IGN Light: When should it be on?

[KFunk740]

So, the IGN light (Ignition, I presume). When is it supposed to be activated?

 

In the past, I believe mine turned on when I turned the key and the starter was spinning, then shut off when the engine was running. Tonight as I was starting my drive home, I noticed it was lit up. I pulled over to see if I could find any problems under the hood, and all seemed OK that I could see. So, I drove it the rest of the 45 minutes home with the light on.

 

It seems like all systems are go, so there's no obvious problems with the ignition system. Perhaps it just indicates that the ignition is on, so maybe it was supposed to be on all the time anyways, and it was actually messed up before? Or is there some problem or loose wire that I don't know about?

It's a '65 L320 with J13 swap, negative ground, etc.

 

Thanks for the help,

Kevin

[Laecaon]

Supposed to be a battery light. As in your battery is not getting charged/not keeping a charge. Could be a alternator or battery going out (voltage regulator as well), or it is nothing. My friends is on 100% of the time. Mine is only on for like 2 seconds after startup, or when ignition is on but motor is not running.

[metalmonkey47]

Mine is never on.

 

 

 

 

Ever.

 

 

 

 

 

Period.

[Laecaon]

Mine is never on.

 

 

 

 

Ever.

 

 

 

 

 

Period.

 

Probably not hooked up.

[wayno]

My light on my 521 is on when I turn the key on, after I start it, it almost goes off, but not quite, it also blinks brighter when the turn signal is on.

When it is sunny out, I can't even see it.

But I beleave when the engine is running, it should be off, completely.

BTW, my starter don't turn over like it used to, hmmmmmmm.

[ggzilla]

the IGN light (Ignition, I presume). When is it supposed to be activated?

Yes, on a 320 there is an OIL light and an IGN light.

The IGN light is for the generator. It is supposed to come on with KEY ON, ENGINE OFF. Once the engine is running, the light should go out.

 

Get out a voltmeter and with engine idling, check the voltage at the battery. Rev the engine to 1850 RPM and verify the Voltage is at least 13.5 volts. That's good. Under 13.5 means undercharging.

 

With a generator, an ammeter is a useful too. The factory 320 Service Manual goes into detail on using an ammeter to test the generator/voltage regulator.

[KFunk740]

Hmmmm, both the voltage regulator and battery are nearly new. I'll double-check with the multimeter, but I'm voting for loose connection somewhere right now.

[KFunk740]

Well, poop.

 

So, I still have 12.4V on the battery, even after driving it home 45 minutes with headlights on and the ignition light on, and starting it twice last night. It is a new Duralast Gold battery though, which still started the truck after I left the headlights on all day a couple days ago.

 

But, I can't seem to get over 12V at idle or when I rev it. Alternator is either not charging or lost a connection, but nothing obvious. Got it hooked to trickle charger right now to make sure battery is good. May have to do that off and on all weekend if Autozone can't get me an alternator. I've got to use the truck for moving to a new house this weekend.....yay.

[datzenmike]

Very simply put, one side of the lamp goes to the positive of the battery. The other side goes to the charge output of the alternator. If the alternator is charging there will be approximately 12 volts on both sides and the lamp will be off. If the alternator isn't charging there will be current flow from the battery toward the alternator and the lamp will light. Any time there is a large difference between the voltages on either side of the lamp, current will flow and the lamp will light. A few volts probably won't be bright enough.

 

 

Hmmmm, both the voltage regulator and battery are nearly new. I'll double-check with the multimeter, but I'm voting for loose connection somewhere right now.

 

New parts are the first suspect.

[KFunk740]

Very simply put, one side of the lamp goes to the positive of the battery. The other side goes to the charge output of the alternator. If the alternator is charging there will be approximately 12 volts on both sides and the lamp will be off. If the alternator isn't charging there will be current flow from the battery toward the alternator and the lamp will light. Any time there is a large difference between the voltages on either side of the lamp, current will flow and the lamp will light. A few volts probably won't be bright enough.

 

 

 

 

New parts are the first suspect.

 

Thanks much for the help.

 

So, could the voltage regulator malfunction and prevent full charge from getting from the alternator to the battery?

 

Sometime today I'll try to see if I can get a better reading of voltage as its leaving the alternator (couldn't get clear reading this morning when I tried). If it's 14V or over, but only 12V on the other side of VR, then I suppose I'll get yet another VR....

[ggzilla]

320s did not come with an alternator, but use a generator. The workings are slightly different.

 

Has someone retro-fitted an alternator to yours?

 

 

If it's 14V or over, but only 12V on the other side of VR

If that's the case, it is a wiring problem. The VR doesn't take high voltage and convert it lower. Instead it signals the alternator (or generator) to output lower.

[datsunaholic]

Also, on a 320 IF it's still all stock it's Positive Ground, so things don't necessarily work right if someone has done a Neg-ground conversion.

[Tristin]

My ignition light flashes when the car is running... and then flashes faster if RPMS increase. Once I turn the lights on, the lights turns off.

[KFunk740]

As I said originally, it is negative ground (with alternator). I checked the voltage at the white/red stripe wire that comes out of my alternator, while revving it. It goes to 12.2 V max. However, I did that when I was thinking that it takes that 14V and steps it down...

