carbed ka24e

[b210in]

has anyone ever done a carbed ka24e using the throttle body intake from a nissan truck and converting it to carb? i have seen some ka24e's with sidedrafts but never one adapting this intake. is it even possible?

[pope_face]

No idea on converting the truck intake, but the sidedraft intakes are aftermarket. I was considering doing this myself, so I was looking into the intake and dual Webers. But, anything can be done if you've got enough time/money. If you're handy with a welder, I'd say the easiest way to do it would be to ignore the stock intake and just get a stock intake gasket... take it to a fab shop, have them trace it onto a sheet of steel, and then cut it out. Weld up some runners, then find a carb adaptor for whatever you want to use and weld that on. Bolt your carb on, and you're set to go.

 

But... remember that the KA is electronically controlled, so when you get rid of the fuel injection you may have to fab a custom distributor. But, I could be wrong... the reason I wanted a carbed KA was to completely eliminate the computer controller, so if you're keeping the controller you may be able to use the stock ignition system.

 

I think if you're going to go through all that trouble, you may as well go with ITBs.

[b210in]

the ignition is the easy part, megajolt and you are good to go. the point of using the truck intake is to keep the swap on the low buck. i was thinking of how the guys at "experimental engineering" convert a throttle body intake from a hard body vg30e by just welding a alumnimum carb spacer. it would be very simple to do the samething to the ka24e truck intake and use a two or four barrel carb. i have not seen this anywhere, however.

[pope_face]

Mmm, I suppose you're right... I've never taken a look at a stock hardbody intake, so I've got no idea how it looks. You'd probably have to create block-off plates for the injectors though. The other thing you have to consider is the height of the setup... I know that if I went with sidedrafts in my truck they wouldn't clear the hood... I'd have to modify the hood to get it to close. A downdraft setup would likely have even less clearance, especially once you try to mount a filter. Just something else to keep in mind.

 

Is the stock intake aluminium, or steel? You'd have to get a carb spacer of the same material... wouldn't you need a 90 degree elbow as well?

[b210in]

check this out, the intake looks like an l20b two barrel carb intake but on the other side. it's a tbi design so it does not require individual injectors and it's aluminum. as far as the height, ya it would probably be a little too tall. hood scoop anybody?

[pope_face]

Mmm, sounds like you could get away with it. To be honest I know very little about fuel injection, so I didn't realize you didn't need individual injectors. I had just assumed that each cylinder had its own injector.

 

A hood scoop would be cool, but I'm not too much of a fan of tall scoops, so I'd go just high enough to clear the filter, and I'd get the shortest filter I could find. But, all that is personal preferance.

[datzenmike]

An injector for each runner would make it multi port injection whereas a throttle body is much like a carb but with two large injectors inside feeding into a common manifold then into individual runners.

 

I've seen one truck set up that has multi port injection but a vertical throttle valve in place of a carb. I'll get a picture this week end.

BTW the throttle body bolt pattern is weird and no carb will bolt directly on. You would need an adapter. I don't know if there's room to fit a 4bbl on the narrow manifold. Maybe a 500cfm Holly 2 bbl?

 

Pope's idea about making a manifold would be a lot of work as there's maybe an individual water passage up each runner. There is definitely one alongside the #1 runner from the head and has the thermostat on it.

[datsunfreak]

the ignition is the easy part, megajolt and you are good to go.

 

Why do that when you can just use an L20b distributor? ;)

 

the point of using the truck intake is to keep the swap on the low buck.

 

See above. :D

 

FWIW, I looked at doing this about 8 years ago and the general consensus is that it wouldn't work because the truck intake runners flow "uphill". With a carb, at idle it's going to puddle fuel at the base of the intake, then when you take off it will stumble badly, or worse pop back through the carb and set stuff on fire. :eek:

 

It might work, but I didn't want to find out the answer the hard way. ;)

[b210in]

Why do that when you can just use an L20b distributor? ;)

 

 

 

See above. :D

 

FWIW, I looked at doing this about 8 years ago and the general consensus is that it wouldn't work because the truck intake runners flow "uphill". With a carb, at idle it's going to puddle fuel at the base of the intake, then when you take off it will stumble badly, or worse pop back through the carb and set stuff on fire. :eek:

 

It might work, but I didn't want to find out the answer the hard way. ;)

 

cool. i knew someone else would have thought of this. i never knew that an l20b dizzy would bolt right in.

