second coil...loses spark... with ei...?????

[banzai510(hainz)]

Jrock

soem Matcbox dizzy have a tab that is grounded. you just route a wire to a better ground.

 

Most cars I usually dont see a ground wire but it might fix your proplem.

 

 

Im thinkign if your choke wire is hook up to the BLK/WHT wire maybe your drawing to much current from the coil thus is getting weak or soemthing. I think the Ignition fuse would pop but who knows.

[jrock4224]

I would separate or disconnect the choke wire If your taking power off the BLk/WHT wire(if Im understanding you correctly. and see what that does.

 

Im 99% positive there should NOT be a 2nd wire from the - side coil unless you got a tach or soemthing. If you do have a wire on - side try removing that also.

C has only 1 wire and it goes to -side coil

 

 

72 521 have a ppower for a choke trhat routied from the firewall to the carb.

71 I believe was a manual carb.

 

 

my 72 I either wire the electric choke back on the carb or buy a weber 5A manual. As I have bad luck adjusting them once I fucked with them.

 

when i removed the choke wire iniatlly it fired right up....i was like sweet the coil in the choke must be grounding or something ... bu t it wouldn't restart when i went back to it....

 

like i said once when i had a similar intermittance problem it was that i switched to a diff ignition... swapped back to my old warn out start with anything pointy or sharp ign...and it was fine... should i try and bypass it ... like i said after i unhooked the choke t fired right up.... but after about a half hour i went out and tried and it wouldnt even try to start ... i thought i had messed it up adjusting the carb ... but never touched it till yesterday at home then boom...start up fine....

 

any thoughts on my ignition switch?

[jrock4224]

so your thinking if i ground the housing it might be the issue,...like i said i see no igntion ground .in or around the coil or dist....one hooks to the coil and the matchbox and one hooks to that box onthe inner fender..... one wire goes to the unit and one goes to that three lead box on the fender ...drivers side...

 

 

side nopte does the coil gorund through its mounting... as i am only running one screw as muy old coil was to big and i couldnt get a second bolt in it...so i have been running one.. i dont notice its loose at all during these probelmes but i am also relying on one bolt and two painted surfaces

[banzai510(hainz)]

well the choke is just a pc of wire that is just a higher resisitance short.iTS JUST A PC OF METAL WHEN CURRENT GOES THRU IT MOVES IT

Dont hook it back up. !!!!!!!!!! run it for a awhile like this.

as the choke heats up if must the resistance changes. I dont know if higher or lower.

 

loosen the 3 screw on the choke plate and dial it back so the choke flap is open. Of coase I could never get it right again once i fuck with then, just to let you know.

[banzai510(hainz)]

so your thinking if i ground the housing it might be the issue

 

THE 510 REALM SAYS THAT ALL THE TIME. YOu have to figure theres a gasket from the front cover and the dizzy and only 2 bolts grounding it. I think it would be good but other say different.

 

 

"one wire goes to the unit and one goes to that three lead box on the fender ...drivers side..."

I dont know what this is.

 

side nopte does the coil gorund through its mounting???????

NO!!!!!!its isolated or should be.. Newer coils are epoxy cased

[ggzilla]

The choke won't hurt. I run several Datsuns like that. It doesn't draw enough current to matter.

 

This sounds like an intermittent wiring connection. Of course it would work sometimes, but not another.

 

The other possibility is an overheating coil, which stops working when it gets hot. If you put a matchbox on it, yet use a non-matchbox coil, that's probably the issue.

[jrock4224]

well the choke is just a pc of wire that is just a higher resisitance short.iTS JUST A PC OF METAL WHEN CURRENT GOES THRU IT MOVES IT

Dont hook it back up. !!!!!!!!!! run it for a awhile like this.

as the choke heats up if must the resistance changes. I dont know if higher or lower.

 

loosen the 3 screw on the choke plate and dial it back so the choke flap is open. Of coase I could never get it right again once i fuck with then, just to let you know.

 

yeah i kinda became the master of choke adjustment after trying and fucking mine up so many times i got it pretty good now i think....

