Duncan's 71 "Oz" Goon

[Duncan]

New Years Resolution time.

 

Can't put it off any longer, so today was the day to drop the fuel tank and start getting the sender working correctly.  

 

 

I'm going to cut an access hole North of the urethane vent tube appx 2"x2" and start bending the sender float arm so it freely goes from the bottom to the the top of the tank.  I plan on using water and some alligator jumper clips with the tank on the ground to be sure it's working properly and reading the entire sweep of the gauge.

 

Once done and working like it should, I can tig weld the piece I cut out back on the tank.

 

I should have checked it prior to welding it up last time, but shit happens....

 

Anyway, the tank is currently out in my backyard for a few days to air out all the gas fumes before I start cutting and welding 😯

 

 

[rosso]

I love how your posts are so timely for what I need to know about my '72 wagon and next step on my journey with the carburetored VG33 swap.

 

My car has been sitting for probably 18 years with no idea how much if any gas is in the tank or what condition the inside of the tank may be in. I just got a key to the locking gas cap so I could at least add gas when ready.

 

How hard is it to get the tank out?  How best to go about checking it - any suggestions?

 

Thanks and keep up the fabulous job you are doing on your car.

[KELMO]

Duncan the sender bender.

 

Bwahahahahaha

 

 

Wagon tanks aren't that hard to get out, its the getting them back in that is difficult.

[Duncan]

12 hours ago, rosso said:

My car has been sitting for probably 18 years with no idea how much if any gas is in the tank or what condition the inside of the tank may be in. I just got a key to the locking gas cap so I could at least add gas when ready.

 

How hard is it to get the tank out?  How best to go about checking it - any suggestions?

 

 

I've only worked on my wagon, and it's an import model, and mine doesn't have all the evap stuff on it inside the quarter panel.  There should be a drain plug on the bottom of the tank.  I would definitely drain it out and see how bad the fuel looks.  I imagine if there's any in there, it would be pretty ugly and smell/look like varnish. If you're going to remove the tank, it should be empty, anyway..

 

Four bolts hold the tank in, two in the rear and two in the front.  You have to disconnect the main filler tube on the side, and any attachments at the top of the tank. (fuel line to carb, vent line, and fuel sender) You can get to the fuel sender connections through the access plate on the cargo floor.

 

It's actually not hard to to get it free, but you do have to fiddle with it a bit to get the various things free of the tank.  I used my floor jack under it to drop it down just enough to get in there and undo the connections at the top of the tank.  I got rid of the molded rubber filler tube a long time ago, and getting my custom one loose was a bit of a hassle, but it was doable.

 

Fortunately, when I originally pulled the tank there wasn't really any rust in it.  I stripped everything off of it, and put it in a hot tank for a day or two and called it good.  That's all mine needed.

 

 

 

 

Edited January 7, 2020 by Duncan

[rosso]

Thanks, I will find the drain plug and see what is in the tank. I have so many parts in the back that getting to the tank will probably have to wait until I have the VG in and and all the suspension and other parts back on the car. I have a really tiny garage to work in so the cargo area has become a storage unit. 🙂

 

[Duncan]

2 hours ago, rosso said:

Thanks, I will find the drain plug and see what is in the tank. I have so many parts in the back that getting to the tank will probably have to wait until I have the VG in and and all the suspension and other parts back on the car. I have a really tiny garage to work in so the cargo area has become a storage unit. 🙂

 

 

You really don't need to get to into the hatch area to take out the tank.

 

 

The rear access plate is the rear one near the hatch opening.  (The one closer to the back seat is my battery box and not factory)

 

You really don't have to take it off or empty out the cargo area.  You can lower the tank just a small bit and reach the sender easily enough.  The various lines and tubes require a bit more work, and they can only be reached from under the car.

 

When you climb under the car and check it out, it's pretty simple really.  The hard part is fighting all the old stiff, brittle hoses that have been on the car forever...

 

 

 

 

Edited January 8, 2020 by Duncan

[Duncan]

12 hours ago, KELMO said:

Duncan the sender bender.

 

 

I do play a Fender, and my sender is in the bender....

 

I'm killin' me.....

[Duncan]

 

I'm thinking I may have a Z fuel sender in my wags.   It reads from 0 to 130 ohms.  Anyway I made it work, and I'm using it.

