a2lowvw Posted May 13, 2012 Report Share Posted May 13, 2012 just got my kingpin set and it is missing one of the king pins. has all the other parts... doh Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted May 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2012 Where did you get it from? Quote Link to comment
a2lowvw Posted May 13, 2012 Report Share Posted May 13, 2012 ebay....its a moog box but everything was wrapped in datsun paper Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted May 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2012 I've bought at least 4 or 5 kits over the years and I've never had a problem with missing parts. Quote Link to comment
ohmrchristopher Posted May 16, 2012 Report Share Posted May 16, 2012 My adjustable reamer just showed up from Enco, that was less then a week for shipping!! I will be doing my king pins this weekend!! But I am going to post a picture of my king pin kit because my hardware is wayyyy different they what you have been using. Quote Link to comment
ohmrchristopher Posted May 19, 2012 Report Share Posted May 19, 2012 Help!! So I just pushed in my new bushings, grabbed the new pin to see how much I need to ream and the pin slides in the upper bushing, on one spindle, without reaming!! The lower bushings are too tight for the pin (will need to be reamed) and one of the upper ones is too tight (also needs to be reamed) I dont know what to do next?? Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted May 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2012 Where's the picture? It might have helped to actually post that up before you got started just in case you actually had the wrong hardware. How easily did the bushing push into the spindle? If the spindle hole was oversized, it wouldn't squeeze the bushing enough. When the pin slides in, is it sloppy loose or does it just slide in? Just how worn out was the original stuff? If the upper hole was wallowed out by the kingpin, your spindles may not have been rebuildable. Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted May 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2012 When you start reaming, make sure you only adjust your reamer about a half a turn on the nuts each time, otherwise you could overshoot your target diameter. Quote Link to comment
ohmrchristopher Posted May 19, 2012 Report Share Posted May 19, 2012 New hardware matched old. Everything was a tight push. I made sure to sneak up slowly with the reamer. Cutting was pretty chattering but I took my time. One pin slides in smooth with just a bit of squeeze. The other one (loose upper) I made a tad snug. There wasn't much of the grease channels left though which was odd. Did a quick test fit on truck and there is no noticeable play, before there was a lot. Quote Link to comment
ohmrchristopher Posted May 19, 2012 Report Share Posted May 19, 2012 New hardware matched old. Everything was a tight push. I made sure to sneak up slowly with the reamer. Cutting was pretty chattering but I took my time. One pin slides in smooth with just a bit of squeeze. The other one (loose upper) I made a tad snug. There wasn't much of the grease channels left though which was odd. Did a quick test fit on truck and there is no noticeable play, before there was a lot. Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted May 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2012 The only way to make it better would be to do another set of bushings......but since these are way better....I'd run these until you have to change them again. Might as well get some use out of them. You can probably just change them on the truck next time since they won't have 20-30 years of abuse. Quote Link to comment
ohmrchristopher Posted May 20, 2012 Report Share Posted May 20, 2012 My thoughts exactly. Not too worried as everything has a "press" fit to it ill just keep up my greasing. Quote Link to comment
ohmrchristopher Posted May 22, 2012 Report Share Posted May 22, 2012 My king pin kit. Upper bushing (thicker), lower bushing (thinner), upper grease cap (hole), lower grease cap (rubber covered metal bushing w/ relief hole in bottom), grease seal/dust ring (sits undernear upper bushing in spindle), lock pin, o-ring (sits on bottom of dog bone, on top bearing), grease release fitting (screws into upper cap) Untitled by NickedKnuckles, on Flickr More on my build thread, but you get the idea. Much different then the 510 kit. Quote Link to comment
