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I want a Z


cdub42

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Flushed the tank yesterday. It was bone dry. Ran a bit of gas through it. Primed the system and turned the key just to see what would happen out of curiosity. Bastard fired right up! It was running a bit rough tho. I think only one of the carbs was doing its job. The other one started pissing fuel out the air cleaner through a tube that went from the aft side of the #2 carb to the back of the air cleaner plate. Not sure what that's about. Think I need to find a local z guru to come take a peek and point me in the right direction. That would be a lot easier/faster than me trying to figure this thing out from scratch.

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Thats the over flow tube. Pop the lid off the float bowl and free up the needle valve/float. It's prob junked up and jammed. Thats causing you to run super rich on that side. Really you should take both sus off do a basic clean and check.

 

-Take the float covers off, make sure the float settings are ok, this is extrememly important on su's the floats have to be perfect or you will never get it tuned right.

-Make sure the pistons rise and fall cleanly, there should be a slight clunk when they hit on return, if you dont hear it they arent moving freely enough.

-Make sure the jets move and returns freely.

-Make sure the line from the bowl to jet is clear and clean.

 

This is just some basic stuff you can do to make sure the carbs are working well enough for street dependability. You can handle it yourself if your willing to learn.

 

I learned su's from owning them but "just su's" video from ztherapy was worth every penny, its like 4 hours of SU school. Their rebuild kit is excellent too it comes with nozzles where most do not.

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The round top su's are better then the DGV's in a number of ways. Performance, reliability, ease of use and tune-ability, fuel mileage, looks, etc... all are better with a set of properly functioning SU's. I would sell the set of DGVs and order ztherapys rebuild kit that comes with the just SU's video.

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That is true, the SUs will outperform webers and there is supporting data to prove that fact. Ive watched a lot of people retard their cars and waste money with "upgrades" without doing research. It would benefit you to do your homework before making moves. You may want to consult a larger knowlege database of a Z specific site with forums. Hybridz.org or Zcar.com would be my recomendation for getting the facts to learn by. Though Zcar.com is becoming diluted and becoming the jibberish of zdriver.com style. A few old members still fight the onslaught of ignorant newbies looking to be spoonfed answers that a simple search could provide, spreading myths and parroting bad info. So look to the senior members for credibility. Hybridz.org doesnt tolerate any such behavior and is the best info for non stock style Z cars. No offense to the members here of course, but having hundreds of Z guys brainstorming results in better education than a handful. Some valuable stuff you can bring back and share with your friends here.

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got the fuel system mostly purged. spent a few hours trying to figure out why the engine would turn over run, but as soon as i disengaged the starter it would die. called up my mechanic buddy to come over. he looks at the setup for all of 15 seconds and says i got a bad connection in my ignition system. go to my spare Z car and find it doesn't have an ignition anymore. a multi meter and jumper wire later its running. not running right, but running. the engine is very lethargic. and has an exhaust leak. as for the exhaust leak, i guess imma put the headers on there sooner than i anticipated. i suspect the timing is off, and perhaps I'm having fuel delivery problems. but ran out of gas before i could successfully chase down either issue. i had less than a gallon or so of good gas left after i ran several gallons through to get the bad stuff out. does this thing time @ 12 degrees at 600ish rpm like my L20B?

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New plugs, oil change, and a little tinkering, I got it purring like a kitten. Took the carbs apart and cleaned them up. I think I'm running Waaay too rich. It's sending out puffs of black smoke when I rev it up. The back right drum brake was locked up. Took it apart and learned the brakes adjust through the E brake. And the left ebrake cable was disconnected so the right drum pads where set to kill. Fixed that and purged the fluid out the lines for some fresh stuff to all 4 corners. The pedal still doesn't feel like it has enough authority. It starts to slow the car only in the last inch of travel. I think the front left caliper is shot. That tire wouldn't free spin when I had it Off the ground and when I had it apart I couldn't compress the piston...drats.... I did a few hot laps around the neiborhood and I'm not impressed by the performance, and the braking is almost non existent. I'm thinking the master cyl made my list of things to do. I think I'm gonna start putting the interior together for a while and let the fresh brake fluid soak in the system, maybe the caliper will decide to start working. Blue lake was a big dose of motivation, and driving my 240 for the first time was another big motivation. I wanna have this thing done already!! I wanna go play with it!

