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1973 620 - yellow turd


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What I would like to do:

 

H4 relay harness - self explanatory

 

E.I. distributor - Like this eBay one Thoughts?

 

Not a bad price, especially if it is new. Wonder where it was manufactured.

 

Bigger/modern alternator upgrade - with the new lights I fear this will tax my poor stock alt even more, especially with winter here. Running the lights, fan motor and wiper motor is just too much.

 

Saturn alternator or a 240SX alt are great options for upgrading, both swaps are pretty well documented as well. 

 

5 Speed!!!! - again self explained, but I cant seem to find and 280's in the JY. Anyone in Canada know where I can get one LMK!

 

Good luck in your search. :)

 

Rebuild the sick 1600, with a unknown 80,000 miles/ 128748 km, low compression in 3rd cylinder and an abundance of leaks. - A local Kook has 4 L20s, he wants $500 an engine. He sold me a rear axle w/ leafs for $400 but the axle was rusted through and he stripped off the drums to nothing. I don't really like dealing w/ him. What kind of "fun" can I have with the L16? I know a new one will preform a lot better than how it is now. I think I would just enjoy the torque from a L20? 

 

I would avoid that guy, sounds like a ripoff artist. Rebuilding the L16 is your best bet if you are having trouble finding an L20. You can always swap one in later when you come across a good deal. $500 for another motor in unknown condition will put a large dent in your rebuild budget.

 

Front discs via disc upgrade or ball joint swap - Now this one has me kind of stumped, do I just upgrade to a disc and keep the kingpin front end? How long till i have to rebuild them? Till parts run out? Or do I convert to a ball joint front end? That will automatically mean discs, and more options for shocks or spindles? Again parts in the JY are kind of scares, only one D21.

 

Kingpin kits are still available. Ball joints are a lot easier to service but don't last as long IMHO. You have all the pluses nailed for the ball joint swap, 1 D21 is more than no 720's :lol: 

 

The low look was fun for a while but seeing as I will be having a dirt bike in the back of the truck 80% of the time this summer, having the axle smash on the frame is not fun. Because of that I need to have the front higher to keep the truck looking level, I don't like the raked look, which gets me to thinking of just returning the truck to stock height and possibly running truck tires instead of car tires as I do not want to get a flat off-road. 

 

You could C-notch it instead of raising it, makes it easier to load motorcycles. :D

 

I'm rambling now, so I should stop. Looking forward to everyones input I know I have started a few random threads and bother a few of you for advice, but I will trying to keep everything more condensed in this thread instead.

 

 

:D

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QUOTE "Rebuild the sick 1600, with a unknown 80,000 miles/ 128748 km, low compression in 3rd cylinder and an abundance of leaks. - A local Kook has 4 L20s, he wants $500 an engine. He sold me a rear axle w/ leafs for $400 but the axle was rusted through and he stripped off the drums to nothing. I don't really like dealing w/ him. What kind of "fun" can I have with the L16? I know a new one will preform a lot better than how it is now. I think I would just enjoy the torque from a L20?"

 

If I had paid that much for a rear end and it ended up like you described I would not do business with him and I would lean on him for my money or a decent rear end. Hell you can buy a complete truck for $500.

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Z chopper you find me a 5 spd I would be stoked!

 

Would I gain anything by putting more money into the head as far as the rebuilding goes? It would be a complete rebuild but what I am getting at is the 1.6 head worth putting money into to swap onto a 2.0L or a Z block or does it flow poorly and hinder Preformance.

 

So is the ball-joint swap a personal preference or is it just easier to to do a disc conversion on a king pin? I honestly didn't mind rebuilding the kingpin and do have a good reamer because of it. I just don't wanna run outta parts.

 

C-notch, 4x4 springs, 4" blocks easy way out

But one day c-notch, bags :p

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Yeah I just don't have all the money in the world. I have a poorly running 1.6, I need to fix it before something bad happens. I'm just hoping to hold out till spring than I can start ridin my motorcycle. I actually live right near a engine shop.

 

I guess I could look for a z block, have that built up and then get the head fixed over a weekend?

 

My coworkers were/are all old Datsun racers back in the day. They all agree I should just rebuild the 1.6 and then could even get a custom cam ground for me. Probably more.

