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Duncan's 71 "Oz" Goon


Duncan

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Finally getting to the point where I can wrap this little project up.

 

Painted the bottom half of the tank today.  Normally, I would hang the tank and paint it all at once, but my wagon is in the garage with no gas tank.  My driveway has a pretty good incline, and I didn't want to try to push the wagon back into the garage by myself..

 

tnkpnt.jpg

 

The mounting flange around the middle of the tank makes a nice paint line divider, so I plan on doing the top tomorrow..

 

This little bastard......

 

accdoor.jpg

 

This WAS the access cover for the fuel sender.  Now it has a stainless piano hinge and is the new fuel filler door.  This piece was dented and not terribly straight.  It took quite a bit of work to get it straightened out.  I also bought some "New and Improved Cal-Smog Primer" which was difficult to work with.   It didn't want to stick to the work, and it has an unusually long cure time.  

 

This piece is going to be painted black and will be seen, so it's gotta be nice.   

 

You'd think a piece that is 5"x5" would be simple, but I've been wrestling with this thing for about a week now.   ?

 

 

 

 

 

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22 hours ago, the510keeper said:

Happy New Year,

the visors use a threaded machine screw with a point, don't use sheetmetal screws you will destroy the treads 

 

Tank looks great, 

 

hurry up i have  a coupe waiting for you 

 

Thanks James.  I think it may be too late for the visor threads.  I haven't installed then yet, but I do remember the passenger side had 1 larger screw that was used. 

 

That was a common occurence on this wagon.  When someone didn't have the right bolt, they jammed sheet metal screws instead.  In hindsight, I should have checked it out BEFORE putting in the headliner, but I'm sure I can come with a fix. 

 

If wagon prices are any indication, I'm pretty sure Coupe prices are out of my range these days ?

 

Happy New Years to you too, and see ya soon!

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The fuel filler project is mostly done. I have the hinge mounted on the door, I just need to attach it.

 

fueldoor.jpg

 

I also suspect that I have to drop the tank again and slightly bend the rod that holds the fuel sender float.  It rubbed ever-so-slightly on the tank, and I think it may be interfering with the reading a bit.  

 

It takes gas now like Stormi Daniels takes d..k.  No problems with fumes or gas smell.  Much better than before.

 

 

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Damn, it seemed to take quite a while, but the tank thing is done.

 

dr2.jpg

 

Getting it in to the upholstery shop to for the carpet and wheel well covers around the end of this month.

 

Still undecided on what to do about the engine.  (refurb or a swap)  But at least the majority of this project is wrapped up.  I'm still looking for a new project that I can drive and restore at the same time.

 

 

 

Edited by Duncan
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  • 4 weeks later...

After dragging my feet for quite a while, I finally got some hair on my ass and decided to put one of these visors in.  It has been a while since I put the headliner in, and I was nervous about poking holes in the headliner and making a mistake.  I did get the driver's side done, and will do the passenger side once I get the passenger seat installed.  I know it sounds kinda silly, but I spent a couple of days on the headliner install and I was sweating bullets having to put holes in it ?

 

BTW, the visor mounting BOLTS are threaded m5x80.  I'm not sure if it's factory, but the clips for the visor tips (next to the mirror) on my car had #8 sheet metal screws in them when they were removed..

 

visor.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

   

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13 hours ago, WAGON JON said:

The whole new gas door thing...ROCKS!! What I need to do! give updates on how accurate the new sending unit accuracy is cuz you don't want to run outta gas with half a tank lol!

 

I HATE running out of gas!

 

It's accurate when it reads low/empty.  The problem is when the tank fills up, the float only rises just a bit until it fouls just ever-so-slightly on the side of the tank.  (It doesn't read higher than about 1/3 of a tank) I need to drop the tank again, and bend the arm just slightly so the float will clear.  So far, the gauge hasn't been a real problem, but I do need to fix it. 

 

I still have quite a few things on my to-do list, and pulling the tank is a pain.  I will get to it though.. 

 

When I get back around to it, I'm gonna test it on the ground filling it with water to make sure it reads properly before I re-install it.

 

ON the plus side, it is a HUGE improvement, and the second filler works like a charm.  I do need to figure out some sort of low profile latch for the door.  It rattles just a bit over larger bumps.

 

 

 

 

Edited by Duncan
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20 hours ago, datsunfreak said:

Dangerous question: Why didn't you do the A-pillars when you did the headliner?

 

They're painted to match, color sanded and buffed, and look really good, IMHO.  I never realized they were done in material at the factory.  They were previously spray painted gray, of course.  I would think that wouldn't hold up real well.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

..

 

 

 

Edited by Duncan
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5 hours ago, datsunfreak said:

 

Yeah, same stuff as the headliner, down about 3-4" below the dash level. Did you use headliner material on the B-pillars or paint those too? 

