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Installed Tweeters on Radio Bezel. Turned out nice! OICS


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Yep thats true Mike. Tweets are the most directional drivers, though horns can give them comp lol. Usually the rule of thumb is they should be ear level, thats why in cars they put them in the A pillar so when your sitting its perfect. Even home audio the tweeter is generally the top driver in towers for the same reason.

 

My klipsh cornwalls are up high so I run them upside down to keep the tweeters at a reasonable height.

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If you can mount the tweeters directly to the center of the OE vent "diffuser" this would still allow air flow. I would hate to plug functioning vents.

 

Could, but you need mids too. I guess i'd tuck them under the dash if I kept functional vents.

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Unless you have time alignment, seperating the mids from the highs will ruin your output even more. Kick panels are actually good because they somewhat help get your stereo pathlengths closer to equal (ie the distance from your ears to the left kick can be more similar to the distance from your ears to the right kick, compared to the distance from your ears to the leftmost dash vs the rightmost dash). Having your mids down low and your highs up at the dash means you now have 4 different pathlengths for the different frequencies and channels, which means you'll never get good sound stage seperation without time alignment. Since most people don't utilize time alignment, and most don't sit in the middle of their car, kick panels are about the best you can get toward a good sound stage without offsetting your right speakers toward the driver. That said, I have my mids low and my tweeters in the sail panels (sideview mirror panels), but I'm running time alignment and have them all adjusted :fu:

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Sounding good is subjective. It might sound good, but it probably doesn't sound accurate. I probably shouldn't have brought it up because "sounding good" is more than likely what most people care about and probably wouldn't ever have a problem with it unless they heard a really well tuned system. It's pretty cool to sit in a car with time alignment and play with the millisecond delays on the different drivers and hear the sounds shift from side to side.

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Ya its true, I used 2 ways in my kicks for that reason. Thought he only reason it would matter to me is because audio is a hobby and Id be listening for it all the time lol. I dont think the average listener would notice.

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I run 6x9's in the rear deck but might move to 6 3/4" in the future depending.

The 6.5's I have in the doors sound mmmkoy but legs really kill sound. I plan on running components, keeping the door panel speakers (woofers) and then seeing if I can somehow mount the tweeters in the center portion of the dash vents. I saw one done like this years ago at Canby, but I never paid too much attention to it. I believe they were 1" tweeters and he made custom mounting rings epoxied into the dash vents. Wires run up through the vent baffling itself, so you lose a minimal amount of air flow through the vents. Plus, tweeter cooling? (Lol.)

 

I believe his crossovers were mounted to the bottom of his glove box or something to that effect. It was quite some time ago (Canby 08 I believe?)

 

Sounded really good from outside the car, never rode in it so I can't comment.

 

In regards to rebounding audio off glass, I had a Kicker Solo-Baric in my 510 for years mounted in the rear seat location (I have a seat delete). Vent slot off the side, sub itself facing up directly at the back window sounded amazing. If I mounted it in any other position, you could hardly tell I had a sub. But mounted facing the window I had easily 3x more bass than when it was in the trunk, plus minimal rattling.

 

After I did the KA swap I ripped the subwoofer out since It's not really my thing, but I DO love bass so I am entertaining the thought of a 10" (maybe even an 8") mounted in the rear deck between the 6x9's. The rear panel already has a hole that MIGHT fit a sub depending on mounting depth, etc. With it facing direclty at the window I cannot imagine it not sounding good, or at least acceptable. But I'd have to find a free-air capable sub. Thinking marine, perhaps? I'm not sure.

 

Believe it or not, if you take the time to seal up that rear panel to kill rattles and give it a decent seal into the trunk, 6x9's actually have a fair amount of bass - I was quite impressed. As soon as you open the trunk lid, your bass disappears. But they do sound good, and I'm only running deck power (crap!). If I skip the subwoofer, I may invest in a higher end set of 6x9 drivers and run a 4-channel amp. Bass is nice, but it's not a requirement. And I kind of enjoy having room again in the rear seat area (still have the seat delete). The box I had before was kind of cumbersome, and it weighs 70lbs or so.

 

As I said if I could fit a decent free-air capable 8" subwoofer between the 6x9's, I would. I am curious if a Solo-Baric would sound okay in that configuration if I didn't push a lot of power to it. Making an enclosure would be kind of a pain in the ass with the limited depth available. That back panel is far from being flat, so it would be a PITA to get something mounted in there really nice. Have any of you ever tried just mounting a sub in that location?

 

Doing so would eliminate the need to run so much bass to the 6x9's, and since a 510 is far from being quiet driving down the road, they'd be at a higher volume for most of their life... which I think would shorten their life span considerably, especially considering the sun beating down on them through the window. I disintegrated my Infinity 6x9's years ago because of heat/sun.

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So, all we need to do is mount the drivers seat in the middle of the car, mount the tweeters where the headlights are, remove the engine, mount the windshield and firewall up with the headlights (and of course extend the roof to meet the windshield). And really, the acoustic reflections on glass just don't cut it, we will be lining all glass with sound deadening baffles. You can do all of that, but guess what... Def Leopard will still suck!

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Shine those Nikes an just do it!

Buy some foam insulation, hot glue, oil clay, murphys oil soap, plaster, burlap, resin, fiberglass mat, gloves, snickers, did I miss anything? Oh paint. Make it epic. And make sure there is room above the heater core. You will lose the ash tray. This is a dime right?

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Shine those Nikes an just do it!

Buy some foam insulation, hot glue, oil clay, murphys oil soap, plaster, burlap, resin, fiberglass mat, gloves, snickers, did I miss anything? Oh paint. Make it epic. And make sure there is room above the heater core. You will lose the ash tray. This is a dime right?

 

Yeah, 72 510 goon... I'll look into it in the coming weeks and maybe post a guide up!

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Nice! I am building a center console between the seats. I thought about putting a little screen in it. Perhaps you could keep your dash stock and add a center console with a 2-DIN between the stick and the heater vent. Kinda angle it up and bump up the console high enough to house it. make sure the hot air can go over or around it. I could see that working well.

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Has it ever been done before? I can't find anyone who's done a fiberglass one.

 

You can make anything with fiberglass. Even if it hasnt "been done before"

 

Search "fiberglass enclosure" on youtube or google and look at the result for a few hrs. You'l get all kind of ideas.

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Nice! I am building a center console between the seats. I thought about putting a little screen in it. Perhaps you could keep your dash stock and add a center console with a 2-DIN between the stick and the heater vent. Kinda angle it up and bump up the console high enough to house it. make sure the hot air can go over or around it. I could see that working well.

 

Dude! I was totally thinking about doing this with the console I got... but I have never worked with fiberglass or anything before and I'm scared of fucking my only console up!

219084_3795660973609_1375375368_o.jpg

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