mklotz70 Posted April 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2012 That's actually been the plan from the start. It's a big reason I've been trying a couple of different methods. I was going to design a custom turned shaft that could be used to push them out and in, but that would have been pretty spendy compared to this method. I pressed them out when I did my wife's. Pressing them out...no prob......pressing them in.....it will work, but you can crunch a bushing quite easily!! I would use my air over hydraulic for pressing them out, but I'd put the handle in the pump and do it manually to put them back in. Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted May 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2012 A few pics of the ream I used this time. There's 3 vids of the reaming uploading right now, but I need to get to bed.....I'll add the links tonight. Quote Link to comment
datsunwizard Posted May 3, 2012 Report Share Posted May 3, 2012 Hey Mike, a quick tip; When using a reamer pack the flutes with Crisco or lard. This catches the cuttings between the flutes so that it doesn't recut and gives a nicer finish in the bore. I enjoy your how do's. 1 Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted May 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2012 Awesome tip! Will wheel bearing grease work? ....and Thanks! :) Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted May 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2012 Just for reference.....this is the best way to do it. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iw0-vPhRuCo I just talked with Don's Machine Shop here locally. The want $60 to do the reaming. I didn't get the chance to ask if they used a hone setup like the above video, or a long, piloted ream.....or just an adjustable ream like I'm using. This is just fyi for the guys that don't necessarily want to buy a one use tool or are simple not confident in doing it themselves. It gives a ball park idea of what to expect with one of their local shops. I'm tempted to see about having them do it if I can take video of it. :) Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted May 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2012 YEEHAW!! Just got off the phone again with Don's shop......they use a hone like the one in the vid above......AND....they're happy to let me video the process!!! So...I'm going to go spend the $60 to have the next set.....Wayno's set......honed. Sweet!! They're still together, so I just have to take them apart, press out the old, press in the new.....and the shop is about 3 miles from my house!! :) Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted May 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2012 Is there a way around being able to only post one or two vid links per post? Got everything prepped to take to the shop....just waiting for them to get back from lunch. Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted May 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2012 Couple pics of the Sunnen hone they used and Don't shop info. I forgot to ask if he does work via the mail, but now that you know what you're looking for, you can probably find a shop locally. If not, call Don and see. As you can see, the process is pretty quick and simple......but that has everything to do with having the right piece of equipment and an operator that has the skill and experience to make it look easy. 2 Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted May 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2012 More vids coming, but I'm trying to post at least a few pics as I go. The first two pics here are the bushing finish from the honing job done by Don's Machine Shop. Perfect. The second two are the finish left by the ream. You can see the vertical lines left by what is referred to as "chatter". The blade bites, tries cut deeper, it springs back when the chip breaks off......process repeats. If I had a spiral flute ream, it would leave a nicer finish. Honing is well worth the money :) The lock bolts didn't want to fit right. As pointed out previous by another poster, you want to clean these up a bit so that they fit right. If you watch the vids of the process, you'll see that, while working on them, I figured out that the lock bolt should fit through the hole just like the kingpin should fit the dog bone hole. Not sloppy loose, but you shouldn't have to hammer it through either. The biggest prob I had with getting the kingpin to fit in the dog bone hole was a burr arount the lock bolt hole. The worn down cutoff wheel worked awesome! I didn't need to grind anywhere else, just around the edge of that hole/slot. The fit of the lock bolt with the kingpin installed Top dust cap staked down. This is abnormal wear. I explain it more in the vids, but basically, I'll have to put the shims at the top position instead of under the bearing like I'd prefer. Something has to fill this recess or the edges will grind down and allow a lot of slop. This was created by a lack of lubrication! The shims get rusty and start grinding on the surface. Iron oxide(rust) is extremely hard....certainly harder than the cast steel of the dog bone!! Quote Link to comment
a2lowvw Posted May 6, 2012 Report Share Posted May 6, 2012 lots of good info here. thanks for the tips Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted May 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2012 Thanks. One of these days I'll figure out an easy way to edit vids and combine most of these :) Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted May 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2012 I think I'll have to load the rest in the morning....way too tired right now. Started fitting the lock bolt. Only one of the dog bones gave me much grief.....and that happened to be the one in the vid :( In the first two(3 spliced together), I say "I don't know" and "I'm not sure" a couple of times.......then in the third vid I pipe up and say "Iwas right!" lol ....but about what I have no idea!!! :) Quote Link to comment
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