second coil...loses spark... with ei...?????

[jrock4224]

ok tried to drive the 521 and got six blocks away...lost spark restarted only to lose it again... pushed it back home verified i have no spark again..... could it be my e i module..grrrr. wierd thats its sporadic... has taken out both coils now....got a msd blaster 2 might throw in there but dont wanna eat coils for lunch...

[ggzilla]

Sounds like a loose connection. Is your matchbox facing away from the exhaust manifold? If not it could be overheating.

 

Your two coils might be fine. Why two coils, do you have a Z24 eight-plug engine?

[DatWifey]

Not two coils at once.... this is the second coil he's gone through in the past couple weeks or so..... one at a time.

[jrock4224]

so the match box is away frm exhaust but close to rad line......i am not sure on the origination of a the dist ... I bought it here...i will go see if i got the pms still....the coil though the first one i thought was the right one although much larger than even the points coil....the parts store now thinks they go the numbers wrong when they pulled it ... well i put the one from the blue two door 510 that was running the same dist... and it was working fine again....then sunday ...blah...i dont think its heat cause i didnt even warm the truck up sunday before i made it six blocks only to push it backwards all the way back home... in my slippers...

 

tonight i am gonna pull the coil and double check the wires .....verify with a second set of eyes that there's really no spark...i was alone looking through the crack under the hood and the lights were out i n the shop ... i didnt see anything but then again...

[Guest 510kamikazifreak]

Did you bypass the ballast?

[jrock4224]

yeah i totally series'd two coils dat.....isnt that the way its supposed to be....i just t- taped one coil wire to the other ...u think my t tap is bad? :rofl: psyche...yeah two seperate coils two seperate failures....

[jrock4224]

Did you bypass the ballast?

 

 

yeah but i also was pulling power for something else on there and i cant remember what it is...i wanna trace it and if i don't need it then i will pull power from somewhere else....

 

i was thinking about hooking the coil up to the horn lead that way i could control my variable timing... i would jtec....

 

 

i did tthe swap years ago.... its worked perfect i am trying to think what i have doen since then ......nothing besides the 5 sp swap....

[Guest 510kamikazifreak]

yeah but i also was pulling power for something else on there and i cant remember what it is...i wanna trace it and if i don't need it then i will pull power from somewhere else....

 

I know on 510's the black with white stripe wire to the ballast, is the one that you run to the + side of the coil,not sure if the same on a 521?

[jrock4224]

to be honest it was so long ago i cant remember .....either ... pretty sure i followed what the how to was ....and i got a ton of help from the person i bought it from....

[banzai510(hainz)]

If you bypass the ballast use a EI coil. If a point coil like for a stock 521 was used they will burn up. GET HOT!!!!!

If you get a 200sx 1979 coil you should be good or a MSD Blaster 2 should be fine.

Otherwise coils dont really go bad. The match box might be going bad and not tewlling the coil to fire.

 

I reach in with right hand turn key and left hand holding the wire about 1/4 to a 1/8 to the chassis shoul make a spark.

[jrock4224]

i swapped to the ei coil when i swapped the dist and bypassed the resistor... i acually think thats closer ...how can i test the match box...in the last few months the truck has run like it has week spark.....which wasn't how it roiginally ran on the matchbox dizzy.....

[banzai510(hainz)]

try regrounding it or run a wire and pick a better ground and see if that works.

 

I dont run Matchboxes myself but I swapped out a module and it fixed a guys 510 last year

[jrock4224]

ok .....i will look tonight and report back ....

[ggzilla]

If your module doesn't say Hitachi ... try swapping it. The aftermarket brands don't last long compartively.

 

The coil should be -- for a matchbox -- number 22433-H7280 or 22433-H7285 (UF4). The points one is UF2.

[jrock4224]

so i was pulling the coil off the hot side ... so i removed it started right up ... ran tried it several other times ran fine.,.. then boom wouldnt start again....does kinda act like a ground ....but i am using a solid ground...i dont get this random shit .... tried it this am n the way to the uncover the blazer... started right up....i have the right coil.....cant tell on the match box if it s hitachi or not.....need to pull dist to see.shoot i may have apic of it from when i bought it...hold on

[banzai510(hainz)]

B is +side

C to - side coil

 

box will have Hitachi marked and a E then number

 

when it stops see if 12volts still with key On at +coil

[jrock4224]

what are b and c representing....

[elmerfudpucker]

Look in the plug part for the spark wire of the coil, I vaporized the metal on the exhaust side coil on mine during my trip to KY.

[jrock4224]

i burned up a coil wire once too....its funny cause once i removed the choke wire i could here the thing making spark with no wire on....i was like sweet pushed coil wire back on and boom running strong then ... so where are the electric choke ewpople pulling 12v from ... i f not the coil... on the negative side i have a blue with yellow that goes straight to a three prong bocx on inner fender ... i have the positive using the white stripe balck wre and he black with a red stripe wire then the choke...there's a second wire on the negative butt thats the negative to the upper pin on the t connector on the match box...so hainz i can assume of i am losin g my 12v signal at the coil then i can suspect my ignition switch...

