Drag Wag.

[Filthy_]

 

That cutout template was pretty much dead nuts. The ability to problem solve things like that is what separates the men from the boys.

 

 

Thanks for that.

[TENDRIL]

probably my favorite build 

[The Engine Room]

You've got a HUGE stress riser right here that will cause the sides of the flanges to fold in the opposite direction of the side of the pedal that receives the most pressure from your foot.

 

 

I would find a piece of tubing the same size as that closest speed hole and weld it in there to bridge the two flanges.

[Filthy_]

 

You've got a HUGE stress riser right here that will cause the sides of the flanges to fold in the opposite direction of the side of the pedal that receives the most pressure from your foot.

 

 

I would find a piece of tubing the same size as that closest speed hole and weld it in there to bridge the two flanges.

 

 

I actually was contemplating this before I painted it all and put it back together. Then I put it on the ground and stood on it and bounced my weight and it had no deflection. I HIGHLY doubt that I'll be putting 170+ lbs of pressure onto the joint at any normal driving, aside from... god forbid a crash or something.

 

I totally agree, it's less than ideal from the original specification. On the throttle pedal I had to pull out the Mig and fill in a few of the speed holes for the same reason, however the throttle pedal is not fully boxed like the other two.

[The Engine Room]

It'll be fine as long as you step squarely on the pedal. The failure mode will be from twisting stresses caused by stepping on one side of the pedal harder than the other. If you've ever looked at the wear on a brake pedal you'll see that that is how you usually apply pressure.

 

The brake pedal should be designed to take 3X your body weight because that is how much force you can apply in a panic jab of the brakes (the brake pedal lever is the thickest piece of steel on a Civic).

 

Just looking out for you, buddy.

[Filthy_]

 

It'll be fine as long as you step squarely on the pedal. The failure mode will be from twisting stresses caused by stepping on one side of the pedal harder than the other. If you've ever looked at the wear on a brake pedal you'll see that that is how you usually apply pressure.

 

The brake pedal should be designed to take 3X your body weight because that is how much force you can apply in a panic jab of the brakes (the brake pedal lever is the thickest piece of steel on a Civic).

 

Just looking out for you, buddy.

 

 

Goddamnit, now I'm second guessing myself. Next time I get them off I'll probably take the time to do that, things like that make me lose sleep.

[Filthy_]

 

Started in on the interior. It's been awhile since I've updated... but I've made a little progress. Mostly been camping and working non stop.

 

 

Been cruising this thing around a bit.

 

 

Tried my hand at making a tunnel. Been having a lot of fun figuring out this sheet metal shenanigans. It took me three tries to get this one.

 

 

First and second Tries :/.

 

 

Moved onto the next panel.

 

 

Here's my buddies project he finally put some time into. It's a 69 '02. The body is plopped on top of a GC WRX chassis that he cut the living shit out of. I'm unsure how he got that thing to fit on there, but it seems to be coming together. I guess the plan is an STI swap with a rear mounted radiator or something. Should be pretty easy once he gets the two cars together.

 

 

Started throwing a frame together for the next piece of the rear floor. Decided it would be a top notch spot to mount my compressors.

 

 

And also the tank.

 

 

Contemplating putting my valve box in that little support cube looking thing, and boxing it in to protect it from the elements that I'll never drive this car in.

 

 

Aired up clearence. Found some gents to build me a drive shaft, but it's probably going to be about 400 dollars, which I don't currently possess. Need to get the flange u-joing mount for my rear end, and figure out what I have to do and pay for a Nissan slip yoke.

 

Gonna keep hammering away at this floor. Once It's in I can run all the air lines and hopefully the brake lines as well. Air it up and haul it to my friend Scotty's place for some Intercooler action, and get the motor back together.

 

Thanks for looking!

 

 

[Filthy_]

 

Started templating the back out tonight. Welded in one more bar out towards where the door meets the body. I used 1/2 inch square to buy just enough room to match the existing wheel wells, and also keep the top aligned with the rest of the floor.

 

 

New tub template.

 

 

alright alright, came together pretty easy.

 

 

The rear piece. I'm afraid I may have to have some english wheel action on that existing hole... but we'll see once I get all of the other panels finished. Hopefully get all of the panels done before the end of the weekend!

