1973 620 - yellow turd

[Z chopper]

exactly if you don't skin your knuckles or trip on a part or drop a part on your foot  at least then you ain't doing it right

[ohmrchristopher]

So my headlight harness showed up. It's a H4 quad conversion.

 

My question is do I need the stock relay on the front clip? I assume not as this conversion has the flats now.

 

As for the "factory" plug aka the old headlight plug, rather then using that, can I wire the harness directly into the old harness for the relay signals. Off the high beam selector switch would be the wires I'm using right?

 

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html

 

There's a image about how this guy wired them off the high beam switch this is was I was asking about.

[ohmrchristopher]

Ok so the engine is all apart. I would like to drop the block, crank and maybe the head (it's still complete) off for a hot tank?

 

This would be my first engine rebuild and I would just like to make sure I am doing the right steps. I will have to do everything a section at a time (block/crank, head, machine flywheel eg)

 

I've been reading my Haynes and am good with measuring and doing all the work I'm just a little rusty on getting it going. No point cleaning the pistons or connecting rods 'cause I'll be getting new ones, right?

 

And on the parts, where do I go? eBay? Auto parts store? Fav car shop? When I lived in Vancouver I bought a lot of parts from rockauto 'cause it was a short drive but now I'm in Kelowna and don't have a US mailbox. Again looking for smart purchases not cheap.

 

ALLLLSO are there any company's not to buy? Don't wanna buy some crappy parts and have my rebuild go to shit.

 

Thanks.

[Charlie69]

Connecting rods on a stock engine are usually rebuilt by an engine rebuilding shop.  I takes a lot of specialty tools to rebuild an engine and it is quite expensive to buy these tools.  I would suggest finding a engine re-builder and have them do the rebuild.  That is unless you have all the tools required. this puts the job of locating the parts on the machine shop.  Problem with ebay is the parts are listed for to large of a range of vehicles and might not fit yours.

[ohmrchristopher]

Can anyone tell me about a '85 Nissan diesel truck transmission. There is one at the jy and I wanna know if it's worth pulling it.

 

Gear ratios and etc. going to be behind my l20b

[datzenmike]

The front case will not bolt to your L20B engine but a L series '71B 4 or 5 speed front case can be swapped onto to it to convert it.

 

The Diesel 5 speeds were all wide ratio. Same as the '79 620, '80 720 2wd and all year 720 4x4s.

 

1st... 3.592

2nd... 2.246

3rd... 1.415

4th... 1.000

5th... 0.882

 

Make sure it's a 5 speed as there were earlier 4 speeds used.

 

A 3.592 first with a 4.375 differential is pretty low gearing even for a truck. What you'll find is that you will feel the need to shift into second by the time your front wheels are half way into the intersection you were sitting at. I found this extra annoying when turning from a stop and having to interrupt to get into a better gear for accelerating. First revs very quickly and you can almost take off in second, or wish you could.

 

This 3.592 was used in the '79 truck with a 4.11 differential which is very close to the earlier 3.321 first with a 4.375 diff. The difference is later when in 4th or 5th as you have a lower revving engine on the highway for mileage.

 

Save that Diesel front case!!! It can be modified to fit an earlier Datsun Roadster and allow a later FS5W71B 5 speed to fit the U20 engine.

[ohmrchristopher]

Oddly enough that sounds like the transmission in my truck now. First almost seems like a low range and I have moved forward in second gear. Adding to the welded rear diff it really puts a drag on a slow corner from stop. I do have a open diff but haven't checked the ratio. I just left the yard and forgot to check for 5spd smh.

 

In your opinion Mike would the transmission you have be better suited for myself who does a lot of highway driving?

[datzenmike]

You have an F4W63 4 speed? This is what came in the '73 620. This has a 3.657 first!!!! This is appropriate for such a small L16 engine and a full load. Not so much needed with a larger displacement L20B.

 

 

Both the diesel and the Z24 5 speeds are about equal in 4th and 5th. Just the first gear on the diesel is so low. The Z24 5 speed has a 3.321 first. This is what was commonly used on the L20B powered 620s, other than the '79.

[ohmrchristopher]

Ok. Thanks so much. I am terrible with knowing those ratios and remembering that stuff.

 

Lastly where would I find the 71b front case? Can this be found in other Nissan cars or trucks? Thanks again.

[datzenmike]

Any Z car after '71 till '83

810/Maxima to '84

'74-'79 620

'80 720

 

I think I mentioned I have one and realistically, I'm not likely to ever need it. Before installing it I will verify the ratios..

