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StreetFighter 620


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So after lots of thinking it through I've decided not to bag this truck after all. I'm going to bag my four door 510 instead due to the fact that there's several bagged 620s in my area already and want to do something different. So on this thing the things I'm wanting to do are a five or four lug swap, disk brakes, electronic ignition, side drafts, independent suspension, new seats, wheels, getting it a tad bit lower, and I need to replace the cab floor as well as some body work and paint. Any other upgrades you guys think I should look at feel free to comment below.  :D

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With my truck ive stylized it as a street truck/vintage race car with the colors and my one off take on the BRE stripes that Pete Brock approved of himself, and they would tape up the lights so glass wouldnt go all over the track in case of a crash. Thats why they are there and not any wannabe reasons. Thanks for your opinion though.

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  • 2 months later...

So this info is mainly notes for me in the future and so I know where they're at when I need to go back and look. However it may help others as well so it works either way.


Some Subarus have the 4:11 gears in a R160. Then there is LSD types. Viscus and clutched. They both work just fine... That being said, I prefer the clutched LSD but mostly because I Autocross. I have a R160 behind a L20b that is a bit pumped up and has been good. 3:90 gears. Probably going back to the 3:70 though. My L20b doesn't need to have the nuts revved off it to go. As it is I almost always take off in 2nd.


To really determine what gears you need, you take the tire circumference (how far it travels in one revolution), the transmission gear ratio (4 speeds are generally 1;1 in 4th, but a 5 speed would have an overdrive that varies by application), determine how fast you want the engine to spin at a given speed, then figure out how many tire rotations it will take to do that speed. Apply some math and you will get the approximate rear gear ratio you'll want to put in. I had a set of 4.88's in my autocross R190, and with the 20 inch slicks it would just crack 100mph in 4th gear at around 8K rpm (if I remember correctly). Great for acceleration (which I wanted)... would not have been a good street gear unless I went to a much bigger tire.


I run a 3.9 r180 out of a subi and for a street car this is good, I'm also running a 5speed gear box.

In regards too the LSD, I love the one in mine and it's so much more fun too drive in the wet and on dirt, but at the same time it's a lot more predictable as the car starts too drift as soon as the power goes on rather then the inside wheel spinning until it starts too drift.


 I've got an L20b with the close ratio '82 ZX 5spd (71b), and the stock 3:90 diff, with 185/60/14 tires. It's a good combo. The KA 5spd (71c), has a lower gear set than the 71b trans, but I'm thinking I remember the overdrive is about the same. Also if I remember correctly the s14s came with a 4.06 rear gear, but they were 15" wheels from the factory. I would think 3.90 or 4.11 will be pretty close to what you want. 

My 3.90 is just a stock 510 R160 unit, but I was able to find a 4.11 vlsd R160, and a 4.44 vlsd R160 from late model Subarus, at my local Auto Recycler for $50, and $75 respectively, and that was with them pulling it. It takes a little bit of work to swap things over, but if you want cheap, that's about as cheap as it gets.


 I asked the question about running a 280zxt R200 and CVs the other day. The answer was that the outer CV companion flange bolts right up, the CV shaft just needs to be shortened. 

So here's my thought: If you go with the R180 from an STI, then maybe run STI inner CVs, and 280zxt outer CVs, using a 280zxt outer companion flange. Surely a shop should be able to mate up the two CV ends...
Just run a turbo zx R200, since you have a few different options on aftermarket LSD units. Quaife, being one, and Kaaz being another I just heard about. 
I'm going to weigh the r160 vs the r200 this weekend just to verify the difference. 

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  • 2 months later...

You're a "wannabe" unless you have to tape them because you race. .....  Not a fan.  


I'm with dizzyguy.

Especially after your 'snide comments' comment.

Do you also stick socks in your shorts so that it looks like you really have a coc# ?

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I'm with sedition, it's his truck he can do what he wants with it. There's a lot of different people building different sorts of vehicles. You may not like it but you don't have to. That's the great thing about the car community, our cars are ours, not everyone else's. It could be worse, he could be making the truck unusable but instead he's using it. Personally I think it's a badass looking truck. Tape on the headlights goes with the overall look and that's what he's going for. If he has it that's his choice, ahit, I've seen completely stock cars running it trying to look cool. At least he doesn't have yellow high beams for the euro look

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Try to be more positive in your comments guys. Personal touches and themes are what having a vehicle is all about. No one complains about your rattle can rising hood paint jobs or frame dragging.

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The bigger issue is that you can't just "flush the system"  with the engine assembled and think you'll get even 90% of the junk out.  The oil passages in the crank have "dead heads" that can allow material to centrifugally settle out, until you shut the motor off, then they can settle back into the circulating oil on the next start-up.  Do a little homework on your oil passages so you can see all the bad places that trap particles.  Not to mention what's likely in the pickup screen, the oil pan, wedged in the oil restrictor at the head, etc...The oil weep hole in the cam lobe probably plugged up and that caused the failure, from junk like this still in the system.  Do yourself a huge favor and be thorough, or you'll be replacing another cam in a year or two.  

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  • 3 weeks later...

So got the cam replaced as well as all the followers and towers. When I picked it up it was pretty quiet, but as I've driven it around it's gotten a little noisy. Checked the oil and it was a little on the low side, brought it up to the mid-way point, still ticks. Blows white smoke sometimes under load. Thinking its eating oil somewhere. Anyway, took it to our first Cars & Coffee event of the year with a friend of mine. Feels good to drive it abit after so long not having it. Will be getting it back to him later in the week, have him dig deeper if it keeps doing stupid shit, then move on to bigger things with the truck. Will definitely have some great updates over the next few weeks.



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  • 1 month later...

Got an update. Whatever it's called that feeds oil to the top of the motor on the back side is plugged up pretty good and it seems I'd have to tear it all apart and do a slight rebuild. I really didn't want to have to do that when I'm wanting to swap in a KA at some point, so I've kinda put it all on hold. The truck is still getting bagged but I'm going to do it myself with a little help when it starts to get cold again. One big thing that I did do this week is pick up a full KA24de swap from a '92 S13 with only about 110k on it. I'll be collecting parts over the summer to get the swap done. Anyhow I'll update little things here and there as I get shit for it, but nothing crazy till the big stuff happens.



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