 

 

 

really trying to work on this thing every day... someday I will drive this goddamn car.

[Filthy_]

 

 

Fucking ran both of the second panels through the bead roller the wrong way so I had to re-do them, but both tubs are finished. Gonna get a little more sheet on monday and finish this son of a bitch. Hopefully pull the motor next week and finish the exhaust box, move onto the Dashboard and start prepping the interior for some sort of paint!!

[Bory]

Are you going to seal off the rear doors and make it into a 2dr?

[Bory]

The only way you should do a two door is to use the longer front doors!

And that would be ultimate for this build! Really almost a must! Why not- you've come this far.

[Stoney]

Not a small job unstitching the B pillars and relocating them rearwards

[Duncan]

When I had all the paint off of my wagon, the B pillars "appear" to just be spot welded on.  IF that's indeed the case, it looks like 8-12 spotwelds per pillar, and Bob's yer Uncle.  You'd also have to convert 2 door sedan doors to the wagon by using the glass and the window frames.

 

A lot of work, but really cool, IMHO..

 

 

 

Not a small job unstitching the B pillars and relocating them rearwards

[INDY510]

I think you need 2dr door pillars,because the 4dr pillars are at a different angle  .... but with a wagon this custom it would be nice to open the back doors and weld something back together and easily access all the custom parts.  Plus, it looks awesome already, with the patina and 4 doors.

[datsunfreak]

Contemplating boxing it in to protect it from the elements that I'll never drive this car in.

 

This made me laugh out loud.   :rofl:

 

Friend of mine asked me if I was going to close up the two small holes in my cowl from where I removed the wipers in case it rains. I was like, what?

[Filthy_]

 

The only way you should do a two door is to use the longer front doors!

And that would be ultimate for this build! Really almost a must! Why not- you've come this far.

 

 

Nope, not happening.

 

I'm not one to do some crazy fab stuff just because it's crazy. First, I think a 2 door wagon (at least the ones in the photos I've seen) is a drastic step backward aesthetically speaking. Second... It's a wagon. I know there's no back seats, but it's still a goddamn wagon, and wagons have 4 doors and a hatch. Also, I like the fact that I can hang my arm out of the rear window from the front seat.

 

 

Moved onto the next panel last night.

 

 

Also, completely took the rear end apart to finish the floor and get ready to paint everything. I installed the GT-500 rear diff cover, and it looks pretty ridiculous. I had to shave off one of the interior heat sink fins to make room for the wheel speed sensor on my ring gear, but other than that it fit great. Also, the GT cover is about a half inch thicker than the sheet metal chrome one I previously had installed, So I ended up spending 15 dollars on new hardware... ghey. They Didn't have the allen head ones that fit nicely into the griggs watts link, but I honestly like the way that the Zinc hardware looks with the washers and all. Pretty tough.

 

 

Threw a bead on this guy and welded in some support on the back side. I think I'm going to leave the small rectangle on the top open, or make some mounts for a removable piece of lexan. It's a nice little access point for all of the air lines, and also the rear end links. You can easily reach all of them from there. The front 4 link bracket is a stretch but it's doable.

 

 

I had a left over can of this copper colored hammered finish rustoleum from a vice restoration project I did awhile back, so I said fuck it and painted the diff housing. The axle tubes and everything else is black.

 

 

Just waiting for the paint to cure so I can take off the mask and see how she looks! Gonna finish painting all of the links black tomorrow and rip the motor again, hopefully for the last time.

[Filthy_]

 

Started the night off by ripping out the motor and taking the front bags off again. The front wheel wells need new undercoat, and the bags all need some sort of rust protection still

 

 

Decided against painting the links. Sand blasted the shit out of them and then threw a quick polish, followed by a pretty serious coat of clear. Time will tell how it holds up, but it looks super clean.

 

 

Rear end all painted up, not sure how I feel about the copper center, but whatever.

 

Crawled underneath the car with an air hammer and was able to pound the floor up to match the new firewall pretty well, and also fill my eyeballs with sand. Planning on grabbing the last few pieces of sheet metal I need for the final floor panels tomorrow, and start seam sealing stuff maybe? 

[frank88]

This is such a serious build. Loving all the details.

[Filthy_]

 

Got these guys all painted, cleared, and put back together.

