Oil Of Choice?

[Vitamin Pepsi]

What oil do you run in your Z?

 

Last summer I ran Royal Purple 15w40. This year I'm going a bit thinner, going to try Liquimolly 5w30.

[AtlanticCoastDatsun]

i dont have a z, but I can tell you about royal purple. While working on a turbo project last summer I was in contact with several mechanics/technical gurus over @ greddy performance. I was explicitly told to NOT EVER USE ROYAL PURPLE as EVERY turbo that greddy had to breakdown and repair that had used royal purple had bad bearing coking and ultimately caused a center housing failure, mind you that this wasnt some teenagers honduh with a turbo kit, these were 100k$ cars like porsche built 350z built mazdas etc etc. If you would like more information on royal purple and turbo bearing failures contact Brian Dungca @ greddy technical.

 

I use kendal gt-1 liquid titanium, it is as close to a pre epa regulated oil as you can get, plenty of the good stuff like zinc. IBegan using kendall when I installed an isky cam awhile back and it came with an oil workesheet that specificallyy recommended kendall gt1 for our flat tappet camshafts. ;)

 

 

[Stupid_fast]

There was a large thread about this not too long ago..

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/39720-l20b-oil-reccomendations/

[DanielC]

Valvoline VR-1 Racing oil.

Use Nissan oil filters.

 

See the thread mentioned above.

[ArchetypeDatsun]

Z cars shouldn't use synthetic oil because it's an older engine regular oil is good enough, I have tried royal purple in my 280zx turbo and I wasn't too pleased with it. It burns much faster, the only thing I used royal purple for is my differential and transmission and it runs really smooth.

 

Right now my car has Pennzoil I think it was 10-30w with a Nissan filter.

[MkS30]

Whatever is on sale. Even the cheapest oil today is better than the best oil of the 70', 80's and 90's.

It's a truly remarkable thing.

Royal Purple is a nightmare. I work at an auto parts store and I always deal with unhappy royal purple customers. It takes A LOT to flush that stuff out, and you need to flush it if you want to use anything else.

I use Catrol GTX or GTX High Mileage 10w-40 and a good oil filter. (i.e. k&n or a Bosch distance plus.) If my memory serves me correctly, and I am sure that I'm not spot on with the numbers, they filter down to 8-14 microns. Particles like that can get by other filters and they can score the cylinder walls over time which reduces compression, increases probability or amount of blow by etc.

I may run an oil additive like Lucas or something.

If i were to do racing or weekend events I may run a synthetic racing oil because they have thermal transfer capabilities, and break down significantly less at high temps and high load.

Of course, that Kendal gt-1 stuff sounds awesome...but also some what of a specialist item. I like Castrol and products like it because I can get it at work (at a discount of course )

I'm not an expert or even close to one. But these are a couple of the things I've learned from experience and some track veterans.

[ggzilla]

Z cars shouldn't use synthetic oil because it's an older engine regular oil is good enough

That's like saying "You shouldn't drive a Datsun, because a Kia is good enough ..."

 

Although I agree that "regular" oil like 10W-30 is good enough to get 250,000 miles out of an engine. It lubricates better than 20W-50.

[ArchetypeDatsun]

That's like saying "You shouldn't drive a Datsun, because a Kia is good enough ..."

 

Although I agree that "regular" oil like 10W-30 is good enough to get 250,000 miles out of an engine. It lubricates better than 20W-50.

 

Not necessarily saying you shouldn't drive a Datsun but remember these are older engines, everyone I know that drives a Datsun or older toyotas never use synthetic oils. If it's been build for racing or you do some kind thing I say why not try it out but I drive my Z as a daily driver so I want my oil to last. I think royal purple gear oil is pretty good I use.

[Fearedi Z31]

The problem with newer oils is the lack of phosphorus and zinc content. Another element is also important, but I can't remember the word. Zinc is a very important thing for older engines. Zinc is needing in all motors actually because it is a crucial lubricant need when 2 pieces of metal rub together. I drive a 89 300z, but still need the higher content because of my flat tappet cams. Diesel oil or actually Heavy duty oil still has high amounts of both elements. 1000ppm of both elements is still in most heavy duty oils. Sadly though, the feds are trying to cut down on these oils as well. Most average oil now a days, barley have 400ppm. Valvoline VR1 is a good choice if you don't want to try heavy duty oil. 800ppm of both elements is present.<Don't quote me on that though.

 

I am currently using 15w-40 Mobil Delcac. It runs really nice but hard start ups in the cold. Gona try the T5 10w-30 Rotella for my next oil change. My millage is currently 130k.

[DanielC]

Modern engine have different designs than older engines. Car makers, knowing that zinc, and phosphorus levels in oils would be dropping, switched to roller tappet camshafts, for example.

 

An oil designed for a modern engine may not be the best one for your NOT modern engine.

 

Although a synthetic oil may be better in a modern engine, It may not be the best thing for your older Datsun engine.

 

According the the PDF available from the valvoline.com, VR1 oil has 1400 PPM, and 1300 PPM Zinc, and phosphorus.

 

I have used Valvoline racing oil since you bought it in cases that looked like this.

