SR20DE wiring help

[JDMonster]

I got a SR20DE swap out of a green coupe (RHD). The wires were some what labeled on the harness.

 

Well here I am and still lost.

 

Wires I have.......

 

Fat red wire w/ 30amp fuse its labeled (+). It is spliced to 4 wires. 3 go to the engine bay and one black/red goes to Pinot 46 (ECU Backup power)

 

Wire w/ 10amp fuse. It's labeled "start". These go to a relay and the run to pin outs 37,25.

 

Black/yellow runs to Pin out 112 and is labeled (FP) assuming fuel preassure

 

Blue/orange runs to pin out 45 and is labeled (NS) assuming nuteral safety

 

In addition the following printouts are spliced together 39,28,19,23,24,26,22,18

And 31,40

 

The motor turns over, is getting spark, but won't fire up. The fuel pump has been wired up separate from the ECU and is running. Pulled the plugs and they don't appear to have fuel in them. And if I spray starting fluid into the throttle body it attempts to start. This leads me to believe that the injectors aren't opening.

 

Here is a pick of the ECU model #

 

[zachdog]

I don't know that I can help since my SR20de swap isn't running yet but I did get Wiring Specialties to modify my harness. I have a different ECU than you have (I'll have to pull it out tonight to compare). I have an SR20de S13. Do you have an S13, 14 or 15?

 

Was the engine running in the car you removed it from?

 

Shannon

[Boaty]

Sounds like no injector pulse.

 

You can kind of test an injector using a test lamp, but it'll be difficult on a bright day since the bulb won't fully illuminate/dim in such a short pulse length but you can still see it if it's dark or shady out.

 

I had a similar issue on my KA24DE, which ended up being a faulty ECU - I had no injector pulse on #1, so it was running on 3 cylinders.

 

I believe the way to test this, is to hook the lead off a test light to +12V, and probe the injector plug while somebody cranks. The ECU switches ground so you should get power at the injector plug, if you have the test lamp lead connected to ground. So to test pulse, you have to have the lead hooked to +12V. If the bulb pulses while cranking, then the injector is (in theory) pulsing. Test all four.

 

That is where I would start.

When I first read your post, I immediately thought that you may be losing spark WHILE cranking, since I originally pulled the start signal off of switched positive, which was switched via the ignition switch - and I didn't realize that my switched +12V was dead while cranking (START position) and only charged in the ON position. But since yours attempts to fire over while cranking with starting fluid, it eliminates that theory.

 

Hope you get it up and running!