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Has anyone done a ford nine inch rear on a datsun 210??

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I own a 1982 Datsun 210 coupe with a Ka24e-t i know people have done the h165 or something like that. But i want something a little better (Stronger)then that so any info,pics will be nice thanks.

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yep, 9" has been done many times

 

There is a bolt-in alternative. Datsun H190 is a direct bolt-in, from 1982-1983 200SX. Has disc brakes too. H190 is strong enough for a V8.

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I've been narrowing Toyota diffs. Same strenght as a 9 inch in a smaller package.

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Ok how much should one of those go for @ a junk yard.

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H190 all the way! Comes with 3.37 and 4.11 with auto trans ratio plus with some 13" rims your acceleration will be fast!

anywho h190 is a direct bolt in. I'm running h190 with all stock s14 ka with a 6 Puck sprung clutxh with heavy duty pressure plate and some 14x8x20 MT slicks I can Max out the Rev limiter and launch and I will hook instantly with no problems with my h190 (:

The h190 has a 29 or 28 spline axles and its thickness compares to a 8.8 Ford rear. I'm.sure it will hold 5oo pounds of tourqe correct me.if I'm wrong.Mike.. so of Yu plan on pushing that number go with a 9 if not h190 is yrr best bet.. you can even get them fro

.the 84' s12 it has a wider track base but comes with drums. But its Way cheaper then the s110 rearends Yu can always.swap over h165 disk on.it as I did (;

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Thanks for the info everyone so today i went to a local shop trying to buy me a 200sx diff.They had one but it looked like it took cv axles instead of being solid like the one on my 1981 b310 sedan is that normal

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200sx from '85 up had IRS. only the '82-'84 had H-190.

 

 

H-190 good for just under 300 ft lbs.

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My project v8 240z has a 31-spline (not 28 spline like earlier 8.8 diff's) straight axle 1995 Ford Mustang 8.8" Traction-lok (lsd) disc brake differential.

GM 12-bolt Posi is a 30-spline I believe. There was an article comparing the two. I am typically a cheby fan in many regards.

 

Ford 9" (non-later notch style) have non-taper straight axles ...and are splined enough back that you are able to cut about 3" off !? without a worry. Which is really neat as you can cut them and slide it in the same as before. Of course the housing needs to be shortened and either big end bearings or small end bearings housing ends welded back on. I love this differential.

 

H190 seems like your best bet to begin with for a lot of reasons. ( especially budget + time + viability to get project acheived ).

 

---- My approximate for me/someone else to throw in a Ford LSD 8.8 into where a 240z r180 Nissan IRS setup use to be ----

 

+ Ford 8.8 LSD Disc Brake rear end = $200-$400 vary's

+ Tubing material (4-link frame + sub framing ) = $250-$400 vary's on builder and area.

+ Stiffer suspension items (coil springs + upper and lower spring pads + shocks + shock brackets + retainers) = $200-$400

+ 4-link related pieces = $275 ( brackets on both sides + Thick wall structural tubing + rod ends + rod end spacers(if needed) + plumb-line up tools + etc )

+ Mustang Brake/genral brake conversion pieces if needed = $100-$250 ( Bigger master + Bigger booster + lines + tools + etc )

+ Custom driveline by six-states distributor's made = $250

+ (2) Mustang Bullit Wheels with Brand new tires = $220

+ Flux-core or Mig Welding wire = $70-$200

+ Welding Gas = $70-$140+ ish ... depends on supplier and area.

+ Cut off wheels and Chop saw discs = $100

+ Reciprocating saw blades = $25-60-ish

+ Lots of extra project time in measuring measuring cut weld weld weld and rinse plus repeat = never enough time :rolleyes: ... and everything take 2x-3x longer than originally projected.

+ Numerous trips to Ace Hardware ... for various things ... cost of gas = time time time + money for those things so lets say $50-$80

+ Paint or Rust preventative = $50-$200 vary's

 

Conservatively = $2,200 for myself to convert to Ford 8.8" LSD versus .... another little modification ? option ... say your choice H-190 which cost pennies on the dollar comparivetly !