[ggzilla]

So a modern oil like Valvoline VR1 is not good for a 1978 280Z?

[Fearedi Z31]

Modern engine have different designs than older engines. Car makers, knowing that zinc, and phosphorus levels in oils would be dropping, switched to roller tappet camshafts, for example.

 

An oil designed for a modern engine may not be the best one for your NOT modern engine.

 

Although a synthetic oil may be better in a modern engine, It may not be the best thing for your older Datsun engine.

 

According the the PDF available from the valvoline.com, VR1 oil has 1400 PPM, and 1300 PPM Zinc, and phosphorus.

 

I have used Valvoline racing oil since you bought it in cases that looked like this.

 

Well in either case, older cars are having a tough time getting the oil they need. A lot of talk of this I've seen with older muscle car people. A lot of them are either buying diesel/heavy duty oil, or buying ZDDP in a can. I've not tried the can stuff before. The problem running diesel oil though is it attacks your cat. So if you live where I do, you won't care what happens to the cat. If you live in Cali, ya don't do it.

 

So a modern oil like Valvoline VR1 is not good for a 1978 280Z?

 

Yes and no. A lot of it depends on your millage and age. My car ran fine with it, but I switched because its so damn expensive. $50 plus per oil change is outrages. I'm also hearing that synthetic oil attacks your seals. It will make them "shrink" and cause oil leaks. Never seen proof of this though.

 

Another factor is also a Big issue. What we think is normal driving: (going to and from the store, going to work, picking up the kids, etc) is severe driving. Driving dusty roads and climate are also factors. So choosing the oil You think that best suites your driving style would be something to think about. Hwy driving is what I believe to be the best conditions.

[Laecaon]

Most of here dont have CATs... so running diesel oil is fine. Delo 400 14w-40 for me!

[Stupid_fast]

So a modern oil like Valvoline VR1 is not good for a 1978 280Z?

 

I run VR-1 non-synthetic racing oil 10w30 on my L20b.. runs great, but I don't have experience with other oil.

It has the high ZDDP and other good stuff for older engine and cam designs.

 

I have a cat, but my engine does not burn or leak oil so I never notice any issue there. Some cars that burn oil ZDDP will ruin a cat I've heard.

 

From my research its one of the best choice for L series oil.

 

$70 for 12 quarts on amazon. Works out to like $30/oil change with L20b(4.5 liters).

[DanielC]

The old case box above has a part number on it, from Valvoline, #223.

I just bought some Valvoline VR-1 30 weight oil from Knect's in Portland, Or. the part number on it is #223. Price, 4.99 a quart.

 

I would not consider Valvoline VR-1 a modern oil.

[ArchetypeDatsun]

Well I can say I did forget to add that my Z did leak oil when I put in the Royal Purple in soon after my car was smoking pretty bad, that's when I changed heads and went and got an oil change and never leaks again.

[DARIN 510]

Most of here dont have CATs... so running diesel oil is fine. Delo 400 14w-40 for me!

Unfortunately they only have about 500 ppm now. Notice how it says low emission

[DARIN 510]

I run VR-1 non-synthetic racing oil 10w30 on my L20b.. runs great, but I don't have experience with other oil.

It has the high ZDDP and other good stuff for older engine and cam designs.

 

I have a cat, but my engine does not burn or leak oil so I never notice any issue there. Some cars that burn oil ZDDP will ruin a cat I've heard.

 

 

That's true about the catalytic converter and that's why they have taken so much of it out. They tried to extend the life of cats by lowering the amount of zinc and phosphorus. If you go on the manufacters web sites they list the amout of zddp they put in each oil. You can call and ask them too

[phiz]

Since my L26 is tighter than a...well...since it has less than 50k on it, I run Mobil 1R 0W-30 in it.

When it get's a little older I'll consider switching back to dinosaur juice.

[ggzilla]

So what I'm hearing is that any oil is good except Royal Purple. And that basic 10W-30 is working well for everybody who is using it.

[banzai510(hainz)]

I go to the junk yard and bring a coffee filter and drain it.

Thats what I do.

[ggzilla]

Coffee?

[phiz]

So what I'm hearing is that any oil is good except Royal Purple. And that basic 10W-30 is working well for everybody.

 

I'm of the opinion that if it's slippery enough, great....as long as it's clean.

So I spurge on quality filters....though I imagine any filter with a high psi seal that meets or exceeds the HS-806 particulate filtration standard is fine as long as you change it when you're supposed to.

I've had a cheapo Fram blow a seal on me at speed once. It's not fun...kinda messy, too.

I routinely cut my used filters apart and break out the mondo-magnifying glass to see what's being trapped...well, mostly because I like to tear stuff apart like a tweaker. :D

[Tice]

Does anyone have any experiance with Motul? I've been using the Kendall and am very happy with it. However I use both Motul clutch and Brake fluid... so could I make it a trifecta for Motul, and still be safe? and to answer the OPs question, I use K&N filters all 'round.

[Mr.Woof's72z]

VR-1 in my L engines, always. High ZDDP, will be running it in my small block chevy as well. Royal purple for lubes/fluids, VR-1 for oils.