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mklotz70 NL320


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I have another, great running E1 that will go in it for now. Once that is in and I have it running, I will pull it back out to do a bit of cleaning and run new lines for the brakes and clutch. I'm guessing that pwr plant will be in there until next year. We'll see. But, since it's in the shop now, I should be able to drive it to Canby. :)

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tdaaj......That would be awesome if you had one there too!!!! Even if you have to tow it! SJeff64 has been hinting at his being ready, but I haven't heard anything solid about it.

 

Yep.....has an E1 in it right now that barely runs. The E1 that's waiting runs awesome!

 

Body is pretty straight, but it's has some bondo work done over the rear wheel wells which will have to get redone at some point. Other than that, the floor boards are the only real rust problem.

 

I can probably handle some more pics but I doubt they'll be too exciting at this point :)

 

 

Besides......I don't want to post pics of all the changes....there won't be anything to look at when it hits Canby :)

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I totally hear that Mike, I waited until after Canby last year to post all my progress on my truck. Man, this year is gonna be something; 2) 320's or maybe 3) and a couple of 620's with ka24's! Can't wait, I think mine might be on a trailer again this year though.

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This is partly an update, partly a test to see how this works :)

 

Okay...this hasn't been completely proven yet, but it's 90% :)

 

PalisadesPark(James) and I were talking about this months ago.....could an L series dizzy be mounted up to an E series motor....or in his case a J series. James hasn't had time to play with it yet, but he did call me the other day and say that he thought it would be a matter of simply changing the drive coupling on the end of it.

 

Well, I got the E1's on to the eng stands and had a couple extra min to play with the idea. I didn't put the calipers to it, but it looks like it will work just fine. The shaft is a bit shorter on the EI dizzy, but I think it engages just fine. I should mention that that E1 came out of a '65 L320 and the mounting for the dizzy is a bit different than whats on the '64 E1.

 

First, the stock dizzy.

E1Alta1.jpg

 

Much different drive coupling than the L series dizzy. You can see the L series end in pic 7.

E1Alta2.jpg

 

E1Alta3.jpg

 

 

The L series has the "cup" around the end of the shaft. Some are plastic, some are metal, but they do the same thing.

E1Alta4.jpg

 

 

Couplings removed off of each dizzy. Everything still looks pretty close :)

E1Alta5.jpg

 

 

The slot wouldn't allow the bolt to go back in, so I had to file it just a bit...approx. 1/16"? You'll need the metric bolt from the EI dizzy since the stock one is SAE.

E1Alta6.jpg

 

E1Alta7.jpg

 

 

The stock drive coupling went back onto the EI dizzy very nicely :) There's a small amount of endplay(don't forget the shim or you'll have a lot!), but I don't think it's anymore or less than all dizzy's have.

E1Alta8.jpg

 

 

Okay....here it is mounted up. The drive coupling engages....I'll have to measure how much, but I think it's close to 1/8"....so that should be plenty. The dizzy is in a different orientation than the stock one. It would be the same if the adj. plate could be flipped over. It has a raised area that goes over the adj screw. If I cut the plate or fab a new one, I can put the vac adv back on top.

E1Alta9.jpg

 

E1Altaa1.jpg

 

 

Okay.... I won't know how this turns out until I get the motor back in and fired up.....which won't be for a few weeks most likely.

 

****edit****

 

Okay...it's weeks later, but I thought I would squeeze the rest of the dizzy info into this post to keep it in one spot.

 

Works awesome!!!! Strongest spark I've ever seen!!

 

I ended up using a different EI dizzy since I couldn't get the vac adv to come out. Here's some pics of the tear down, glass beading, and then results. The only other thing I had to do was to go back and file the slot in the plate even more than I showed before. With all the adjustment retarded as far as possible, it still has the timing advanced to the last timing mark farthest from the TDC mark. That's okay...a little extra advance shouldn't hurt anything.

