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darc510

72 510 L20B/dogleg: Leeann (OIC Heavy)

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So, I'm finally making it around to turn this once race machine into a more reliable means of transportation.
Other than replacing an alternator, spark plugs, battery, ignition coil, and bleeding the clutch line just to get her running good enough for a short drive, i haven't really done anything. lol.

Here is how she sits:
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Today, i had some down time to work on her. So here is what i've done.
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I wanted a tach, but didn't like the idea of buying a used OEM one for $150+, so until i can afford a better aftermarket one. I used one that a buddy gave me. Just need to modify the bezel so it would hold in place...which worked perfectly
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So yeah, when I picked the car up a few months ago in Cali before driving to the East Coast, had a friend take some measurements and crafted me a strut bar, installed.
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Still need to make some adjustments for the hood to go down, but its almost there.

Don't have pictures, but I installed a gas pedal, new ignition wires, and a new speedometer cable so i'll actually know how fast i'm going....as if i really cared.

So tomorrow i hope to tackle my Solex Locks install, T/S my head lights and get those working, put my dash back together... and install air freshener.

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I'm trying to hunt down a better set of seats for Leeann, these buckets are no fun after an hour+ of driving (and i love to cruise). Can you share what you installed in your dime? I'd like to get something that came out of a coupe for the sake of being able to get access to the backseat easier.

Thx

 

Ross

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correct me if im wrong but i think 80's toyota celica seats fit in almost anything, possibly what my seats are, will post a pic when i tomorrow.

 

and i like the tach mounting

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Although I'm not a fan of the digital tach I like how you mounted it as well. What size is it? 52mm?

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Bitchin car here! The green bre paintjob is swell idea! Dig it!

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though I don't have pics of them in a 510 I used to own a fiero and the bucket seats from an 84 early 85 are very comfortable and have the bonus of built in speakers

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ordering new carpet, fender mirrors, and weather stripping.... going to keep trolling the local yards for seats.

I found a pair of seats in a Cobalt LT that might work. i'll try that out tomorrow, hopefully they are still there...

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I was able to get the tach working before i shut down shop for the evening, and it was reading 400rpm. Seems a bit low to me... i'll have to check but i think its suppose to be sitting around 600rpm. The engine is a L20B... other than a possible dirty carb, what could cause this to be low like that?

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Met up with Qwik510 (david) and Lee a while back, did some adjustments to the carb to get a nice smooth idle. Engine is solid. Having some troubles with the trans/clutch, in neutral when i push in the clutch to get going...the motor slowly kills out. Going to be dropping the trans tomorrow, hopefully, to take a peak at everything. just to make sure all looks good...more than likely i'll be ordering parts for her.

 

Went to the yard on friday and picked me up a set of 280zx struts,spindles,calipers and rotors...so i'm sure everyone knows where i am going with that.

Also, did some hunting for a possible center console candidate. I really liked the way Lee's old 510 looked, he used a ford Contour SVT console, fitment was great and looks awesome. but all the ones i seen at the 'parts garden' were either tan or gross.

Stumbled upon a 2003 Civic LX, compared possible measurements to the Contour and figured why not...its different. here is the Test fit... I think it will work!

 

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Also, a few weeks back picked up a set of 06 Cobalt LS seats...they are much more comfortable then those buckets. just need to figure out a rail system...wish i had a welder or a buddy with one.

 

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Well, since Feb really haven't spent as much time on the dime as i would have liked (or supposed) to...but never forgetting of what I want of this car, i have been doing quite a bit of parts collecting.

I bought this off of yenpit:

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To Fix this:

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Also, I was orginally going to install the Cobalt seats (above), but when i was down in Virginia beach a few weeks back i found this, with the passenger side and full back seat. Just need to be cleaned up. passenger are rear seats are much cleaner. Not bad for $100 for the lot.

The seats came out of a Saturn ION redline, much like the Colbalt SS seats.

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not too worried about the drivers seat being pretty, as this car will be driven and there should be a little wear by the driver.

This also has me considering a different paint color for the car...when I get to that point.

 

Some other parts i have acquired.

Saturn SL Alternator:

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510 spook:

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also think about adding this to the hood:

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(the hood scoop, not the recycling can, smart-ass) lol

I've seen this done before...i think it looks nice considering it has a lower profile than others.

 

Lets see, what else, oh:

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i got inspired by f350power's headlight mod, so here are some templates i made:

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his are a little different, he used euro spec lights, whereas i got mine from a US spec 5series BMW, so the spacing is different. not quite done yet, but should be completed and installed soon.