 

No, I actually made a metal panel to cover the top half of the pillar.  I then covered BOTH of the B-Pillar trim panels in a pebble grain vinyl that match the kick panels.  Also made an upholstered panel that covers the inner rocker panel.  I think it looks rather good myself.  It looks more finished than glued-on material to the metal.  IMHO, of course.  

 

I'll see if I can get some photos..

 

I fully realize that I will lose some points with the judges if I take it to a concours show.  ?

 

 

 

 

Edited by Duncan
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Still slugging away at it...

 

I had my parking brake light come on and stay on a few weeks ago.  Since I don't have the factory brake handle anymore, that didn't make a lot of sense.  I finally pulled the instrument cover off and found the culprit.  Since I had the column cover off, I finally got around to doing a thing or two while it was off.

 

The clamshell wasn't in the best of shape.  I soaked it for a few days in degreaser and while it was clean, the abs plastic looked faded and spotty.  It was cracked in a few places around the screw holes.  

 

clam.jpg

 

I was able to super glue the cracks and splits, then I used my abs plastic paint and shot them.  The stuff has a very nice satin semi-gloss finish and leaves just a slight bit of texture to it.  It's a huge improvement over how it was and matched the dash very well.

 

Also changed this out.

 

lock.jpg

 

My ignition switch really looked like hell.  While not perfect, it's an improvement over the older, rusted one.  I need to re-paint the bezel, but I'm expecting to get a call from my upholstery guy like, yesterday.   I can do this after the car comes back from his shop.

 

key.jpg

 

I bought this years ago and I was trying to remember where I found a RHD lock assembly.  Then I pulled the key out of it.   I perused ebay.au for a few years after I bought the wagon, and bought a lot of a stuff for it as I came across things I needed. (or wanted)  

 

 
clam1.jpg

 

Still have a few things I don't like that are still on the to-do list.  I need to do something about the turn signal lever.  I *assume* it was chromed at one time or another, but I think it's going to be painted black in the near future.   

 

And just for the lulz..

 

I went out for a quick test drive today and I opened the garage door and was kinda shocked when I saw my workbench.  I have a painting project going, a compressor repair going, and needed to get the wagon together to go to the upholsterer. 

 

Tomorrow's project  is definitely get the stuff cleaned up and put away.   :)

 

workbench.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

  

Edited by Duncan
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1 hour ago, mrbigtanker said:

it looks like you did not paint the ring around the ignition tumbler.

 

I did not, sir.  That was the bezel I referred to.  With masking, primer, and paint, it will be a two day deal.  I needed the wagon driving today in case my upholstery guy opens up.  The guy is great, reasonably priced, but he's a 1-man shop working out of his garage, so I have to be patient..

 

I plan on doing it when the wagon comes back home after upholstery.

 

 

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My small battery (like I used in the Sunny) idea didn't work terribly well.  I'm swapping over to a Honda Civic battery which has a small footprint, but is fairly tall.  There is a spot where it will fit under the rear cargo floor near the left rear tire.  I originally had a Civic battery and should have located it there in the first place, but what the hell....  

 

I'm currently doing a rather extensive paint project for someone, but I was able to get down to the shop and get this made for the new battery.

 

batbox.jpg

 

And I think my new upholstery guy abandoned me.  I'm guessing I was small potatoes and not worth his time for smaller jobs.  This is why I try to do as much as I can myself.  I generally don't have the best luck using outside vendors. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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This worked out better than I expected.

 

batboxx.jpg

 

Was planning to cut the opening and bolt the box from the bottom, but I like this better.  I can make a lid that is flush with the box flanges so it won't stick up any higher than the box.  I still have a lot to do to finish this, but I plan on using some not-so-permanent cables to mock it up and get the car running tomorrow. 

 

BTW, this battery fits right between the horizontal floor rails, so all the cross supports are still there and unscathed.  This setup has better ground clearance, too. 

 

I'm going to have the upholsterer do the carpet, then make a cargo floor mat out of the same material as the carpet.  It'll look good, save the carpet, and you won't see the fuel door or battery box.

 

It'll be nice to turn the key and not worry if the battery has enough juice to start the car...

 

 

 

Edited by Duncan
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14 hours ago, mrbigtanker said:

Why did you not mount under the back seat. It’s hidden shorter wire run and no cover really needed. 

 

With the much smaller battery that I was using, the bottom of the box was already too low.  If the new battery was put there, it would be lower than the rear axle.  The two batteries I have used are top mounted posts, so I didn't want any of my fat-assed friends to sit in the back seat and cause a short.  The lid prevents that, and gives it more of a finished look, IMHO.

 

As far as cabling, I have that cutoff switch under the back seat.  I only need to go a few feet to the switch.  The cable to the starter has already been run.  The hardest part has been finding regular old-school battery terminals for my 4/0 cable.  That shit is manly 🙂

 

 

 

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