Five&Dime Posted January 31, 2012 Report Share Posted January 31, 2012 I haven't changed my oil yet in my 510 I have an l20b can't find anything online. What weight and brands are you guys using? Quote Link to comment
KC Phirus Posted January 31, 2012 Report Share Posted January 31, 2012 Depends on your mileage and climate My L20b has 226k Right now I'm running Castrol GTX 10w 45 Personally I don't believe you looked, anywhere, at all. 1 Quote Link to comment
Zeusimo Posted January 31, 2012 Report Share Posted January 31, 2012 Just Hit 6k Using Royal Purple 7.5W-30 With Napa Gold :cool: Quote Link to comment
I'm BLUE Posted January 31, 2012 Report Share Posted January 31, 2012 On ratsun ...5 issues that have a vast sense of " chaos " ... when attempting to sway the other side ... Do not ever use fram filters ... seriously..... Winter = 10w-30 valvoline ... Summer = 15w-40 chevron delo or 10w-40 valvoline Remember today's oils (most) do not have that special element that keeps our valvetrain ... specifically the camshafts.... from wearing out pre-maturely Find what works for the engine ....everyone has their preferences ... Quote Link to comment
Digi7al Trauma Posted January 31, 2012 Report Share Posted January 31, 2012 Depends on your mileage and climate My L20b has 226k Right now I'm running Castrol GTX 10w 45 Personally I don't believe you looked, anywhere, at all. but 10w30 is what i run Quote Link to comment
KC Phirus Posted January 31, 2012 Report Share Posted January 31, 2012 I use a fram filter just to spite you guys After I do the timing chain I'll prob to to a lighter oil and a better filter. 10w45 stopped the rattle. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted January 31, 2012 Report Share Posted January 31, 2012 I use 20/50 in everything but the diesels, I use delo 400 in them., used to use fram until Ratsun, now I use Wix. Quote Link to comment
EricJB Posted January 31, 2012 Report Share Posted January 31, 2012 I run 20/50 in anything old enough to have origanally ran 30w, or my race motors that i set up LOOOOOOSE. My 08 ranger DD gets what the filler cap say's. Something thin, I cant remember. I never open the hood. Only Wix or Baldwin filters. My Grampa was a stubborn, Fram/ Pennsoil man. I cant think of a worse combination. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 31, 2012 Report Share Posted January 31, 2012 I use a fram filter just to spite you guys After I do the timing chain I'll prob to to a lighter oil and a better filter. 10w45 stopped the rattle. Low oil pressure from worn main and rods likely. Specially noticeable at idle and low speed. Get a high volume oil pump from a 4 cylinder Hardbody. Four bolts and 10 min to change improved my 17psi hot idle to 29psi. Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted January 31, 2012 Report Share Posted January 31, 2012 (edited) http://olddatsuns.com/ ^^ seriously. I use Castrol 10W-30 with a Bosch filter. I just recently tried the Penzoil high mileage and I like it so far. Next oil change is going to be using Napa products, so who knows what I'll use.. Edited January 31, 2012 by metalmonkey47 Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted January 31, 2012 Report Share Posted January 31, 2012 I'm not particular about what I run, except I try to stay away from 10W30 since it tends to end up all over the undercarriage faster. My oil cabinet has bottles of straight-30W, 15W40, 10W40, and 20W50 in it. Trying to keep straight what goes in what is a pain so I'm kinda switching to 15W40 for everything since I have to buy it by the bucket for my diesels anyway (nothing like a 4-gallon oil change.) It doesn't get cold enough here to worry about using lightweight stuff. Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted January 31, 2012 Report Share Posted January 31, 2012 "Remember today's oils (most) do not have that special element that keeps our valvetrain ... specifically the camshafts.... from wearing out pre-maturely" This is one of the most important pieces of information you need to know. The additive that is being talked about is known a ZDDP. It prevents wear on the rocker arms, and the camshaft lobes. It also is hard on catalytic converters. Most modern engines are being equipped with valve trains designed to run without this additive, and the EPA, and oil companies are reducing, or eliminating it from engine oil. One oil I use in older engines is Valvoline VR-1 racing oil. It does have the required levels of ZPPD. If you need a cheap oil filter for filtering the solvent on your parts washer, Fram is OK. They are also good for masking off the oil filter mount when you paint your engine. Do not run one on your engine. Quote Link to comment
RadioRedline Posted January 31, 2012 Report Share Posted January 31, 2012 Shell 10w30 and a Wix. Zero issues once switched from Fram. Radio Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 31, 2012 Report Share Posted January 31, 2012 Shell 10w30 and a Wix. Zero issues complaints from Ratsun once switched from Fram. Radio fixed 1 Quote Link to comment
EricJB Posted January 31, 2012 Report Share Posted January 31, 2012 http://olddatsuns.com/ ^^ seriously. I use Castrol 10W-30 with a Bosch filter. I just recently tried the Penzoil high mileage and I like it so far. Next oil change is going to be using Napa products, so who knows what I'll use.. NAPA brand oil is Valvoline. NAPA oil filters are Wix. FYI Quote Link to comment
