ninjabortion Posted June 8, 2012 Report Share Posted June 8, 2012 I found this pdf on the googles, but was wondering if anyone knew of a guide out there? If there isn't i'm more than happy to take some step by step pics, mainly so i don't forget what goes where :P http://ddgonzal.members.winisp.net/wiki/PHH/Mikuni-PHH.pdf Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted June 8, 2012 Report Share Posted June 8, 2012 I don't know of a good guide, but I have rebuilt dozens of them. Are they in good working order now, do they even work or are you ressurecting carbs from the depths of hell? If the latter, then there are a couple things to look out for that the manuals won't explain. Quote Link to comment
datsundash Posted June 8, 2012 Report Share Posted June 8, 2012 They are very easy to work on, be sure to soak them in carb dip for a few days to dissolve any varnish in the passageways. Also be sure to get with todd walrich @ wolf creek racing fro your parts needs. Quote Link to comment
john510 Posted June 8, 2012 Report Share Posted June 8, 2012 That link you provided is the best one i could find.I just rebuilt a pair of 44's that i bought on ebay.They were supposedly in excellent working condtion and ready to bolt on.That wasnt the case,one had what looked like beach sand in it and the other looked like it had water in it.I was a little scared to take them apart but it was actually pretty simple,do one at a time so you can look at a complete carb if you get confused. Quote Link to comment
ninjabortion Posted June 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2012 I don't know of a good guide, but I have rebuilt dozens of them. Are they in good working order now, do they even work or are you ressurecting carbs from the depths of hell? If the latter, then there are a couple things to look out for that the manuals won't explain. they are supposedly in good working order and off a L18 with ported heads and cam that i'm going to put in my truck, but been sitting awhile. i'd like to just freshen em up so i don't have to worry about em. i'd love some tips :) They are very easy to work on, be sure to soak them in carb dip for a few days to dissolve any varnish in the passageways. Also be sure to get with todd walrich @ wolf creek racing fro your parts needs. yeah wolf creek was on par with online prices for rebuild kits, but i managed to get a set of em through the forums here for half that even. i already got a big 1gal jug of carb dip, hoping it's big enough to drop an entire carb in there :P That link you provided is the best one i could find.I just rebuilt a pair of 44's that i bought on ebay.They were supposedly in excellent working condtion and ready to bolt on.That wasnt the case,one had what looked like beach sand in it and the other looked like it had water in it.I was a little scared to take them apart but it was actually pretty simple,do one at a time so you can look at a complete carb if you get confused. yeah i had a weber like that once, pretty gnarly looking and the pics didn't really show the bad angles... lesson learned, ask for more pics. def planning on doing em 1 at a time. anyone have a favorite air cleaner for em? mine came with some ramflo's but no foam, and the foams alone are like 30 shipped from oz and are supposedly prone to getting holes blown in em if it backfires even once. i checked speedway and couldn't find and universal filter foam for cheap, might try a motorcycle parts place in town and see what they can do... Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted June 9, 2012 Report Share Posted June 9, 2012 i already got a big 1gal jug of carb dip, hoping it's big enough to drop an entire carb in there :P anyone have a favorite air cleaner for em? mine came with some ramflo's but no foam, and the foams alone are like 30 shipped from oz and are supposedly prone to getting holes blown in em if it backfires even once. i checked speedway and couldn't find and universal filter foam for cheap, might try a motorcycle parts place in town and see what they can do... OK, since they were running, they probably don't need to be carb dipped. You can do it, you just have to be careful with that stuff, it can corrode the parts if they are left in too long. The pump body, on the bottom of the carb, between the carb body and the accelerator pump has a check ball in it, and is prone to calcification. When you have the pump body off, shake it next to your ear. You should be able to hear the check ball rattling in there. If you can't hear it, the check ball could be stuck. There's no real way to rebuild that, but I have used fine wire (like from a wire brush or wire wheel) held by a needle nose pliers to clean out the orofice. Let's hope you don't need to go that route. Air cleaners are important on a couple levels. One thing people often overlook though is airflow. Don't get sock filters, because they disrupt the flow as it curls in around the velocity stack. Do get an air cleaner that allows the use of the velocity stack. Do get a filter as tall as possible, so the airflow in the front of the carb isn't choked off. I like the ITG Megaflow filters, but they don't last forever. http://www.itgfilters.net/ITG-Megaflow-Filters_c3.htm;jsessionid=18BA3FE2A4B5DA8662FFCDD443AC989A.qscstrfrnt02 Quote Link to comment
PL5DIME Posted July 31, 2013 Report Share Posted July 31, 2013 Just in case people are still looking, i found this in my search. "Copy of the Mikuni Service Manual - Maintenance and tuning, doesn't get any more in depth than this!........$ 10.00" http://www.wolfcreekracing.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=21&Itemid=30 Quote Link to comment
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