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Duncan's 71 "Oz" Goon


Duncan

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If you don't like the chrome you could always just spray the trim black, so you have adequate sealing, and the blacked look.

 

Wow, never thought of that.   I could scuff it up, primer and paint it. That might work!  Thanks for the suggestion..

 

There was a guy at last week's Eagle Rock swap that had a very nice wagon.  He painted his door handles to match the body, and his tail light bezels were painted black.  It looked really good, IMHO.. 

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That engine bay is tit's. What the hell would we do without Wicked Jester. The man knows his shit....Hell I wouldn't have my wagon if it weren't  for Nelson.

 

The wagon is lookin good FUCKER...

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baye.jpg

 

Cleaned and painted steering box and column, NOS Nabco 15/16" master cylinder, B210 brake booster.  No-name shitty offshore brand clutch master cylinder all installed today. BTW, that master cylinder is for a LHD car as the bleeders are right up against the strut tower on the right side :)  I can bleed it without them, though..

 

Which brings me to this:  Is there a diagram that ACCURATELY shows where the brake lines go?  I have a couple of manuals, and they all have conflicting info.  Considering that I could NOT get much brakes on the wagon while I was driving it, I'm not so sure the previous owner had the lines installed correctly.  Can someone point me to this info on the web somewhere?  Otherwise, I will have to hit up a few buddies and diagram their setups. 

 

Thanks again for your help! 

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mark your more than welcome to look at my wagon my braking system is all stock

 

Thanks Nelson!  I have three different 510 manuals, and none of them show brake line routing for a dual reservoir master cylinder and disc brake front end. 

 

I DID find the correct one at www.carspartsmanual.com  Smitty and I sat down this morning and checked out the one I found online, then we looked at Just Joel's thread where he had the engine out, and we were able to figure out it was correct and matched Joel's wagon exactly.  (This was right after he got it and on page 1 of his build thread)

 

The distro block / proportioning valve is marked as well, and once you see the right diagram, it's not hard to see how it goes.  Using all that, we made all new lines for it.  (Except the long one to the rear axle)

 

Thanks to all and especially Joel for the good photos. 

 

BTW: DO NOT use my setup as a reference!  We faced the distro block the opposite way for greater ease and installation of the brake lines.  

 

brklines.jpg

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i also recently discovered that there are some pieces that attach to the firewall for the heater hoses. Mine were missing, and looking at all the engine bay pics recently, I discovered I need them.  They look like pipe nipples (don't know the correct term) and if anyone has some they can part with, I would love to purchase a pair of them.  Thanks!

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Thanks Nelson.  The rear line is okay.  I would have replaced it, but we were running over to NAPA and buying pre-made lines and modified them.  I think NAPA only goes up to 40" in length, so I need to order some longer tubing for the rear one.   

 

I might just pull it out, straighten it, clean it, and bend it a little nicer, then call it good..  :thumbup:

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Just a quick heads up.  I had my steering box on a shelf and needed to refill it with oil.  I put a socket on the filler plug and the son of a bitch twisted in half and immediately broke off.  The damn thing is plastic!  Why on Earth would anyone use plastic for that plug is beyond me.  I was able to get the broken piece out fairly easy with an easy out, but what a shit material to make it out of..

 

The threads are 16mm x 1.25.  That's a really large size with a very fine thread.  I'm going to make a brass plug, but the only place I could find a die in that size was on ebay.  The only sellers were in China!

 

I bought one for $5.50, and that included shipping from China!  It's so cheap, I'm hoping the die will be able to cut the threads into the brass.  I only really need it to work once :)

 

Anyway, just a heads up on that!      

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Nissan had a part number for a brass replacement and I believe later models came with them standard... Junk yard maybe?

 

We just went through this in another thread, that's not only a plug but a vent. Make sure it has a means of exchanging atmosphere inside the box with free air.

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There was actually enough threads on the remaining piece to get it finger tight.  I cleaned it and noticed the vent.  My friend has a lathe, so we can chuck it up drill a vent hole on the brass replacement.

 

I hope my big $5.00 from China will cut the threads :)  That's gotta be a cheap-ass die..

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My engine bay harness was an absolute disaster, so I wasn't terribly excited about starting that project.  The PO had wrapped it mostly in electrical tape which is a very large mistake if you ever wish to take it apart.  I had to remove a lot of tape just to remove it from the car.  I spent two hours just cleaning the sticky tape residue off the wires..

 

Photo as removed:

 

harn.jpg

 

I spent most of the day yesterday removing the electrical tape :(  Then we laid it out in the empty engine bay and used tie wraps to hold the sections together where harness tape would be used.  I didn't get terribly far, but I started making repairs and reconnecting wires that were cut or spliced together.

 

The dash harness looks to be in much better shape, and the rear harness is already done and re-wrapped in new harness tape.

 

Hopefully, the last "Oh Shit" project on this car:

harn1.jpg

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Couple of other things.  My friend hit the 1/2 off junkyard sale last weekend and found a steering box fill plug for me (apparently) off some Datsun truck he found.  I still have the $5.00 die coming from China, but it's nice to have a spare.

 

I have a friend in Australia that scanned the wagon schematic for me and it was a small 8.5" x 11" size.  I took it to Kinkos, they blew it up about 2 to 3 times larger and laminated it for me for $2.50 or so.  Best money I have spent on the car so far.  Highly recommend this if your looking at wiring.

 

scheme.jpg

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