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demo243

Red 71 4dr - Carbed KA24DE

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Edit***** Well  Photobucket screwed this thread as well.... I have since deleted my photobucket account and removed all photobucket links as I move forward with Flickr. If I ever get around to it I will try and update some of the older posts... but realistically it wont happen... sorry... 

 

Photos begin again on Page 20

 

or check my thread on the realm - http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=30510

 

36781637212_7b768d88fa_z.jpgIMG_2198 by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr

 

                                                                                                                                                                                   

 

Been a lurker for quite some time now-but finally found myself a 510.

Stumbled upon Brad's (Mr. Bohica) 71 4dr on craiglist and after a couple weeks of talking things over I made the trek down to Maryland and picked it up. Super stoked to finally have a 510- already have it registered and driving around.

Still needs a bit of love though- First things to take care of
-Find out why the battery isn't charging (got a good 10 starts or so out of it no problem; and then nothing this evening at work, got a jump, 45 minute drive later, and nothing when I got home)
-Get all the gauges hooked up- some of them sometimes work?? Temp gauge worked for half the drive to work today- tack bounces around sometimes- need a speedo cable as well, and need to connect the fuel gauge
-Need to get some air cleaners on the stacks- got some from Brad but they are definitely not deep enough so need to decide what I want to run from their
-come up with a way to connect either a belt or harness for the passenger seat
-decide what I want to do about mirrors- need some more time with the wink mirror to decide if i like it or not
-transmission has a pretty good whine in 4th and 5th; but that could be just the shear lack of deadening material
- would like to relocate the ebrake as well sometime-

Probably going to leave the paint and body as it is for right now- same for the interior- although i may toss a head unit and some speakers in there- this beast is loud and something to drown the sound out might help

There will definitely be plenty of questions... and any suggestions are welcome.. Ill do my best to keep this updated.

Thanks again Brad! Stoked to have a 510!

Here are some oics of the journey- 7:30am to 9:30pm- Tacoma hauled it like a champ-

Uhaul didnt want to rent me the full trailer... Said the Tacoma wasnt big enough- Called the place in Stamford and they didnt care at all


Riding a little bit low; fully loaded;


What a view to have for the 6 hour ride back


Night shot- little bit of editing made for a cool shot- love the yellow lights and the grill badge



And here is a link to Brad's thread for more history on it-

http://community.rat...ge__hl__memoirs

Edited by demo243
update
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right on! one clean dime for your 1st. keep the pics coming.

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Welcome to the 510 world. Great car. Glad to see it got a good home.

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I like this car.

 

kinda funky fuel routing. Fuel comes from the drivers side to the fuel pump which is not a 510 one.All 510 lines come from the under neath from the passenger side to the fuel pump then out as you have it.

 

I see prveios owner hid the wires.

 

temp guage its this stock? try seating the instrument connector in back.

 

Fuel gause is a wire in center of tank. see if that hooks up and does soemthing.

If not try gorunding the wire and see what the gause does.

My gauge hasnt worked in years but I have a trip meter i use and fill up every 170-180 miles to be safe.

 

 

for the carb air cleaners they make a foam sock to fit over.

 

YOu can get new cables for the speedo. stock 4 sp or 200sx77-79 5 speed can use same 510 cable

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I like this car.kinda funky fuel routing. Fuel comes from the drivers side to the fuel pump which is not a 510 one.All 510 lines come from the under neath from the passenger side to the fuel pump then out as you have it.I see prveios owner hid the wires.temp guage its this stock? try seating the instrument connector in back.Fuel gause is a wire in center of tank. see if that hooks up and does soemthing.If not try gorunding the wire and see what the gause does.My gauge hasnt worked in years but I have a trip meter i use and fill up every 170-180 miles to be safe.for the carb air cleaners they make a foam sock to fit over.YOu can get new cables for the speedo. stock 4 sp or 200sx77-79 5 speed can use same 510 cable
Thanks for the tips banzai -Im going to guess that the fuel pump was put in with the engine swap and probably came from the donor but who knows- Car runs quite well, was idling a little high but I stopped by one of the local vintage shops (Stonebridge Performance) and Mike was nice enough to take a minute and make some small adjustments to bring down the idle- car sounds great at idle now- definitely have alot of learning to do on these carbsThe fuel gauge is stock and it is wired, so i believe I just need to hook it up- same thing with the temp gauge-Speedo definitely needs a cable- so good to know that those should work- although I am unsure exactly what 5spd is in itSpent last night looking into air cleaners and I do not know what I want to run- definitely want some sort of foam or cloth filter on them (not just a wire mesh)- and I like the idea of a stack "sock" or the pop on filters just for simplicity-Thanks everyone- keep the tips coming- I am jumping into the deep end on some of this electrical stuff-

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I think you just have some minor issues on the electrical.