 

 

Did a thing, and grabbed the exhaust on my girlfriends dirtbike while trying to tune her fucking carb. So goddamn retarded.

 

 

Threw a nice thick coat of undercoating on everything and started to re-assemble the front end. Found out that I needed to notch these again to get the bolts to sit flush with the camber banged out. 

 

 

Shitty phone flash photo of everything coming back together.

 

 

Right about here is where shit got weird...

 

I was really stressed about the sway bar clearence, rightfully so. If you look closely where the sway bar pops out from underneath the car, you can see that the TC rod and the sway bar are hitting eachother. Luckily for me, the airbag is completely bottomed out in this photo, so where it is in the pic, is where it will be when I air out the car. I was really worried that when the car was lowered, and the sway bar rotated around in the bushings, the center of the bar would rotate into the bottom of the motor. I put the engine back in to check the clearance, and without knowing exactly where to put the angle of the motor with no transmission, I put it somewhere worse than it would be in it's final resting place, It's going to be wicked close...but I think I'll have just under like 1/4 of an inch to play with.

 

The issue now, is that the angle of the dangle between the lower control arm and the sway bar is a bit dicey. There's just no way to tie them together with a straight bolt and bushings. I'm going out on a whim and ordering some adjustable sway bar end links I found for a Volvo 240. The bottom of the link has a small hime joint built in to allow for the articulation, and the top has your usual poly bushings to give it the angle as well. From there I just need to fab up 2 tabs with a bolt to go through the control arm, allowing the hime joint to move freely. 

 

Just an Idea for now, but i'm confident I can still get the subframe on the ground and run this bohemouth sway bar. I contimplated saying fuck it and just not running one, but that just wouldn't be right...

 

I can't get any answers about this clutch that I purchased a few years back so I'm guessing I'll probably just end up buying a new one. Also need to buy a new 700 dollar fuel tank because the one I have is going to end up costing me more, and being more of a pain in the ass to make work (between getting and installing a surge tank, and pumps). Also, The nice little hanger cage I made for it is no longer there, because when I welded in the rear floor panel, I couldn't get the goddamn fuel tank back into the car (nice).

 

The plan now is to upgrade to a 15 gallon which has a 340 pump and sending unit built into it. It's not the cheapest, but Its really going to make my life easier... just need to find a way to make it removable from the BOTTOM of the vehicle.

 

Waiting on some money to show up, and I'm going to try and order the ECU, Tank, Guages, and clutch. 

 

Coming down to the home stretch now.

[Lockleaf]

Just Joel installed a fuel cell under his car that swings down to be uninstalled. Not really sure what you're looking to do, but if you go over his thread again,his install might get some creative juices flowing.

[datsunfreak]

 

 

 I'm going out on a whim and ordering some adjustable sway bar end links I found for a Volvo 240. The bottom of the link has a small hime joint built in to allow for the articulation, and the top has your usual poly bushings to give it the angle as well.

 

Any more info on these? Might solve a problem that's been perplexing me on my 1200 coupe.  :thumbup:

[Filthy_]

Any more info on these? Might solve a problem that's been perplexing me on my 1200 coupe.  :thumbup:

 

 

http://www.kaplhenke.com/products/240-adjustable-swaybar-endlink

[datsunfreak]

And looking at the pic, I think I just figured out how to build my own...   :P

 

 

 

Thanks!  :thumbup:

[Filthy_]

And looking at the pic, I think I just figured out how to build my own...   :P

 

 

 

Thanks!  :thumbup:

 

 

Yeup, pretty simple. The dude who sells them uses some pretty nice shit though, its definitely not out of my laziness and time crunch to spend a hundo on all of that goodness. Sourcing all of those parts, some of which appear to be machined... not at the moment.

[Filthy_]

 

Got this panel made. I cleaned it up and bead rolled the shit out of it but forgot to take a photo.

 

 

Also got both of these made, fitted, cleaned up, rolled and ready, but a friend called me into the pool hall for some rock moving so I decided to vacate. You can see the center piece rolled out in it's bowed glory in this photo.

 

my ECU is on the way... Hands down the fanciest piece I've ordered for this car. Cost 200.00 less than the car itself... and 4x the cost of my motor... ouch.

 

Fuel cell should be here by Monday of next week... try to finish this floor I guess...