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The main thing that has been holding me back was my ever existing clutch issue and the fact that i have no level ground on my property to jack the car up safely. all my buds here live in apartments. I was going to have it done...but i'm not made out of money. So I stayed vigilant and made quite possibly the best investments ever in acquiring these:

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The three on the bottom i have had just before I bought the car last september...

 

These two:

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if you can believe me, which you should because i still have the receipt, i bought for $XX.XX each on EBay. :w00t: :hyper:

 

So, now i'm working on making a parking pad from crusher run and railroad ties. so i can get this lady running all over MD.

I have a full two weeks dedicated to this car in the middle of this month.

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Finally got some real down time from school work/responsibilities to show some love to the 510 this past weekend. My dad came up from VA to give me a hand and BS… some of the parts I’m removing aren’t bad, but at least I’ll have spares and have an exact time frame of their age.

 

Trying to make the most of a one-car garage to pull the engine and have room to work on/in the car as need be…but we made some good progress in between taking the family to pumpkin patch and catching up.

 

Drained and pulled the radiator. Just going to do a flush on this and put it back in with new coolant and water. No leaks, just need to straighten out a few fins and she’ll be fine.

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Also, took some picks of the old Alt connections. Since I plan to begin the upgrade from stock alt to 96amp IR Saturn alt, figured a pic couldn’t hurt for referencing.

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Cut the exhaust, planning on getting a better setup to allow a bit better spacing from the steering box and not to burn up my speedo cable.

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Final look over to make sure all connections are detached from the engine, including shifty motor mounts…

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And she’s out!

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My dad getting started on clutch removal…his wife in background trying to avoid parts on the floor.

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Cross member and engine bay pics…I got some cleaning to do

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Okay, now for some BS. Good thing I already planned on replacing these motor mounts. Good god, not only some crap welding to make a solid mount, but only having one side like this caused the other to split…very shady and scary shit.

Drivers:

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Passengers:

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Old Clutch and pressure plate:

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Clutch Masters Stage 1 225mm with lightened and balanced flywheel from Datsun Parts LLC.

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Pulled the old water pump…wasn’t necessarily bad, but since I had a new one on hand, why not. If anything I have a decent spare if this ever craps its self.

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Started to take a wire brush to the block… I’m not planning on entering into any car shows, but figured this would be a better time than any to get to those hard to reach spots. Holy crap, it’s blue under all that road grime.

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New flywheel installed and ‘newer’ trans cover plate on as well. The old one I took off had this horrible bend to it like a skateboard (because there were not bolts holding it in place). So it was like the bell housing had its own spook to let crap in..

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Clutch on alignment tool just before the pressure plate went on.

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Done!

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New Alt test fit with new ‘V’ pulley spaced, set, and locked down.

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Thinking I might be in the market for a new L series oil pan…but since there are no leaks. I’ll wait.

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So here is the new trans plate, nice and straight.

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Versus this old one, I could have straightened it out, but had the other on hand, putting the nicer one on was faster and cleaner.

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So now she waits until I finish the wiring for my Alt, clean the engine bay and cross member, take care of the other clutch components that need replacing, and get some spare hands to help guide her back in.

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oil pan looks fine.

If you got time repaint it.

The header, I see you have a round port head. If thats a round port header maybe best to just ceramic coat it. or loosely instll it and turn the wheel till it locks and modfly it then ceramic coat it.

 

Those paint jobs on those Trimill headers suck.

 

Look like you still have a point dizzy ,so best to keep the stock Accel type coil and ballast in there. If its a single point you could get a Pertronix. Or better a matchbox. but get it running first before you make to many changes and induce a proplem.

I see you have a 225mm clutch . I know you had clutch issue in the realm so hopefull you have the correct T/O bearing Sleeve and not the 510 one. I assume this is a 620 flywheel?Since this is a 225mm

 

 

also I see a slow leak on the input trans plate.

 

I dont know if you want to fix this now or later. Most people now clean it real good and seal soem kind of sealer. Lucky on my 510 I had a gasket as a spare I bought years ago. Now they dont have any gaskets and Icehouse said just use sealer. I forget the brand or type. If off get the input seal also. Best to measure as they are different sizes listed or order for the spec trans you have.

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Man you had it all apart. I would have replaced the rear main seal while it was already out and right there. Just for some added insurance! Last time I swapped a motor, I didn't. When the buyer (rustina) came and picked it up, we dropped the trans out, replaced it, then he was on the road. What a PITA it was in the driveway at night. Should have just taken two minutes and done it while the motor was out.... Lesson learned :D

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SDC10147.jpg

 

This rear seal may be the cause of this...

