Gibby Posted January 15, 2012 Report Share Posted January 15, 2012 alright. i had issues with my truck starting. somewhat narrowed it down to my starter going so i bought a new one. the day after my battery wouldnt hold a charge. so i bought a new alternator as well. and battery still isnt holding a charge. (battery is only a few months old) replaced a ground wire to the alternator and made sure everything was hooked up right x5 over. cant figure out this issue as to why my battery isnt getting charged. all the wires seem in decent shape. replaced the only frayed wire we saw. any suggestions? Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted January 15, 2012 Report Share Posted January 15, 2012 checked water level? checked battery with meter? Manuel? tried push starting it? Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted January 15, 2012 Report Share Posted January 15, 2012 Voltage regulator!!! With the truck running check the voltage across the battery terminals. Should be 13.5-15V at idle. Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted January 15, 2012 Report Share Posted January 15, 2012 checked battery with meter? This vvv is a much better explanation of this ^^^ Voltage regulator!!! With the truck running check the voltage across the battery terminals. Should be 13.5-15V at idle. Quote Link to comment
laotsu Posted January 15, 2012 Report Share Posted January 15, 2012 fuse block, soak it in vinegar and scrub it. i hadall the same issues with my truck and that with all new fuses cleared it all up. Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted January 15, 2012 Report Share Posted January 15, 2012 fuse block, soak it in vinegar and scrub it. i hadall the same issues with my truck and that with all new fuses cleared it all up. not a bad thing to check on, my 620 wouldnt start one morning and this is what i tracked it back to Quote Link to comment
Gibby Posted January 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2012 yea tried the voltage meter. reads around twelve usually. even when the truck is running and you unplug the the positive it should stay on. mine dies instantly.and i havent noticed anything fried. except a fuse. replaced it and same thing. it all looks like everything should go where it should. even took pictures before so i knew where and how to hook it up. the connections all seem proper. dad is saying it could be a relay. but i have no real way of actually checking each wire for voltage. or possably a bad ground??? Quote Link to comment
Gibby Posted January 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2012 the truck starts perfect. and stays on beautifully. the battery just isnt being charged while its on. Quote Link to comment
Skib Posted January 15, 2012 Report Share Posted January 15, 2012 do you have this kind of cable ends? Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted January 15, 2012 Report Share Posted January 15, 2012 Yea, you still havent mentioned the voltage regulator... They go out. Heck, just replaced one on a friends 521, and then the new one went out. They can fail and not let the alt charge properly. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted January 15, 2012 Report Share Posted January 15, 2012 So too can a wiring problem cause the exact same symptoms. I wouldn't buy yet another new part until I tested it and found out which part is bad. Test the system, it's easy and costs nothing. 1. With engine OFF, key OFF measure voltage at ALTERNATOR A terminal (or BAT terminal) and alternator case. If you get the same voltage as at the battery terminals it's good. If you get lower voltage, you have a wiring problem. 2. Unplug the T-connector and start the engine. Put your Voltmeter on the battery terminals. Jump a wire from alternator BAT to the F terminal of the alternator. If the voltage jumps up, the alternator is working. CAUTION: Don't let the voltage go over 17volts. If the voltage doesn't change, you got a bad alternator (new ones can be bad too). Reconnect the T-connector. 3. If the alternator worked when jumpered, now test the wiring from the regulator. Unplug the voltage regulator and start the engine. * Internally regulated alternator: In the harness regulator connector jump the White-with-black-stripe wire to Battery +. If the voltage jumps up, thats's good. if it doesn't, the wiring harness is bad somewhere. * Externally regulated alternator: skip this step 4. Check the harness feed wires. The White wire should read 12V when key is OFF. If not, there is a wiring problem somewhere. Between the White wire and the Black wire you should have 12V. If not you have a ground problem. With KEY ON engine OFF, check that White/blue stripe wire has 12V. 5. If all the above checks out, replace the voltage regulator. Quote Link to comment
Gibby Posted January 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2012 do you have this kind of cable ends? yea i do same one Quote Link to comment
Gibby Posted January 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2012 Yea, you still havent mentioned the voltage regulator... They go out. Heck, just replaced one on a friends 521, and then the new one went out. They can fail and not let the alt charge properly. yea i just replaced it a few days ago. Quote Link to comment
Skib Posted January 16, 2012 Report Share Posted January 16, 2012 yea i do same one replace them with the molded ends. there liable to corrode under the insulation where you cant see it. Quote Link to comment
Gibby Posted January 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2012 had the alternator tested alone. off the truck. its good. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted January 17, 2012 Report Share Posted January 17, 2012 I had an issue with my ign. light being on even though it was charging, I replaced the alternator, voltage regulator, I checked everything, so I finnaly took the light out of the dash, put a voltage meter under the hood and drove it till it finnaly gave up a year later. The reason for this story is, I then went out and bought a 1980 internally regulated alternator and installed it, then I wired the voltage regulator plug like this with the wires connected properly, put the light back in the dash, and have not had an issue since. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted January 17, 2012 Report Share Posted January 17, 2012 Is there a blown Fuse????? clean contacks if yes fix that first. alternator is good. you said yes. If you tryed a new volt reg then I think your losing a field sense of what ever you want to call it. For me It was the loose connection in back of the instrument panel. I just reconnected it and it stoped blowing my fuse.I guess it make s a loop of some sort back to the alternator field circut as I took my alternator in to be tested at NAPA, also and tryed another and it still didnt work in my 521. Then I know it was the truck but wires were fine. so figured corrossion or loose connection if you meter says 12volt while running then dont drive it cause your just draining your battery. If you do this to many time then the the battery will also go bad (Like a OPTIMA, they really bad) Make sure they load test the battery Some places just spin them up to see 14volt then put a little load it just kills it Quote Link to comment
laotsu Posted January 19, 2012 Report Share Posted January 19, 2012 I swear it sounds like your Fuseblock, I had all unblown fuses and replaced an alt, volt reg and battery before Zi cleanded the damn thing. No I have no maore electrical issues. Quote Link to comment
Skib Posted January 19, 2012 Report Share Posted January 19, 2012 I swear it sounds like your Fuseblock, I had all unblown fuses and replaced an alt, volt reg and battery before Zi cleanded the damn thing. No I have no maore electrical issues. never hurts to soak em in vinegar for a while even if you dont have problems :lol: Quote Link to comment
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