Icehouse Posted January 25, 2007 Report Share Posted January 25, 2007 I'm not gonna turbo it today, I do want to remove to booster. I like the feel a lot better without it. It is to easy to lock them up with it I think. So maybe if I drill new holes in the firewall.... well what do you guys think? Quote Link to comment
Bleach Posted January 25, 2007 Report Share Posted January 25, 2007 Keep the booster! Or put a smaller booster on from a 1973 truck. Don't run without a booster though. You should be able to lock up the tires if you need to. You have really good brakes though... I rebuilt my brakes and I had a hard time locking up the front tires even when I tried. (but it still stopped very quick) maybe you just need to put those 18's and some decent rubber on the front. That'll keep em from locking up. Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted January 25, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2007 I wonder if the older booster is shorter? that would give me some extra room.... Quote Link to comment
Bleach Posted January 25, 2007 Report Share Posted January 25, 2007 I don't think it is shorter but it is a smaller diameter. I do remember my truck would understeer all the time when i was running the old stock tires. When I put the good meats on it took corners really well. so braking was improved too. Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted January 25, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2007 I think boosters are over rated, my 620 is the only datsun I have that has one. Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted January 25, 2007 Report Share Posted January 25, 2007 The B210 booster is really small...half the size of the 620. It would still give some boost, but not as much...might be a "middle ground" choice. Not sure about connecting rod length, but the bolt pattern is the same. I've got one of each in a box around here somewhere :) Quote Link to comment
Bleach Posted January 25, 2007 Report Share Posted January 25, 2007 so you're just used to putting effort into braking. I like my newer Nissans were all you do is gently rest your foot on the brake to come to a quick stop. That's why when I get a 620 I'll be upgrading the front discs, swapping the rear to disc and running 280ZX master cylinder. I want to be able to lock up those tires at 100mph! Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted January 25, 2007 Report Share Posted January 25, 2007 The booster does more than just make it easier- it adds a level of control. The 620 brake system is designed to use a booster, and is intentionally unbalanced. The 510 brake system was designed to be unboosted. Which end are you locking up too easily? I see this happen on lowered 620s where the bed is lowered to be perfectly level. The truck originally had a slight rake. With the bed level, the NLSV is level and "thinks" that you have a heavy load so applies more rear braking. This isn't optimal when the bed is empty! Removing the booster won't change that at all, in fact it'll make braking harder and likely cause the rear to lock up more. Quote Link to comment
Bleach Posted January 25, 2007 Report Share Posted January 25, 2007 ya, which end locks up? Ice is running 18's in the back with 225 rubber and 14's in the front with probably 185/195 rubber. I assumed the front locked up. Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted January 25, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2007 Its not so much the brake bias as much is how little pressure is needed to lock them up. I just like the harder pedal. You know when you are going 70mph and all of a suden traffic is stopped. Well with the 620 I slam the breaks and they lock up due to the sensitive pedal my other datsuns don't lock up sop easy. It just seems more contorlable.. I see wat you guys mean though. Quote Link to comment
Bleach Posted January 25, 2007 Report Share Posted January 25, 2007 well man, that's nice! Even my fully rebuilt brakes in a 78 I had didn't lock up that well. I had good 205 rubber all around and a slight rake. maybe your drums are adjusted out too much already. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 27, 2007 Report Share Posted January 27, 2007 ice, I would leave it, drive it for as few months and give yourself a chance to adjust to them, and then decide. Don't forget, one day you may be carrying a passenger, two engine blocks, a transmission, your tools and a full tank of gas, and some idiot pulls out in front of you. I'm was old school, and power steering and brakes were for PUSSIES!! Well, kind of. I know now that assisted breaking can much improve stopping and assisted steering can improve handling, even avoiding accidents. Because of my truck's height, breaking causes enormous weight shift to the front. I had to stay three or four lengths back because I couldn't apply full breaks or the back end would come around. I installed an adjustable proportioning valve and turned it down almost to zero or it's maximum of 60%. Now I can stand on them and at max effort, I get a slight squeel from front and back tires. Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted January 27, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2007 I know.... its just not the way I like the brakes..... They feel weird, I will give it a couple months for my buddies though :D Quote Link to comment
Glengemen Posted February 4, 2007 Report Share Posted February 4, 2007 Hey Ice, I'm a little slow on the draw, but just disconect the vac line to the booster. Instant manual brakes. Quote Link to comment