 

With a good light and an inspection mirror, I was able to see enough into the tank and bend the sender enough to where it moves up and down freely.  I didn't need to cut a section out, thankfully.  After some fine-tuning, (bending) when the tank has 1 gallon left, the needle is just slightly to the left of the first mark at the "E" side of the gauge. 

 

When the tank is full, it shows about 3/4 full on the gauge.  I'm not overly concerned where it shows as full, but it's nice to know when it shows close to empty, that side of the gauge is accurate..  

 

I helped contribute to California's water shortage after filling and emptying the tank multiple times today.  I feel so guilty...

 

I scuffed up the tank rather well sliding it in and out under the car multiple times, so I'm going to repaint the bottom half of it and reinstall it this week.   I've been more-or-less dreading doing this project for months, and I'll be glad to have it done.

 

     

 

 

Edited January 12, 2020 by Duncan

[Duncan]

Got this painted and looking sexy again.  I was able to drive it out to Cars and Coffee in San Clemente last Saturday, and had a great time.

 

 

I'm having more medical issues, so my plan is to drive the wagon more, and work on it less while the docs get me tuned up again. 

 

I just got my Medicare card the other day, so I must be getting old!

 

 

[mrbigtanker]

Shit you will be fine. Youngster 

[Duncan]

.

 

 

          

 

 

Edited January 25, 2020 by Duncan

[Duncan]

Wish this software had the ability to delete posts...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited January 25, 2020 by Duncan

[Duncan]

My pretty painted valve cover is leaking just a little bit from the cap.  I have two stock oil filler caps, and they both seep a little bit.

 

Is there supposed to be some sort of gasket or possibly a urethane-type of ring (like an oil pan drain plug) for the cap?

 

Neither of my two stock oil filler caps have anything like that, so I have no idea if they were never there, or possibly missing on both.  Can anyone clue me in?  Thanks!

 

 

 

Edited May 14, 2020 by Duncan

[Duncan]

It's been a while, and haven't had much of an update to this thread..

 

 

I've just been driving this thing and enjoying it.  Before the stay home order, I was going to Cars and Coffee in San Clemente pretty regularly.  That is a HUGE gathering with 300-400 cars weekly.  Wagons are still gaining popularity with the hot rod guys, and the car garners some serious attention when I take it out there.  People are always curious about it, and it's a good time.  I like that one because they also have a later start time.  I don't much like having to be anywhere at 7:00am anymore...

 

The car has also been very dependable.  I've made 200 mile trips in it, and feel I could pretty much drive it anywhere with few worries.  I have a stock radiator in it with an electric fan, and it does get a little too warm for my liking in stop and go traffic when the outside temp is 80 degrees or above.  I was thinking about a Koyorad aluminum rad for it, but I think I'm going to take the old one to a radiator shop first, and have them check it before I do anything.  It might just have a small clog in it.

 

I went through another major surgery in March but came through it again in decent shape.  I'm grateful for that, so I'm just enjoying the car, and trying to have fun with it while I can 🙂 

 

Also, the wife is pretty much insisting I get myself another ride.  I've always wanted a fat fendered rod from the 30's, so I have been seriously looking for a '37-'39 Chevy coupe (not a sedan) and I also like the '35-'40 Ford Coupes, as well.  I wouldn't mind a Bluebird Coupe either, but the prices are getting up in the stratosphere, even for a builder, so I'm not looking to hard for one of those...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited May 14, 2020 by Duncan

[rosso]

To the best of my memory the oil caps did have a seal/gasket. I don't have an L series motor anymore so can't go look but here is a linked photo from the jdm-car-parts.com site:

 

https://jdm-car-parts.com/collections/engine-parts-nissan-datsun-fairlady-z-240z-260z-280z-280zx/products/oil-filler-cap-with-oil-reconditioned-unit-for-datsun-240z-series-2?variant=917152249

 

Edited May 14, 2020 by rosso
added link

[slowlearner]

1 hour ago, Duncan said:

It's been a while, and haven't had much of an update to this thread..

 

 

I've just been driving this thing and enjoying it.  Before the stay home order, I was going to Cars and Coffee in San Clemente pretty regularly.  That is a HUGE gathering with 300-400 cars weekly.  Wagons are still gaining popularity with the hot rod guys, and the car garners some serious attention when I take it out there.  People are always curious about it, and it's a good time.  I like that one because they also have a later start time.  I don't much like having to be anywhere at 7:00am anymore...

