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Strut insert and Rear shock guide!!!


CoilOVerKid

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I have GR2's in the front of my dime. I don't particularly like them. They are fine on the road with little stuff, but they absolutely fail to control anything that is crazy. Once they are going they just keep going. Unless it's ice cold and freezing out, then they ride great.

Of course >200# springs and GR2's will *never* go well together.

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I have GR2's in the front of my dime. I don't particularly like them. They are fine on the road with little stuff, but they absolutely fail to control anything that is crazy. Once they are going they just keep going. Unless it's ice cold and freezing out, then they ride great.

 

Of course >200# springs and GR2's will *never* go well together.

The gr's are only gonna be for daily use.

I don't plan to do any track time or much of the sort.

 

I'm sure they'll do fine.

I'm not expecting the gr2's to be great. just better than what I had.

 

edit: plus runnign 275 lbs

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i have 275 lb so this should hopefully work well.

thanks for the feedback! 

 

if only i could figure out a cheap rear setup for coil overs.

 

can't weld.... prob gonna buy rear coilvoers form skib 

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Thank god all went well.

the strut came in and all is good.

 

I just need some camber plates now and front suspension done!

 

i hope all goes well and it fits correctly.

 

CAM00302_zps090fab60.jpg

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  • 4 months later...

Soooo, I used this thread to advise me on what strut inserts to purchase.   I bought the KYB Excel-G/GR-2 363045 (1985 MR2 Front)...  First off, I assumed the dimensions had to be close to the same between different brands, but I found that is not true.   First I used the measuring instructions posted by Rex510... As it turns out, KYB and Monroe don't include the threads in their measurements.  Instead, they measure to the "shoulder" or "bumper or lockout contact" on the piston rod that the upper mount sits on.  Which is actually a more accurate way to measure.

 

Here are the measurements that were originally posted, my measurements using the method Rex510 suggested, and my measurements only measuring to the top mount shoulder:

 

This first one is a bad example, because the major difference here is they are diff. models: HP (HZ3038) and the Illuminas (BZ3038). The Illuminas are currently discontinued, but as you can see, even different models between the same brand, can very in size.

 

 

Original Post:
1983 Datsun 280ZX (front) Illumina Tokico part# BZ3038
Body length: 14.75"
Compressed length: 17.250"
Extended length: 24.000"
Travel length: 7.250"

 

My Measurements including the threads:

Tokico HP HZ3038

Body length:  14.875"

Compressed length:  17.250"

Extended length:  23.750"

Travel length:  17.250"

 

My measurements to the top mount shoulder on the piston rod:

Tokico HP HZ3038

Body length:  14.875"

Compressed length:  16.250"

Extended length:  22.875"

Travel length:  6.625"

 

 

And now the KYB GR-2 363045 (1985 MR2 Front)

 

Original Post:

1985 Toyota MR2 (AW11 front) Monroe part# 72880
Body type: T2
Body length: 14.500"
Compressed length: 15.750"
Extended length: 22.125"
Travel length: 6.375"

 

My Measurements including the threads:

1985 Toyota MR2 (AW11 front) KYB GR-2 363045

Body length:  14.9375"

Compressed length:  16.875"

Extended length:  23.500"

Travel length:  6.500"

 

My measurements to the top mount shoulder on the piston rod (closer to the Monroe specs):

1985 Toyota MR2 (AW11 front) KYB GR-2 363045

Body length:  14.9375"

Compressed length:  15.375"

Extended length:  22.166"

Travel length:  6.500"

 

The only specs I could get from KYB:

1985 Toyota MR2 (AW11 front) KYB GR-2 363045

Compressed Length 15.55"

Extended Length 22.05"

Travel 6.5"

 

 

To me, this is a good indication that when measuring struts, you don't include the threads, and thus only measure to the "shoulder" on the piston rod.

 

 

Here are some pics showing the difference between the Tokico HZ3038 and the KYB GR2 363045:

 

The GR2 is actually 1/6" longer in body than the Tokico.  You can shave the shim at the bottom of the GR2 strut to shorten it, but you will only get about a 1/4" or so. 

