Z chopper Posted April 22, 2014 Report Share Posted April 22, 2014 a yota pu rear should be an almost exact swap. There are 6 lug and 5 lug versions Quote Link to comment
ohmrchristopher Posted April 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2014 Yeah I'll get a 6 lug from a 3.0L. They are the bigger (diff/ring size) of the 90s trucks iirc. With back to my cooling issue, the radiator is the only OEM piece left. I've replaced everything else. I have cleaned the rad with CLR but I still suspect it's old and not very efficient. In the summer on the hottest days both upper and lower hoses are very hot to touch. The gauge will be steady in the middle. But compared to my Honda where the lower hose is cold. I can't help but think the rad could be a little more efficient at cooling?? Thoughts anyone? Quote Link to comment
Z chopper Posted April 22, 2014 Report Share Posted April 22, 2014 have you had your rad checked at a rad shop? Toyota 8inch read diff is the best choice as you can later install a supra LSD in it Quote Link to comment
ohmrchristopher Posted April 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2014 No. Ultra poor ATM, gimmi a week but that's a good idea. I don't think we have a specific rad shop. I would have to pick some generic place like Kal Tire or Canadian Tire. Quote Link to comment
Z chopper Posted April 22, 2014 Report Share Posted April 22, 2014 No. Ultra poor ATM, gimmi a week but that's a good idea. I don't think we have a specific rad shop. I would have to pick some generic place like Kal Tire or Canadian Tire. there used to be a rad shop in the Mission area and one not too far from Knox Mountain also. Quote Link to comment
ohmrchristopher Posted May 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2014 So I need an engine. I have a lead on a milled, cleaned, machined L20. I would just like to know where to start reading for an engine upgrade. I first read into swapping my L16 head on to the L20, because I read the L16 would rev higher/better then the L20. But most things I read stated the L16 head will just choke the L20 block. If all I have to do is rebuild the L20 for a quick peppy daily I'll do that. But there are also Z motor swap and Frankenstein turbo builds? I drive short trips in town in some times ridiculous stop-n-go traffic, loooong road trips up stupid high mountain passes, dump runs and hauling my motorcycle (500lbs). The L16, although tired, is actually able to move the truck pretty good. Im sure even rebuilding that would make for a good truck. I just know about this L20 thats ready to build. So what are your engines and some input? No swap talk (RB, KA, SR not till later) I am keeping it Nissan and as an L series or whatever this Z hybrid is. Quote Link to comment
Z chopper Posted May 20, 2014 Report Share Posted May 20, 2014 best boogie would be an LZ 2.2 hybrid, but the L20b is easier to swap in. Quote Link to comment
heretic Posted May 20, 2014 Report Share Posted May 20, 2014 I'm a fan of L20's, all though L18's are bad ass little motors. Any L16-18-20 built to stock spec & a single downdraft weber is reliable, fun to drive & will get decent gas mileage when/if you keep your foot out of it. I've no experience building or driving an LZ but in days past I have never had one spank my car/truck with a modest built L20. ESPECIALLY on the highway. 1 Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted May 20, 2014 Report Share Posted May 20, 2014 In the summer on the hottest days both upper and lower hoses are very hot to touch. The gauge will be steady in the middle. ... Thoughts anyone? That means it is working excellent. No worries. Dont fix what ain't broke. Quote Link to comment
jvb5577 Posted May 20, 2014 Report Share Posted May 20, 2014 I would go the LZ only if you have a Z block available. If not then just build up the L20b. I daily my LZ and it has given me no troubles. California heat, stop and go, hills, ect. Still running strong. The hard part about the Z block is finding a good one or just finding one at all. Get the Z22 for easy swap-ability. 1 Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted May 20, 2014 Report Share Posted May 20, 2014 What's so hard about finding one? I saw them in the wrecking yards every time I went last year. Or just call Rebello with your credit card ready. Quote Link to comment
ohmrchristopher Posted May 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2014 We dont have a lot of stock in our junkyards in Canada. I've been going to our local one for 10 years and I've only ever seen two 620s. Ive never seen a 720, except the one driving around town, the ONE. If Wiki is right the only place to find a Z block is a hardbody or a pathfinder and thats a Z24. I'll stick with the L20, as I already have a new Weber and want an easy drop in swap. Quote Link to comment
ohmrchristopher Posted May 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2014 That means it is working excellent. No worries. Dont fix what ain't broke. I was just double checking because on my Honda the lower hose is ICEY cold. Just a more efficient radiator I guess. 1 Quote Link to comment