 

Where would I go next to diagnose? Pull alternator and take it to shop for testing? Most of my wiring looks clean and new, and I've been driving truck for 8K miles. However, I know there is potential ofr mistakes when PO converted to body negative.

 

I'm having trouble locating an alternator locally (looking as precaution). I can get a VR if I ask autozone to order it.

 

 

My alternator seems to shaped like an AC Delco 334-1546 ('67 411 with J13), but haven't found a local shop that can cross-reference it. Trying to find one locally quick since I have a ton of moving that needs done this weekend. Instead, I'll probably just charge it between every 15 mile trip....

[ggzilla]

Yes, looks like a 411 alternator.

 

Datsun 720 with internal regulator 35A will fit, the one you have now is probably 30A. Easy two-wire hookup, it just need BAT to battery +, and S terminal to IGN lamp and doesn't use the external regulator (IGN lamp wire comes out in the existing VR connector)

 

$50 at Oreilly auto and includes the regulator (I/R) (has S-L connector on back). Note that the 50/60A units won't fit where the little 30/35A units go.

[KFunk740]

Yes, looks like a 411 alternator.

 

Datsun 720 with internal regulator 35A will fit, the one you have now is probably 30A. Easy two-wire hookup, it just need BAT to battery +, and S terminal to IGN lamp and doesn't use the external regulator (IGN lamp wire comes out in the existing VR connector)

 

$50 at Oreilly auto and includes the regulator (I/R) (has S-L connector on back). Note that the 50/60A units won't fit where the little 30/35A units go.

 

That 720 one, and all others I can find, have 2 ears at the bottom. Mine does not, mine looks like the one I pasted above. I don't think I can shove one of those 720 alts into my bracket.... or are the dimensions such that each ear just goes behind the respective tabs on my bracket?

[Tristin]

You can shove anything there with a little lube...

[nismo dr]

[KFunk740]

.... or are the dimensions such that each ear just goes behind the respective tabs on my bracket?

 

apparently not, according to this post here: http://community.ratsun.net/topic/24710-411-folks-starter-alternator-questions/page__hl__%2B411+%2Balternator__fromsearch__1

 

Ran into a new issue with that alternator: The mounting ears are too close together - won't fit on the bracket.

 

Think I'll mod the bracket, though...

 

I'm not interested in bending/rigging up my bracket.. had cars in the past with alternators that weren't aligned quite perfect, and changed too many belts on the side of the road.

[ggzilla]

> The mounting ears are too close together - won't fit on the bracket.

Sorry, I didn't realize that. I wonder how guys make it work, a lot of guys have used the newer style (two mounting ears). Probably use precision washers to make up the difference.

 

But anyways a 411 alternator is not hard to find.

 

 

But do you need a regulator or alternator? Test it. Hot the F wire and see if the voltage goes up (usually to 16 or 17V, so just do it momentarily). If it does, the alternator is good. and the Regulator is not working.

[KFunk740]

> The mounting ears are too close together - won't fit on the bracket.

Sorry, I didn't realize that. I wonder how guys make it work, a lot of guys have used the newer style (two mounting ears). Probably use precision washers to make up the difference.

 

But anyways a 411 alternator is not hard to find.

 

 

But do you need a regulator or alternator? Test it. Hot the F wire and see if the voltage goes up (usually to 16 or 17V, so just do it momentarily). If it does, the alternator is good. and the Regulator is not working.

 

I can find plenty of 411 alternators online, that's no problem, but I'm moving to a new house this weekend and need to use the truck for hauling. No local stores can find one in their system.

 

Yes, I still want to verify that I actually need one, but didn't know the procedure.

 

Which one is the 'F wire?'

 

If its really the regulator, then Autozone can order one and get it soon. But if its the alternator, I'll just have to order online and wait.

 

I figure I'll just charge the truck every chance I get between trips this weekend. I've only got 15 miles back and forth to go...

[ggzilla]

I dunno which is the F wire, a 411 wiring diagram would help.

[KFunk740]

OK, I did it just like seen here:

 

I just ran some jumpers on plug, similar to a different pic I found.

 

IGN light still on, and 12.7V max is all. I even tried running a jumper cable from alt to ground, to make sure alt is grounded properly.

 

From the ghetto fix option, I'm considering temporarily swiping a BMW 320i alternator from my BMW 2002. It's 45A, IR, and similar shape. The bottom will fit between bracket ears perfectly, but I'm afraid it'll hit the cross-member that goes in front of the battery, since the ears are offset.

[KFunk740]

OK, Not quite as easy as I expected to locate a 411 alternator online. Seems like all common suppliers I'ved used before show them out of stock. There are plenty of weird no-name websites that claim to have them, but I don't believe it. Figure as soon as I order, it'll get cancelled by them.

[DanielC]

It might be possible to get your alternator rebuilt, locally. Start by asking at real auto parts stores. look for an independent store, and if you walk into one, and see lots of spoilers, and fart cannon mufflers for honda's, you probably are no in the right store.

 

You might have to look for a shop that specialises in auto electric repair, to fond a conncetion to a local shop that rebuilds your alternator, instead of buying a part remanufactured off shore.