wiwawy Posted March 3, 2007 Report Share Posted March 3, 2007 if your doing this to fit a turbo have you considered other options, i know of a guy who is putting a supercharger off a v6 xtera onto his ka powered 720 partly so he don't have to remove his, also provides better mid range torque than turbo which you would appreciate if you plan on hauling or towing Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted March 3, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2007 if your doing this to fit a turbo have you considered other options, i know of a guy who is putting a supercharger off a v6 xtera onto his ka powered 720 partly so he don't have to remove his, also provides better mid range torque than turbo which you would appreciate if you plan on hauling or towing I have a new plan. The z18et manifold will fit the ka and with a little porting. I hope this will keep the turbo close enough to the block that it won't hit the steering. That way I won't have to run a top mount and I can keep my brake booster. I do think mine is fucked up, I'm going to let Kevin drive it and see what he thinks. I will keep you posted on the progress I make. Almost forgot about the supercharger, I was thinking about it. The cost is so much more I don't really want to spend 2k for a supercharger. I can get a turbo for cheap. I'm still not 100% decided either way, if a super charger comes up for a decent deal I might just grab it up :D Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted March 3, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2007 Wow I just looked up the xterra supercharger, they are cheap. Kinda big though....hhhmm I see what you are saying. Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted March 4, 2007 Report Share Posted March 4, 2007 You might also be abl to relocate the booster a bit with a little fabrication... airedout relocated his clutch master...and on older broncos the master and booster are at an angle to the firewall...then again manual brakes have been around as long as brakes and don't require any power robbing (vaccum changing) help Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted March 4, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2007 2eDeYe;3140']You might also be abl to relocate the booster a bit with a little fabrication... airedout relocated his clutch master...and on older broncos the master and booster are at an angle to the firewall...then again manual brakes have been around as long as brakes and don't require any power robbing (vaccum changing) help Thanks Steve that is exactly what I was saying, If I changed the master I could still haul stuff and stop fine. It all comes down to math :D My 510 stops great from 100+ why couldn't my truck it doesn't weight that much more. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 4, 2007 Report Share Posted March 4, 2007 2eDeYe;3140']You might also be abl to relocate the booster a bit with a little fabrication... airedout relocated his clutch master...and on older broncos the master and booster are at an angle to the firewall...then again manual brakes have been around as long as brakes and don't require any power robbing (vaccum changing) help I've never heard or thought that they rob power. The booster is connected to the manifold vacuum and being air tight just goes along for the ride. This vacuum is applied equally on both sides of a large diaphram. That is untill you step on the brakes, and one side is vented to outside air pressure which causes the other to sucked in the opposite direction squeezing the pushrod on the M/C. As soon as the break is released the vacuum is quickly re-applied to both sides of the diaphram (faster than you can get your foot off the brake, and on the gas) and equlibrium is restored and brakes released. I used to think power assisted brakes were for pussys. But now I take advantage of any help to get me stopped. As I said to jeff, you have to be prepaired for that one day when you are driving with a couiple of engine blocks in the back and pulling a friend's loaded trailer full of parts, going down hill with your g/f in the front and some wanker pulls out in front of you. Think of the Boy Scout's motto. Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted March 4, 2007 Report Share Posted March 4, 2007 The robbing power thing is from a wheelers point of view... Sit at a stop with the engine running and pump your power brakes...Your idle will bog down...Something that's kept me from boosting my CJ's brakes which stop quite nicely...power steering will do the same thing, but I'm not taking that out of my jeep ;) Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 5, 2007 Report Share Posted March 5, 2007 Never noticed it on stock trucks/cars, I'll try it on my 620. lol Did the truck that did this have a big duration cam? It would have a low manifold vacuum that might be affected by the draw from a booster? Could the booster be faulty? (not trying to be difficult, just not aware of this) P/S understood. I've stalled a few with it. Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted March 5, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2007 Yeah you guys don't have to worry the turbo is still a ways off. Quote Link to comment
wiwawy Posted March 5, 2007 Report Share Posted March 5, 2007 heres a link to a post about the sc ka in a 720 he has some pics as well http://groups.msn.com/NissanDatsun720PickupOwners/engineswapping.msnw?action=get_message&mview=0&ID_Message=20373&LastModified=4675608106590384937 Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted March 6, 2007 Report Share Posted March 6, 2007 It was a 1980 Datsun Kingcab stock L20B and the brakes worked excellent... The booster uses vaccum from the engine so it would work on any power brake setup (w/a booster)...that said you could use a hydraulic booster to save space as well. Quote Link to comment
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