Docsis510 Posted May 6, 2012 Report Share Posted May 6, 2012 it was half off at the wrecking yards this weekend. i remembered this thread and went out looking for subaru rear shocks. found a realy good kyb from a 87 subaru sedan. paid 25 bucks for them and seems that they will work. i had to drill the bottom hole bigger so they would fit on the 510. check out the pics. 1 Quote Link to comment
Tristin Posted May 7, 2012 Report Share Posted May 7, 2012 Whats the coil sleeves from? Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted May 7, 2012 Report Share Posted May 7, 2012 and how are they held on 1 Quote Link to comment
paradoxx Posted May 7, 2012 Report Share Posted May 7, 2012 they are being held by the two bumps, under the GR-2 sticker and the o-ring on one of the pics, thats the same bump that stops for the lower spring retainer. I like both sets, extra easy to work with, no welding....almost plug and play. Quote Link to comment
Michael.flee92 Posted May 7, 2012 Report Share Posted May 7, 2012 it was half off at the wrecking yards this weekend. i remembered this thread and went out looking for subaru rear shocks. found a realy good kyb from a 87 subaru sedan. paid 25 bucks for them and seems that they will work. i had to drill the bottom hole bigger so they would fit on the 510. check out the pics. What springs* and coil over sleeves are you using? Quote Link to comment
Skib Posted May 7, 2012 Report Share Posted May 7, 2012 they are being held by the two bumps, under the GR-2 sticker and the o-ring on one of the pics, thats the same bump that stops for the lower spring retainer. I like both sets, extra easy to work with, no welding....almost plug and play. thats not going to hold your coil sleeve for terribly long :unsure: Quote Link to comment
71ka510 Posted May 7, 2012 Report Share Posted May 7, 2012 i agree, i have collar clamps on my gr-2's and they have moved over time, leaving the stock spring perch and getting the correct length spring would be the safer way to go...... Quote Link to comment
paradoxx Posted May 7, 2012 Report Share Posted May 7, 2012 thats not going to hold your coil sleeve for terribly long :unsure: you are right, if it goes thru a bit, it will go thru entirely... Quote Link to comment
Docsis510 Posted May 7, 2012 Report Share Posted May 7, 2012 the sleeves im using are two sizes on one sleeve. one side is 1 7/8 and the other side is 2 1/8. the bigger part of the sleeve goes though the shock but the small part gets stuck on the bumps. springs are 10" long 2.5 i.d. 250 pounds. if you dont have a sleeve like mine you can use the original shock ring with a 2" sleeve. 1 Quote Link to comment
paradoxx Posted May 7, 2012 Report Share Posted May 7, 2012 ok, all of my doubts have been resolved. :D thank you for sharing it!! Quote Link to comment
Michael.flee92 Posted May 8, 2012 Report Share Posted May 8, 2012 Does anyone know if these will work with ground control camber plates? If eventually wanna do negative camber in the rear. Quote Link to comment
71ka510 Posted May 8, 2012 Report Share Posted May 8, 2012 gc doesnt make a rear camber plate that i know of..they are for fronts ...... just lowering your dime will give you negative camber.. the lower , the more negative ( unless you slot your xmember) ...... but why would you want to add negative camber? unless you hate traction and tires...... jdm tight yo? Quote Link to comment
Creepy Cruiser Posted May 8, 2012 Report Share Posted May 8, 2012 Does anyone know if these will work with ground control camber plates? If eventually wanna do negative camber in the rear. Actually, the shock/spring, doesn't have anything to do with the camber in the rear of a 510. All that is controlled by the pivot points on the control arm itself. You would need to old school slot it (like mentioned), or add some adjusters to it, to fix the camber issues when riding super low. Quote Link to comment
freekwonder Posted May 8, 2012 Report Share Posted May 8, 2012 Did anybody grab measurements on the length of the strut at all? Hmm there is an '89 Subaru DL at the pullapart by me, wonder if it's rear struts would work. Quote Link to comment
71ka510 Posted May 8, 2012 Report Share Posted May 8, 2012 Actually, the shock/spring, doesn't have anything to do with the camber in the rear of a 510. All that is controlled by the pivot points on the control arm itself. You would need to old school slot it (like mentioned), or add some adjusters to it, to fix the camber issues when riding super low. thats what i was saying, but it sounds like he wants to run with negative camber, wear tires out and have no traction :( 1 Quote Link to comment