[ohmrchristopher]

Oh I knew you had it I wasn't certain if you needed it or not. My dad has some vw buddies on the island and they are constantly moving parts. Let me know when you get around to having that put together. My email is my Ratsun name @gmail.com or pm too I guess.

[Z chopper]

speaking of diesel transmissions Cahoon is looking for one as his bit the biscuit.

[ohmrchristopher]

so i just bought a hitachi csk-114n am/fm/tape radio from the JY and i am wondering how to wire it to the truck.

 

There are 8 wires, 2 front speaker wires, 2 rear speaker wires, power w/ inline fuse and winding, ground, AND 2 wires i dont know. Solid red and solid green. I have power and ground but I cant seem to get the radio to turn on, so I am guessing it has to do with the other two wires.

 

if anyone has knowledge of this or a wiring diagram that would be sweet.

[ohmrchristopher]

Ok so I am in a bit of a bind now. I believe my alternator regulator died. Yesterday it was hard starting the truck, and if I had the brakes on the radio would cut off. Well come to this morning. Battery right dead, jump started. But no dash power, no lights, no fan. All off. Battery showed 7.5 volts.

 

I drove the truck to work and am charging the battery as I type. I had my multi on the battery when the truck was running and I wasn't getting any voltage still 7.5. It is the stock VR so I'm pretty sure at 40 years old it just kicked the bucket.

 

Well here's the thing no one stocks one in town. Lordco need to order it right from Borg Warner. And it'll probably take a week. I am going to be doing a 2.0L/5spd swap in a few weeks and I can just ride my bike to work.

 

So guess I take this massive down time to convert over to a normal IR alternator? I've read a few posts about it. What confuses me is which alt to pick. I've seen several people do several things. Can someone just post me the most basic none cluttered thread on this subject?

[ohmrchristopher]

I have started rebuilding the L20 will post pics tonight but I have some questions to ponder while I'm at work.

 

1. Can I run my L16 crank pulley. It's a single v and I only have the alternator. The L20 had an emissions package and thus an air pump. I am running my L16 intake and exhaust so I don't need the air pump. But I've noticed the timing plate is on the other side of the L20...

 

2. Noticed the fuel pump on the L20 is bigger, how much more flow is it over the L16, and would it be good to have a fuel px gauge? Running a weber 32/36

 

3. Can some one post a picture of the fuel hose and coolant hoses on their engines. Especially the coolant line from the top port on the side of the engine that goes to the thermostat housing?

 

4. Has anyone ever seen it used clear hoses for coolant? Are there any that are up to spec? I've always wanted to see the coolant float by :p

 

5. Do I buy a water pump with a fan clutch or not? Both the L16 and L20 have clutch less water pumps and I notice the hole spacing for the fans are different. I would like to run a slim electric fan b/c I am going to try and use the 3 core radiator and because this is a '73 truck the rad support is flat across and doesn't dip in so I think I will be tight for space?

 

6. I'll have to use the L20 coil and ballast w the "new" single point distributor

 

That's all I can remember. I have followed my Haynes manual thus far and have everything bolted together other than the valve cover, pick up and pan, flywheel and intake/exhaust because I need some parts of the L16 that I am still driving.

 

Thanks.

[Lockleaf]

I can only answer #4. There used to be a couple companies thar made coolant hoses out of pyrex with a rubber union at each end. They would even etch patterns in to them if you wanted and they sold led kits to make them glow. Not sure if they are still around, you will have to do some searching.

[]2eDeYe]

I have started rebuilding the L20 will post pics tonight but I have some questions to ponder while I'm at work.

 

1. Can I run my L16 crank pulley. It's a single v and I only have the alternator. The L20 had an emissions package and thus an air pump. I am running my L16 intake and exhaust so I don't need the air pump. But I've noticed the timing plate is on the other side of the L20...

 

Yes, L series are internally balanced. 

2. Noticed the fuel pump on the L20 is bigger, how much more flow is it over the L16, and would it be good to have a fuel px gauge? Running a weber 32/36

 

Shouldn't make any difference. 

 

3. Can some one post a picture of the fuel hose and coolant hoses on their engines. Especially the coolant line from the top port on the side of the engine that goes to the thermostat housing?

 

Not it!

4. Has anyone ever seen it used clear hoses for coolant? Are there any that are up to spec? I've always wanted to see the coolant float by :P

 

Clear hose is not braided so I don't think it would be rated for higher pressures you will see it the cooling system. 

 

5. Do I buy a water pump with a fan clutch or not? Both the L16 and L20 have clutch less water pumps and I notice the hole spacing for the fans are different. I would like to run a slim electric fan b/c I am going to try and use the 3 core radiator and because this is a '73 truck the rad support is flat across and doesn't dip in so I think I will be tight for space?

