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154 on all cylinders.... Burning oil like no tomorrow


MantisX620

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Personally I would just pull the crank case vent tube hose to atmosphere(open) and see if the MOFO sticks at idle)

or shine a flashlight at night and youll see the smoke if its that bad.

 

My thailand rebuilt L18 had this. At night I could see smoke rise from the hood if car shined their light just right across the hood.

Tore apart the motor the ring all had the same ridge line on all the bores in the same spot like the gap was wrong and wore a UP/Down spot. all cylinders.

 

I had sidedraft Mikunis on there so thats why i notice the stink and smoke. If stock set up Im sure I wouldnt have notice as much except oil consumption

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The FSM states that 154 is out of spec.

 

What he's saying is that unless the guage is calibrated, a 154 reading on that gauge may not ACTUALLY BE 154 psi. If all four cylinders are at 154, it's way more likely that the gauge is reading wrong and the engine is good. What are the chances that all four cylinders are bad and failed in the same way to give the exact same compression reading?

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This is a picture of me doing a compression test on an L-16 engine.

CompTest.jpg

 

If you have a engine only, it will be more difficult to do it, because the starter bolts to the transmission.

 

As far as the actual numbers go, at or slightly below, or slightly higher than the actual numbers given in the service manual for a low minimum, means the engine is still worn, and it can be improved.

An engine with compression numbers close to the high number will run better than one close to the low numbers. It will also get better gas mileage, and have more power. It will also burn less oil.

 

In My L-16 service manual, if has the compression numbers and a cranking speed of 350 RPM. I do not have a tachometer that reads that low. So, if your compression gauge is slightly off, it does not matter.

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What he's saying is that unless the guage is calibrated, a 154 reading on that gauge may not ACTUALLY BE 154 psi. If all four cylinders are at 154, it's way more likely that the gauge is reading wrong and the engine is good. What are the chances that all four cylinders are bad and failed in the same way to give the exact same compression reading?

 

O.K.-but my comments were/are based on accurate info being related.

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Whats the point of going back and forth over this. I still havent seen a post from him showing the results of all the testing from the advice given already lol.

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i didnt say the pcv being disconnected meant the motor was bad, but wouldnt oil escape through the hose if its not connected? i know that my pcv valve had broken open once and the hose was spitting oil right into my manifold. i dont know... im more than willing to accept im wrong.

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If you're loosing a pint of oil in 30 minutes of run time, that's a SERIOUS amount of oil...if you were burning all of it then you'd be doing a public service by killing ALL the mosquitos in the neighborhood as you drove through. That'd be a FUCKLOAD of oil smoke.

 

If the hose is off the oil must be spraying out and you'd see it dripping off everything

 

If there are no leaks then you definitely would see the smoke.

 

If not burning it or spraying/leaking then where else can it be going??

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  • 2 weeks later...

So I installed my new engine and now it runs like Jamaica! Ill be taking my old engine and trying my hand at my first rebuild.

 

My new engine is now leaking pretty bad from the valve cover. I bought a new gasket from rockauto but I cant seem to get it to seal very well. Is it recommended to use permatex on the valve cover gasket or do I need to start over with another new gasket/retorque?

 

Thanks

MantisX

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You shouldn't need any sealer. Nissan didn't use it. That shit will squeeze out on the inside and end up stuck to the screen on the oil pick up pipe. Also good luck getting it off next time you adjust the valves. Most of all you don't want your Datsun engine looking like a Chevy 305.

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