Z chopper Posted May 21, 2014 Report Share Posted May 21, 2014 the Napz 2.2S came in 1981-1983 Datsun 720 Napz 2.2E came in 1981-1983 Datsun 200SX Quote Link to comment
5t341tH Posted June 12, 2014 Report Share Posted June 12, 2014 nice. how did you get all that sticky stuff off? DOOR CARDS! Clean door is clean Quote Link to comment
ohmrchristopher Posted June 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2014 nice. how did you get all that sticky stuff off? most just wiped off and anything left over brake cleaner/solvent took it off. Quote Link to comment
ohmrchristopher Posted January 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2015 Ok Happy New Year and all that, lets get to business! Day I got it First car show back home. JCCS in Vancouver BC Now a full time daily driver Fully loaded with my bike and hating it. Camping set-up. Removed 95% of the white primer "cow spots" Bringing home my new toy after its first test ride. Biggest snowfall in 30 years. 2 Quote Link to comment
ohmrchristopher Posted January 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2015 So Since getting the truck I have done the following: Interior Carpet New foam in bench seat back Custom chain shifter w/ Tomei long shift knob 720 centre console (currently out for more heat flow in winter) Nardi wheel using 720 ST hub LED dash lights, green Stainless steel glove box Aluminium door cards Broadway rear view mirror New shifter boots, heater core hoses, window felt, door rubber, window squeegeez. 1 Quote Link to comment
ohmrchristopher Posted January 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2015 Engine Wire tuck 32/36 Weber Exhaust w muffler Clutch soft line (still leaking somewhere) Heater core hoses, OEM nissan Valves, timing, points, advance and carb tuned as best I can to a sick engine 2 Quote Link to comment
ohmrchristopher Posted January 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2015 Exterior Removed shitty white primer > yellow > grey primer > body filler Raised for winter + make level w/ rear since returning rear leafs to stock (still on 3" tapered lowering blocks) 9007 outer, H1 inner headlamps w/ 80w/100w and 55w bulbs. Currently drawing too much amperage off the stock harness, 20A fuse temp fix. 3 Quote Link to comment
ohmrchristopher Posted January 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2015 What I would like to do: H4 relay harness - self explanatory E.I. distributor - Like this eBay one Thoughts? Bigger/modern alternator upgrade - with the new lights I fear this will tax my poor stock alt even more, especially with winter here. Running the lights, fan motor and wiper motor is just too much. 5 Speed!!!! - again self explained, but I cant seem to find and 280's in the JY. Anyone in Canada know where I can get one LMK! Rebuild the sick 1600, with a unknown 80,000 miles/ 128748 km, low compression in 3rd cylinder and an abundance of leaks. - A local Kook has 4 L20s, he wants $500 an engine. He sold me a rear axle w/ leafs for $400 but the axle was rusted through and he stripped off the drums to nothing. I don't really like dealing w/ him. What kind of "fun" can I have with the L16? I know a new one will preform a lot better than how it is now. I think I would just enjoy the torque from a L20? Front discs via disc upgrade or ball joint swap - Now this one has me kind of stumped, do I just upgrade to a disc and keep the kingpin front end? How long till i have to rebuild them? Till parts run out? Or do I convert to a ball joint front end? That will automatically mean discs, and more options for shocks or spindles? Again parts in the JY are kind of scares, only one D21. The low look was fun for a while but seeing as I will be having a dirt bike in the back of the truck 80% of the time this summer, having the axle smash on the frame is not fun. Because of that I need to have the front higher to keep the truck looking level, I don't like the raked look, which gets me to thinking of just returning the truck to stock height and possibly running truck tires instead of car tires as I do not want to get a flat off-road. I'm rambling now, so I should stop. Looking forward to everyones input I know I have started a few random threads and bother a few of you for advice, but I will trying to keep everything more condensed in this thread instead. 1 Quote Link to comment
hobospyder Posted January 12, 2015 Report Share Posted January 12, 2015 pm sent Quote Link to comment
Z chopper Posted January 12, 2015 Report Share Posted January 12, 2015 Biggest snowfall in 30 years. I remember snow falls like that and deeper when I was a kid, imagine halloween and being able to make snow tunnels that an adult could crawl through on hands and knees Quote Link to comment
Z chopper Posted January 12, 2015 Report Share Posted January 12, 2015 Now a full time daily driver is that near Richter St and Harvey Ave? Quote Link to comment
ohmrchristopher Posted January 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2015 Ha the snow picture was snapped 2 hrs after cleaning off the truck on my lunch. We got a 'record' 40cm. That is Gordon and K.L.O. Quote Link to comment
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