Jump to content

Trouble - late-1969 SSS Bluebird Coupe


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 144
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

  • 3 weeks later...

Okay, finally made some time last weekend to look into the lack of bottom end in the L16.

 

I talked with Jeff for a while about cam timing and so I removed the eccentric hub from the front of the cam so I could see what dowel it was set to and if the notch on the cam matched the notch on the timing gear. 

 

09132014_trouble_compression_test_5_.JPG

 

09132014_trouble_compression_test_6_.JPG

 

You can't see the notches in these photos but nothing seemed out of sorts anyhow.  Still doesn't mean that the whole chain is a tooth off, but I assume if they went through the trouble to build a whole motor, they would have gone through the trouble to line up the marks correctly.  I'll give them the benefit of the doubt for now.

 

So, then on the a compression check.  I warmed the motor, then pulled the plugs and too some readings:

 

Cyl 1

 

09132014_trouble_compression_test_1_.JPG

 

Cyl 2

 

09132014_trouble_compression_test_2_.JPG

 

Cyl 3

 

09132014_trouble_compression_test_3_.JPG

 

Cyl 4

 

09132014_trouble_compression_test_4_.JPG

 

130-140psi across the board.  :no:

 

Something sure doesn't seem right...

Link to comment

I talked with Jeff some more and thought I had found a smoking gun.  I was checking valve clearances over the phone and couldn't get a .0015 shim in two of the first valves I checked!  Aha!  Maybe the valves are not fully closing!!

 

But alas, I checked them all properly later with two hands and without a phone on my shoulder and found all valves are between ~ .0060 and .0100 except one which is .0015"  So even though one is certainly tight, It is not open, and even if it was, that's only one of four.  And I have low compression on all cylinders.

 

Makes me wonder if the builder accidentally or otherwise just built a low compression motor, or if it has low compression because the rings have not yet been seated (this is still a new motor with probably 4 miles on it) or if they filled the crank case with synthetic or the rings are bad or...  You get the idea.  The PO spent a lot of money on this car, and the motor, so its hard to imagine something is really screwed up but it is starting to look more that way.

 

The pistons must have been Z-car pistons because I have the box they came in and there are two left.  I should pull that down and see what pistons he put in it.

 

--carter

Link to comment

i think the compression is fine.

i think mine was close to 140 when I cked my stock L16 25yrs ago

if you se it to #2 on sprocket and the timming mark(sprocket) line lines up on the cam tower( the little dash and its right on then its OK.

Maybe your distributor tooth is off. But you would see this with a timming light

 

maybe no low end is just your not used to L16 motors

 

 

maybe he lines all the piston ring gaps up in a line ???????????

Link to comment
  • 1 month later...

Lovely looking Bluebird, really like the colour although it's a shame the shop messed up the colour matching :sneaky:

 

On a separate note, If you still have those Techno Phantoms, would you be willing to sell them so my 240Z can get a new / old pair of shoes?  :blush:

Link to comment
  • 6 months later...

Long time no update.  Trouble's been sleeping in a cocoon since last summer.  Canby is 1 month away.  I should give it another shot huh?

 

Took the cover off yesterday and Brenda moved a bunch of stuff in the garage so I could start working on it again.

 

05092015_trouble.JPG

Link to comment

Since most of the big obvious stuff has been checked.  I thought I'd get the engine started and "run it in" for 30 minutes and see if I could bring up the compression in case the rings were never properly seated.

 

After about 5 minutes, the revs started running away again like on my first drive.  This was accompanied by a bunch of white/blue smoke!  I quickly shut it down and thought of what I have not yet checked.  Runaway revs seems like a lean condition so I figured I'd start by looking at the float bowls.

 

Front carb:

05102015_SU_trouble_1_.JPG

 

Rear carb:

05102015_SU_trouble_2_.JPG

 

Yeah, that's going to be a problem....

 

Neither float was sunk so one of the needle valves must be plugged or adjusted wrong or???

 

Inside front float bowl:

05102015_SU_trouble_3_.JPG

 

Inside rear float bowl:

05102015_SU_trouble_4_.JPG

 

Bad lighting on that one but down at the bottom, there is some sludge.  No sludge on the front bowl.

 

Looking at the valve levers, they appear to be set about the same.

 

Front:

05102015_SU_trouble_5_.JPG

 

Rear:

05102015_SU_trouble_6_.JPG

 

The carbs were supposedly rebuilt in Japan before the car was exported, but who knows how long they have sat around and with how old of fuel.  At a minimum, I will need to remove them, tear them down, clean them, and re-set everything. 

 

Nice to have found an actual problem which may explain the poor power and driveability.  Now I just hope I didn't damage everything when it went lean and started smoking!

Link to comment

SU carbs are easy to work on and they can be "rebuilt" again in a short afternoon but with Canby approaching, possible engine damage, and very little time...  I think it's a good time to pull my brand new Z-Therapy carbs off the shelf and put them into service:

 

05102015_ztherapy_time_1_.JPG

 

05102015_ztherapy_time_2_.JPG

 

05102015_ztherapy_time_3_.JPG

 

05102015_ztherapy_time_4_.JPG

 

05102015_ztherapy_time_5_.JPG

 

If this solves the problem.  I'll leave them on and go through the other carbs and put them on Bruiser, Greengo, or maybe Race Car.  Fingers crossed!

Link to comment

idle was smooth and then started to get rough before I started running it in.

My guess is that the bowls were full to start then as the floats dropped, the rear bowl did not re-fill so #3&4 were slowly leaning out until it was almost all air back there so the revs climbed up and away... 

Nothing but guesses at the moment.

If I fix the carbs, and still have a problem.  Then I know I get to fix something else.  Yay!  : )

Link to comment
  • 3 weeks later...

Well, I finally made it back out to the garage to swap the carbs.  Here are the "old" ones.

 

05252015_trouble_trouble_1_.JPG

 

and removed...

 

05252015_trouble_trouble_4_.JPG

 

and replaced

 

05252015_trouble_trouble_5_.JPG

 

05252015_trouble_trouble_7_.JPG

 

05252015_trouble_trouble_6_.JPG

 

I primed the carbs and Trouble started right up.  The smoke was immediately prevalent but it cleared up in about 30 seconds and never came back.  I let it rev for 15 to 20 minutes and then took it for another test drive.  Car will rev in 1st, do okay in 2nd, but in 3rd, there is just no power left.  It hits terminal velocity right away.  Throttle does nothing to change RPM, it just lugs away...  There's got to be something simple still missing/wrong. 

Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.