. As for wiring up the red wire to the tach Im not sure which side it is on for the looped wires. The way my tach is wired up the two white looped wires connect to different color wires. One connects to a green/white wire and the other to a green/black wire. I ended up connecting the red wire to the black/green wire as it wasnt connected to anything else and when i tried the red to the white/green wire it didnt work. stuffed everything back into the rats nest and put it all back together. Tested it just starting it in the garage and all seems to be well. bounces a bit at idle but smoothed out during the revs- need to get out on the road and she how accurate it looks/sounds hopefully have my speedo cable tomorrow and ill get all 4 gauges working ! Parts for the brakes next week- Cheers Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted February 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2013 First bit of Datsun Goodies - Pads and Harness's tomorrow and hopefully some Federal 595s later this week. Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted March 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2013 Drove her like I stole her today.... Then came home and put her up on jackstands to do brakes and tires this week Also signed up for autocross rookies school on march 23rd and the no points race on the 24th! Just need a helmet now Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted March 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2013 Alright update time- Drained my brake fluid the other day... was pretty nasty looking Then my tires came in a day early... and I got my brake parts and harnesses onetime like Christmas a few months late - Wahoo! Then after a bunch of PB Blaster soaking... a few swears... a few scares that I might strip a nut on the hard lines... a trip to Sears for some Flarenut wrenches (KEY!!! These Make a World of Difference)... a few more swears... a bit more PB Plaster... another scare that I was twisting the hard line... some more PB Blaster... And I have Stainless Steel Brake Lines! Havent rebleed the system yet, but i did hook up the power bleeder and it seemed to hold air pressure. Tires are off getting mounted so should have those back tomorrow. Next step is bleed the system with cheap napa fluid to get the air completely out- then rebleed it with ATE Super Blue. Once Bleed time to change the pads- installing Porterfield R4-S pads/shoes. Then the final step is the bolt in the new harnesses. Also realized I have a split half shaft boot... bummer... need to order up those parts and rebuild those soon- found a good write up on them though --- http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=22413 Pretty Stoked that I am finally getting some work done on the Dime thinking I might make up a stencil for some BRE Racing Stripes on the Fenders/Doors Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted March 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2013 Brake system reblead- Motiv Power Bleeder definitely helped- although i did end up doing a mix between the power bleeder and the gheto 2x4 to hold the brake pedal down method- which made a big difference... but i also completely cleared out the system to install the brake lines so had to rebleed the two master cylinders as well. bench bleed might have been better but i didnt pull the masters. either way the pedal feels pretty good right now- next up - flush the system with ATE super Blue- then pad/shoes install porterfield R4-S - harness install and put the wheels back on and hoon her - first autox is coming up soon! Just another night working away in the garage - while progress is slower then it should be, i am just taking my time and trying not to mess anything up, and really enjoying working on her- exactly what i had hoped for when i bought her - Thanks again Brad ( Mr. Bohica )! - Haven't seen if youve been back on here but I hope you find yourself another Dime- and this one is in good hands Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 8, 2013 Report Share Posted March 8, 2013 A write up said Acetone ATF(5050 mix) fluid is better that PB Blaster. I use a plastic bottle and a long plastic line to bleed. If the bubbles are far away no way they will come all the way back up the line to the brake. pwer bleeder is better as you dont push the master the full length and maybe pop them as there might be a ridge in cly that rippes the plunger/seal Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted March 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2013 I was using a power bleeder @ about 13 psi - didnt seem to want to clear the air out of the masters - so I tried the pump method in conjunction with the power method and that seemed to work well. was going to either put the pads in or reflush with ATE tonight but got home to late. My plan was to flush with ATE first and then do pads/shoes to avoid any possibility of contamination. Just need to be careful not to over flow the reservoir - Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted March 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2013 Realized I forgot to check my wheel bearing when I out it up- so mounted the wheels back up and went around and checked all 4 corners.... Good news is I think my bearings are fine.... Bad news is I have 12-6 play in both front wheels and rear passenger.... Front wheels appear to have play when pulled from the top - Rear seems to be a bit of both push and pull... If you have any thought of where to start looking for play let me know please- time for me to start searching.., Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted March 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2013 Fixed one front wheel- hub nut was finger tight- half way through the other side- Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted March 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2013 Think I have the front ones figured out and fixed... stuck on the rears I have the drum and shoes removed- and if I grab the lugs I can wiggle the plate slightly from 12-6- it apears to be wiggling through the hub housing - which leads me to believe it is bad bearings.... :( - My haynes manual doenst make it seem nearly as bad as what I have read here - but they also talk about a self locking nut and 58ft lbs torque.... Am I just mixing things up? does this sound like a wheel bearing issue? - it definitely isnt a suspension issue... as I can see that it moves on either side of the hub- thanks in advance for the help! trying to get her completely together and ready for the autocross in just over a week- Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted March 15, 2013 Report Share Posted March 15, 2013 replied on your other thread. i like this line "at 180MPH, do you where your nuts are?" Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted March 15, 2013 Report Share Posted March 15, 2013 but they also talk about a self locking nut and 58ft lbs torque.... 58' lbs is wrong! mine came loose. 240' lb is crazy, but supposedly accurate Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted March 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2013 58' lbs is wrong! mine came loose. 240' lb is crazy, but supposedly accurate From my research that seams to be what I am reading,... sounds crazy but if thats what they say.... Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted March 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2013 If interested in following my rear wheel bearing research/ install check this thread http://community.ratsun.net/topic/53166-rear-wheel-bearing-issue-71-510-4dr/?do=findComment&comment=873408 Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted March 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2013 Rear wheel bearing project on hold.... waiting for sealed bearings from NAPA - they originally gave me two unsealed bearings and the outer is supposed to be sealed- said screw it and ordered 4 sealed bearings so I will have seals on both bearings- and have the bearings/seal/nut if I ever need to redo it or do the other side- Got the 5 point harness in for the passenger- going to go do the driver harness right now- Once I get the wheel bearing done - I will install the new pads and shoes and bleed the whole system with super blue and it should be done- Hang tight for pictures... going to be a big post sooner or later Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted March 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2013 Alright- Picture Update- Nothing particularly special but yea posting them anyway Had to cut 3 of the 4 bolts off that connect the half shaft flanges- they just werent budging Kinda tough to see - but the peened nut trimmed down- You do not need to removed the whole edge of the nut! - just trim it to weaken it- left all the threads on the stub axle complete and unharmed Looks like the rear driver had already been done... and they trimmed into the stub axle :( decided not to replace that side Leverage- Nut came off easy as pie Stub axle removed- Old bearing still in the trailing arm Because Race Car - Passenger can sit on a milk crate to save weight Just kidding- Passenger now has a 5-point harness Divers seat out 5 Points for both passenger and driver Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted March 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2013 Alright heres an update and one I think you will all enjoy- Had a few stressful nights last week... Got all my parts in to finish the rear wheel bearing on Wednesday - had to source the halfshaft flange bolts directly from Nissan and had to rig up a bearing press with some washers and a carriage bolt from home depot... alot harder then you would expect to find big enough washers... but got the rear wheel bearing in and torqued down- finished up about 1:15 am on Wednesday night with that- Thursday replaced the pads and shoes with the Porterfield R4-S - which so far I am pretty happy with- and bled the brakes- went out around 12:30 thursday night to bed the pads in and the pedal was a bit mushy, and then firm and then mushy and just all over the board so something wasnt right- called it a night at about 1:30 - Friday left work early came home and bled the Brake MC- got some air out pedal felt a little better- had a buddy come over and rebleed the brakes from the calipers- no air all clear- pedal was still soft though - bleed the rear half of the MC no air no problem - bled the front half... got air... then clear... then air... then clear... then air... obviously had a bad MC And as it usually goes I was supposed to go to AutoX rookie school the next morning. A quick check on Autozone, Napa and the other local parts stores revealed no MC for the 510- a few minutes on here and I found out a 240/260/280z MC will bolt right in, but becuase of the bigger bore will give a bit stiffer pedal feel. Lucky me- autozone had the 280z MC- ran down and got that. came home compared everything, it all looked good- reservoirs transferred over great this should be no problem... snapped one of the hardlines... Back to autozone to pick up 2 hardlines... got those got home.. bench bled the MC- Leaks like a sive... its now 9 at night and I have a bad MC- back on the autozone site- the other store has one- call and confirm- rip down there to get it. back home at 10 with the 2nd new MC. Bench bleed it, and it works great. Install it, bend the lines, tighten them up, check for leaks, bleed the brakes- they feel GREAT! nice stiff pedal- put everything else back together, get the wheels on her, drop her down and test drive at 1:15am- bed the pads in, everything is good. Pack the car for autoX the next day - lights out at 2:30am Up at 6:30 for Rookie school- get there early pass tech no problem and off the day goes- spent the morning running a slalom course and a couple ovals and the afternoon on a full course- really helped me learn how the care handles and where its limits were as well as get a better idea of how to navigate the sea of cones. Got home, checked her over again, retorqued my front axle nuts and all the wheels. Up early sunday to go race- Sunday was Awesome! ripped 9 runs total- 7 timed and 2 fun - first lap was a 66 -2nd a 64 - 3rd a 62- and 4,5,6,7 were all 61 and change. Really got to push the 510 and she ran like a champ and just begged for more- full blown 2nd gear romps around the course- maxing out 2nd coming through the back slalom. Hooked- will definitely be going back again for the next event. And now what you have all been waiting for- shots of the 510 ripping around - the first photo is actually from the end of the day - they let me drive all day saturday and most of sunday and pass tech both days with the chrome trim rings, but on my 6th run I was informed I would have to remove them before my next run- oh well, kinda like the look with out them - thinking of maybe getting some black chrome aero racing 15s instead of the panasport looking wheels Quote Link to comment
cjzeppy Posted March 27, 2013 Report Share Posted March 27, 2013 That thing is finally seeing some track time! Congrats on getting her ready for race day! Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted March 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2013 it was close... almost didnt make it- but had a blast. next race is the 14th Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted May 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2013 A few more from the last couple Auto X Events Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted May 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2013 a few more 1 Quote Link to comment
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