 

maybe take soem close up shots of the wire set ups and post them

 

also the distributor. Looks like a Unilite set up. What ever coil is in there just leave it. As Unilites will pop the module if the wrong coil installed. If this is the proven set up from the org owner then leave it.

 

Temp could be the sender in the lower stat housing. Clean the end and reconnect. However if the sender is bad its a MOFO to get out and crack the housing. So let us know if you fix or want to repair. I have spare new housing with the 16mm hex sender holder.

 

Fuel gauge still could be the sender in the tank.

If both the fuel gauge and the temp gauge are fucked doing the same thing then its the volt reg in the instrument panel. A alum squre can looking thing.

 

The tack should be on the -side but sine you got a Unilite in combo with a MSD 5A ,there is drawings on how to hook this up.On the web somewhere.

 

if your 5 speed is the 1 with the 1st gear is on the bottom then you got a gen 1 200sx known as a dog leg. If 1st gear is on top then most like a 280 longtail. There could the the later 200sx 5sp with 1st on top but it puta a 15 angle and feels like the 5th gear is way in the passenger side. So youll have X memeber issues

 

the 4th 5 gear whine? Well you need to take photos of underneath anyways and we can look if the tail shft is correct height and preloading the end . Some people made hooke X memebers. Carter Boad on here sells soem better ones and youll need the correct spacer for it.

 

also can you take a closer photo of what looks like a heater hose going to the carbs underneath the fuel hose. That look like a Hotwater line from the water intake hose goes around the head to the manifold. I never knew Mikuni had heated Sidedraft manifolds. Ir is this a optical illussion and really Mikuni never made one and its just dead ends there. Or Im not getting this picture right. edit:: OK I see it now looks like a water bypass elbow on there

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The funky fuel line routing was a temporary fix. I used the original return line, or possibly the vent line, to get fuel to the engine. The original supply line was clogged badly! The Mikuni intake is not heated. Must be an optical illusion! The wiring was done legit. Everything that was hooked up when I took delivery of the car is still connected. I guess that doesn't mean the previous owner didn't mess something up, however! Regarding the charging issue: I assumed that the charge light was from the battery sitting and being low on charge. Since you are still having problems, I'd try swapping in a new IR alernator. This is the second car that the alernator has been on that had charging light on. The external regulator plug is tucked up behing the glove box if you wanted to go back to an ER alternator. Don't forget that the green wire that is taped to the tach wiring behind it is the signal wire from the MSD. You have done more with the car, on the road that is, than I did in eight months. I'm jealous!

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Got a few minutes to play with it this evening before it got dark- with a jump it starts right up- volts out of the battery and the alt are around 11.75 - didnt get to check the amps- headlights are super dim- battery i think is good since I probably got a solid 10+ starts out of it with no issue- and then nothing

 

Looking like rain tomorrow so probably no chance to play with it- need to get a cover since its outside- hopefully saturday will be nice to I can take sometime and figure this stuff out.

 

Ill be back with more questions and some answers soon enough lol-

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Demo243,

Cool to see you found a 510. Like when you called me I said its tough finding a good one in the NE and you might have to travel a bit to get the right one.

 

Let me know if you need anything. I have culled a few parts from the rusted hulks I've dragged home over the years.

 

As for air cleaners, contact Todd Walrich at Wolf Creek Racing. He sells Empi air cleaners that fit between the master cylinder and the carbs usintg the short mikuni manifold.

 

Here are the ones I run.

P1010464.JPG

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11.75 volts across the batter is BAD!!!!!!!!!!!

running it should be at least 13.5 with nothing On

14.1 would be better.

 

If this is a IR tyep alternaot you have to ask for a 79 200 sx type.

As Mr. BOHICA said the regulator connector should have 2 jumper wires in it as this is the IR alt conversion.

