Sierra Posted April 17, 2012 Report Share Posted April 17, 2012 I have a 1978 B210 Automatic and I been having the following issue/problem: After I drive the car for a while and I reach my destination I turn the ignition/key off and the car vibrates like if it was without gas and the engine light turns on and off a couple of times. Any ideas of what can be causing this issue? Quote Link to comment
erichwaslike Posted April 17, 2012 Report Share Posted April 17, 2012 timing is off. its dieseling. retard the timing a bit. put a light on it to be sure Quote Link to comment
RedBanner Posted April 17, 2012 Report Share Posted April 17, 2012 Anti dieseling/runnon siliniod, one wire to a o2 sensor tging on the front of your carb, its job is to stop runon/dieseling wich is the semptom you described Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 18, 2012 Report Share Posted April 18, 2012 Dieseling/run on causes... Idle set too high. Choke stuck on with idle set on fast idle cam. This will carbon up the cylinder and plug. The carbon will hold in heat and cause compression ignition. Idle cut solenoid disconnected/not working. Carb should make a clicking sound when you trun key on/off/on/off. Carb flooding will run rich and carbon up cylinder and plug. The carbon will hold in heat and cause compression ignition. A quick fix is to turn off in DRIVE to stall motor then put in PARK. This does not cure the problem. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted April 18, 2012 Report Share Posted April 18, 2012 All exactly right. Yet the B210 engine is prone to dieseling -- even when exactly in tune. This is due to the cylinder head design. And is why the factory fitted the anti-diesel valve to the carburetor. A previous owner may have removed the internal seat from the AD valve and so now it won't shut the engine off. You can unscrew the valve to check it out. Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted April 19, 2012 Report Share Posted April 19, 2012 FWIW, it's been my experience that when the anti-dieseling solenoid is not working, the car won't idle. If it idles okay, I'd be looking elsewhere, but that's me. :blush: Timing issues gets my vote. Or plugs that are the wrong heat range. Oh hell, who am I kidding? I'd just kill it in gear... :lol: Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted April 19, 2012 Report Share Posted April 19, 2012 You can remove the needle from the valve, and then it won't turn off the engine ... a previous owner could have done this. If the valve works, it won't run on, no matter what the other causes or misadjustments are. No fuel means no run-on. But if your idle is about 1000 RPM then all bets are off. Below 1000 RPM, the anti-diesel valve (if working) will stop the engine. Quote Link to comment
Sierra Posted April 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2012 Thanks everyone for all the great feedback. So I had some time to work on the timing. This was my first time measuring the timing on a car. So after watching some youtube videos and getting some pointers from my dad I finally figure it out. The car was past 20 degrees so I lower it to 10 degrees. The dieseling stopped so that was a really good thing. But now the car feels with no balls. When I am at a stoplight and I press the gas pedal it feels like it has an air bubble or something so I have to pre press the pedal in order to have a nice acceleration, and when I put it in reverse and press the gas some times it dies on me. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted April 19, 2012 Report Share Posted April 19, 2012 It sounds like your distributor vacuum advance is not working. That will advance the timing automatically. When it doesn't work, it's like retarded timing at low/moderate throttle openings. > I have to pre press the pedal in order to have a nice acceleration, Because advance is not needed under full throttle. Under part throttle the engine can use a lot more advance. Test your vacuum advance can on the side of the distributor. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 19, 2012 Report Share Posted April 19, 2012 Just in case it is idling too high and getting a vacuum signal it shouldn't, disconnect the vacuum advance hose and set the timing. Then hook the hose back up. Pull the cap off so you can see the rotor. Pull the vacuum advance hose off the carb end or put a hose on the vacuum advance on the distributor and suck on the end. The rotor should turn clockwise and hold and not slip back until you release it. While at it check the hose for cracks and leaks. Quote Link to comment
agentwright007 Posted May 23, 2012 Report Share Posted May 23, 2012 I have this problem with my car. I have a weber 32/36 installed and im pretty sure the anti-diesling solenoid is no longer active or attached. I suppose it's possible that my idle is set to high or maybe my timing is off. Could it be anything else? Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted May 23, 2012 Report Share Posted May 23, 2012 The car was past 20 degrees so I lower it to 10 degrees. The dieseling stopped Glad to hear you found the specific cause. Enjoy driving your datsun! Mike Says Dieseling/run on causes... Idle set too high. Choke stuck on with idle set on fast idle cam. This will carbon up the cylinder and plug. The carbon will hold in heat and cause compression ignition. Idle cut solenoid disconnected/not working. Carb should make a clicking sound when you trun key on/off/on/off. Carb flooding will run rich and carbon up cylinder and plug. The carbon will hold in heat and cause compression ignition. Quote Link to comment
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