ruby (510 wagon L20B 5-speed driver build)

[tr8er]

No video of the smooth cranking.  But I will take a video when I hook up the fuel line and actually fire her up this weekend.  Should be fun.  If not, it will really suck.  Not much middle ground on this one...

 

Had the water pump leaking this week through the weep hole, so I need to pop on a new water pump, but that's not going to be a task.  And I need to find a new exhaust support, again no big thing.  

[tr8er]

2 years and 4 days ago I ran my engine one last time before pulling her out to tackle rust, convert to manual, and generally overhaul the car. Today I got her running, and she purrs. Far from tuned, but miles ahead of expectations after sitting for two years in a rainforest.

 

Success is sweet.

[Swedishcadillac]

Congrats. My goal is 1.5 years! That's from my ownership of it. Apparently it hadn't ran for 18 years before I bought it.

[Just Joel]

Congrats... Took me just about the same amount of time to get mine back

[tr8er]

So I coated my fuel tank to preserve it.  There were a couple of tiny pinholes on welds at the top of the tank that only revealed themself when I added hot water and solvent.  When I closed the tank, the pressure built and the pinhole bubbled slowly.  It looks like it was there from the factory floor.  Interesting.  Still there was rust starting on the inside and out.  Nothing terrible.  So this is the best time to clean it up and coat it.  

 

WARNING:  This POR15 tank liner is bad shit.  I felt like crap for a day after using it.  Open air, outside, with a fan, masked part of the time.  Not sure what I recommend, but take precaution, and expect some nasty fumes.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

End result:  inside is coated and leak free.  Feels great to know I took care of this when I really didn't need to.  Yet I knew I would regret it if I waited until I needed to do it.  

 

Car runs well.  I need a new battery, water pump, and possibly a starter motor.  Maybe you guys know if I need a new motor or just a relay.  It clicks without turning over almost half the time.  Sounds like a relay to me, but it might be the motor brushes on a flat spot.  I shall find out soon enough.  

[banzai510(hainz)]

theres no relay just the ignition switch. My yellow car has this proplem but havent fixed it myself. I swapped a new rebuilt Nissan manf starter and still does it. so its a low voltage issue.

 

you can try a another starter or a cheap possible fix or for troubel shooting is get a light relay the black ones.

 

this realy will work on less than 12volts. once triggered youll use the HIGH amp contacks and current straight from the batter to kick the selinod right IN

 

hook up 85 to the Datsun starter wire.

86 you ground.

 

87 hook to the starter lug where the plus batt cable hook up to(use a big round lug)

30 you hook up to where the old starter wire went to.

87 and 30 can be switched around as its the higher current contacts.

 

I can send drawing if needed

[tr8er]

I get that, but isn't the starter relay in that tube attached to the starter motor?  the starter wire is the trigger to connect the battery to the starter motor?  That's what I though was going on there.

 

Either way, this is not a big one.  I'm quite certain I'll work it out in short order.   I've decided to turn my garage into a paint booth shortly.  It'll be gone soon, so I may as well mess it up first.  

[datzenmike]

If it works part time with the key the start signal may be 7 or 8 volts or lower and the solenoid can't work with this. Get a remote starter or use a jumper wire from the battery and touch to the solenoid. (be sure out of gear) If it cranks every time with this, then weak start signal is likely. My '74 was this way. I have a dozen starters laying around so I put one in... didn't help. The start signal was about 6 volts (old, long thin, wires) I used this 6 volts to energize a relay to connect 12 volts from the battery to the solenoid. Has worked every time since.

[tr8er]

I have a feeling this is the problem. I'll test today.

[tr8er]

Water pump with cast impeller came in. Rebuilt, but out of good stock it seems.

 

 

 

Now I can finally run it to temperature for tuning.

 

Breaks next. Ended up blasting a caliper piston seal trying to seat it. Got new seals in the mail and I'm going to try again soon to get this car drivable.

[tr8er]

 

Akebono!!!

Rebuilt, and prettied up.

 

Also installed and bled the whole braking system. My brake pedal squeaks to hell. I hate it. I'll need to figure out where it's squeezing and kill said squeak. Afraid it's in the MC though. Hope not...

 

Goal was to drive it today. Almost there. Could have taken her for a quick run, but I'll wait until I get all the gas tank stuff back in. I did jack up the rear while bleeding and ran her slow In 1st through 5th. Success. Tranny could still be a pile, but it passed the first opportunity to fail.

 

Anyone have a lead on the shifter cups and stuff for my shifter. It's jiggly, and I'd like it only factory juggle.

 

Getting there. Lava still coming my way, just slowly. I'll definitely be driving her out alive. Possibly painted.

[carterb]

here are the parts for the 620 5spd.

Probably the same for the 200sx and 280zx.

 

It's really an easy fix.  I looked under the shift boot expecting to find worn bushing.  Instead I found NO BUSHINGS!!!

 

 

There are supposed to be bushings on each side of the shifter as seen in the photo below:

 

 

All it takes is a pair of these:

 

 

Or if your pin is toast, or if you are missing the plastic bushing on the end of the shifter as well, you may need all of this:

 

 

Which includes the following:

 

32854-24900

32849-H1010

32855-H1010

32861-N4200

[tr8er]

Carter. Have I ever told you your my hero?

[hobospyder]

You're

 

 

Glad you'll be able to drive her safely

[carterb]

Carter. Have I ever told you your my hero?

 

 Yes, once, when you saw me in spandex! 

 

:w00t:

[banzai510(hainz)]

most people use the Chrysler door hinge repair kit(HELP brand) to get those side bushings for the stick as they are brass or bronze.

I think I did to drill nine out just a hair to get to work as the plstic ones didnt last long.

 

soembody sells a whole brass kit, ebay?

 

Yeah make a relay from the starter lug then right to where the old starter wire went to the selenoid.

Datsunpartsllc makes a relay kit for this also

 

 

brakes making noise I had put that brake spray on back of the pads(the red spray on stuff)

[tr8er]

You're

 

 

Glad you'll be able to drive her safely

I have no idea what your talking aboot

[hobospyder]

I hate you

[tr8er]

Fairy dust.

[hobospyder]

You love me

[tr8er]

Ok. I took her for a drive and had a blast. She runs great in all gears. I'm not excited about idle still. Same as it was previous to pulling her, but it seems like high time to address it. My timing light died before I pulled the engine and I forgot to buy a new one as I was building, so I need to do that now. In the mean time, I'm just getting it running well by ear. And I've found that she idles best when turned all the way advance. Bottom adjuster, and top adjuster. So I figure I've got the distributor shaft in wrong. Which is annoying because I was pretty careful to get it in the exact correct angle. I believe rotating the dizzy back toward retard and moving the plug wires one position over does not buy me 90 degrees, so I don't think that is an option. So I'm asking mainly what you guys think. Rotate the distributor/oil pump shaft? Or do you think the timing chain is stretched. Opinions? Recommendations?

 

By the way, driving around with no hood or fenders is good fun.

[mrbigtanker]

So looking good.