Duncan's 71 "Oz" Goon

[Duncan]

Jay, thanks for the kind words.  I'm just trying to make mine come out decent, and doing almost all of it myself.  I'm not doing another one to this degree, though..  My last hurrah if you will :) 

 

I hope this all goes back together without adding any patina to your new paint! The car is really coming out awesome though!

Makes mine look like a dog.

[Duncan]

Spent all day on this.  It ain't Chip Foose, but it's looks pretty good again considering how long ago I painted this, and how much dirt and over spray there was in here.

 

[mrbigtanker]

Spent all day on this.  It ain't Chip Foose, but it's looks pretty good again considering how long ago I painted this, and how much dirt and over spray there was in here.

 

 

Fuck chip foose that looks way better.

[Duncan]

Fuck chip foose that looks way better.

 

He's the real deal.  I use smoke, mirrors, and illusion to make my crap look good :)

[Ratwagon1600]

Hi Mark.

 

Probably telling you something you already know, but, while you have the engine out it might be a good idea (if you havent already) to clean out the drain channel that sits in the middle of the firewall.

 

Right in the centre of the engine bay (behind the brass brake splitter block that bolts to the firewall with the 10mm headed bolt) is a drain channel which allows water which comes through the cowl and drin out.

 

On the 510s they are notorious for getting blocked with dirt, twigs, leaves etc and subsuquently rusting out underneath.

 

I usually get a piece of coat hanger wire and scrape all the gunk out, then hose it out as well.

 

If you have already done this, Ill STFU and get out of your thread :)

[Duncan]

RDub, Bro..

 

Don't ever STFU.  I need all the help and advice I can get :)

 

It's been a while, and I can't recall the exact details, but I did remove that entire drain piece.  I don't remember if I used por15 or painted inside of there, but I do remember thinking how strange the design of that was.  The wagon might see an occasional car wash, but will probably never be driven in the rain.  Anyway, I did clean that and put it back.

 

I owned my little Sunny 1200 for 6 or 7 years, and I think it was washed *maybe* twice.  The only time it was ever rained on was at JCCS one morning..  

 

 

If you have already done this, Ill STFU and get out of your thread :)

[datsunfreak]

I owned my little Sunny 1200 for 6 or 7 years, and I think it was washed *maybe* twice.  The only time it was ever rained on was at JCCS one morning..  

 

Same here. Washed my 1200 twice in almost 10 years, never seen rain.  :rofl:

[Duncan]

Just for posterity.  Old pan on the left, new pan on the right.  I got the new pan primered today, and it gets painted tomorrow..

 

 

You can see the skid marks from the centerlink on the old pan...

[hobospyder]

should be no issue now, new one looks about half an inch shorter but that could just be me

[Duncan]

Pulled a few dents and got the new pan painted.

 

 

I used urethane because I was out of the enamel and WOW!  That came out really shiny!   I also have a new detail gun, and it lays the paint on like glass.

 

I had a small oil leak under the car and determined it was the rear crank seal.  Got the replacement and screwed it up on the install, so now I'm waiting on another replacement.  Oh well..

 

 

Spent about 3 hours cleaning this.  The head, fuel pump, and most everything else on this motor was spray painted black.  It really looked terrible.  I got it looking much better, and will respray the block and some of the brackets, etc.  It won't be pristine, but it should be much better than before.  If I decide to stay with this motor, it'll get rebuilt and I'll make it look real nice if and when that time comes.  For now, it'll look okay and not have any leaks.

[Duncan]

Went to San Diego this morning just to paint the engine.  Did the usual primer and paint, then shoot back to OC.  Traffic has been murder on the weekends, and I'm still waiting for my new rear seal. Can't re-assemble it until that seal gets replaced.

 

Got home this afternoon and painted this (hopefully) for the last time. 

 

 

Having NO SUCCESS at all blending newer single-stage paint for repairs or touchups, I stumbled into this.

 

 

This stuff works like a champ.  You do your touch up, then fog this on the dry paint edges and Bob's yer uncle.  I've been griping about this newer paint since I started this and finally found the answer..  

 

The test mule had so many bad blends and touch ups, I'm hoping it's retired from service and goes back on the car permanently :thumbup:

[S30Jay]

There used to be a blending agent you would mix with your paint when you wanted to blend on a panel. That stuff worked good at first but after a few years the blended area would get a weird foggy look to it.

 

I'm not a fan of blending for that reason. I get better results reshooting an entire area.

[Duncan]

In the old days, we'd just reduce the paint in the cup by about 50% then spray the edges.  That didn't work this time.  I tried adding more reducer with the same non-results.  I also have some very expensive PPG blending solvent, and I only got one instance where it looked okay, then could never duplicate that again. 

 

I would agree with spraying a panel, but if you have a 510 wagon shell, it's all continuous body. 

 

When I asked my paint store friend about this newer paint not blending, there were a couple of body shop guys all nodding their head in agreement when I mentioned this paint not being able to blend out.  It's not just this particular paint, it seems to be most all newer single stage paints as far as I can tell.  It's changing dramatically for compliance, and solvent based paint seems to be in it's final days.  I'm pretty sure it'll all be water base in a few years.