[banzai510(hainz)]

from olddatsuns.com tech section Jason Gray

Electrical Connections

 

The electrical connections are really simple when you have the dizzy with black matchbox sized tranzistorized ignition module. There is a "T" shaped connection formed from two plug terminals labeled "B" and "C". For the "B" terminal connection (verticle leg of the "T" shaped connector), use crimper end connections to make a new jumper wire that goes from the "B" matchbox terminal to the + terminal of igniton coil. This jumper wire supplies the matchbox ignitor with ignition key switched + current. The "C" terminal, the horizontal top terminal of the "T" shaped matchbox connector gets wired directly to the - ignition coil terminal. This is the grond path for the ignition coil, ground connection intermitantly disrupted by the matchbox ignitor to fire the coil. Rather than using the stock electrical harness breaker points wiring for the matchbox "C" terminal to -coil terminal, I strongly suggest splicing in a new jumper wire directly berween -coil terminal and "C" terminal. I encountered coil failure that I traced to a short to ground in the stock harness when I was using the stock breaker points ground wire. Possibly the increased voltage of the EI system overloaded the stock harness wire?? Simply bypassing the stock breaker points wire(s) with a single new ground wire also simplifies conversion from a dual points dizzy if you are still running it. Use the "T" terminal+wires from the donor car to make a nice plug together terminal connection at the matchbox. Sometimes there is also another ground terminal that screws into the body of the dizzy but I have found this ground is non-essential, dont worry if it is missing.

 

In order to get the full benefit of hotter spark with the EI dizzy, you should remove the ballast resistor from the ignition coil circiut. The ballast was there so that only 6-8 volts of current went to the coil windings to reduce energy of the igniton system and lessen breaker points pitting. Removing the ballast resistor will supply the coil with constant 12-14 volts for hotter spark all the time, not just while the starter is cranking. You should use a coil that was designed for EI as it will give a stronger spark and because using the old breaker points coil with EI may cause the old coil to overheat. Get the coil from the EI dizzy donor car or get a EI specific aftermarket coil such as the MSD Blaster 2 coil. Do not use a coil with internal ballast resistor such as the Bosch blue coil. (Popular with air cooled VW crowd). To finish off your high output ignition, use plug wires with spiral wound metal core (spiral windings supress radiio noise). Do not use stock type carbon core wires that use high wire resistance for radio noise suppresion and are prone to burning out. I have run my EI dizzy without ballast on both types of factory tachometers (parallel and serial) and the tach works fine and has suffered no damage from the increased voltage. Factory spec for EI spark plug gap is .041" so open up your plugs to take advantage of the stronger spark.

[banzai510(hainz)]

I would separate or disconnect the choke wire If your taking power off the BLk/WHT wire(if Im understanding you correctly. and see what that does.

 

Im 99% positive there should NOT be a 2nd wire from the - side coil unless you got a tach or soemthing. If you do have a wire on - side try removing that also.

C has only 1 wire and it goes to -side coil

 

 

72 521 have a ppower for a choke trhat routied from the firewall to the carb.

71 I believe was a manual carb.

 

 

my 72 I either wire the electric choke back on the carb or buy a weber 5A manual. As I have bad luck adjusting them once I fucked with them.

[ggzilla]

B is Battery power. This is normally taken from the Coil PLUS terminal

C is Coil -- to coil NEG terminal

 

[I'm BLUE]

Def most likey going to be a wiring issue. Break put the ol multi-meter and solder/seal where needed.

 

I think most of us have had this happen on at least one datsun :console:

 

Yes indeed the ballast resistor should be bypassed if the case.

 

Shorts occur in engine harnesses as well. While running (when you get it running that is) wiggle the harness quickly and carefully.

[jrock4224]

the last few times this ahppened it was a wiring issue which is why i ran new ....and doubled down on all y connections...ok so remember when i left last it wasn't refiring for some reason even though i removed the choke circuit fro the coil.....well it fired right up last night when i got home... although its in a place now where i cant access ittill tonight so on my way out i shut her down started her one more time and it fired but still its a head scratcher....

 

 

so the second lead on the neg side of the coil...its a blue with yellow wirre and goes to a box that has thee wires on it right next to the coil...the blue with yellow goes tot he center pin on this module looking thing...

 

on the positive side i have balck with red... i assume switched then i have the wire that goes out to the match box lower terminal.... onthe neg side i have that blue with yellow and then a lead to the negative of the match box and that's it...

 

like i said i unexpectedly am not able to woork or look a tthe truck where its at...since its running i may go get it and bring it to the shop to look at... i got to finish my air bags on my lifted blazer so i can return that and grab the 521

[jrock4224]

zilla in you pic why does it look like its telling me to ground the vacuum adv port...as i have it now c is hooked to the neagative of the coil.....