 

015.jpg

017.jpg

016.jpg

014.jpg

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I just got back from Autozone.  I went down to measure the 1983 Datsun 280ZX (front) Gabriel part# G44869.  Here is what I found:

 

Original Post:

1983 Datsun 280ZX (front) Gabriel part# G44869
Compressed Length: 15.650"
Extended Length: 21.360"
Travel Length: 5.710"

 

My measurements including the threads:

Body length:  15.000"

Compressed Length:  16.875"

Extended length:  23.375"

Travel length:  6.500"

 

My measurements to the top mount shoulder:

Body length:  15.000"

Compression length:  15.875"

Extended length:  22.375"

Travel length:  6.500"

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More KYB research:

Just to re-iterate KYB and Monroe measures to the "shoulder" or "bumper or lockout contact" when measuring extended length (not the end of the threads). The following specs are directly from KYB and Monroe, and they match my actual measurements.

Also, I've found this site to sell these inserts at the lowest cost: http://thmotorsports.com/

KYB:

1985-89 Toyota MR2 (AW11 front) KYB Excel-G/GR-2 363045
Compressed Length 15.55"
Extended Length 22.05"
Travel 6.5"

1985-86 Toyota MR2 (AW11 rear) KYB Excel-G/GR-2 363046
Compressed Length 14.61"
Extended Length 21.38"
Travel 6.77"

1987-89 Toyota MR2 (AW11 rear) KYB Excel-G/GR-2 365061
Compressed Length 13.86"
Extended Length 20.31"
Travel 6.45"

1990-95 Toyota MR2 (SW20 front) KYB Excel-G/GR-2 365064
Compressed Length 13.66"
Extended Length 19.57"
Travel 5.91"

1990-95 Toyota MR2 (SW20 rear) KYB Excel-G/GR-2 365100
Compressed Length 14.56"
Extended Length 21.33"
Travel 6.77"

1990-95 Toyota MR2 (SW20 front) KYB AGX 765015

Body 13.25"

Compressed Length 14.02"
Extended Length 20.35"
Travel 6.33"

1990-95 Toyota MR2 (SW20 rear) KYB AGX 765016
Compressed Length 14.92"
Extended Length 21.73"
Travel 6.81"

 

MONROE:

 

I noticed the OP omitted "at bumper or lockout contact" on his original post of the Monroe Specs.  So I'm reposting those Monroe specs with that caveat.  And I added the different struts for the 1987-1989 rear.  Also take notice again, how different manufacturers have different specs for the same struts applications.

 

1985-89 Toyota MR2 (AW11 front) Monroe OESpectrum 72880
Body type: T2
Body length: 14.500"
Compressed length: 15.750"
Extended length: 22.125" (at bumper or lockout contact)

Travel length: 6.375"

1985-86 Toyota MR2 (AW11 rear) Monroe OESpectrum 72881
Body type: "special mount"
Body length: 13.750"
Compressed length: 14.750"
Extended length: 21.250" (at bumper or lockout contact)

Travel length: 6.500"

 

1987-89 Toyota MR2 (AW11 rear) Monroe OESpectrum 73238
Body type: T3
Body length: 13.50"
Compressed length: 14.250"
Extended length: 21.125" (at bumper or lockout contact)

Travel length: 6.875"

 

1990-95 Toyota MR2 (SW20 front) Monroe OESpectrum 73204
Body type: T3
Body Length:13.125"
Compressed length: 13.625"
Extended Length: 20.125" (at bumper or lockout contact)
Travel Length: 6.500"

 

1990-95 Toyota MR2 (SW20 rear) Monroe OESpectrum 73255
Body type: T3
Body length: 14.000"
Compressed length: 14.500"
Extended length: 21.500" (at bumper or lockout contact)

Travel length: 7.000"

 

 

Here is a visual of the Tokico HZ3038, next to the KYB GR-2 363045, next to the KYB Excel-G/GR-2 363045

 

001.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

So with all this info is there still a manufacturer that makes an adjustable front 280ZX insert? 

 

I sure cannot find any....