 

I didn't shorten the axle either which would be = varies per shop/person. lets say around $400+ !?

Redrilling Axles + Drums/Discs to your pattern if not using 5-lug wheels = $100 !?-ish (give some)

This rear-end still have c-clip axle clips. Axle hub-end retainers cost = $200+ ... required for certain HP drag racing as well.

 

Of course you're not neccessarily going to 4-link it. _Using existing spring system is cheaper in many regards if applicable. It might even be a near bolt in ?

 

I choose my Ford 8.8 because it was the right price for the diff ... came from a t-boned mustang that was parked and sat with low miles .... it's the width of the axle I want/like... I get disc brakes easily without a hassle ... I haven't shortened the rear axle as I like the flared look ....perfect gearing for me as it has tall 2.73 gears ... combined with a 4-spd ... and I plan on sticking with 4-spd's ... 5-lug pattern perfect to the wheels I like .... having 300-320+ft lb's of torque on the engine conservatily to start ... and factory lsd ...this rear axle was made to be behind a v8. I plan on building my engine more ... especially low-end torque.

 

My choice differential is not superior to others listed or mentioned. I'm not brand loyale lol.

Every feature on this differential I posted above ... is exactly what I wanted and especially needed to the last detial ( except the shitty paper thin diff cover lol )

So you can see.. it simply worked out perfectly for me !

 

I'm posting all this above info so anyone ...

who is thinking of converting to an exotic swap mix of an differential can get a fair understanding of what to start to expect of what is to come.

Custom 4-link differential conversions requiring a lot of welding and cutting ... these are not for the faint of heart (or noobs lol) ... but for the wise people who listen and read.

 

$2,200 is not small pennies.... <--- can buy a lot of cool stuff for that ... or a few datsuns lol ... or a cool datsun .... engine swap ... etc.

Some may think that's way to much or I'm an idiot for spending that much. I do somedays :lol: ... but am still happy and this is what it takes and what I want ! :D

Until someone actually spends the time on looking at the parts and geometry involved with each individual 4-link system in relation to the individual car ... the solution is much easier to see on picture or even looking at someone else's project versus your own project. When it's your own project you realize how much more is really involved... more so than words can state and it's not simply a black/white situation ... more of a grey situation really as many comprimises are involved lol.

 

Nis720 has a cool writeup on Ford 8.8" into a 720. He did a very good job on documentation and explanation.

 

 

Your choice of H-190 is a good move especially for budget.

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H190 all the way! Comes with 3.37 and 4.11 with auto trans ratio plus with some 13" rims your acceleration will be fast!

anywho h190 is a direct bolt in. I'm running h190 with all stock s14 ka with a 6 Puck sprung clutxh with heavy duty pressure plate and some 14x8x20 MT slicks I can Max out the Rev limiter and launch and I will hook instantly with no problems with my h190 (:

The h190 has a 29 or 28 spline axles and its thickness compares to a 8.8 Ford rear. I'm.sure it will hold 5oo pounds of tourqe correct me.if I'm wrong.Mike.. so of Yu plan on pushing that number go with a 9 if not h190 is yrr best bet.. you can even get them fro

.the 84' s12 it has a wider track base but comes with drums. But its Way cheaper then the s110 rearends Yu can always.swap over h165 disk on.it as I did (;

 

Agreed the H-190 seems to be the best bet all around ! especially budget and weight issues lol :cool:

 

probably not 500ft-lbs ... lol :D

 

I didn't realize the H190 axles were that big ! cool.

Ford 8.8 Diff's have (2) versions ... earlier 8.8's have 28-splines and later 8.8's have 31-splines.

The 31-spline version is SLIGHTLY larger than a GM Corporate 12-bolt which is a 30-spline axle from my understanding.

GM 12-bolts are put behind big block chevy's with no worry.

