_chiefjt Posted June 11, 2012 Report Share Posted June 11, 2012 So I picked up my Nissan for $850 but it has an exaughst leak. The pipes are rusted through so I gonna replace the whole exaughst. My question is what are the best performance headers for the cheapest price? Thanks, Quote Link to comment
_chiefjt Posted June 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2012 Sorry I forgot to mention its a 1985 Nissan 720 shortbed, z24 motor. Quote Link to comment
SHORTDOG Posted June 11, 2012 Report Share Posted June 11, 2012 I heard that pacesetter headers are the way to go! :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted June 11, 2012 Report Share Posted June 11, 2012 I think Pacesetter is the ONLY way to go. Try searching and those are the only ones you'll find. My criteria for headers: thick flange - 3/8" or better - thin flanges cause gaskets to blow out chrome or stainless - a mild steel header, unless ceramic coated, will only last 5-10 years better than "shop class" welds ball and socket style or V-band flange at collector - 3 bolt gaskets constantly blow out easy to get wrench in around bolts plenty of room for spark plug boots But I can't always find what I want, so I either build one or keep the cast manifold. If your manifold is bad, Dorman makes new ones that you can get for less than $100. Quote Link to comment
_chiefjt Posted June 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2012 Well I don't think my manifold is cracked i think the exaughst leak is coming from the gasket. I've seen some Pacesetter Headers they seem pretty expensive. I want to put the 4 to 1 headers on it but don't know which ones to get. I'm only 16 and it's my first car so yeah. I'm just getting into this. Would the hardbody headers fit? Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted June 13, 2012 Report Share Posted June 13, 2012 Well that's cool that you're getting your hands dirty so young. I wouldn't worry either way, just do it and learn from it. I don't know if Hardbody parts would work or not... Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 2, 2012 Report Share Posted July 2, 2012 Well I don't think my manifold is cracked i think the exaughst leak is coming from the gasket. I've seen some Pacesetter Headers they seem pretty expensive. I want to put the 4 to 1 headers on it but don't know which ones to get. I'm only 16 and it's my first car so yeah. I'm just getting into this. Would the hardbody headers fit? The gasket is $0.50. Fix it rather than spending $200+. If you don't have smog tests in Nevada, chuck the cat converter and run a nice straight 2" or 2 1/4" (no larger) pipe back to a larger muffler. You want a bit more sound just use a short elbow section pointing down and get rid of your tailpipe. Headers: Don't always fit and need 'adjustments' when installing. Gaskets leak at head or downpipe. Rust out unless you spend $100 more for coating. Noisy/loud. Radiate more heat under the hood. You pay $50-$75 per horsepower gained, a very bad investment for something you won't even feel when driving around. The Z24 makes it's power at speeds where the exhaust system isn't a limiting factor. Save your money and get a NEW 32/36 direct replacement Weber carb from Redline. The Z24 is a large motor with an undersize carb and responds well to something slightly larger. You'll definitely feel this when driving around. Quote Link to comment
jesusno2 Posted July 2, 2012 Report Share Posted July 2, 2012 The gasket is $0.50. Fix it rather than spending $200+. If you don't have smog tests in Nevada, chuck the cat converter and run a nice straight 2" or 2 1/4" (no larger) pipe back to a larger muffler. You want a bit more sound just use a short elbow section pointing down and get rid of your tailpipe. Headers: Don't always fit and need 'adjustments' when installing. Gaskets leak at head or downpipe. Rust out unless you spend $100 more for coating. Noisy/loud. Radiate more heat under the hood. You pay $50-$75 per horsepower gained, a very bad investment for something you won't even feel when driving around. The Z24 makes it's power at speeds where the exhaust system isn't a limiting factor. Save your money and get a NEW 32/36 direct replacement Weber carb from Redline. The Z24 is a large motor with an undersize carb and responds well to something slightly larger. You'll definitely feel this when driving around. Couldnt agree with ya more mike! that pacesetter header is totall shit! had one once. they look cool but thats about it. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted July 2, 2012 Report Share Posted July 2, 2012 Mike, are you calling the Hitachi DCH340 and "undersized carburetor"? It actually is slightly larger than the Weber 32/36. Guys like the 32/36 because a new carb beats an old worn-out carb! Weber 32/36: has 26/27 venturis - 1103 square mm area DCH340 L20B: has 24/31 venturis - 1208 square mm area Guam671, if your carburetor is worn out, definitely replace it! Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 2, 2012 Report Share Posted July 2, 2012 Headers are good for race engines or... the more you have modified your motor the better the reason for having one. Otherwise, all motors work just fine without them. This is specially true for the Z motor which in it's stock state produces very little extra power above 4K and the stock manifold is more than adequate for this. The butt dyno is extremely subjective and the ear dyno even worse. More noise from the exhaust is like crack to the ear and it starts telling the brain there's more power!!! But there is one other thing that I like to call the placebo effect. This is a direct relation between to how much better/powerful you believe your car is, to how much money you spent on it. In other words if you spent $500 on it, it just HAS to run better, make more power, handle better, get better mileage, stop faster..... If it's chrome or shiny times two! Speed shops have been selling placebo parts for years to those who have no idea if it's any better or worse. And paying big bucks too. That $180 cold air system... you can get the same effect for $10 worth of dryer vent hose. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 2, 2012 Report Share Posted July 2, 2012 Mike, are you calling the Hitachi DCH340 and "undersized carburetor"? It actually is slightly larger than the Weber 32/36. Guys like the 32/36 because a new carb beats an old worn-out carb! Weber 32/36: has 26/27 venturis - 1103 square mm area DCH340 L20B: has 24/31 venturis - 1208 square mm area Guam671, if your carburetor is worn out, definitely replace it! Perhaps a poor choice of wording.... I think you'll find that the 32/26 will flow more air than the Hitachi regardless of the numbers. I seem to remember the Weber flowing 270 CFM?? Besides, the Hitachi is a compromise between power, economy, emissions and drive ability and at these it's the best one of the two hands down. Quote Link to comment
vabeach454 Posted July 4, 2012 Report Share Posted July 4, 2012 I saw the Weber 32/36 Kits on Ebay @ Redline for like $269 Shipped. That seems very reasonable. How hard are they to install? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 4, 2012 Report Share Posted July 4, 2012 Everything included. http://community.ratsun.net/user/2344-sealik/ has done this on a 720, ask him. Quote Link to comment
vabeach454 Posted July 4, 2012 Report Share Posted July 4, 2012 Everything included. http://community.rat...er/2344-sealik/ has done this on a 720, ask him. Thanks... is there a how to on the Forum? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 4, 2012 Report Share Posted July 4, 2012 Again ask Sealick. He has some of the info you want in his build thread where he installs the weber I think. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted July 4, 2012 Report Share Posted July 4, 2012 It's a kit, it needs no how-to. From Redline kits, get the air cleaner, adapter and throttle bracket, It's as easy as putting a stock carburetor back on. Quote Link to comment
_chiefjt Posted July 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2012 Thanks for all the good advice. After driving it for a couple weeks now I noticed there is thing that NEEDS to be done. My exhaust. The only thing good thing thats left is the manifold. It needs to be done but which way should I go? Option 1: Should I leave the stock exhaust manifold and put new piping with a 40 series flowmaster? Option 2: Or should I just wait and put a header and new piping with a 40 series flowmaster? The thing is is that eventually I'll put headers I just don't want to redo it if I'm gonna put headers anyway. Which way is the best to go? Money is tight and I have no income since I'm 16 with no job so I think Option 1 is the way to go. Quote Link to comment
_chiefjt Posted July 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2012 Oh and I do need a new carb. so should I wait to put side drafts or replace it with a weber? It's good for now but it'll eventually get replaced after it gives out. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted July 5, 2012 Report Share Posted July 5, 2012 Use the stock cast header -- it has good performance. fit a nice exhaust system to it. You'll love driving it. If the carburetor is good now, chances are it will be good next year too. I prefer the Hitachi to the Weber since the Hitachi gets the best fuel economy. Power is about the same once you jet them optimally. Weber come with a generic jetting that is rich but makes good power. Few people rejet them, or rejet the stock Hitachi. But you can get good power and fuel economy both with proper jetting. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 5, 2012 Report Share Posted July 5, 2012 Keep the exhaust manifold. For the price of a header you can replace the rest of the system with a nice custom 2 1/4" all the way back. Get a larger muffler to fit. Flowmaster and others just make noise. Stock exhaust manifold... NEVER rusts out Quieter Is already installed Costs nothing Works just as good on a stock motor. 1 Quote Link to comment
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