 

 

Yes, the Tokico Illumina TOBZ3038http://thmotorsports.com/tokico/tokico_shocks_illumina_series/tobz3038/i-526639.aspx

The pic is incorrect, but I've seen that error a lot. They will be what you need.

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So with all this info is there still a manufacturer that makes an adjustable front 280ZX insert? 

I sure cannot find any....

 

If you want to go with un-cut 280zx housings and coilovers, but you want a 1" drop;

 

You can use the KYB AGX 765015 for 1990-1995 MR2.

 

You will need a 1.5" shim at the bottom (either washers, or round aluminum stock, etc), and like I said, you will also need coilovers, because the top threads are totally different than the Nissan units. 

 

Tokico HP HZ3038 280zx next to the KYB AGX 765015 MR2

 

015-1.jpg

014-1.jpg

013-1.jpg

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I've got uncut 280zx struts with the ground control /T3 conversion I installed back in 2010. 
The inserts were stock tokico parts from the pick n pull '79 donor car, and they have been ok if not a bit bouncy on 200lb 10" eibach springs. 
Ride height is right where I want it, but could go about 1" lower when I get the rear crossmember mods taken care of.. 

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  • 2 months later...

After talking to Gabe at T3, he recommend that the GR-2 or Koni adjustables are the best combination with the 200# spring rate.  He believes the KYB AGX will be too stiff even at the lowest setting for any spring rate under 350#..?...  I will try mine out and report on this after some driving time. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Klassic......amazing write up......thx again for the info.....

 

 

Your welcome, and thank you.  Obvoiusly I was just taking over where the OP left off, but I try to give as much detail as I can when I report on what I come across in my Datsun adventures. 

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  • 1 year later...

Hi,

i am new in this community.

 

I have a problem to solve: I drive a Datsun 510 from before 7/71. Because i want to lower this car I have bought the Nismo competition springs for PL510 after 7/71.

The spring does suit, but it is too short for the long standard shock. The spring is jumping up and down when I have installed it.

 

Now I have heard about the Tokico Blue series shocks with a shorter stroke.  I need a pair of front shocks, where the stroke is round about 4 cm shorter than with the standard shock.

 

Can you recommend me a shock, which will work? Is there a shock, which suits AND has a shorter stroke?

 

Thanks to the community.

CafeZX

 

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I think you are talking about the front of the car??? If so the front spring and 'shock absorber' are combined as one unit called a McPherson strut. Saying shock absorber can confuse it with the rears which really are shock absorbers that are bolted on. The strut is oil filled, with a damper mechanism inside with valves and springs to regulate the shock absorbing. When the 510 strut dampers get old and ineffective most owners remove the oil and the insides and replace with a cheaper 'dry' strut 'insert' of the correct length.

 

You say "The spring does suit, but it is too short for the long standard shock. The spring is jumping up and down when I have installed it."

 

This would indicate that when the car is sitting, the spring is loose on the strut and can be moved up and down by hand?? Am I understanding this correctly?? If this is true then the weight of the car had completely compressed the strut damper and is resting on the top of the strut tube. Effectively bottomed out. No shortening of the strut insert (or shock) will help this.

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Hi King Rat,

 

thank you. Sorry for my "german-english". Yes, I mean lowering the front. No, it does mean the following.

 

Basically the springs do suit. If the 510 is sitting, there is no problem. A problem will arise, when the wheels looses the ground. In this case, the spring will jump out of the plates, because there is no basic tension, even because the spring is too short for this.

 

The solution: Shorter shocks. This could be for ex a Koni with a rebound, or a Datsun 280ZX shock with a shorter stroke. Now I hope, there is a shock in the market, which is around 4 centimetres shorter when it will max. drawn out. As I now so far, there is a Gabriel shock, that has a stroke which is arround 2,5 centimetres shorter than the standard shock of my Datsun 510.

 

Yes, it will be possible to make a rebound in the koni shocks, and I can use these really short and hard Nismo competition shocks in my standard 510 struts. But it costs much money. Better would be: Sport shocks for Datsun 280ZX which I could use without manipulating them.

 

Greetings from Germany (near Stuttgart, or simply "Mercedes City")

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