socaldatsun Posted February 10, 2012 Report Share Posted February 10, 2012 I've been looking since last night and could not find a guide. Some one did tell me just to disconect the wireing and all hoses, the mounts at the frame point and undo the trans mount and drive shaft. from their is it a slant and pull out? Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted February 10, 2012 Report Share Posted February 10, 2012 yep. Did it a few days ago with a few ratuners on a 620. Drive shaft/exhaust/fuel lines/rad/motor and trans mounts/ and wires. The rest is about the angle of your dangle :P Quote Link to comment
kaoss Posted February 10, 2012 Report Share Posted February 10, 2012 On a 620, take the bolts out that hold the pitman arm up out of the frame and swing the entire steering assembly out of the way. Quote Link to comment
socaldatsun Posted February 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2012 yep. Did it a few days ago with a few ratuners on a 620. Drive shaft/exhaust/fuel lines/rad/motor and trans mounts/ and wires. The rest is about the angle of your dangle :P Seems prety simple X) First time doing it so ill just learn as I go:P and its a 521 yo! ;) Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted February 10, 2012 Report Share Posted February 10, 2012 X2 ^^^ pumpkn dave did that and I forgot about that step. Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted February 10, 2012 Report Share Posted February 10, 2012 popping your engine removal cherry!!!! :P I would HIGHLY suggest one of these vvvv Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted February 10, 2012 Report Share Posted February 10, 2012 why you pu;lling motor???????? if 4 speed remove the lower dust cover on trans otherwise thee motor will not come out. Use a leveler to angle the motor up to clear the steering bar. I jack up the trans to help angle it out(motor oull only) I leave the exhaust manifold in the truck and put push off to the side. use a dig cam to document all the hoses ect to where they go back to. dont pull a motor just to pull it!!!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment
KC Phirus Posted February 10, 2012 Report Share Posted February 10, 2012 Ollz I'm about to pull mine with a couple of tow straps and another big guy Must be nice to have all those fancy tools. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 10, 2012 Report Share Posted February 10, 2012 I've been looking since last night and could not find a guide. Some one did tell me just to disconect the wireing and all hoses, the mounts at the frame point and undo the trans mount and drive shaft. from their is it a slant and pull out? Drain coolant, store in safe place away from pets and kids. Disconnect heater hose at lower rad hose inlet and the other one from back of head on spark plug side. Disconnect top and bottom rad hoses at block, remove fan shroud and then the rad. Optional remove plastic fan to protect it. Tie all hoses out of way. Disconnect the Neg - cable at battery. Now remove the ground cable where it bolts onto the head behind the fuel pump. Remove the Pos + cable and the solenoid wire from the starter. Remove the starter. Remove the reverse light wiring from transmission. Tie all wiring out of way. Now safe to remove wires from the alternator. Loosen and swing alternator closer to the block and out of the way. Disconnect the oil pressure sender on block between oil filter and dip stick. Tie all wiring out of way. Disconnect the water temp sender wire on front of thermostat housing (yellow/white wire) and the distributor. Remove the cap and wires to protect them. Disconnect the choke heater and idle cut wires at carb. Tie all wiring out of way. Disconnect the large vacuum hose from intake for the brake booster. Disconnect the throttle cable at carb. Support motor and remove the motor mount bolts. 1 Quote Link to comment
socaldatsun Posted February 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2012 popping your engine removal cherry!!!! :P I would HIGHLY suggest one of these vvvv All over it ;) picked one up whit morning :P Quote Link to comment
socaldatsun Posted February 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2012 why you pu;lling motor???????? if 4 speed remove the lower dust cover on trans otherwise thee motor will not come out. Use a leveler to angle the motor up to clear the steering bar. I jack up the trans to help angle it out(motor oull only) I leave the exhaust manifold in the truck and put push off to the side. use a dig cam to document all the hoses ect to where they go back to. dont pull a motor just to pull it!!!!!!!!!!! I got everything labled, and well i already picked up an L20B that ima drop in :) Quote Link to comment
socaldatsun Posted February 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2012 Drain coolant, store in safe place away from pets and kids. Disconnect heater hose at lower rad hose inlet and the other one from back of head on spark plug side. Disconnect top and bottom rad hoses at block, remove fan shroud and then the rad. Optional remove plastic fan to protect it. Tie all hoses out of way. Disconnect the Neg - cable at battery. Now remove the ground cable where it bolts onto the head behind the fuel pump. Remove the Pos + cable and the solenoid wire from the starter. Remove the starter. Remove the reverse light wiring from transmission. Tie all wiring out of way. Now safe to remove wires from the alternator. Loosen and swing alternator closer to the block and out of the way. Disconnect the oil pressure sender on block between oil filter and dip stick. Tie all wiring out of way. Disconnect the water temp sender wire on front of thermostat housing (yellow/white wire) and the distributor. Remove the cap and wires to protect them. Disconnect the choke heater and idle cut wires at carb. Tie all wiring out of way. Disconnect the large vacuum hose from intake for the brake booster. Disconnect the throttle cable at carb. Support motor and remove the motor mount bolts. Thanks! prety sure this will help out ALOT! Quote Link to comment