[jrock4224]

swapped to a ei cl a while back.......

 

hainz stop yellin i'm right here.... i will take a pic of the thing i called a thing earlier....

 

over heating the coil.... i don't think so cause its happened with out even developing any heat in the motor... but i agree it acts like it kinda ...

 

no thoughts on ign switch maybe maybe.......

 

i have changed all the motor/batt grounds to either four gauge or the ground strap ... even added a extra but i see what u mean about the housing grounding...

[banzai510(hainz)]

I havent really seen a switch go bad.

I guess one way to ck is hookup a Amp meter to the BLK/WHT wire then put amp meter inside the cab then route the wire back to the +side coil where the BLK/Wht wire was. Then start and drive it and see what the meter does when it goes out if it cuts out to Zero amps. 14volt / . 7 ohm coil is about 20amps. Unfortunately most hand held meters are about 10amps

 

As for the choke trouble shooting. I say just remove it incase, But as GG Zilla says hes works. I have see others work but just to isolate the system

[jrock4224]

I havent really seen a switch go bad.

I guess one way to ck is hookup a Amp meter to the BLK/WHT wire then put amp meter inside the cab then route the wire back to the +side coil where the BLK/Wht wire was. Then start and drive it and see what the meter does when it goes out if it cuts out to Zero amps. 14volt / . 7 ohm coil is about 20amps. Unfortunately most hand held meters are about 10amps

 

As for the choke trouble shooting. I say just remove it incase, But as GG Zilla says hes works. I have see others work but just to isolate the system

 

on my mazda i have a 32/36 and had the choke hooked up thee too and experienced problems with that truck .... but i did ias i did in my 521 first....this is my fav kinda issue its intermitent.....really makes u wanna road trip or hit the streets ....luckily it was down hill to my house from the last time it happened ...my truck wont track straight backwards either....front end is garbage...it shakes like a beast frm 60 to senty then stops and if u slow down and then clmb back through the 70 range it wont do it... makes me think combo of wide tires that i havef to over come the toe out condition but once at speed it ownt duplicate the issue....i got a full front end sitting here so when i do the suspension that will be fixed...but right now i will do as hainz has asked just leave the choke off an see if that fixes it ..i odnt know about trying to drive around with a coupe meters hooked up... im terrible at mulittasking..

[banzai510(hainz)]

When using a AMP meter the meter becomes like a wire in series with the circut.. So if your ignition swithc goes open your meter will drop to zero.

 

to me the module is the weakest link and the ground(ez to route a wire)

 

To me NO way 2 EI coils can go bad.

 

To me a car running at 14 volts going thru a .7 ohm Ei coil is about 20amps and its getting close to exceding the limit of the fuse. and than adding a choke coil also. might be draining power from the coil to give a good spark.

Or so much amps going thru the key switch is getting it HOT also. I use a Pertronix with the stoch type set up and it only draws 4.35 amps at 14volts with 3.2 ohms total.So Im positive my switch isnt getting hot

 

see what happens

[ggzilla]

I havent really seen a switch go bad

I have. I first replaced a Datsun ignition switch in 1985. I even bought one from Rockauto that was bad right out of the box. It happens from time to time. Easy to test with a voltmeter or trouble-light.

 

14 volts going thru a .7 ohm Ei coil x 52 degree dwell = 7.2 amps. Which means a LOT hotter than a points coil, but nowhere near the fuse rating.

[jrock4224]

alright so tonight spent some time onthe truck started and let it run for fifteen nothng...ran fine ....metered the positive side and read 13.8.... shut it off.... tried to restart it sounded like it was running on two cylinders stalled and never restarted....

