Duncan's 71 "Oz" Goon

[goes2fast]

I have bought a couple of things from him, no worries!

[Duncan]

I scuffed up my front valence with the intention of spraying sealer and painting it today, but the weather turned on me.  We are getting a very much needed storm out West.  I don't know how much it'll do for our drought, but at this point, any rain is welcome.

 

[Duncan]

Spent a semi-rainy day in San Diego, and we're now working on the dash harness.  Unfortnately, that one had a LOT of splices and some tom-foolery, but it's a little easier fixed than the engine bay harness..  No photos, but it looks like the engine wiring :)

 

After a LOT of trial and error, I finally acquired the technique of getting the door seals to sit properly in the channel on the upper side of the doors.  (Outside of the window frames)  Very frustrating as it's really easy to get them in wrong. 

 

 

 

I didn't get the lower parts glued yet, as that is really a 4-hand operation.  That will be soon.

 

When I get to that point, I have an old hot rod trick for hanging and aligning doors.  That will happen prior to paint.

 

One month to my retirement :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

[Duncan]

I have this entire week off of work, so I am here in lovely San Diego.

 

Both the engine and dash harnesses (is that "harni"?) were repaired, sorted, and ready for testing, so I brought what electrical items I could round up and slapped them in the car.

 

I finally pulled out the original dash speaker.  The cone shows a little wear, but I think I can fix it.  It might be a little shy on bass, tho.. :confused:

 

 

Because I need to test it all and wrap it, we laid the harnesses in temporarily.  The dash harness is laid on the cowl, and we were plugging in connections down through the dash.  It looks like a walking disaster, but other than some errant ground gremlins, it's going well so far.  

 

I know this looks like total chaos, but it's mostly working :)  Note the instrument cluster sitting on the cowl..

 

 

The inside view...

 

 

If you look closely, we routed the rear harness through the seat headrest, then through the steering wheel to achieve the clean, custom look we were after :)

 

Actually, I'm very relieved as I had nigthmares about the wiring in this car.  This is getting over a huge hurdle and once this is done, I can paint the shell and start getting this thing back together.  I'm actually enthused about this car again :w00t:  

[Duncan]

Been meaning to ask: 

 

Does anyone know of a replacement for the clunky 510 parking brake handle?  I'd like to get something that tunnel mounts between the seats.  I think I could use an aftermarket hot rod setup, but they are usually billet and a little $pendy.

 

If anyone has done something similar, please let me know.  Thanks!

[mrbigtanker]

Been meaning to ask: 

 

Does anyone know of a replacement for the clunky 510 parking brake handle?  I'd like to get something that tunnel mounts between the seats.  I think I could use an aftermarket hot rod setup, but they are usually billet and a little $pendy.

 

If anyone has done something similar, please let me know.  Thanks!

 

Check out lokar they make one all black and rather some what in expensive.

[Dantheman]

I think there was a write up on this on the realm or dime quarterly

[Duncan]

Thanks fellas.  I'm still in San Diego and on Sunday, we went to the local import wrecking yard.  There was a 1980 210 wagon there.  I might go back by there and take a look at that.  That entire assembly *might* be a (more or less) straight bolt in. 

[Ratwagon1600]

Been meaning to ask:

 

Does anyone know of a replacement for the clunky 510 parking brake handle? I'd like to get something that tunnel mounts between the seats. I think I could use an aftermarket hot rod setup, but they are usually billet and a little $pendy.

 

If anyone has done something similar, please let me know. Thanks!

Mark.

 

Theres a number of articles on the Interwebz about this.

 

The smart money appears to be on using the floor mounted unit from a Datsun 1200 (n.b. Im not sure if the 120y is the same).

 

This thread from an Aussie website discusses it a bit.

 

http://www.bmsc.com.au/forums/rallying-technical/97-datsun-1600-brakes.html

 

You could possibly have found your solution with the 210 Goon.

 

Quick post edit.

 

If you do go the floor mounted route you may want to consider some additional bracing in the transmission tunnel area where you mount the lever. I know from experience when mounting floor operated hydraulic handbrakes in a couple of Datsun rally cars ive had, if you dont brace that area things tend to flex a little when using the handbrake (mind you, this could also be from pulling the lever a little too hard :) )

[Duncan]

Thanks Jason.

I took a quick look under there AFTER I posted the above, and the wagon rear cable braking system doesn't look like my 1200 at all.  From memory, the 1200 pulls (more or less) in the center of the rear axle using cables, where the wagon pulls from the right side using a couple of mechanical fulcrums (for lack of a better term).  I'm not familiar with the 510/1600 sedans at all, but I think they may be different or possibly closer to the 1200 system.  (I will re-acquaint myself with my 1200 this week)

 

What appears to be the simplest way for a RHD wagon is source a RHD handbrake lever that goes on the driver's side between the seat and the door.  My friend's shop is an Alpine resto shop, and they have the handbrake in that location. 

 

The good thing is, this isn't my highest priority right now :)

 

Anybody know where I can source a heater control valve for the JDM "cold weather" heater?  :crying:

[Ratwagon1600]

Of course, my bad.

 

I forgot the goons had the pivot system.

 

Have you got a pic of the heater part you are after?

[Duncan]

Shit, no problem.  I put an entire new rear cable system on my 1200, and I can't remember what it looks like :) 

 

I've seen pics of the control valve, and the one I have isn't it.  It's a generic unit that works, but you can't use the firewall grommets on the firewall.  I'm going to get a hold of the Aussie fellow that sells all the Datto parts from Japan.  I'm hoping he has a decent used one I can rebuild.