DCP_6742.jpg

 

DCP_6743.jpg

 

DCP_6744.jpg

 

DCP_6745.jpg

 

DCP_6748.jpg

 

DCP_6749.jpg

 

DCP_6750.jpg

 

DCP_6751.jpg

 

DCP_6752.jpg

 

 

EDIT*************** adding this for clarity :)

 

I guess I forgot to add this info to this thread back when I did it...I know that because the pics were not loaded to my photobucket...so, for those that find this and want to follow....here's the rest of the info. In fact, Charlie69 is creating a pdf and word file that consolidates all this info. He asked me to check them over, that's when I realized I didn't have this posted. Anyway.....

 

 

The timing was advanced beyond stock settings when I first did this mod. I went back months later and re-clocked the drive gear to move the vac adv away from the oil filter housing enough that I could retard the timing to factory specs. You'll have to pull the sleeve out first...that took some creative prying. The sleeve captures the drive gear so that it won't pop off the cam when the dizzy is pulled. With the sleeve out of the way, I had to find a creative way to grab the drive gear. It took me a couple of times to get it where I wanted it, partly because I pulled it all the way out for these pics! :) I think I moved it two teeth. One was enough to retard the timing some, but not enough to get it all the way down or have any extra adjustment. At least, that's my best memory of it....I did this back in 2008! :)

 

OH! And be careful when you are moving that drive gear around that you have a firm hold on it....I'm pretty sure that if you drop it in the engine, it will fall into the oil pan!!!!

 

DCP_8707.jpg

 

DCP_8709.jpg

 

DCP_8710.jpg

 

DCP_8711.jpg

 

DCP_8712.jpg

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okay.....that was sweet!!!! I had used photobucket for the first time and did this post on Old Datsun Pickup Lover's forum. I did a cut/paste of the posting I made and it transferred perfectly!!! Awesome!! I miss not seeing the pics in the post, but it saved me a ton of time not having to upload to two different forums.

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If you ad your link with the brackets like so...

piclink.com

 

it will show up in the post as a pic.

Also photobucket makes it easy, as you can copy the IMG Code (third selection below the pic in your album) and it does the brackets for you ;)

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no not a vg30 this year but if If I can get it done in time(and it is looking really good)it will be running a Turbo A-14 with fuel injection w/ megasquirt controler

and at the very least discs on the front and duel master cylinder(power)f/r adjustable control. now if I justhad a descest windshield!

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That is a sweet upgrade, How did you know it would work Mike? Wait something tells me you didn't want it to :D I think you wanted to use some of your fancy tools :D

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Okay....I posted this to ODPL so I thought I'd put it here too. James and I were toying with the idea months ago. Not sure if that was the start of the idea...doesn't matter at this point :)

 

I'll try that other photobucket option you guys are talking about. Did someone change the thread for me?? The pics show up.......maybe Ice did it for me :)

 

::::

I'm not going to be firing this up for a few weeks, but after I pressure washed the eng today, I pulled the dizzy back out and did some measuring. I took pics, but there's not much reason to post them. I wanted to get this info out so that others could do this swap instead of waiting for me.

 

The measurements say that it's a perfect fit!!!! The dizzy base that goes into the block is exactly the same size. The dia. of the shaft that the couplings go on are the same size. The end play is about .025, but I don't think that is too much.....if someone knows better, please let me know.

 

The shaft on the EI dizzy is about .100 shorter, but the stock coupling fully engages in the drive piece in the engine... which is .200. The shaft is long enough to go past the tapered section in the hole, so....basically....it should work just fine.

 

When installing the dizzy, it sits up .200(1/5th of an inch...so more than an 1/8") until you line up the drive coupling....then it drops in nicely. There is still .025 end play in the shaft when the dizzy is seated, which means that it's not bottoming out, which would cause binding. I confirmed everything with the calipers.......so.......

 

I'm completely convinced that the L series EI dizzy will work in the E1, with the coupling swap outlined above! :)

 

According to Bre620, the E1's and J series motors can interchange dizzies.....so, that means that this swap should work for those out there with J series motors!

 

The only thing left it to see if the plate allows enough adjustment to get it timed correctly. If not, a different plate or a fabbed plate will fix that. The plate is the easy part now that we know the dizzy is a perfect fit! :)

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Actually Ice......I didn't want to have to try to find points for a 320! I remember PacCoast talking about the trouble he had. Besides....I've got several EI dizzy's laying around.....why not throw one in :)

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