Michael.flee92 Posted May 8, 2012 Report Share Posted May 8, 2012 thats what i was saying, but it sounds like he wants to run with negative camber, wear tires out and have no traction :( Howd you know? Lol I just wanted some insight. Thanks. Guess I'll get the adjusters or keep buying tires :D Quote Link to comment
71ka510 Posted May 9, 2012 Report Share Posted May 9, 2012 read up on penultimate rear crossmember, slotted crossmember, or mad dats adjustable rear...... slotting is easiest..... Quote Link to comment
Uber Deaf One Posted May 9, 2012 Report Share Posted May 9, 2012 read up on penultimate rear crossmember, slotted crossmember, or mad dats adjustable rear...... slotting is easiest..... The hell it is lol, slotting crossmembers is such a pain in the ass... it's easier to drop $300 on Byron's brackets and weld those on ;) They work better too lol, my rear alignment kept moving during aggressive driving... so I tack welded the washers and 6 months later I found out 2 of those tacks snapped! Quote Link to comment
Michael.flee92 Posted May 10, 2012 Report Share Posted May 10, 2012 I was thinking of going with futofabs rear xmember brackets. i know there is a write up somewhere on here, just cant seem to find it. Quote Link to comment
Uber Deaf One Posted May 10, 2012 Report Share Posted May 10, 2012 I was thinking of going with futofabs rear xmember brackets. i know there is a write up somewhere on here, just cant seem to find it. Those are Byron's brackets ;) And they come with instructions. I'm doing mine real soon here... I suppose I can snap some pics and whatnot along the way. Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted May 10, 2012 Report Share Posted May 10, 2012 The hell it is lol, slotting crossmembers is such a pain in the ass... it's easier to drop $300 on Byron's brackets and weld those on ;) They work better too lol, my rear alignment kept moving during aggressive driving... so I tack welded the washers and 6 months later I found out 2 of those tacks snapped! what are you using to slot it a file? with the right tools its easy Quote Link to comment
Michael.flee92 Posted May 10, 2012 Report Share Posted May 10, 2012 Those are Byron's brackets ;) And they come with instructions. I'm doing mine real soon here... I suppose I can snap some pics and whatnot along the way. Oh are they? didnt know that. Let me know how it goes for you! And man do i love pics! Quote Link to comment
Dime Dave Posted May 10, 2012 Report Share Posted May 10, 2012 Oh are they? didnt know that. Let me know how it goes for you! And man do i love pics! Yup, the camber/toe brackets from FutoFab are indeed Byron’s (why reinvent what works). We purchase multiple bracket kits from Byron and offer them at the same price he sells them for. They can be ordered on-line at: http://www.futofab.c...id=22&Itemid=22 PayPal or credit card accepted. Here are the installation instructions Link: http://www3.telus.ne...rsports_003.htm Quote Link to comment
Michael.flee92 Posted May 10, 2012 Report Share Posted May 10, 2012 Yup, the camber/toe brackets from FutoFab are indeed Byron’s (why reinvent what works). We purchase multiple bracket kits from Byron and offer them at the same price he sells them for. They can be ordered on-line at: http://www.futofab.c...id=22&Itemid=22 PayPal or credit card accepted. Here are the installation instructions Link: http://www3.telus.ne...rsports_003.htm Awesome thanks! Quote Link to comment
71ka510 Posted May 11, 2012 Report Share Posted May 11, 2012 The hell it is lol, slotting crossmembers is such a pain in the ass... it's easier to drop $300 on Byron's brackets and weld those on ;) They work better too lol, my rear alignment kept moving during aggressive driving... so I tack welded the washers and 6 months later I found out 2 of those tacks snapped! for those that do not weld, it is easier. took me about 3 hours, and thats with taking the entire rear end off the car.. on the car, about half the time.... i "tacked" my washers too..... after 2 years of auto xing, and drag racing, still in the same spot.... i have seen byrons, but i was still trying to figure out what keeps them from moving..... seems the same as slotting, just smoother adjustment, datsport has a lock bolt ......... i am working on my own kit.... but for those with low funds, is why i suggested slotting....... Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.