ohmrchristopher Posted May 22, 2012 Report Share Posted May 22, 2012 The only other issue I ran in to was the shims had worn a grove into the spindle, thus the edge diameter was tighter then the inside (closer to the king pin). So I too the two thicker shims, sandwiched the thinner one and tapped the shims into the assembly with a drift. Kinda guerilla work but it got results. Also, trying to keep the o-ring stuck to the dog bone, slide in the bearing and man handle the spindle was tedious. I ended up pushing the first o-ring into the bottom on the assembly and cutting it in half. So be warry of pushing the king pin in with everything on the dog bone. Quote Link to comment
a2lowvw Posted June 3, 2012 Report Share Posted June 3, 2012 this is what my day started with with a little work it was more like this and after a test fit it looked like this before and after bolt used was 5/16 stainless easy way to replace a damaged lower link lock pin 1 Quote Link to comment
BenJammin Posted June 17, 2012 Report Share Posted June 17, 2012 Here's a pic of the lower fulcrum lock pins I had made at a machine shop. The second pic is an attempt to show how the bevel angles are correct by aligning one of the new ones with an original. These were made from the proper grade of hardened steel as per the machine shop's recommendation. Original is the darker one second from left. EDIT: If anyone needs a set of these, let me know with a PM. I would like to get at least 3 ~ 5 people in line because the shop would prefer to do batches of 10 sets or more to make it worth their while for setup. Thanks. Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted June 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2012 Sweet. thanks! Quote Link to comment
oldskoolvws Posted October 4, 2012 Report Share Posted October 4, 2012 Ok my 2 cents. Do you have to keep the shim pack together? Could you not put one shim on the top, it would get grease and prevent the metal on metal wear of spindle/dog bone, then have the rest of the shims on the bottom with the bearing? The shims are sacrificial in the whole scheme of things, and I also believe that with proper greasing you can have the metal on metal contact and be OK. But for those nit-pick anal guys who are afraid of their spindle/dog bone eating each other I think you could put a single shim at the top and be OK. This is my learned assembly process from my Uncle and apprenticeship from about 25 years ago. The upper "shim" is actually the wear ring or the thrust washer and the lower are considered the dimensional or make-up shims. Not sure what these shims are made of but it varies greatly from teflon to bronz to stainless to inconel in just about everything mechanical around us. The key is the shim is slightly softer than the other friction surface. Finally getting caught up in some things here since the Scirocco's in for paint. Awesomeness as usual Mike! Quote Link to comment
oldskoolvws Posted October 25, 2012 Report Share Posted October 25, 2012 Need some help. What is everyone using to replace the lower fulcrum pin seals, 54503-30000 (superseded 20500) ? Tried to order from nissanparts.cc, cancelled my order, NLA. Does anyone have some good ones for reference? Wondering if I need to cross breed across some other makes slightly. Quote Link to comment
oldskoolvws Posted October 25, 2012 Report Share Posted October 25, 2012 Supposedly, the 30000 number is just cork like the one shown here. You think and O-Ring will work? 1 Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted October 25, 2012 Report Share Posted October 25, 2012 ^ Now that is a beautiful sight. Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted October 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2012 Is that for a VW or something? All the 320's and 520's I've had used the cork. The 521 have a slightly different lip on the bottom of the dogbone to hold the rubber seal. I'd probably use a thick felt instead of the oring. Everything is greased(should be) so water should be an issue....you mainly just want to keep out dirt. I'd convert to ball joints ;) 1 Quote Link to comment
oldskoolvws Posted October 25, 2012 Report Share Posted October 25, 2012 @ MIKE: It's for an MG. Believe it or not, many some MG parts share our truck Datsun parts. Such as, when I put on my deluxe door panels, it had the original style holes for the metal male clips and the plastic cups. Pricing actual NOS Datsun replacements ran over $50 for just the number I needed. I used NOS MG ones and it was like $12 and I have extra's. Exact same parts. And you know my predicament with ball joints, the wheels I have won't allow it. Do you think if Mr. Klotz were to machine a few sets of gaskets out of UHMW it would keep out the dust? I'd buy it... If not, I got a line on something else too. I'll let you know if it pans out. Quote Link to comment
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