 

Of course, my bad.

 

I forgot the goons had the pivot system.

 

Have you got a pic of the heater part you are after?

[Duncan]

Well, I can say I know the Datsun wiring system in my wags fairly well now.  We tested, wrapped, and installed the harness in the engine bay.  Here's a photo of it after the installation.  Not as stealthy as some I've seen, but you have to look closely to see wires anywhere.

 

Engine bay with harness installed:

 

 

My phone just doesn't like the engine bay with the lighting there.  I'll try to remember my real camera next time.

 

I also tested and wrapped the dash harness.  It all works, save one or two circuits we can't test until we get the engine started, but I'm fairly confident it's good to go.  

 

 

I'm really looking forward to having this wiring harness in the "done" column. 

 

I need to hit the wreckers this week.  Seems I've misplaced the connector and wiring for my matchbox dizzy to the coil.  I'm going to hit the two large yards in Wilmington.  I'll post up if I see anything of interest.

[datsunfreak]

I need to hit the wreckers this week.  Seems I've misplaced the connector and wiring for my matchbox dizzy to the coil.  

 

FYI, the 280Z has a few of these connectors inside the dash. I usually grab them because the underhood connectors turn yellow, but the dash connectors usually look brand new and still white. 

[Duncan]

Thanks John,

That's good to know as I didn't see any 620s, 720s, 200sx or any L20 Datsuns today.  I did see some Z's.  I'll hit a few different yards tomorow.

 

Ironically, we did see a 1980 210 wagon in the San Diego yard, but it didn't dawn on me until I got home that I *think* the late A-Series might use the same matchbox.

 

FYI, the 280Z has a few of these connectors inside the dash. I usually grab them because the underhood connectors turn yellow, but the dash connectors usually look brand new and still white. 

[datsunfreak]

Oh, and I believe these guys sell them new...

 

http://www.vintageconnections.com/

 

 

we did see a 1980 210 wagon in the San Diego yard, but it didn't dawn on me until I got home that I *think* the late A-Series might use the same matchbox.

 

They do.  :thumbup:

[Duncan]

John,

I found a 280zx in the yard today that had a matchbox dizzy.  I grabbed that connector, and the spanky white one under the dash.

 

Thanks (again) for the heads up. 

[Duncan]

place holder :)

[datsunfreak]

I grabbed that connector, and the spanky white one under the dash. 

 

Excellent.   :thumbup:

[Duncan]

Spent the morning buffing the over spray off my Sunny :)  Seems that all the paint and primer managed to have landed on the roof, hood, and the trunk on my Sunny.   It was pretty easy to remove, but I am going to be more diligent about using the car cover from now on.  :crying:

 

Finished up the repairs on the outside of my hood.  I have been so busy with other projects, the hood was temporarily forgotten.  For a nice hood, this one needed quite a few small repairs here and there...It's finally ready for primer tomorrow.

 

 

Need your input here please:  How should I do the underside of the hood? 

 

 

Is filling the gaps between the skin and the bracing with flexible seam sealer a mistake?  I don't want the heat to make it dry and brittle then crack or flake off.

 

Was considering doing the skin sections with Lizard Skin, then painting the bracing to match the car.  (Leaving the Lizard Skin natural)   Another thought was doing all of the above, PLUS primer and paint the Lizard Skin to match.  I could also primer it all, then paint it in one swoop like the factory did..

 

I'm not afraid to go left field here, either.  I could do a two-tone, flames, sparkle paint, or pinstriped too.  It would be fun (IMHO) to have something really different when the hood is opened..

 

You folks have been great with suggestions, so don't be shy.  -Thanks!

[datsunrides]

What I do under the hood is use SEM 2 part urethane foam between the bracing and skin. Epoxy prime then professional undercoat that can be topcoated. (I use Dynapro Dynatron). Topcoat with same paint as rest of car. The nice thing with this is it hides all the little hammer dings from metalwork., and I think it looks good too. I undercoat everything including the braces, but it would look nice with the braces in just paint. Usually when I 'm at this point, I'm just getting tired of sanding and masking and all that shit! I did my Roadster with the braces not undercoated and my 520 with everything undercoated. I'll try and post a couple pics tomorrow.

 

Mark

[Duncan]

Thanks for the info!  I like the urethane foam idea.  I also checked out Lizard Skin's website, and they say it can be topcoated, so chances are good I'll use that then paint it.

 

Not terribly exciting, but very functional!

[Duncan]

Ah, the hits just keep coming!

 

I want to put the dash in with the harness, so I decided I better finish painting the interior.  Starting doing some detail work on the wheel wells and noticed some weird looking spot welds.  It appears a previous owner had drilled about 25-ish or so 1/8" holes in random spots in the wheel wells.  These were sprayed with undercoating on the backside, so they weren't very apparent until I got a dental tool and started poking at them.

 

 

    

 

 

I had already fixed about 10 or so holes on each wheel well, so these new ones bring the total up to about 40-ish extra holes in each one.. I have them all repaired and ready for primer, but it was another two-day detour / repair.  :thumbup:  

 

Ray, I am unequivocally qualified to repair the old mirror holes in your door..

[mrbigtanker]

Sounds good Mark.. You not going to make that all cherry are you those will be covered with material..

[Duncan]

Not going crazy, but I still want them to be straight and presentable.. 

 

Sounds good Mark.. You not going to make that all cherry are you those will be covered with material..