Yet another 85 4x4

[bmacster]

I'll cross post this from Nico...

 

 

Hey Everyone! I just picked up an 85 Nissan 720 4x4 that I got from my girlfriend's family that didn't have any real purpose for it anymore. It's in, well, it has had a somewhat rough time. I wanted a basic, light truck with 4x4 capability for camping and checking out old mining towns that are all around Washington and Idaho.

 

Some questions though that I wanted to ask first:

 

The heck was Nissan/Datsun thinking with the water channels!? :rotfl I had a big surprise when a bunch of water came out of the blower housing. The passenger side is rusted up pretty good and will most likely weld in some new metal there once I start doing rust mitigation.

 

How common is it for the diffs and transfer case to leak? Everything on the poor gal is leaking something, from some where. When I go to change the seals, is there anything else I should look at or change while I am in there? It also looks like the transmission and the oil plan is leaking slightly.... I figure I would go through and replace the u-joints.. I noticed a vibration around 45-55mph from the rear of the vehicle.

 

The junkyard has an 86 720 that has a tach and clock that I am going to pull this weekend. I assume it is just a "plug and play" thing or is there any wiring that needs to be done?

 

I am planning on getting a lot of PB Blaster, Rust-Oleum, etc. Do you guys have any recommendation on using a rubberized undercoating or just stick with the Rust-Oleum?

 

The day I looked it over

 

The rear diff leaking

 

Transfer Case leaking

 

Front diff leaking

 

The transmission leaking... or could be the slave cylinder

 

Oil pan leaking

 

 

Does anyone know what these shims are for? They are on both sides in front and there are some on the rear as well.

 

Another angle of the front diff leaking

 

Passenger side of the engine bay

 

Drivers side of the engine bay

 

I'll need to get a new tailgate and taillights...

 

 

I am also going to grab some 96 Rodeo or Passport seats. The one's in the truck now are completely shot. Found some decent ones in town for $50 for both. :chuckle:

 

And a new passenger door as well...

 

The parts donor (the needle is just out of view...)

 

And lastly, the interior

 

Ah, let the fun begin!

[elfirebeasto]

I like it. For some reason the color fascinates me. Mine is rust and blue mist where paint is still existent. I have a similar leak to the one you posted on your transmission. I thought from its location on my truck that it was the rear main needing replaced. I think that's what I was looking at in your picture but I can't be certain. Good luck with your new obsession...err truck!

[datzenmike]

If there are sins of eaking I would check the oil levels n everything.

 

Then power wash the motor and oil pan. Oil could be leaking down from the valve cover and look like the front diff. Looks like the pinion seal is bad on the rear diff. On the trasfer case, Rmove the sid pan... there are three possible leaks... the output to the rear, the output to the front and the topmost input. Again power wash them and watch to see where it's coming from. A little brake cleaner to rinse any oil off helps and leaves it clean and dry.

 

Water out the heaer fan is often water trapped in the cowl area below the wiper arms. There are two drains, one on each side that are easily plugged with pine needles and maple keys and debris. Just wash them out so they are working.

 

The clock/tach option is lug 'n play.

 

Excuse the spelling: this is the company keyboard and it misses letters and no spell check.

[bmacster]

If there are sins of eaking I would check the oil levels n everything.

 

Then power wash the motor and oil pan. Oil could be leaking down from the valve cover and look like the front diff. Looks like the pinion seal is bad on the rear diff. On the trasfer case, Rmove the sid pan... there are three possible leaks... the output to the rear, the output to the front and the topmost input. Again power wash them and watch to see where it's coming from. A little brake cleaner to rinse any oil off helps and leaves it clean and dry.

 

Water out the heaer fan is often water trapped in the cowl area below the wiper arms. There are two drains, one on each side that are easily plugged with pine needles and maple keys and debris. Just wash them out so they are working.

 

The clock/tach option is lug 'n play.

 

Thanks, I will do this on Saturday! I just ordered the seals (rear main, front diff, and rear diff) I wanted to be sure, just in case. I am going to have to work on the u-joints in the rear though... they are dry as a bone and want to address them before I make the 60 mile drive to my home.

 

I like it. For some reason the color fascinates me. Mine is rust and blue mist where paint is still existent. I have a similar leak to the one you posted on your transmission. I thought from its location on my truck that it was the rear main needing replaced. I think that's what I was looking at in your picture but I can't be certain. Good luck with your new obsession...err truck!

 

You know, I was thinking that I was going to repaint it (Mustang Grabber Blue) but the more I see it in it's current paint, the more it grows on me. Saves me some coin too. I am going to change the interior to black/gray though. The brown/mocha interior just isn't cutting it for me. It is definitely an obsession!! I can't believe how much reading I have been doing on this truck. I am looking to really diving into the thing soon.

[bmacster]

I wanted to double check something with you guys...