 

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and this...

 

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My reasoning is that the end of the crank is behind that engine plate and can drip down behind it, but in front of the flywheel, and run back into the transmission bell by the clutch as shown in the above picture. It's very unlikely that tranny oil would be able to climb up the engine plate and get all over the rear seal.

 

Possibly both are leaking too.

 

That's a dogleg cover plate. (oh yeah it's in the title) The seal is 32113-N2101 and about $5 at Nissan dealer or cross reference. The seal is the same as those in the B-210 and the A10 and none show a gasket available so use a sealer. I use Permatex. "The Right Stuff" grey gasket maker (may also be known as 'Honda Bond') is OEM recommended by Nissan too.

 

http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_makers/Permatex_the_Right_Stuff_Grey_Gasket_Maker.htm

 

I used this stuff when I had the transmission apart to change the tali stock. Read instructions, but you let set for 10 min to thicken and then bolt together.

 

Have a care and use just a thin smear. Nissan makes close tolerance parts and it will squeeze out including the inside. You don't wand this stuff blocking oil flow around the bearings under the cover plate. Less is more so don't apply it like toothpaste on your brush..

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Yup tranny oil is sulphur-y smell. Hell change it anyway.

 

To remove the cover plate take the 8 bolts out and reach in the clutch arm hole with a socket extension, like in the picture, and hit the pivot ball to loosen. Do NOT! try any other way you'll fuck up the nose that extends over the spline. Don't ask me how I know I'll deny breaking one off.

 

FS5W71Bteardown002Large.jpg

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just saw this build, love the tach idea!

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oil pan looks fine.

If you got time repaint it.

The header, I see you have a round port head. If thats a round port header maybe best to just ceramic coat it. or loosely instll it and turn the wheel till it locks and modfly it then ceramic coat it.

 

Those paint jobs on those Trimill headers suck.

 

Look like you still have a point dizzy ,so best to keep the stock Accel type coil and ballast in there. If its a single point you could get a Pertronix. Or better a matchbox. but get it running first before you make to many changes and induce a proplem.

I see you have a 225mm clutch . I know you had clutch issue in the realm so hopefull you have the correct T/O bearing Sleeve and not the 510 one. I assume this is a 620 flywheel?Since this is a 225mm

 

 

also I see a slow leak on the input trans plate.

 

I dont know if you want to fix this now or later. Most people now clean it real good and seal soem kind of sealer. Lucky on my 510 I had a gasket as a spare I bought years ago. Now they dont have any gaskets and Icehouse said just use sealer. I forget the brand or type. If off get the input seal also. Best to measure as they are different sizes listed or order for the spec trans you have.

 

The oil pan has a few dents in it, nothing that is causing an integrity loss or leak, so i'll leave it alone for right now. I do have a matchbox on my parts shelf, but like you said, get this running then i'll tackle that at a later time. I really only for see myself pulling this motor back out one more time, which would be to completely beautify the whole car, oil pan included. just want to enjoy riding her again :rofl:

 

When i purchased the clutch kit it came with everything...TO bearing too, so one less thing to hunt down.

 

Funny, not really that funny, thing about the 'round port' head...it's not. The one of the PO used three round gaskets for the header...when the head is square port. needless to say, i have the proper gasket on hand to match the head to header.

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Well if it smells like trans fluid you will know. Has that thick Honey texture also.

Motor oil will be different. But youll know when you feel/smell it.

 

couldn't get a sulphur smell, but it was thick like honey as described...

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Yup tranny oil is sulphur-y smell. Hell change it anyway.

 

To remove the cover plate take the 8 bolts out and reach in the clutch arm hole with a socket extension, like in the picture, and hit the pivot ball to loosen. Do NOT! try any other way you'll fuck up the nose that extends over the spline. Don't ask me how I know I'll deny breaking one off.

 

FS5W71Bteardown002Large.jpg

 

I will definitely do this, one less thing to worry about, the motor being out of the way should make this not too much of a PITA... seen the price for the gasket is only $5.08 online, but shipping is crazy ($12)... i'll call up the Nissan parts guys later today and have one sent in or something.

Thanks for that P/N btw :thumbup:

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just saw this build, love the tach idea!

 

Thanks, i was lucky that i didn't have to go to crazy with the dremel to get a nice fit. it is actually in place on its own. :)

this of course is temporary until i can save up for more Speedhut gauges... already have gas, water temp and voltage...But a nicer tach and speedometer is what is next on the list...maybe oil pressure too.

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