Buzzbomb Posted February 1, 2012 Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 Is the "new oil wears out cams" even relevant to Datsuns? I'm also a Chevy fan, and YES, this is an issue with old school small and big block Chevrolets, and also Ford and Chrysler engines. Reason being is that many are push rod motors with a flat tappet valve train. An L20B, for instance, is in no way similar to this valvetrain wise. I just don't think the layout of the old school OHC Nissan engines lends itself to wearing cams out like a push rod V8 or V6. When you adjust an old Chevy, you turn the rocker nut until it stops clacking, clearance not important. With an L20B, there is a certain amount of clearance necessary when the engine is HOT, therefore one would think that clearance doesn't put as much stress on the components. I used Castrol GTX 10W40 all year long with no issues in my L20B. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted February 1, 2012 Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 Yes, the valvetrain in Datsun L-series is very much like a flat tappet. It is 1) not hydraulic, but uses flat adjusters and 2) doesn't use rollers. Because they are not hydraulic it puts more strain on the parts compare to hydraulic lifter. The valves are smaller but run at higher RPMs than chevy so it's a wash. That said, with the L-series it's not much of a problem except with high-lift and long-duration competition cams running extended periods at high RPM. For that Nissan recommends the oil spray-bar modification. When Ford had a bunch of trouble with worn OHC cams back in the 90s, they stopped recommending 10W-40 because only about 1/2 of them were good enough. But with 10W-30 they found all the brands had the proper lubrication. Ford actually tested in their engines rather than go by the spec. sheets. The difference of 10W-30 and 10W-40 are both are the same thin-ness but the 10W-40 has more extenders to keep it thicker at different temperatures. Apparently the extenders weren't that great. I expect that 10W-40 formulations have improved since then. Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted February 1, 2012 Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 Delo-400 15w40. I got it for $10/gal at Fred Meyers. A napa filter, depends on which one with my mood. I find the cheapy one is adequate as it is better then Frams best... Quote Link to comment
Five&Dime Posted February 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 whats wrong with the fram filter? and if my motor only has like 30k should i run 5w 30 or 10w 30 still? Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted February 1, 2012 Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 whats wrong with the fram filter? and if my motor only has like 30k should i run 5w 30 or 10w 30 still? Fram filters, of all filters they clean the worst (even the more expensive model). For what you pay on their cheapest filter, it is cheaper to get a different one for a better filter. I have also heard of failed anti drainback (not applicable for us), and filters that have the glue/cardboard detach inside, I have not heard of another filter that uses cardboard. So, they are overly expensive, have less filter surface area than cheaper filters, have cheaper (material cost) parts inside, and are more prone to failure. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted February 1, 2012 Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 Those oils will work fine, as will any mentioned here. They all work fine. New or old engine. Technically the synthetic oils are better but in the long run it doesn't make much difference. Even with cheap oil a Datsun engine can go 250,000 miles. Keep it clean and use a good filter. Quote Link to comment
Buzzbomb Posted February 1, 2012 Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 I guess the OHC Nissan L is along the same lines as a solid lifter flat tappet cam...INteresting. The V8 engines that seem to have trouble eating cams are more often than not non-stock hydraulic grinds. So I guess the "non-stock" idea is the key here. There are tons of theories for this, including valve spring pressure for a non-stock cam on down to the quality of the metal in the cam core. I changed to 15W40 Delo in my Chevy because it has a non-stock cam, but I've been using 10W40 Castrol forever in my L20B. I'm glad it's not much of an issue with the stock Datsun stuff..it gets COLD here, and 15W40 might not be the best idea :P For those of us that still have to deal with emissions tests, loading up the oil with ZDDP might not be the best idea for the catalytic converter. I use to use Fram, but not now. I use either CarQuest, Napa, or WIX. I'd use a WalMart SuperTech filter before using a Fram OIL filter. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted February 1, 2012 Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 15W-40 is good down to about 10 degrees, no worries. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted February 2, 2012 Report Share Posted February 2, 2012 I agree with ggzilla, keep oil of just about any type in the engine, change the filter every once in a while, antifreeze in the radiator, and the L block will run forever, but after they start to get a lot of blowby, it starts getting expensive, as oil starts coming out everywhere, but that engine keeps right on running. Fact is, there has been only one datsun/nissan engine I was unable to get started, it was a SD22 diesel, and I think the problem was the injection pump, not the engine. Quote Link to comment
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