 

Looking at u-joints, O'Reilly's has one from Precision that are greasable. It looks like this fits ALL of the u-joints? Is this correct? If so, I can go and grab them for everything while I have the lift available.

 

I was told I should probably replace the Pitman arm and Idler Arm during the rebuild process. Yay or Nee? I have seen a few threads on it during my research but I haven't seen if it is mostly due to power steering issues or manual steering. Moog has both available and are greasable as well.

[datzenmike]

Pitman arms are solid and do not wear out. The idler arm has bushings that can wear. As long as it turns only and does not move up or down it should be fine. Grease it.

[bmacster]

Well, I am confused on the u-joints. Looking at one site, Napa has Precision PUJ 393 and PUJ 391. At O'Reilly, they show just the one U-Joint (Precision PUJ 393) Is there just the one u-joint for all of the u-joints on the truck?

[bmacster]

Small update,

 

I got the rear driveline out this morning to see if the u-joints were bad on either end or if it is another issue. The first thing I noticed was the lack of grease. There really should be 2 grease fittings on the yoke. Maybe a mod later down the road.

 

The first thing I noticed once I got home was all of the "shims" and weights on the shaft.

 

Another weight and broken seal on the shaft.

 

After getting most of the grease off it. I'll clean it up a bit better after I get it inspected.

 

Is this indent in the yoke supposed to be there? Also, does anyone know where I can find the new seal for the yoke? Not having any luck locating it.

[bmacster]

Small update:

 

Had Drivelines NW take a look at the shaft and the spline is a touch loose with some up and down movement. With that said, since the truck won't be a DD and wouldn't be driven too far/long, they advised to keep it well greased and can drive it as-is but warned that it could, of course, cause vibration and other drivetrain issues down the road.

 

So, the truck will be reassembled next week and sometime next year, I will have them go and rebuild the drive shafts. At least it'll be coming home so I can work on it regularly! For now, off to Harbor Freight Tools to pick up an angle grinder and some wire cups, along with some rustoleum for the shaft.

[Sealik]

Well, I am confused on the u-joints. Looking at one site, Napa has Precision PUJ 393 and PUJ 391. At O'Reilly, they show just the one U-Joint (Precision PUJ 393) Is there just the one u-joint for all of the u-joints on the truck?

 

2 different sizes...the 83+ had the larger u-joints

Early 720's had the smaller/more common u-joints

 

Difference in propeller shafts...larger 84 on top

[datzenmike]

 

Is this indent in the yoke supposed to be there? Also, does anyone know where I can find the new seal for the yoke? Not having any luck locating it.

 

The spline may be that way so the two pieces can only fit together one way, and does not throw the balance out.

[bananahamuck]

I saw a 4X4 720 at the Tumwater pick-a-part a while ago but not sure what year it was or if it had a driveline ...but you never know..

 

Link ..

http://www.pickapartolympia.com/

[bmacster]

Awesome, thank you! I will check them out. No work done on the truck this weekend than finishing cleaning up that rear drive line. Hope to bring it home next week if finances allow it.

 

I am going to the JY to grab some stuff off a 85 720 though. Next weekend, I am grabbing seats out of a 98 Rodeo =D

[bmacster]

I was finally able to get the truck home! It was an interesting 55 miles though. I serviced the rear drive line but the vibration at freeway speed was definitely there. I did stop at ABC Transmission to see what they thought and agreed that the drive lines probably all need to be re-balanced. Before I do that though, an 86 720 KC popped up at the junk yard and I am going to grab the rear drive line and the center drive line from that (if it is compatible?)

 

Today me and the girlie tore into the truck. Got the dash out, canopy off, mice nests gone, and a solution for hopefully getting rid of some of the mold, and a crap load of misc wiring that went all over the truck. I will definitely have to find a replacement instrument panel as mine will not power any of the bulbs and the 86 in the JY has one with a tach and verified all of the lights and such work.

 

Onto the pics!

 

The future donor car

 

The rear drive line on the 86 KC

 

The donor

 

After ripping out the dash...

 

The old radio shack wiring harass...

 

Mouse Nest... Damned things also chewed into the air vent.

 

The gauge with most of the bulbs missing

 

The bar that was on top of the truck.. anyone want it?

 

My girlfriend Ruth working on the canopy bolts

 

Heavily rusted battery tray. Not exactly sure how I am going to address this problem yet... The battery tie down snapped when i moved it.

 

The canopy, also up for grabs if anyone local wants it.

 

Something else the previous owner did...

 

I did grab the oil and voltage gauge out of a different 720... The oil pressure unit doesn't seem to work though.

 

And lastly, as it stands now.

 

By the way, please let me know if there is a such thing as too many pictures! I like to document as much as possible.