 

So all around ... this is interesting to me :)

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i just bought an s110 H190. it cost me 150 end to end iyTt0.jpg

 

its a great deal if you can find one find one

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where are people finding these s110 190h in texas....i need one for my beater lol

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Too bad there were no H-190 LSDs. If in the mood to shorten, get a D-21 or Pathfinder axle. They are larger than the Ford 9" and had 4 pinion LSDs with either 4.375 or 4.625 gears (although likely you could swap lower ones in from Xterra or whatever) They also came with Disc brakes.

 

My 4.625 'posi'. This thing is the size of a bushel basket and HEAVY!!

 

 

 

 

Pathfinder--D-21conversion027Large.jpg

 

H-233discbrake001Large.jpg

 

 

Have to cut the 4 link off and add spring perches. D-21 have leaf springs already.

Pathfinder--D-21conversion031Large.jpg

 

Pathfinder--D-21conversion045Large.jpg

 

Takes two to carry with extreme difficulty with axles and discs still on.

 

 

 

LSD is needed if racing or big motor where traction is a problem. Tell the truth the tires will act like fuses. They will spin long before you can apply 300-500 ft pounds of torque. If running drag slicks (aluminum foil) this could be a problem.

.

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I'm going with h165 but dam is to wide, I may have ask around if I could narrow it without to much mods, at lease 1"1/2 inch. So I could go my 14x9, I don't mind flaring little more.

aa-7.jpg

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Too bad there were no H-190 LSDs. If in the mood to shorten, get a D-21 or Pathfinder axle. They are larger than the Ford 9" and had 4 pinion LSDs with either 4.375 or 4.625 gears (although likely you could swap lower ones in from Xterra or whatever) They also came with Disc brakes.

 

My 4.625 'posi'. This thing is the size of a bushel basket and HEAVY!!

 

 

 

 

Pathfinder--D-21conversion027Large.jpg

 

H-233discbrake001Large.jpg

 

 

Have to cut the 4 link off and add spring perches. D-21 have leaf springs already.

Pathfinder--D-21conversion031Large.jpg

 

Pathfinder--D-21conversion045Large.jpg

 

Takes two to carry with extreme difficulty with axles and discs still on.

 

 

 

LSD is needed if racing or big motor where traction is a problem. Tell the truth the tires will act like fuses. They will spin long before you can apply 300-500 ft pounds of torque. If running drag slicks (aluminum foil) this could be a problem.

.

 

Huh... Now that's pretty cool stuff right there ^^^

Curious ... How big are the axles and outer bearings ?

 

Vex210 ... If it were me.. i'd look into only shorten a rear differential you really want in the long term .. just my opinion ( unless done for dirt cheap ). Shortening can get expensive depending .. especially if re-splining or custom axles (depending) if needed.

If this is the one you want for for it ! Make the differential work for you ... not you work for the differential :) !

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Looks like 31-spline earlier ones and 33-spline laters as well ... disc brakes ... 9.1" ring gear ... damn cool.

Xterra and Pathfinder appears to be the same 4.375 or 4.625 gear ratios... I'm going to keep looking

$329.99 for new aftermarket Ring and Pinion4.625 sets.

 

cool stuff.

Looking around for more.

Would be nice if they had a 3.90 or 4.11 option ? (to my knowledge)

Something taller.

 

I do know a guy with 225k on his H233B .. Pathfinder.

thirdfell apart and metal shaving everywhere.

had full oil in it to .. weird !

I'm not sure if it was simply abused , neglected , or .... !?

he never 4x4 in it other than snow and ice 1-2 weeks a year in the NW.

Bad bearing's and ring gear looked less than usable.

Swapped it out and wen't !

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I'm loving the info being posted about the diffs.Btw so i could use the d21 diff just have to modify the strut part an thats it!!!!if so cool but will it stick out alot??? pic will be great.

 

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I find it interesting as well.

 

You need to measure your wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface.

Then measure wheel offset and tire size.

Jack yo one side if the axle to figure max travel Haha.

Then measure wheel well dimensions. Outer edge to outer edge.

 

Remember your tire sidewalls need some room to breath and flex.

I recommend to have a diff shortened that you wish to keep in the long term.