 

pull that alternator and have it cked. If good then maybe the jumpers are not installed or you have a externsl reg alt in there and the ext volt reg should be installed back in there.

 

 

Dime Dave,

I used to have aircleaners like that but i had the short very short air horns. He might have to put those on a disc sander to shorten them up as it might be clost to plugging them up on the inside and to close to the cover paert those blocking good airflow.

 

I was told you can still run the airhorns inside so the horn provides a smooth airflow around the corners.

 

make sure to use locking washers and maybe small screw locktight so you dont suck a nut or washer in.

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Off it was 11.75- Running it was around 12

 

Gonna check the amperage out of it and probably pull it to go have it checked- unfortunately its raining already so probably not today.

 

I have some redline air cleaners that are very similar to those- I guess I could run them if I took the stacks off- I would love to keep the stacks on there though, although if they are going to be covered by a cleaner then the aesthetic aspect of them is no longer there

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YOu dont need to ck the amerage out.

12v is still bad. 12.75v is still BAD.Esp with nothing on. heater lights wipers ect.....

 

 

 

Like I said you need at least 13.5v I would call this good at least with a 50amper alt.

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So my guess is its probably the alternator since is a 60 amp-

 

Ill pull it and get it checked- if they say its bad Ill order a new one- looks like I can get the 79 200sx 60amp internal alt for like 55 bucks from autozone

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I have air horns under my filters. The bell needs to be trimmed back on the on the outer edge to clear the element. It is maybe 1/4 - 1/3 of the circumfirence that is effected. Better than no air horns.

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Todd from Wolfcreek said he has some big 3.5" K&N Style ones that would clear them so that is an option- or one of the clamp on or snap on individual filters... but I am unsure of their actual filtering capabilities so ill prob go with Todd's

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APT in California sells short stumpy machined aluminum "stub stacks" that work really well on the British SU's (btw they should fit the Hitachi SU's, just haven't looked into it), and I would think that there is somebody out there making these for the Weber sidedrafts.......maybe even APT!

 

http://www.aptfast.com/ListItems/SubCategory/SU%20Carburetors/Stub%20Stacks%20and%20Ram%20Pipes.aspx

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Went ahead and ordered the big filters from Todd at Wolfcreek- should allow me to keep the big stacks-

Only got a chance to do one thing to the Datsun today...

Added the get out of the way arrow-

Tried to get a shot of the alternator for my own purposes this is the only one that came out clean- going to pull it in the am and get it tested- probably going to have to order a new one

 

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I remember when I bought Little Miss Sunshine from Brad I got to hear this little red devil start up and idle. Man does it sound mean! Can't wait to see where this goes!

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Got the problem figured out- the alternator on there 14118 is an externally regulated alternator for the original 510 motor- ordering a new internally regulated alternator for a 200sx that should do the trick-

 

Also found out the trunk leaks like a sive- so time to pony up for a car cover

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New rubber trunk seals are still available from Nissan, and it should be cheaper than the guy selling on eBay! Call Riley at Lynchburg Nissan in VA 800-443-2117. He is a cool dude, and will try to get anything for your 510, that is still available from Nissan.

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Got the problem figured out- the alternator on there 14118 is an externally regulated alternator for the original 510 motor- ordering a new internally regulated alternator for a 200sx that should do the trick-

 

Well did you look at the volt reg connector if it has the 2 wires installed?????????????????

If yes then order the 200sx IR alternator.

But I think it would have been ezer to just buy the external volt reg (a solid state unit is usually cheaper) and put plug it in that bending over pulling out a alternator.

 

cant believe the previos owner was running this like that. I seen this before where a ext volt reg was still on and a IR alter was installed.

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External regulator is long gone-

 

Alternator tested bad as well- got the IR one for a 200sx bolted it in - hooked it up - charge light is gone and it starts no hesitation

 

Next up- start working on the gauges-

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get volt reading on it with lights and wipers on there.

 

Most time bad cables/corrossion and half assed Alternators are the proplem on these things.

 

pull the pullug to let the water drain.

 

buy this and plug in cig lighter(if you have one). They work great and you can monitor the voltage while driving and when you load it down. They work good and dont drain the battery. also cks for over voltage Like above 15 volts. Sign of bad regulator.

 

http://equus.com/Product/3721/Battery-Monitor

 

theres different version of these and work well. Not need to buy stupid AMP meters.

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