 

 

metered the coil both sides with it in run position......12.8 both sides.....hmmm wierd ... check the wiring think about the blue with white wire on the negative side ...pull off the blue with white...(i think i called it blue with yellow, in proper light its blue with white...so i pull it off ...turn the key boom fires right up.....runs great ...decided to test positive and negative when itr running.... + was 13.8 and neg side is jumping between 10.5 and 9. still runs .... still not sure what blue with white is for its not hooked up now and still runs...only place i can find blue with white is this piece ont eh drivers side inner fender...pics loading

[jrock4224]

 

inner drivers side fender

 

 

blue with white that was on the neg terminal

 

 

coil....black wire terminalless is the choke wire i yanked off on the positive side is the black with yellow and a black with red larger 10 guage wire and the black with white

[ggzilla]

My truck also has an extra wire by the coil. It runs funny if I hook it up (tachometer jumps and low rpm bogs down), so I leave it unconnected.

[jrock4224]

That's kinda what mine does but it's Wierd cause it was fine for so long and the only thing I changed is the tranny .......although there's some wires on the tranny that I didnt hook up ..... I though I got the back up lights right but I must grabbed the wrong wires

[banzai510(hainz)]

blu and whit is not needed.

 

that relay you picture is not needed also.

 

once you go to a Matchbox

all you need is the blk/wht wire(should be kinda thicker that the others)

the the hot start wire(blk red I believe it is). on 521s there will be 2 wires in that lug. one that used to come from the out side of the ballast resisitor and the START(blk/red) wire in 1 lug.

Matchbox

B to + coil

C to - coil

 

 

thats it.

[jrock4224]

so whats the two wires on the positive side extra then... sounds like as per your direction that i have it right now an i can remove the box ion the fender ... how many of the ones on the passenger side can i remove....i know when i webered my mazda i could remove everything including the computer... although i have a ton of emmissions stuff on that truck.... when i webered my 521 i didn't really remove anything...so can i remove all those boxes on the passenger side... i been so lazy theres still a brand new voltage reg on thee that i bi passed when i ir alt the truck...

 

 

 

thanks again hainz and gzilla for all the help.....i super appreciate it.... i wonder why it worked ok for so long...

[banzai510(hainz)]

Be honest when I first saw the relay I thought it look like a horn relay.

I think its a 3rd gear switch dual point deal, But I never really reshearched it deep into them on 521s

I would just wrap the wires back under new black tape so it blends in better. and keep it incase you need to go back to a stock point dizzy.

But really on a point dizzy I just make a new 1 wire use the main side points(if running a dual point dizzy) and just put it to the - side coil.

 

On my 510 I took all the 3rd gear switch wireing out. relays and fireway switch out.

 

so whats the two wires on the positive side extra then????

1 come from B from Matchbox

1 is the blk /wht wire (12volt Key ON)

 

Is this what you mean?

 

Dont matter it working right now

[jrock4224]

was refering to the black with red and black with yellow that share a lug but i see u explained thats common on trucks....it might be the horn relay actuually i dont have any horns as of now...i just roll down the window and flip the bird

[jrock4224]

Def most likey going to be a wiring issue. Break put the ol multi-meter and solder/seal where needed.

 

I think most of us have had this happen on at least one datsun :console:

 

Yes indeed the ballast resistor should be bypassed if the case.

 

Shorts occur in engine harnesses as well. While running (when you get it running that is) wiggle the harness quickly and carefully.

 

 

i believe u and zilla are the winners... after hours and hours o head banging trying things and them not working i pulled the match box out , well started too.... only got as far as the b terminal when i found a broken... spade..... must been arcing and got it brittle broke it right in half....why do i always have to look like a tool when it turns out my shit is ust a simple thing... again thanks for all the help hainz zilla and everyone...

[I'm BLUE]

Thats awesome man !!!!

 

Glad you found the solution !

 

Even better it is a low cost issue :) !

 

Put a wiring kit for emergency in it and roll down the highway mango.

[jrock4224]

Thats awesome man !!!!

 

Glad you found the solution !

 

Even better it is a low cost issue :) !

 

Put a wiring kit for emergency in it and roll down the highway mango.

 

crimpers and assorted shit already added... thanks guys

[banzai510(hainz)]

well you got a few new coils!!!!!!!!!!!!

[jrock4224]

yup made it to blue lake and back .... now a i have a rear brake issue.....