 

I too like a little bit of flaring/wider track width :D

Body work to make those flares look close to correct will take some time lol.

 

Contact jesusno2 ... He shortened Toyota LSD diffs for datsuns as well.

For now ...

 

Record these figures in a notebook/file.

 

*Existing ride height (I measure from bottom rocker edge to ground ... Same spot each time !)

*wheel width and offset.

*Tire width and height.

*wms to wms of current diff.

*spring travel/rate

*shock travel/rate.

*coil/spring perch distance.

*frame width or car. Inner and outer.

*centerline of car.

*centerline of old and new differential.

*Pinion Angle of old differential. (Use a degree finder)

* Current transmission angle. (Use a degree finder)

* Coilovers or utilize existing type suspension.

* Do I need a panhard bar or not ? Is there room for one.

*If I setup a subframe ... Do I need to weld in tubing or not ?

*etc. Just write down everything ! Remember clearance clearance clearance and measure lots.

 

***add all costs of everything = x2 (Trust me ... It can happen lol)

 

 

^^^ All of this can be done with a measuring tape , an angle finder , and a lovely helper.

Scale of 1 to 10 of difficulty I would say 1.5 for measurement stuff.

If I can anyone can !

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I am super surprised nobody said MoPar 8 3/4. Pretty cheap and easy to find, I think Moser sells cut-to-length axles, also sports 4.5 inch (same as datsun 4 lug so drilling would be easier) 5 lug wheel pattern, discs available, 10 and 11 inch drums available stock, lockers, lsd, posi available, a little lighter/smaller than 9 in ford, used behind big blocks in 4000 pound musclecars, but not behind a 440 or Hemi. Also 90% had a factory pinion snubber installed.

 

11 inch drums still clear 14 in wheels just so everyone knows

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So what kind of dodge can i take that off of @the junk yard also how hard is it to modify it to fit the datsun body.Also pics of this diff would be great.

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a few darts and dusters had them, alot of b bodies(midsize like charger, satellite, coronet, roadrunner) had them, ALL the older trucks had them, ALL the older Imperials and furies had them, look for 65-71 year models, they use three part numbers for hogheads/diff carriers, 489, 741, and 742. Avoid the 741 unless it has the gears you want. Avoid anything with tapered axles(meaning GIANT like 1 3/4 nut right smack in the middle of the hub).

 

These are a frontloading rear, lke a 9in, but the back is a perfectly round dome. Few or none had the shock mounts welded on.

 

Well, obviously this will need to be shortened. Very Carefully!!! take a sawzall or portaband and cut the bearing housings off the axle housing. Dress them on a bench grinder and get the remaining piece of tube out of them. Cut the axle tubes to the desired measurement. This will take some thinking and measuring with the bearing housings.

 

Now weld the bearing cups back on the rear, taking care not to build up too much heat, add your spring perches and shock brackets, and bolt the thing in.

 

Oreder the cut to length axleshafts. Cut to length. Deburr on belt sander. Slide em in and install the 5 9/16 bearing retaining nuts. Install wheels. Lather, rinse, repeat for other side.

 

Seriously, a sawzall, a grinder, a welder, 9/16 deep socket, three inch extension, rachet, thats about it. I would say grab the spring plates and u bolts too. Stock 5 lug chrysler wheels fit, toyota, ford rims need the center hole opened up some.

 

Do I need to source one and do this as a how -to?

 

I actually used to cut down the truck axles and respline em with a dremel tool, then I got a life...

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So i found a Datsun 620 rear end today but its six lug.i was wondering if i could make it the lug pattern thats on my car now it's a 81 Datsun b310 sedan.

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I've been thinking of doing a 7.5" Ford along with a Detroit Tru Trac for my recently acquired 1980 210. It's going to be getting a KA24DE and I think that would be the perfect axle seeing as I do want an LSD (gonna Auto-X) anyone know if there is any problem narrowing these? I'd really love to have it setup to where I could use a ZERO offset wheel on the back and be flush as possible without rolling the fender lips.

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