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sedition88

StreetFighter 620

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You cut into the OEM wire shielding? What wires were they? I do know that messing with wire shielding can cause problems.

 

Have you done a hard reset on the ECU? If you have, it may be that it needs time/miles to reset before it runs well again. I know this from experience. My Land Rover with a swapped in 22RE has a battery kill switch that I switch off every time I park it, and it always runs rich for the first few minutes after starting it up. It's in a sort of limp mode until it resets the monitors.

 

Have you cleared the codes? Is this OBDII or pre-OBDII?

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FYI - be careful of where your fresh air intake pipe is. I had the same thing and it ended up shorting out the MAF connector. I finally used brake duct tubing to get enough clearance...

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Its possible that your new MAF pinout is different from the old one?  Eliminating it shouldn't result in better running unless either its bad, or wired wrong.  

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It was the wiring that goes to the coil, ignition module, etc. It has metal strands in the shielding that was touching bare wire. It came out of a '93 so it's OBD-1. I also have a battery kill switch that I use every time. We've let it run for a while and it stays rich. The MAF I bought was a direct replacement as the one I took off. When we unplug the MAF it starts to idle nice and doesn't seem to smoke as bad. I got to get the brakes working correctly before I can try and drive it to see if clears up or not.

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My DE is also a '93 S13 and runs rich as well. Ive gone thru everything and replaced a boatload of parts "just to be safe" and it still runs rich. I think it is the lack of smog equipment. It does not throw any codes except 14 because I dont have the vehicle speed sensor from the 240SX but I dont think that is it. I am considering getting a Jim Wolfe custom ECU to see if I can tune it out. The engine runs great. Idle is perfect...Cant figure it out...

 

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Yeah I've been told that these tend to run rich that I may just be stuck with it. We're also thinking it may have some kind of cam in it because of how it runs, but don't really want to open it up just to see. Down the road I do plan on completely gutting all the wiring and starting from scratch and go with an aftermarket ECU as well to clean up all the wiring between Datsun and Nissan stuff.

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The other option is finding and obd1 ecu and making an adapter to hook it up to the obd2 engine. then modding the obd1 ecu to be flashable.

 

Edit: Just saw it is a obd1 already, then you should be able to mod it, no need for aftermarket ecu.

Edited by Moist Lightning
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On 11/10/2019 at 1:26 PM, FrankRizzo said:

FYI - be careful of where your fresh air intake pipe is. I had the same thing and it ended up shorting out the MAF connector. I finally used brake duct tubing to get enough clearance...

 

Interesting...  Might have to look into this.... I got something clicking - sounds electrical - on my KA swap right now coming from the left side of the engine  

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11 hours ago, demo243 said:

 

Interesting...  Might have to look into this.... I got something clicking - sounds electrical - on my KA swap right now coming from the left side of the engine  

 

Looked like this and I had to replace the MAF. because at this point I had let all of the smoke out.... Was hard to find because it was under the intake tube....and the plug sits almost straight up where it will rub.

 

6yPXANK.jpg

 

This is a pic of Alyssa Rose' butt I took at the Good Guys show this year:

 

2ZpV6ij.jpg

 

 

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Running too rich gives you a lopey idle that people can mistake for a bigger cam.  

Removing the MAF should make the engine go rich, as a safety measure, so having the engine run leaner when you remove it tells me either its calibrated wrong or wired wrong. Or your ignition isn't up to par, causing your rich mixture?  High resistance plug wires?  What do they Ohm at?  Cheap replacement coil packs? 

 

You probably know this but if not, the shielding wires need to only be grounded on one end, and need to stay very clear of other wiring connections.  Bare wires in the ignition can be causing your whole problem.  Looking at your MAF connector tells me you need to completely rewire this thing to get it to run properly.  Sorry but that harness is a mess, and the wiring is likely the cause of your issues.  Its these hidden problems that give false signals.  Visually inspect and "wiggle test" each wire.  

 

Or build a Microsquirt system with a new harness and switch to a generic MAP sensor.  Maybe $450 and you'll be up and running?  

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The MAF connector pictured above is not mine. But it could very well be bad wiring somewhere. I would like to have this rewired completely to eliminate all the extra stuff I don't need cluttering up stuff.

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Messed with a few more things and it still runs rich. Going to save for a stand alone ecm and engine wiring harness that deletes all none essentials. Brakes lose it's pressure some and pinned it down to the booster, so probably will get the later year booster for now while planning on deleting it in the future. But it's drivable so I'll enjoy it till it's time to tear into again.

 

83000481-3240088426017966-18174722981442

Edited by sedition88
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that doesn't make sense. why should an engine not be able to run properly on the ecu it was designed for and run properly on an aftermarket solution.

how did you determine it is running rich? sr20's are swapped in so any different cars, i cannot believe the running rich can't be solved with standard parts.

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Pump brakes to release any stored vacuum. Press down on the brake and hold. Start engine. What you should experience is the pedal will drop about an inch as manifold vacuum rises. This is normal operation.

 

 

There is a one way valve in line. The intake side should allow you to suck air through it. The booster side should not. The booster is sealed and with the one way valve should be capable of storing vacuum when the engine is shut off. Vacuum hoses should be split or crack free and securely clamped to the intake and one way valve.

 

Engine stutter or stall at idle when brakes applied would indicate the diaphragm or a seal is bad inside.

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The booster could be the whole problem. If it has a massive vacuum leak, the ECU could be compensating.

 

30 minutes ago, Eric said:

that doesn't make sense. why should an engine not be able to run properly on the ecu it was designed for and run properly on an aftermarket solution.

how did you determine it is running rich? sr20's are swapped in so any different cars, i cannot believe the running rich can't be solved with standard parts.

Engine swaps using OEM ECUs can be tricky. Often times, not every part that came int he engine's original platform are installed during the swap. On my first EFI swap (about 20 years ago) I had to play around with what the ECU needed to run well. It was trial and error.

 

 

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2 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

The booster could be the whole problem. If it has a massive vacuum leak, the ECU could be compensating.

 

Engine swaps using OEM ECUs can be tricky. Often times, not every part that came int he engine's original platform are installed during the swap. On my first EFI swap (about 20 years ago) I had to play around with what the ECU needed to run well. It was trial and error.

 

 

 

so if that is the case it's not because of the ecu it is because of not all the parts that are needed for the ecu to work properly are installed. install what's needed and the ecu will work just fine. unless there is some sort of immobilizer build in the ecu that can be a pain in the ass.

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We've swapped out pretty much every part and gone through a lot of the wiring. Thinking it could something in the wiring due to some of the splices, which is why I want to get a new harness. As far as the ecm is concerned that's more to be able to fine tune stuff and if I modify the motor then it can actually be tuned properly. As far as the brakes go, I can pump them and get pressure but then it bleeds off some. All the line are new.

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On 1/19/2020 at 10:54 AM, Eric said:

 

so if that is the case it's not because of the ecu it is because of not all the parts that are needed for the ecu to work properly are installed. install what's needed and the ecu will work just fine. unless there is some sort of immobilizer build in the ecu that can be a pain in the ass.

It may take some trial and error to figure out exactly what the ECU needs to communicate with.

 

You can't believe everything you read online either. Most guys out there don't actually care how it runs, or don't ever get it there, so taking advice from these people is not a great idea.

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Got me a complete wiring harness from Wiring Specialties and essentially a brake booster delete to update and clean up the bay 

 

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Uh your brakes are the biggest safety item on your truck. This is a KA swapped truck!!!! Removing it increases the effort effort by 50%. Find another one.

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