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Duncan's 71 "Oz" Goon


Duncan

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Here ya go Joel.  I used 1/4 bar stock bent to shape with a little acetylene heating.  The specs for this tool are in the factory body manual.  I've also heard of people using breaker bars and other assorted beat, pound, pry or force tools :)

 

 tool.jpg

 

I wana see! :)

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Did a few things today. 

 

Here's how I routed the battery cable from the battery box to the starter.

 

bcab.jpg

 

The end of the front frame rail is right where the cable enters.  I enlarged the hole just slightly. and was able to keep the cable in the frame rail all the way to the engine compartment where it comes out another hole very close to the starter.

 

This is where it exits the frame rail.

 

bcab1.jpg

 

It fits in there, (with a bit of work)  and the cable isn't in the passenger compartment or the outside the car, either. 

 

engharn.jpg

 

My friend Smitty measured the engine compartment, and if you look closely, he laid it out on plywood then drew the strut tower and marked the front of the car so the wires were the correct distance.  We put the harness back to completely stock, and are using the stock horn and headlight relay.  The fuse box will be in the factory location, but the wires and relays will be (mostly) tucked and/or hidden. 

 

I will be there three days next week.  The engine is going back in, then we can temporarily install the harness and test it.  (Along with making some routing choices)  Once tested and routed, I'll pull it back out and will wrap it up with harness tape.  Lots of work, but it should be good once completed.

 

wipemtr.jpg

 

I also put the wiper motor back together.  We made a separate harness for this.  The wiper motor will plug into a connector under the dash and will not run along the cowl.  I'll drill a hole in the firewall and run the wires into the engine compartment.  I know some folks completely move this motor, but I need to spend what little time I have keeping this project progressing.  I can always revisit these items at a later date.  I want to get this damn wagon running and stopping :)

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Thanks guys.  It was a bit of a challenge, but it's all tucked away nicely in the frame rail.  I do have to replace the shrink tubing at the starter end, though.  It got a little fubar'd while making the journey..

I hope you will put a disconnect switch on it in case the cable moves around in there enough to eventuelly rub through the insulation, that would be a nasty fire to try and put out.

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Thanks Fucker!  The motor went back in today, and we're making headway on the engine harness rebuild.  I wish I had the time to clean, paint, and detail the motor out, but I'm planning on swapping it sooner than later..

 

I should have some update pics on Sunday..

 

Hey FUCKER,

 

Just spent a few minutes getting caught up on the build. Very nice....

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Was also considering something like this mounted below the clutch master cylinder,  It's accessible, yet more-or-less out of the way, and (mostly) out of sight.

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-830050

The problem is that you still have the large starter power cable hot all the time going from the back to the front of the car and you can't fuse that large of current draw. The nice thing about the remote solenoid is that the starter cable is only hot during cranking and is automatic with a turn of the key.

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http://www.carid.com/american-bass/300a-circuit-breaker-blister-pack-mpn-abcb300a.html?gclid=CMv2kaS9o8UCFQEGaQod6SIArA

abcb300a_1.jpg

 

Have you thought about a using a breaker? Holds the starter amps, but would open if shorted. Can be closed for diagnostics as it will open again automatically. They come in a ton of ratings, I chose the 300 amp arbitrarily.

 

The button on the left will also open it manually, so it will serve as a starter kill switch like the summit one you posted.

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Thanks for all the suggestions, and please keep them coming.  I actually did order the Summit solenoid in the link above, but I'm still not 100% sure if that's what I'll eventually go with. 

 

Anyway, the motor and trans is back in, and I started hooking things back up.  

 

engbayy.jpg

 

Routed the wiring for the wiper motor.  It looks good from the engine side, but if I need to take out the motor for any reason, I have to remove the connector off the harness :)  Oh well.  cuz racecar

 

wipermtr.jpg

 

I spent WAAAAAYYYYY too much time replacing this air vent tube on the right side.  My original was just awful, and I ran across a NOS one on ebay that was cheap.    I think I spent about 4 hours dicking around getting this thing installed.  I'm looking for a passenger side too, but the existing one is usable.  The passenger side looks much easier to replace.

 

rtvent.jpg

 

The engine harness is nearly completed.  We're hoping to do a temporarily install on it next week.  Once tested and verified working, I can rewrap the entire thing and install it permanently.  Getting that harness completed and installed is a HUGE milestone for me on this project..

 

harnesto.jpg

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Thanks Ray.  Hard to say when it'll run and stop.  Other than the motor, nearly every piece I put back on the car needs cleaning, detailing, or painting, and that takes some time.  There is also a continuous stream of "gotcha" items.  The dash vent tube was a good one.  That took WAY more time than it should have, but shit like that happens all the time.  Once I retire, I can work on a lot of the little details here at the house. 

 

I also need to block out the body once or twice more, guidecoat it, and final sand it before it's ready for paint.

 

I'm trying to make it nice, so I do take the time to (hopefully) get it right the first time :thumbup:  

 

 

Wow Mark looking good. So,when do you think it will be road worthy.

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Thanks for all the suggestions, and please keep them coming.  I actually did order the Summit solenoid in the link above, but I'm still not 100% sure if that's what I'll eventually go with. 

 

Anyway, the motor and trans is back in, and I started hooking things back up.  

 

engbayy.jpg

 

Routed the wiring for the wiper motor.  It looks good from the engine side, but if I need to take out the motor for any reason, I have to remove the connector off the harness :)  Oh well.  cuz racecar

 

wipermtr.jpg

 

I spent WAAAAAYYYYY too much time replacing this air vent tube on the right side.  My original was just awful, and I ran across a NOS one on ebay that was cheap.    I think I spent about 4 hours dicking around getting this thing installed.  I'm looking for a passenger side too, but the existing one is usable.  The passenger side looks much easier to replace.

 

rtvent.jpg

 

The engine harness is nearly completed.  We're hoping to do a temporarily install on it next week.  Once tested and verified working, I can rewrap the entire thing and install it permanently.  Getting that harness completed and installed is a HUGE milestone for me on this project..

 

harnesto.jpg

If you have a spot near your battery box where you can mount that summit switch and access it easily, I would put it there, Make sure the cable between the switch and battery is well protected with grommets and such. You could put it on the ground cable, but some systems, the alternator will still complete the circuit with no ground connected to the battery.

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My front valence from Futofab showed up this week, and I am very happy with it.  I fitted it with some bolts and a few nut inserts.  Once I fitted it, I pulled it off the car and brought it home.  I plan on painting it this week.

 

valence.jpg

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I have a friend in Australia that scanned the wagon schematic for me and it was a small 8.5" x 11" size. 

scheme.jpg

Did I send you this originally, or was it someone else here (cant remember).

 

Reason I ask is, just last night I was relocating piles of stuff from one part of the garage to another and I found a laminated wagon wiring loom schematic. If only I could find the bloody sedan one.

 

Rest of your wagon is looking good.

 

BTW, I should have good quality repro Wagon tailgate badges made in the forseeable future if you need one (or two).

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Did I send you this originally, or was it someone else here (cant remember).

 

BTW, I should have good quality repro Wagon tailgate badges made in the forseeable future if you need one (or two).

 

I got it from MidLifeCrisis (I think that is his handle) on the OzDat board.  We ship each other parts and things occasionally.

 

I actually found a NOS Wagon badge.  Some guy in the Middle East had it.  I bought it off of ebay.  I did a Hail Mary, held my breath, and damn if it didn't show up :)

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