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quick alternator question


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just put the new alternator on after comin back from canby...

 

fires up, and is charging, but the key doesnt turn it off anymore.

 

what different in this alternator than the one previous thats making it keep running?

 

any help is appreciated..

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its PN 213-8116.. i looked it up in the NAPA book and its a 35a externally regulated unit..

 

ggzilla, my previous alt was the FN unit in the 1st pic... the one i have looks close to the LS type, but its not that kind for sure..

 

i tested it and it puts out 12.5-13v at idle, and then ramps up to 15-16v when rpm goes up..

 

regulator is bad.. poop :(

 

i think its time to get the regulator out of the weather, and in the cab.. this is the 4th in 4 years..

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That low voltage is in spec. It's supposed to be 13.5+ at 1200 RPM, but can be less at lowe RPMs.

 

But 16.0 volts is too much. If you are not measuring at the battery Terminals, clean the connections.

 

Do not measure at the back of the alternator or at the battery cables. If the battery is 15.5 but the cables are 16.0 then the cables need cleaning.

 

Here's what Nissan said

24525.jpg

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i think the conversion is the same process for the 510 as it is the 620. its the same for b210's and 1200's as a 510. i did mine according to this dime quarterly article. http://dimequarterly...nally.html it's very nice to have an IR instead of an ER alternator. and its only two wires spliced together and its totally reversible if, for whatever reason, you don't want IR anymore.

 

EDIT: i've got pics of the little jumper modification if you want to see what it looks like on mine.

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its PN 213-8116.. i looked it up in the NAPA book and its a 35a externally regulated unit..

 

ggzilla, my previous alt was the FN unit in the 1st pic... the one i have looks close to the LS type, but its not that kind for sure..

 

i tested it and it puts out 12.5-13v at idle, and then ramps up to 15-16v when rpm goes up..

 

regulator is bad.. poop :(

 

i think its time to get the regulator out of the weather, and in the cab.. this is the 4th in 4 years..

 

... and re-wiring at least the regulator wiring if you decide to leave it in the engine bay. You'll be much happier !

 

Also off the back of my head ... in zcars it is a simple bypass of (2) wires and wiring in a diode purchased from Radio shack . Zowners can buy a plug with a diode soldered in an easy "plug n play" bypass connector for early s30 IR alternator conversion.

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They are talking about replacing your alternator and regulator with an IR alternator.

 

But first you need to find out if the regulator is bad or it's just a wiring issue.

 

By the way, no diode is needed. Just use the Hitachi LR150/LR160 that the 720 and 210 use -- those IR have a built-in diode. Make it simple. Or use the 620/720 small-diameter unit LR135.

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i think the conversion is the same process for the 510 as it is the 620. its the same for b210's and 1200's as a 510. i did mine according to this dime quarterly article. http://dimequarterly...nally.html it's very nice to have an IR instead of an ER alternator. and its only two wires spliced together and its totally reversible if, for whatever reason, you don't want IR anymore.

 

EDIT: i've got pics of the little jumper modification if you want to see what it looks like on mine.

 

 

http://dimequarterly...tech_iralt.html

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whadaya mean? like setting it up on a relay or somethin?

 

 

Ding, ding, ding nice catch ppk. So far my options are to get a new shell or tube it and get a DD Z on the side but i cant touch the Z since insurance has to look at it.

 

No just simply replace your external regulator connectors/wiring with new ones and hot solder joints.

 

I say this since every datsun i have owned with external regulator system has worked well ! But that was after I refreshened the wiring to the external regulator(s). Zcars also require a mechanical adjustment on the contacts inside the mechanical external regulators. Solid state external regulators are non adjustable to my understanding ....

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There is a thick ground wire that goes from the alternator frame to one of the bolts that holds the voltage regulator to the body sheet metal. You need that wire. Extend it with the other wires if you move the voltage regulator location.

 

If the new voltage regulator is mechanical, it may make a slight buzz that you hear with the new location.

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well i had a new regulator shipped to me..

 

still the issue persists.

 

overall i have to say its the alternator thats not right for the truck application.

 

edit: the new reg is an old style lever contact type, and with everything plugged in as it "should" be, the regulator clicks, and freaks out hooked up like this.. just wanted to further note that..

 

is there any part number or something on the case that will tell me what specific unit i have?

 

the 2136118PN on its sticker is just the generic 35amp ext reg unit..

 

heres a picture of the pack of it..

 

IMG_20120629_194745.jpg

 

IMG_20120629_194536.jpg

 

i wish they would have had the hitachi with the black plastic covers... those never have issues..

 

again, any help is awesome..

 

thanks

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so if its IR, then how is it hooked up to bypass the regulator?

 

chet said yellow to white, and then whi-blk to whi-red.

 

i did this, and now my fuel pump is not working, all kinds of shit smells all melty now..

 

im kinda fed up with this damn charging system..

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