ggzilla Posted June 17, 2012 Report Share Posted June 17, 2012 This is the best thing I ever did to my Datsun. It's now more fun to drive in town and on the highway. Datsuns came with antiquated Wheel Alignment settings. Many didn't drive very straight even when new, but wandered left and right a little bit. A little more castor will fix that! * Before: two hands gripping the steering wheel, making frequent steering adjustments on straight roads * After: two hands lightly holding the steering wheel, making occasional steering adjustment Cut the Tension Rod rubber bushings in half, and shorten the metal spacer and put it back together. It will pull the wheels forward just enough to track well, with no wandering. Even with hands off the wheel it will drive straight. DETAILS The photos are of my Datsun 1200, but other Datsun models with McPherson strut suspension are similar. 1. Park on a level surface and measure the toe-in. Mine was right on spec, 3mm closer at front of tire compared to rear of tire (or 4mm measured from tread centerline, but as you can see I measured closer to the hub) I used the long stick to go clear across the car and measured front tape to rear tape. 2. Remove the Tension Rod (castor rod). Undo the front nut, then the two bolts on the LCA, then pull it out. 3. Cut rubber bushings in half. Cut the metal spacer tube in half. 4. Insert back through the Tension Rod Bracket and tighten bolts to specification. Remember this is suspension parts, you life depends on them, so do not weaken the fasteners by overtightening. Your repair manual will list the correct torque. 5. Re-measure the Toe-in, and if out of spec (4-6mm) then evenly rotate the side-rod ends until Toe-in is correct. See Toe-in Enjoy driving. 1 Quote Link to comment
Guest 510kamikazifreak Posted June 17, 2012 Report Share Posted June 17, 2012 Nice.. :thumbup: also The 210 caps do suite the Dslots well. Put some on a set aboot 8 years ago,looked like they belong :w00t: Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted June 17, 2012 Report Share Posted June 17, 2012 Niceeee. Would you happen to know how the caster would be adjusted on a torsion bar/620 suspension? I've been very curious about it since I started learning about front alignment. BTW, this is a good read for anyone interested in learning more about front alignments. It also lists all specs for most Datsun front ends. http://www.camplulu....OnAlignment.pdf Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted June 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2012 The great thing is that measuring toe-in doesn't require very sophisticated methods. Does the 620 torsion bar do the forward/aft locating (similar to the Tension Rod on a strut suspension)? Quote Link to comment
RedBanner Posted June 17, 2012 Report Share Posted June 17, 2012 No it doesnt, they just act as a spring tension on the a-arms, its a twisty spring, the sespinion would need shims or re clock some castor into it. The trucks are alot different. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted June 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2012 So it's like typical double A-arm supension, like big american vehicles. You put shims on top or bottom A-arm to change camber, and move the A-arms a little to do caster changes. I do know this, on a 620 you change the Toe-in exactly the same way as on a Datsun strut suspension. Turn the tie-rod bars evenly on both sides. Quote Link to comment
yello620 Posted June 17, 2012 Report Share Posted June 17, 2012 I do know this, on a 620 you change the Toe-in exactly the same way as on a Datsun strut suspension. Turn the tie-rod bars evenly on both sides. Try again...A 620 only has one adjuster in the centerlink. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted June 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2012 My mistake, you are correct. For a 620 turn the cross rod, not the tie-rod bars. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 17, 2012 Report Share Posted June 17, 2012 L&R threads on the ends... just loosen the nuts and turn the center under the oil pan to adjust. Like a turnbuckle. Quote Link to comment
RedBanner Posted June 17, 2012 Report Share Posted June 17, 2012 Awsome write up btw, I should have opened with that lol Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 17, 2012 Report Share Posted June 17, 2012 Shortening the tension rod moves the outer end of the LCA forwards. Does this not stress the LCA mounting point on the cross member which is at 90 degrees? Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted June 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2012 Slightly. Guys have been doing this for decades. Gary P. has his pulled a full three inches forward, but then he is autocrossing it. Mine is less than 7/8" change and apparently this causes no ill effects long-term. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 17, 2012 Report Share Posted June 17, 2012 OK, got ya. Some camber plates have a rearward adjustment component for caster also. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted June 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2012 Good point. That's the other common way to get more caster: use 4-way adjustable strut tops. 2-way Camber only plate 4-way camber/caster plate or non-adjustable Shortening the bushing collar is the no-cost way. Quote Link to comment
RedBanner Posted June 23, 2012 Report Share Posted June 23, 2012 2 down sides to this that comcern me, 1. With out milling the shaft down to let the washer/bushing flange down the tc further your pretty limited on how far you take it or dont. 2. The tc rod should move verry freely on a well tuned setup, cutting the rear busshing in half (at a flex point no less) stiffens the tc rod movement a whole bunch, alot alot. Tho it was a great idea im glad I tried a b one first becouse its not realy the feal I want, every thing on the suspention should move very easily, exept the spring and dampner. It was effective, moved my b tc forward a half inch+. Quote Link to comment
Uber Deaf One Posted June 23, 2012 Report Share Posted June 23, 2012 Good point. That's the other common way to get more caster: use 4-way adjustable strut tops. 2-way Camber only plate 4-way camber/caster plate or non-adjustable Shortening the bushing collar is the no-cost way. Does anyone make 4 way adjustable camber plates for the 510? Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted June 23, 2012 Report Share Posted June 23, 2012 Does anyone make 4 way adjustable camber plates for the 510? ermish... and...ground control...maybe others... Quote Link to comment
Uber Deaf One Posted June 24, 2012 Report Share Posted June 24, 2012 Oh now I see why they're called 4 way adjustable... the T3 camber plates (what I have) are like this as well. Quote Link to comment
LeviGideon Posted June 24, 2012 Report Share Posted June 24, 2012 Thanks, great write up. Did this yesterday evening. Took it out on some curvy country roads today. Definitely a lot more stable and responsive all around.... Quote Link to comment
68Datsun510 Posted June 25, 2012 Report Share Posted June 25, 2012 I assume this wouldnt work so well on LCA's with poly bushings......... Would stiffen it too much. Definitely on a want list... Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted June 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2012 A lot of guys don't recommend poly for Tension Rod bushings at all. I wouldn't use them with this method, use rubber so there is some give when you hit pavement joints and the like at 60 mph. Quote Link to comment
q-tip Posted July 13, 2012 Report Share Posted July 13, 2012 Dont use this mod on your car if you have poly lca bushings, they are too stiff and will bind. Great write up!! Quote Link to comment
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