socaldatsun Posted February 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2012 and the main reason I am swapping is because I blew a head gasket and thought the motor was seized up, later to find out it isnt and still rebuildable. By the time I found out it was too late but oh well :P who doesnt want a bigger motor :) btw I need to learn how to multyquote lol Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 11, 2012 Report Share Posted February 11, 2012 Click one or more of the MultiQuote buttons in lower right of post. Now hit Add Reply and the one or more quotes will be displayed. You can copy and paste them if you want the order changed. You can edit them to remove excess dialogue and pictures to make it obvious what you are replying to. You can move the QUOTE around to make it a quote within a quote. I got everything labled, and well i already picked up an L20B that ima drop in :) Thanks! prety sure this will help out ALOT! All over it ;) picked one up whit morning :P Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted February 11, 2012 Report Share Posted February 11, 2012 ^ He put a quote in a quote so he can reply while he was replying, DAWG! :P Quote Link to comment
Dirttrack510 Posted February 11, 2012 Report Share Posted February 11, 2012 Swapping the engine in these cars is super easy. I swapped my engine 3 times in one day on my race wagon once... I was trying to find a good runner just so I could race that weekend. I ended up putting the original engine back in after the first two motors having issues. :rofl: Now I'm building a real race engine :devil: Quote Link to comment
socaldatsun Posted February 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2012 well just got in from the garage, managed to take the motor outwith out a problem :) just left with two mistery nuts i cannot figure out what they are for, missing one of the nuts for the motor mount, and my driverside motor mount kinda tore off while I was pulling the motor. The metal peice came apart from the ruber. tomorow im going to spend the day cleaning the engine bay and maybe spraying the block, headers, valve cover. one side is red and the other is blue lol. and gonna start serching all the torque specs for the bolts and nuts Quote Link to comment
Dirttrack510 Posted February 11, 2012 Report Share Posted February 11, 2012 Congrats... your half way there. :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
screamer510 Posted February 11, 2012 Report Share Posted February 11, 2012 Can the engine be removed from a 510 with the stock exhaust manifold detached from the engine but still in place in the engine bay? I think I need a nut splitter for the exhaust manifold downpipe nuts... Quote Link to comment
KC Phirus Posted February 11, 2012 Report Share Posted February 11, 2012 Can the engine be removed from a 510 with the stock exhaust manifold detached from the engine but still in place in the engine bay? I think I need a nut splitter for the exhaust manifold downpipe nuts... Yep. I don't see why you wouldn't be able to. Seen it come out with the headers still ON it. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted February 11, 2012 Report Share Posted February 11, 2012 I pullthe crank case vent tube from the block (L16)and leave the exhaust manifold in the car.So I dont worry about breaking the Y pipe bolts. Motor should come out EZ. I pull the intake out also. if 4 speed remove the dust cover with the 10mm head otherwise flywheel will catch Quote Link to comment
docbainey Posted February 11, 2012 Report Share Posted February 11, 2012 Can the engine be removed from a 510 with the stock exhaust manifold detached from the engine but still in place in the engine bay? I think I need a nut splitter for the exhaust manifold downpipe nuts... If you can't pull the manifold off the head studs, just take the studs out, If you take the head off, the pan, oil pump, front cover. etc, you can get in the engine bay and remove it by yourself. Support the car and transmission with jack stand first. Did this in a 610, with an L20 Oh, forgot about the crankcase breather tube on the l16, your screwed. Just break the studs on the cast iron down pipe and fix them when it;s out. Quote Link to comment
socaldatsun Posted February 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2012 come down with something really bad :( think ill be in bed all day and wont be abloe to work... Quote Link to comment
screamer510 Posted February 13, 2012 Report Share Posted February 13, 2012 Ha! Got mine pulled and tore down to the block in about 6 hours. The temperature went from 20*F to 30*F during that time. My little space heater was working over time! Hope you can get yours pulled soon. Feel better. Quote Link to comment
EricJB Posted February 13, 2012 Report Share Posted February 13, 2012 Not helpfull or recomended, but last summer I borrowed a forklift to move my Bridgeport. I decided to strip a Z car while I had it. Cut all the wires, cables, hoses, etc. Thought I had everything covered. I hooked a chain to the motor, had the car literally off the ground and almost verticle before the throttle linkage snapped. Laughed my ass off. Quote Link to comment
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