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When I bought my S30 project car it had sat for 7 years or so. When it came time to do the brakes I got new calipers from Napa, brake hoses, and the rear brake hardware along with new brake pads. I was given a new brake master cylinder by a friend. I had to get the rear wheel cylinders too but got them through an import parts specialist. I found the brake booster was bad, and had mine rebuilt. After all that the brakes work great. Which when it comes to a safety feature like brakes, I shoot for 100 percent. I wont drive it with questionable brakes. I also check my tires before I go anywhere, its just the way I do things. My two cents is redo the entire braking system, just for everyones safety.

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I see you were thinking of a header. Just a quick warning on that, the thin wall header increases under hood temperatures. You have to quite a bit of modifying to get to a point where a stock exhaust manifold becomes a restriction. I understand you have a leak there. Impropper installation/removal and even age can cause them to bananna. If its not too bad a machine shop can get you a flat surface again. With a mostly stock motor I would advise to try and reuse your stock exhaust manifold, and use the header money towards other things. Ultimately its your decision though. The headers that most people get here in the states are junky anyway. The good ones are around $900 and up. On a highly modified motor, those people that need them have enough money for them anyway, and you wont see them using a MSA unit or monza. It will be a nissan competition, trust, or other something imported. People tend to forget that stock parts are performance parts and were overbuilt on purpose, often able to handle much more than their stock usage. Ive seen a R200 differential hold steady under torque that lifts a Z front end feet off the ground on a launch. They were put in cars that were around 150-180 hp, yet handle double that. Its nice to see you forming an attachment to the car, and see you inspired. The more you learn now before you go changing things, the better results you will have. I think you are on the right path. Getting it roadworthy, and discussing your moves. Keep up the good work.

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I see you were thinking of a header. Just a quick warning on that, the thin wall header increases under hood temperatures. You have to quite a bit of modifying to get to a point where a stock exhaust manifold becomes a restriction. I understand you have a leak there. Impropper installation/removal and even age can cause them to bananna. If its not too bad a machine shop can get you a flat surface again. With a mostly stock motor I would advise to try and reuse your stock exhaust manifold, and use the header money towards other things. Ultimately its your decision though. The headers that most people get here in the states are junky anyway. The good ones are around $900 and up. On a highly modified motor, those people that need them have enough money for them anyway, and you wont see them using a MSA unit or monza. It will be a nissan competition, trust, or other something imported. People tend to forget that stock parts are performance parts and were overbuilt on purpose, often able to handle much more than their stock usage. Ive seen a R200 differential hold steady under torque that lifts a Z front end feet off the ground on a launch. They were put in cars that were around 150-180 hp, yet handle double that. Its nice to see you forming an attachment to the car, and see you inspired. The more you learn now before you go changing things, the better results you will have. I think you are on the right path. Getting it roadworthy, and discussing your moves. Keep up the good work.

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Well, the car came with a header that the previous owner was going to install. If for nothing else I'd throw it on there for shits and giggles. I'm not looking for tons of power or anything silly. Just a fun car to drive. My master cyl will be at oreillys by the time I get off work. They even price matched autozone, who was 2 days outta california with the part. twenty bucks. I know what I'm doing tonight

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Hey let me know about your spare parts when you get that far. I may be willing to buy some spare stuff off the 260z and get you some cash for your project. I also have a room full of spare parts, so if you need something, you get friend deals or maybe we can trade. So whats up with that 260z anyway? Is it rotted out or what? Oh yeah, sometimes the Master cylinders dont come with the fluid tanks, and if you have to swap them onto the new part, make sure they are spotless clean. Even a small amount of dirt can cause a leak.

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A header may be hotter,, prone to leaking,, and going to rust away but ,, that thinner metal sure makes a beautiful sound ...

 

 

So i noticed your post that your girlfriend wants a 510 now,,,lol,,, i find it kinda funny how just a wee bit ago you said she was scratching her head as to why you even cared about " that old truck" .. :lol:

 

...I know people that can do Datsun ,, and you having no reservations about disassembling your ( hitachi ) carb in a parking lot at the start of a 1 1/2 hour blast down the freeway ,, you may be newb to Ratsun but the Datsun force is strong in you.. :)

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...I know people that can do Datsun ,, and you having no reservations about disassembling your ( hitachi ) carb in a parking lot at the start of a 1 1/2 hour blast down the freeway ,, you may be newb to Ratsun but the Datsun force is strong in you.. :)

Thanks! That means Lot!