 

The car has also been very dependable.  I've made 200 mile trips in it, and feel I could pretty much drive it anywhere with few worries.  I have a stock radiator in it with an electric fan, and it does get a little too warm for my liking in stop and go traffic when the outside temp is 80 degrees or above.  I was thinking about a Koyorad aluminum rad for it, but I think I'm going to take the old one to a radiator shop first, and have them check it before I do anything.  It might just have a small clog in it.

 

I went through another major surgery in March but came through it again in decent shape.  I'm grateful for that, so I'm just enjoying the car, and trying to have fun with it while I can 🙂 

 

Also, the wife is pretty much insisting I get myself another ride.  I've always wanted a fat fendered rod from the 30's, so I have been seriously looking for a '37-'39 Chevy coupe (not a sedan) and I also like the '35-'40 Ford Coupes, as well.  I wouldn't mind a Bluebird Coupe either, but the prices are getting up in the stratosphere, even for a builder, so I'm not looking to hard for one of those...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

How did you manage to get your wife to make you buy another old car? Are there drugs I don't know about I can give mine?

 

[Duncan]

1 hour ago, slowlearner said:

 

How did you manage to get your wife to make you buy another old car? Are there drugs I don't know about I can give mine?

 

 

It was easy, but I don't recommend my method.  All you need to do is have major complications during surgery and have to be revived a few times.  It's effective, but sorta risky 🙂

 

[Duncan]

1 hour ago, rosso said:

To the best of my memory the oil caps did have a seal/gasket. I don't have an L series motor anymore so can't go look but here is a linked photo from the jdm-car-parts.com site:

 

 

Thanks Rosso.  It's very visible in that photo.  Surprisinlgy enough, Rockauto has some aftermarket oil caps from $2 to $5.  I might buy one of those just to see if I can steal a gasket off of one. 

 

 

[slowlearner]

1 hour ago, Duncan said:

 

It was easy, but I don't recommend my method.  All you need to do is have major complications during surgery and have to be revived a few times.  It's effective, but sorta risky 🙂

 

 

Just read your answer to my wife. Like usual, she rolled her eyes and said, "Hmm..."

 

Guess I'm still on the hunt for those drugs. 🤔

[mrbigtanker]

2 hours ago, Duncan said:

 

Thanks Rosso.  It's very visible in that photo.  Surprisinlgy enough, Rockauto has some aftermarket oil caps from $2 to $5.  I might buy one of those just to see if I can steal a gasket off of one. 

 

 

I have an extra. And still waiting for your switch from Japan

[rosso]

4 hours ago, Duncan said:

 

Thanks Rosso.  It's very visible in that photo.  Surprisinlgy enough, Rockauto has some aftermarket oil caps from $2 to $5.  I might buy one of those just to see if I can steal a gasket off of one. 

 

 

I see MrBigTanker has one, which if original I would recommend since it is much better looking than the rockauto ones which are cheap looking. I used one of the Stant ones on my VG33 and it looks like what it is - cheap. The L motor valve covers (especially yours) are so nice - it seems a shame to spoil it with the cheapo ones right on top.

 

Now that you know it needs a gasket, I know that you can make one. You've done such a wonderful job with all the other stuff on your car!

Cheers

[KELMO]

I'll take a look see also. It seems to me OEM is still available...maybe.

[Crashtd420]

14 hours ago, Duncan said:

My pretty painted valve cover is leaking just a little bit from the cap.  I have two stock oil filler caps, and they both seep a little bit.

 

Is there supposed to be some sort of gasket or possibly a urethane-type of ring (like an oil pan drain plug) for the cap?

 

Neither of my two stock oil filler caps have anything like that, so I have no idea if they were never there, or possibly missing on both.  Can anyone clue me in?  Thanks!

 

 

 

 

Does the valve cover have a groove in it?

If so you can use a standard oring there... if not 

Does the cap have a groove in it?

If so I believe this is what your looking for....

http://datnissparts.com/oil-cap-gasket-seal-datsun-nissan-l4-l6-l16-l18-l20b-l24-l26-l28-ld28-naps-z-z20-z22-15270-78500/

 

 

 

[rosso]

I forgot about this great resource (datnissparts.com) - thanks for posting Crash. Contact by email only I think but they have a fabulous amount of old Datsun stuff. On their website if there is a price they have the part - if the price is $0 they do not.

 

vintage@lynchburgnissan.com

 

[Duncan]

Thanks to everybody for the info! 

 

I'll do a google search for that part number and see what I can find.