 

Use a ZX pump with the L20 fan. Fan clutches are the debil.

6. I'll have to use the L20 coil and ballast w the "new" single point distributor

 

Sounds good to me

 

That's all I can remember. I have followed my Haynes manual thus far and have everything bolted together other than the valve cover, pick up and pan, flywheel and intake/exhaust because I need some parts of the L16 that I am still driving.

 

Thanks.

 

 

:)

[sebpv]

Christ: Id take pictures but my engine parts are all over the place. My '73 has a coolant inlet from the lower rad hose on which T offs two lines: the blower heater and then coolant. A rubber hose makes an 90degree up towards the front then a single hard line around the corner along the front and bends towards the intake manifold coolant inlet. The last 6in is another rubber hose. My fuel line is simply a rubber hose from the filter to the carb.

 

I also read here somewhere that the fuel pumps are similar enough to be run on either engines...Dont quote me on that.

[ohmrchristopher]

Zx as in 300zx car? Any year?

 

Will I have to swap the little timing plate from the L16 to the L20 cause they are on different sides of each other. Would this affect the timing light?

 

Mike what flywheel did you give me again so I can get the right clutch?

[datzenmike]

Measure across the disc contact surface, I think 225mm. This will allow the use of most other larger truck clutches. Any 75-'79 620 clutch and PP will work but get the correct release collar with it.

 

1/ The timing scale from the L16 should fit the L20B and allow the L 16 front pulley.

 

2/ either will work. The L20B may have more volume but same pressure.

 

4/ You won't see motion in a solid column of moving water unless there are bubbles in it.

 

5/ If you have clutchless pumps run them. Use an electric fan if possible.

 

6/ If you now have an L16 coil and ballast it will work just fine with a new L20B points distributor.

 

 

 

 

I have started rebuilding the L20 will post pics tonight but I have some questions to ponder while I'm at work.

1. Can I run my L16 crank pulley. It's a single v and I only have the alternator. The L20 had an emissions package and thus an air pump. I am running my L16 intake and exhaust so I don't need the air pump. But I've noticed the timing plate is on the other side of the L20...

2. Noticed the fuel pump on the L20 is bigger, how much more flow is it over the L16, and would it be good to have a fuel px gauge? Running a weber 32/36

3. Can some one post a picture of the fuel hose and coolant hoses on their engines. Especially the coolant line from the top port on the side of the engine that goes to the thermostat housing?

4. Has anyone ever seen it used clear hoses for coolant? Are there any that are up to spec? I've always wanted to see the coolant float by :P

5. Do I buy a water pump with a fan clutch or not? Both the L16 and L20 have clutch less water pumps and I notice the hole spacing for the fans are different. I would like to run a slim electric fan b/c I am going to try and use the 3 core radiator and because this is a '73 truck the rad support is flat across and doesn't dip in so I think I will be tight for space?

6. I'll have to use the L20 coil and ballast w the "new" single point distributor

That's all I can remember. I have followed my Haynes manual thus far and have everything bolted together other than the valve cover, pick up and pan, flywheel and intake/exhaust because I need some parts of the L16 that I am still driving.

Thanks.

[ohmrchristopher]

Thanks Mike! Hopefully we see these bearings next week.

[Z chopper]

I can only answer #4. There used to be a couple companies thar made coolant hoses out of pyrex with a rubber union at each end. They would even etch patterns in to them if you wanted and they sold led kits to make them glow. Not sure if they are still around, you will have to do some searching.

http://www.killerglass.com/

[Lockleaf]

http://www.killerglass.com/

Yep, that's them. Now that I see it, I remember the name.

[ohmrchristopher]

Can some one please tell me how to wire my hazard switch to a modern three pole switch?

 

My clamshell has crumbled to bits. I'm going to put my ignition in the cig lighter spot and put the hazard switch in the little choke hole. I was looking at my wiring diagram, and I know what's going on but I don't know how to alter it. I don't need to have the turn signals in the dash flash cause I would like to have the lighted switch do that. But it's so tied in with the brakes and turn signals it's making my head hurt.

[datzenmike]

Can some one please tell me how to wire my hazard switch to a modern three pole switch?

 

Ain't happening.

 

There are 6 wires involved.

 

Two are disconnected and four connected to turn the 4 ways on. Two are connected and four disconnected to turn the 4 ways off yet still keep the turn signals working. Get another 4 way switch....

 

 

it's the only way to be sure.