[poor-mans-720]

I have no clue what the canopy or bar looks like!! But dibs if ya still got them. Been looking for a canopy a long time with no prevail.... Im looking at this on my phone so I dont see all the pics. Only the ones it wants me to see. Lol

[Skulptr]

dude!! you should go get the tranny out of that kc for me, and somehow, i'll come get it! lol my 85 kc has been sitting for over a month now with no tranny

[bmacster]

Did some more work on the truck today. Got the vinyl flooring removed and working on getting whatever that rubberized crap that is a pain in the ass to remove in the passenger side. Flooring on the passenger side was rusted pretty bad, at least on the corner/edges...

 

 

Vinyl Flooring all removed and checking for more rust damage.

 

Driver side

 

Now to figure out how much metal I need to replace...

[datzenmike]

If your 720 did not have the oil pressure gauge you need to go back and get the sender. 720s with an oil gauge have a special two wire sender. One wire works the red OIL light in the dash, the other works the gauge. Be sure to use a wrench to remove it. 9/16 or 14mm???? Get the two wire plug and as much of the wire as you can so you can splice into your harness. Run a single wire from the sender to your new gauge.

 

Sender

 

 

Yellow/Green stripe wire is for the RED oil lamp. Yellow/Blue stripe wire is for the gauge.

[bmacster]

If your 720 did not have the oil pressure gauge you need to go back and get the sender. 720s with an oil gauge have a special two wire sender. One wire works the red OIL light in the dash, the other works the gauge. Be sure to use a wrench to remove it. 9/16 or 14mm???? Get the two wire plug and as much of the wire as you can so you can splice into your harness. Run a single wire from the sender to your new gauge.

 

Sender

 

 

Yellow/Green stripe wire is for the RED oil lamp. Yellow/Blue stripe wire is for the gauge.

 

Damn, it isn't integrated into the harness? Ah well, I will get that when I head to the junk yard this weekend.

 

My shopping list for the yard keeps growing!

[datzenmike]

The plugs for the 4x4 gauges may be on your harness but taped up out of the way. Check. If they aren't cut the ones from the 4x4 out with long leads so you can splice into your harness. I put an oil pressure gauge in the '74 710 on the console. Having the correct plug made it easier and if I need to remove the console it unplugs.

 

Post 184 and on... http://community.ratsun.net/topic/17682-my-island-74-710/page__st__180

[poor-mans-720]

Hey, I have one of those senders if ya need one.

[bmacster]

Hey, I have one of those senders if ya need one.

 

That'll be awesome! Thanks!

[bmacster]

First of all, OY! Got all of the rubber, melted, crappy, whatever Nissan decided to use, flooring off the bottom to inspect for rust. Sadly, there was much more than I thought there was and will need to cut out a lot of metal.

 

Whatever this stuff is, SUCKS getting out...

 

Passenger side. Rusted along the edge where water went and pooled up.

 

Passenger side with the missing door ajar switch

 

Driver side. All of that is rusted... Gonna have to do some creative metal work to fix this.

 

And then there was the front cowl... No wonder this thing flooded when it rained...

 

Looking under the vent

 

Mouse nest #4

 

And about an hour later, all clean...If you have access to compressed air or if you have a shop vac with an exhaust, you can use that as a blower. Worked GREAT, even though it made one hell of a mess...

 

Another source of water entry. Plug/Gasket for the Japanese model windshield wiper arm.

 

I am going to check out Metal Supermarkets in Lakewood to get some sheet metal, with any luck, next weekend I'll have the metal in and start applying the rustoleum and herculiner in the truck! Woohoo!

[bmacster]

I opted to go with flapper wheels for the interior floor and truck bed. It seems to be doing a good job but it's hard to get into the crevices and nooks though but it takes it down to bare metal, right now, but leaves a good base for paint. Trying to find something "simple" for that has been a fun challenge. I may just use basic sand paper for those areas.

 

My plan now is to re-tap all of the holes with standard metric bolts, sand the interior paint as good as I can, manually, and herculiner the entire thing and start putting the interior all back together.

 

As for the floor, I am going to be getting the seats tomorrow (finally) and drive the truck up to the railroad to get the work done for the new floor on both sides. I will be getting some peel and seal insulation, new firewall insulation, and carpet. I also need to get new boots for the transfer case and transmission.

 

Lastly, I will start on cleaning the frame and under the truck. I will be using Rust-Oleum undercoating to protect the bottom. There isn't any undercoating at all on this truck.

 

Lots of work to go.. .fingers crossed for it being rockin' and rolling end of next month.

[radracer]

Wow, does all that look familiar or what.

 

I discovered through the knowledge of another user that the rubber stuff you had to pull off the floor boards (I had to do the same - what a pain in the ass!) is the sound-dampening material they installed in the factory. In case you havent removed the center console around the shifter yet, you will find yet another patch of it under there as well.

 

But those floorboards. I never thought Id say this, but those look worse than mine do! it is going to be a bit of a pain repairing the metal around that seat bracket. Good luck man!