 

In the meantime, I have to use the fade out.  Nothing else works.  One of the painter guys at the store mentioned he's had good results with it.  We'll have to see over the long term..     

 

There used to be a blending agent you would mix with your paint when you wanted to blend on a panel. That stuff worked good at first but after a few years the blended area would get a weird foggy look to it.

I'm not a fan of blending for that reason. I get better results reshooting an entire area.

[datsunfreak]

solvent based paint seems to be in it's final days.  I'm pretty sure it'll all be water base in a few years.

 

I thought California had already enforced the switchover? People have told me they already couldn't buy solvent-based paints in California now? 

[Duncan]

They are still available, but it's compliant to Cal Regs.  The reducer has recently been changed, and my paint store buddy says his customers are having problems with it.  It's really a moving target.  I don't know how body shops stay up with it. 

 

I have been gone from Fender about 12 years now, and it was problematic for us back then.  I can't imagine what they go through now.  Fender actually has a booth that permits legal lacquer painting.  We were buying it from back east somewhere, and it was nothing like the older, nitrocellulose.  I have a guitar that I built to match my '55 Caddie, and the lacquer neck is still a bit sticky 15 years later.  I hardly ever play it or take it out of the case, though..   

 

I thought California had already enforced the switchover? People have told me they already couldn't buy solvent-based paints in California now? 

[Duncan]

I seemed to have misplaced my 510 Service Manual.  Can someone let me know what the torque spec is for the clutch pressure plate bolts?

 

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I *think* the flywheel bolts are around 105-110 lbs...ish?

[Ratwagon1600]

Hi Mark.

 

My Aussie manual gives the following torque specs:

 

Pressure plate to flywheel bolt torque...18.8ft/lb

 

Flywheel bolts... 76.0ft/lb

 

Given I have mild paranoia, I usually Loctite these bolts as well.

 

Hope this helps?

[Duncan]

Thanks!  I use Blue Loctite, too.  Don't need a flywheel coming off now :crying:

[Duncan]

Got the pan on, second new rear seal on, painted a lot of brackets, other stuff on the engine, and yadda, yadda, yadda.

 

I'd go South to San Diego this weekend to put the motor back in, but I suspect the traffic over Memorial Day would probably be horrific on the I5 coming back.  Hope to button this operation up next week.

 

[Duncan]

This was a month long detour that I haven't been enjoying too much, but this is back in.  Nearly got it all done today, but still have a few things to button up.  The good news is it should not have any leaks, and the engine bay looks much better.  Oh yeah, and the steering looks like it'll clear now.

 

[Duncan]

I checked this stuff back when I was doing the body work on the doors, and they bolted on and fit reasonably well to the fenders.  Not so much anymore. 

 

I had unacceptable gaps between the front of the doors and the rear portions of the front fenders.  I had to close the gap, so I decided to weld up a 1/2" strip of sheel metal to the fenders and trim the pieces to fit.  I have never done anything quite this drastic before, so I was a bit nervous about trashing a perfectly good set of fenders :)

 

Here's the fender test fit after welding the strip on.  It's fitted very loosely and not trimmed at this point. 

 

 

After a few hours of trimming and careful grinding to fit, it looks a helluva lot better.   I'm not so stressed at this point :)

 

 

Welds are all ground down and the piece is tinned for lead work. Feeling better about this at this point.

 

 

Did some lead slinging and a butt load of filing.  Hope to finish this up tomorrow and plan to do the body work and paint next week,  

 

Then, I get to repeat for the passenger side  :confused:

 

 

I'm not so sure how these Fenders got so Fubar'd, but I feel we made a very good repair using metal and lead.

[Duncan]

Got this fender all blocked out and ready for the "Mr Big Candy Apple Tittie Pink" guidecoat.  Instead of Cactus Green, this is the shit!  It's just too bad I have to sand this off...

 

 

After three+ years my baller primer gun died a noble death.  So I headed over to Harbor Freight and bought the upgraded model for $15.99+ tax!   I shot my whole tool budget for the month, so I have to be cool for another two weeks...

[mrbigtanker]

Wow looking good.

[S30Jay]

You've got a hell of a skill set Duncan. I don't know how you managed to not wreck the fender in the process. Great work! Heartbreaking to see you grind into that beautiful paint though.

 

I think I might have tried slotting the mount holes on the fender.

[Duncan]

Thanks Jay.  Unfortunately, it needed to go back towards the door, and the front part of the fender kind of wraps over the core support, and it was as far back as it was going to go, regardless of the slots. 

 

I have to paint the insides of the fender, too.  Heating the metal for the lead work burned a fair amount of it off.

 

Even with the fender off the car, most people wouldn't notice the welded extension.  It's very subtle from the backside.  I'll see if I can grab a pic. 

 

 

 

 

I think I might have tried slotting the mount holes on the fender.