[datsunfreak]

i never knew that an l20b dizzy would bolt right in.

 

I didn't say it "bolts right in". ;)

 

But it is pretty easy to do...

 

 

1. Remove the oil pump (or timing cover).

 

2. Remove the stock KA24E oil pump drive shaft.

 

3. Replace it with an L20b oil pump drive shaft.

 

4. Replace the oil pump (or timing cover).

 

That handles driving the L20B dizzy, now to make it bolt up...

 

 

1. You need to drill and tap two new holes in the timing cover (it can be done on the engine, but taking the cover off is easier, which is why I mentioned taking off the cover above).

 

2. Bolt the L20b distributor "stand" on the KA24E timing cover using the two new bolts holes you just made.

 

3. Install the L20b distributor and set timing accordingly.

 

4. Have some fun. :D

[datsunfreak]

Also, if you know a good aluminum welder, and you are willing to take off the timing cover, you can just have the L20b dizzy stand welded to the KA24E timing cover instead of drilling and tapping it.

 

Done it both ways, Worked about the same both ways, but the welding is a little easier and there's less chance of it leaking.

[socaldatsun]

does any one have pictures of the l20 oil pump and distributor swap. does the oil pump bolt up or it has to be modified aswell? and this has been proven to work?

[Farmer Joe]

holy thread resurrection... 

 

to use the L-series dist on the KA:

 

drop the oil pump, get rid of the KA dist drive, and replace with the L20b piece. youll have to put the L20 drive in the same way the KA cme out. 

 

its best to do this at TDC, so you can set the dist drive at 11:28. 

 

youll have to drill and tap 2 holes in the timing cover, so the L-series distributor pedestal will stay secure. 

 

time like a L-series after install. 

[socaldatsun]

I got all of that but seems too easy to work lol

any one have a spare oilpump shaft and distributor? :P

where does the vacuum advance hose go hooked up to on the manifold?

[socaldatsun]

so after doing the research,wouldn't i be able to use the ka oil pump? People are swapping out the L for a Ka pump for higher oil pressure, why not use the stock ka on a ka and swap out the dizzy and rod. not sure if that made sense.I have no issue running the L pump.I have read somewhere that all Lseries oil pump and Oil/dizzy shafts are the same can some one tell me if thats true or not and if some one has a electronic distributor from an L for sell let me know.

the reason i wanna go with the L route is to eliminate the ECU completely.

[Farmer Joe]

did say you wont use the KA oil pump. 

 

people with L motors will put a KA oil pump on it for more pressure and volume. 

 

when you convert a KA to use L parts, you keep the KA pump.. you can then use any L-series dist you want. 

 

the KA vs the L-series distributor drives are different, along with some other variants. 

[socaldatsun]

i dont mind using the L series stuff just wondering why you want less oil pressure.

but from what i understand i;ll use the Ka pump,L shaft and L dizzy?

the L shaft fits the Ka pump

[socaldatsun]

last question too. can i use any shaft off a L16-l20?

[Farmer Joe]

i think an L20 dist drive is the only one im sure of. the l16-18 are shorter and wont work.

 

there might be a chance a z22 dist drive might work, but im unsure on the end where it meshes with the dist.

[socaldatsun]

what fuel pump would you recommend? i was thinking on using one of the L series mechanical pump. I dont want an electric one just cause i wanna eliminate as many wires as posible

would a L20B pump work?

[Farmer Joe]

dunno...

 

ive always had an electric fuel pump.. its 2 wires to hook one up...

 

the KAe head has a boss cast into it for a mechanical fuel pump, but its closed so you have to cut a hole out for it. and then you have to put the eccentric on the cam.

[socaldatsun]

yeah i figured it would be easier to go electric.