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Yeah I just don't have all the money in the world. I have a poorly running 1.6, I need to fix it before something bad happens. I'm just hoping to hold out till spring than I can start ridin my motorcycle. I actually live right near a engine shop.

 

I guess I could look for a z block, have that built up and then get the head fixed over a weekend?

 

My coworkers were/are all old Datsun racers back in the day. They all agree I should just rebuild the 1.6 and then could even get a custom cam ground for me. Probably more.

 

You can rebuild that motor for about the same price as that used motor from the kook.

 

Stop into the machine shop and explain what you are trying to accomplish (budget not performance) and they will probably be more than happy to help. I've yet to go to a machine shop that wasn't helpful. You never know they may even have a core there that can be built while you are still running the L16, stranger things have happened. 

 

Sounds like you got a couple of guys you can lean on for assembly help as well which will help nicely with the overall cost of the build. :)

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So when trying to run 80 watt low beams i kept blowing fuses, so naturally i just put a bigger fuse in, this of course means my switch overheated one night and de-soldered itself. Lets just say it was a fun drive in the dark with my head out the window back into town. I immediately ordered a quad headlight relay off SummitRacing. Should be here Monday.

 

I also picked up a L20!!  :thumbup: It came out of a 75 610 wagon. It has a U67 head, stock carb and a but load of emmisions crap. My L16 has a W58 head, I know the exhaust ports are different but I should be able to use the L16 intake right? 

 

Im gonna strip in down and take it to the machine shop to have them clean and inspect everything, then probably do a stock rebuild. nothing crazy.

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I also picked up a L20!!  :thumbup: It came out of a 75 610 wagon. It has a U67 head, stock carb and a but load of emmisions crap. My L16 has a W58 head, I know the exhaust ports are different but I should be able to use the L16 intake right?

There's half your problem right there. A W58 head has a larger combustion chamber than the stock 210 L16 head. Your compression will be 6.72 with the W-58 head on it.

 

Yes your L16 intake and exhaust will fit just fine.

 

U67 Head is a good head for a daily driver.  You will use the oil pan and oil pickup tube from the L16 truck motor also.

Only difference between U67 and W58 is the exhaust ports. One of these two will work, and you always have the other as back up.

 

The car oil pan won't work.

 

A stock L20B will have way more power than anything you can do to an L16. Roughly 20 hp more and loe speed torque.... ahhh the torque you will love!

 

I have a 31.5" 720 5 speed over here. Needs an L series front case for it. That would need changing and you would need a later shorter '74 an up front driveshaft from a 620 to fit it, or have yours shortened. Has a speedometer in it so, 2wd, and from a Z24 so it has the intermediate ratio gear set in it.

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The crank pulley bolt is turned counter clockwise as viewed from the front. Place a Johnson bar and 26mm? socket on it and brace the bar up against the passenger side frame rail. Be sure it secure and lined up and give the starter a bump.

 

About the oil pan. Trucks have steering and a cross brace across the front of the oil pan. Cars have the steering in the back. Use the truck pan and the oil pick up tube. 

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Negative. With engine laying on it's side, place socket and bar on the bolt and arrange so the bar is horizontal and to the left as you face the engine. The trick is to over power the bolt torque and loosen it by stepping down fast and hard with your foot. For god's sake use work boots. I've done this with sandals but only if very careful. Take several practice 'swings' and steady your balance against something. The trick is to use the engine compression and the inertia of the crank (and hopefully the flywheel) to hold it still while the bolt snaps loose. I've pulled at least a dozen pulleys off of installed or laying on the ground engines using this method.

 

To remove the pulley just use the 26mm socket and tap it forward on the back side and off the crank. Maybe 30-40 taps but it is moving slowly and will slide off. Watch for the woodruf keys on the crank and save them.

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Ha see this is where it gets fun. I already took off the flywheel and the head so I don't have much for resistance. It's hindsight 20/20.

 

But I am very skilled in the "kick" the wrench technique. I was trying to use a slim adjustable wrench but now I have the proper socket.

 

Back track I didn't look to see what hole on the cam sprocket the dowel was in. They are marked 2,3,4 I know it's not an issue and my Haynes manual will probably explain this too me.

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