Icehouse Posted April 28, 2008 Report Share Posted April 28, 2008 I was digging through my pile of parts in my moms barn, I've been slowing trying to move them into my shed at Franks. Anyways I realized I have everything to do a bag setup. Bags, pump, switches tank ect. I've been driving my truck for over and year and I'm sick of the axle hitting the frame!! As soon as I get my dime back on the road I'm going to do a bunch of work to my truck. My original plan was to do just a C notch but shit if I have all the air stuff I might as well bag the back. I like what Pacific Coast did, I would like to keep the bed "uncut" I wouldn't mind a small "box" for the pumpkin but thats about it. Has anyone else done it? any pics or opinions? I looked at a few "bolt in kits" on ebay and it looks like they all use a pan hard bar. Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted April 28, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2008 Hmmm I guess I will just go with it :D Quote Link to comment
makya Posted April 29, 2008 Report Share Posted April 29, 2008 you need a panhard or watts link to locate the rear if you're going with a ladder bar setup. Or you could run a 3link w/ a "Y" so that the top link locates the axle. Quote Link to comment
Pacific coast Datsun Posted April 29, 2008 Report Share Posted April 29, 2008 Jeff, any pics of the ladder bars you have? My setup is as basic as you can get. 2 link w support bar inbetween, C notch, bags behind axle, 3/8 valves, 1 compressor & a 5 gallon tank. If i had to do it over id go with a bigger notch. With 17 inch rims the frame lays out back & i get about 5 inches of lift. I know that snot alot but thats because the bags are behind the axle. Pics... Youll need to remove the brake line mount off of the axle [pass side] & move it up & over to clear the axle as it moves up. I also ran into a few small issues but nothing major. I say bag it, you have a welder & a few helpers :cool: Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted April 29, 2008 Report Share Posted April 29, 2008 Triangulated 4-link doesn't need a panhard bar. But I'm moving the gas tank. I know your not running one PAC, but I would run one with your radius/truck arm suspension as well. Of course, you may not drive like I do ;) Ice, do you have ladder bars yet? Pics? Quote Link to comment
BEEBANI Posted April 29, 2008 Report Share Posted April 29, 2008 Well, I say......full back half, triangulated 4-link, bags on bars and the full monty!:D Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted April 29, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2008 I was wondering where you guys went :D I haven't bought anything yet, I'm just really sick of the axle vs. frame. 35k + miles since the engine swap and I'm sick of it!!! My original idea was to just notch it and re ark the leafs. After finding all the bag stuff and always wanting a bagged truck I figured why not. After Canby of coarse, I just like to start planning early :D I hear what you are saying Bee, I just don't want to chop the bed to much. I don't really car if it doesn't "handle" that good, I drive like an old man :D I can't remember the last time I burned out in it haha. I've been checking out some used ladder bars on Ebay, to me its always nice to have something to start with. I need to get a new welder before I get started to.... Quote Link to comment
Pacific coast Datsun Posted April 29, 2008 Report Share Posted April 29, 2008 Jeff maybe just C notch it for now to eliminate the axle vs. frame battle while you save for another welder? if & when you "C" it make sure the C is not totally centered over the axle. Basically the axle will move forward as it moves up when the link bars are installed. With just leafs youd be ok but youd have to widen it later [i did on one of my bars] & some 4 letter words may come out...:D If you plan on running the stock rims the C will be pleny big, on mine i went overboard & plated the outside of the frame before i cut it out... I did my setup on a family budget, very basic but it works w/ no issues. Quote Link to comment
Guest DatsuNoob Posted April 30, 2008 Report Share Posted April 30, 2008 Hey Ice! If you know where to borrow a bottle of Argon ( I DONT use flux-core wire), you can come up to my place and use mine. I just bought a Lincoln pro-mig 140. Should do the trick, it welds up to 5/16" (or 5/8" if you weld both sides :D) thick which is plenty, I think. You could even park it here for a couple days if need be. Just a thought, I dont mind. Quote Link to comment
Guest DatsuNoob Posted April 30, 2008 Report Share Posted April 30, 2008 Forgot to include in the previous post. So, I've been thinking of a 4 link system for a while now too. Even bought a book and have been reading up on it. I see that many of the 620 guys run the upper trailing arms from the center of the diff at a 45* angle toward the front of the truck. What's the benefit to this setup, vs the traditional parallel trailing arm setup? Also seen coilovers mounted at the front pivot point vs on the axle, does anyone know how that works out? I want a 4 link but I'm not into bags (have a pair if anyone wants to trade something for em), I'm all about cornering with some good med/stiff suspension. Quote Link to comment
BEEBANI Posted April 30, 2008 Report Share Posted April 30, 2008 What kind of bags? I can talk to ya about triangulated vs. parallel bars. pm me. Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted April 30, 2008 Report Share Posted April 30, 2008 I see that many of the 620 guys run the upper trailing arms from the center of the diff at a 45* angle toward the front of the truck. What's the benefit to this setup, vs the traditional parallel trailing arm setup? A parallel 4-link requires a panhard bar to control the axle lateraly (side to side) Also seen coilovers mounted at the front pivot point vs on the axle, does anyone know how that works out? Guess I'd need to see a picture of that. Could be mounted on the lower bars or maybe a cantilever setup. I want a 4 link but I'm not into bags (have a pair if anyone wants to trade something for em), I'm all about cornering with some good med/stiff suspension. Triangulated 4-link is the way I'm going with mine. The links look like this XX when viewed from the top. I aslo plan to build adjustablity into the mounts to give me the ability to 'dial in' the suspension. Quote Link to comment
hacked521 Posted May 12, 2008 Report Share Posted May 12, 2008 you might have something allready made up but you could allways run a three link. Just do two lower bars and a wishbone up on top to locate the rear-end. Thats what i am running on my 521, its simple and to the point. However, if you were to go for handling i would deffinately go for a triangulated 4link. I didnt do a triangulated 4 link because i just cruise around and im never really in a rush to get anywhere. Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted May 12, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2008 you might have something allready made up but you could allways run a three link. Just do two lower bars and a wishbone up on top to locate the rear-end. Thats what i am running on my 521, its simple and to the point. However, if you were to go for handling i would deffinately go for a triangulated 4link. I didnt do a triangulated 4 link because i just cruise around and im never really in a rush to get anywhere. No I'm still thinking/planning I really don't know what to do. I've build enough cars to know any route is going to be ton's of work. I really just want it to be low and ride nice. I don't drive my truck hard, I just cruise :D Time will tell I guess. Thanks for the input :D I do like your truck, is it on the road yet? have I missed any updates? Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted May 12, 2008 Report Share Posted May 12, 2008 If it's just for cruising, I'd also say wishbone also. Less work involved as you won't have to relocate the fuel tank ;) Quote Link to comment
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