 

Its all beautiful sound untill you hit vapor lock on an interstate or hiway. Heat soak in a parking lot. Burn your hand on the brake master cylinder, and make a new wtf?/help!!! thread on Ratsun. Then the sound takes on a different emotive assignment. I turn enough heads of the police as is, I dont even want to imagine what louder would be like. People learn by getting bit. Hell, Im the same way. You get used to there being nobody credible to listen to, and have repeated sucess doing things your own way. Fortunately I found people that I learned the hard way to listen to. Now, I hardly make a move without them, even with more than a decade of hands on experience on classic Z cars. I went from the lone swordsman to the humble student. I suppose I will always be the student, untill Im in the dirt. The girls are the opposite. They look at us as the authority. Mine loves the Datsuns and likes to understand and help. I didnt want a clone so I encouraged her to choose a car she likes whether it be Datsun or other, with the lessons gleaned from the Datsun example. Older, proven, good looking, and with plenty of undying support of fans, parts availability, aftermarket support, and lots of hard work to make it the way you want. She chose older fox mustangs. She gets great enjoyment out of it, saves money, and changed the water pump herself recently. She asks a lot of questions. Its amazing how able some women are when it comes to cars. Shes interested in how and why of mechanical, but has no interest in bodywork or painting. I can also see why his girl would like a 510. Besides being a Datsun its a nonoffensive design, and a badass when it comes down to it. It kind of captures a womans ideal.

Story of my life. If I ain't doin it my way or the hard way I ain't doin it. Worst that'll happen, I'll decide i dont like it and put the stock exhaust back on.

 

Hey let me know about your spare parts when you get that far. I may be willing to buy some spare stuff off the 260z and get you some cash for your project. I also have a room full of spare parts, so if you need something, you get friend deals or maybe we can trade. So whats up with that 260z anyway? Is it rotted out or what? Oh yeah, sometimes the Master cylinders dont come with the fluid tanks, and if you have to swap them onto the new part, make sure they are spotless clean. Even a small amount of dirt can cause a leak.

Spare parts? Yes. Lol I have LOTS of spare parts. Too many actually(is there such a thing?)

I'm a hood and quarter panel away from having a third 260. Still got a 620 in my garage that needs to be picked over a bit more so I can have the other half of my shop back.

 

Well, break times over. I got a date with a master cyl, a stuck caliper, and two carbs to lean out.

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I prefer a header over a stock mani, but wrapped. A proper coated one wont "rust away". I cant stand the noise of the pinging from a header either that (and heat) is why I always prefer wrapped. On a stock motor I wouldnt expect any gains though.

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Got the master cyl replaced. Brakes work almost as they should. Then I spent two hours looking for the impact socket I used last night. Didn't find it. Drives me crazy. It was the very last thing I had in my hand before I set it down and turned off the light and walked out of my shop. I declare shenanigans. I didn't take it off my breaker bar ratchet, the ratchet was where I left it but the socket... I think someone liberated it. I finnaly gave up and used a tire iron. Took the caliper off and as I suspected the piston appears to be seized up. I couldn't turn the rotor even with a cheater bar. Good news is, rotors, druns, pads, and drum brake guts look brand new. Like, actually brand new new. Never been turned, no discoloration or tracking. Now that I think of it, the seals on the caliper seemed in very good shape too. I'm gonna have to see if perhaps I can fix it before I go pull one off the other z car. I'd like to leave the spare as complete as possible. I'm still undecided wether I want to fix it or sell it. the motor in the good Z isn't as "snappy" as I think it should be. There's no hesitation but doesn't rap out as quick as I think it should. More carb adjustments? I think I still wanna get a Zguru to lay his holy hand upon my carbs.

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I wish you lived closer I could give you a hand. Have you tuned the su's and gaped the plugs etc.. yet?

 

Talk about loosing stuff I'm the worst, its really annoying. Especially if I smoke before the job lol.

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Plugs where Pre gapped. I made them verify at the store;) it's funny, they don't ask me what I need parts for anymore. They just ask what I need.

 

SU's tuned? No. Tinkered with.. Yes. I don't have the tools to properly adjust them.

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