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ParaDime Project


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  • 2 months later...

Been a long time coming but my Bro Ken finally swapped out the 3071r for a gen2 disco potato Garrett 2867 T3 .63 AR. We did everything we could short of nitrus to wake that 3071 up a bit earlier, but it was like beating a dead horse. Or at least like trying to make a thoroughbred into a quarter horse.

 

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Portland Speed Industries just finished tuning and the result.... WTF didn't we do this earlier? From what Ken describes, it's a totally different car. Comes on to positive boost at 2600 rpm and has instant eager throttle response. On pump gas it was making 223 whp and 179ft lb at 6500rpm with 16psi on the 3071. Now it's making 300.42 whp and 241.42 ft lb at 6500 rpm on 20psi. Using the Link download flex fuel clacs adjusting air fuel ratio and a bit more timing advance it made 37 more hp on a 47% ethanol blend. Real e85 is hard to come by during winter. I can't wait to get up there on the 23rd and feel it for myself. 

 

 

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Damn that was close. My Brother picked the 510 up at PSI and drove it to Ashland yesterday. He called and told me it was making a fante groan he thought was an exhaust leak. Today he took it to a shop and found two nuts missing on one of the stub axle hub adaptors and the remaining were loose. The last time they were tightened was a bit over two months ago but the car sat at PSI for close to a month... Seriously WTF kind of asinine design is that here the nuts back themselves out every few miles!?! I've been told not to use locktight, instead drill through the bolt and use safety wire, but these are 10mm hardened steel nuts. So how the fuck are you supposed tighten them to spec and drill through 6 them on all for hubs, with a hand held drill? This is F'n stupid.

 

With that much play in it, is it too damaged to be safe?

 

 

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I know how to drill the head of a bolt for a safety wire. Unfortunately the head of the bolt is held inside the hub adapter and it's the nut that's backing off. If the idea is to drill the nut and bolt before it's installed, how do you know what position to drill for proper tightness? Are you saying remove the axle and hub, torque the nuts, and then drill in a press? Not doing that.

 

Once the nuts are on and tight, there's not even enough thread showing to drill and wire. Maybe Locktight a thin washer to the hub surface, torque the nut, then bend up a corner to lock the nut in place. 

Edited by paradime
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On 9/17/2018 at 9:43 PM, paradime said:

 

Thanks Charlie. Uber is my daily, I'm losing my vision so I can't drive any more. Torture when there's a car like this in the garage all the time. 

Man I'm sorry to hear that. That is a very fine 510 Sedan,I wish it where in my garage.

Edited by edekalil
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1 hour ago, edekalil said:

Man I'm sorry to hear that. That is a very fine 510 Sedan,I wish it where in my garage.

 

No worries man, it's all part of the ride. Getting to build that car was a total privilege and had it not been for my brother's generosity, it wouldn't be in my garage. Seriously the dream of a lifetime.

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I had the dumb VW CV conversion in my 510.  To annoying so I swapped the stock axles back in.  I hated all the back lash from the under sized balls for more articulation and they came loose to much on me as well.  

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  • 6 months later...

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When a ding in the rear fender lip forced the matter, we took the opportunity to take care of some unfinished business. We're doing the headliner in black & yellow houndstooth, blacking out the inner fender around the headlight bezels, fixed a bunch of little ware issues, and had the whole car resprayed with the same 2 part epoxy paint. Mixed it thinner this time so it laid on like glass. Now it's got that sexy rich color dipped look, the damn thing's gun'a be too finished and shiny to drive it like we stole it.

 

Well I guess we fucked that one up a tree. Maybe it's time to start a rockabilly beater 521. 

 

 

 

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