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brake conversion on 521


hollywood7600

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I called my local junk yard and they told me that they had 720 control arms and disc brakes to convert to a ball joint and disc brake suspension for 200 bucks. Is this a good deal. I dont wan't kingpin suspension, because of the hassle. Can I also put z32 calipers on, or is there a special kit for it. What year for 720 should I look to install on my 521.

 

 

 

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Won't work.

At least not straight bolt on.

 

http://community.rat...ook-here-first/

 

Lots of research on your part.

Get friendly with posts from a member named BEEBANI.

 

Another thing.

You keep making multiple posts about the exact same thing.

Stop that!

 

Do the research, ask the right questions, and learn.

There is a plethora of knowledge here. And most of it will not be spoon-fed.

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The brackets bolt to the kingpin spindles/dog bones.

 

When you go ball joint, you will know have spindles.

Nothing for the bracket to bolt on to.

 

Easiest method to convert to ball joints will be to buy custom lower and upper A-arms, then spindles from a 720/HB.

 

That should be enough to get started.

 

 

Why the hate for a kingpin set-up?

Fixing them will be cheaper than a ball joint set-up.

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Hey there hollywood7600, I have done what you are proposing to do, to tell the truth, it's kinda a pain in the ass, a lot of mods needed, but I did it all before Ratsun, and guys that made disc brake brackets, the stock 720 upper arm is not long enough, so that would need lengthened, you have to put washers in the lower control arms to take up the play/gap, the front struts are to big, 620 type will work. The 521 bolts that hold the upper A arms are to small, and sleeves need to be installed, and they seem to work loose a lot, that is something I am always tightening. I will never do it again, there are better ways, and kingpins are not that bad, they just need lubed a lot after being installed so they don't wear out.

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Won't work.

At least not straight bolt on.

 

http://community.rat...ook-here-first/

 

Lots of research on your part.

Get friendly with posts from a member named BEEBANI.

 

Another thing.

You keep making multiple posts about the exact same thing.

Stop that!

 

Do the research, ask the right questions, and learn.

There is a plethora of knowledge here. And most of it will not be spoon-fed.

 

haha, plethora. sorry to go off topic but you just reminded me of this,

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b6E682C7Jj4

:lol: hilarious

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I was undicided on staying with the king pin or ball joints. I tried to buy new king pins but no auto parts store has a kit. I will be going to Mexicali Mexico, out there they have alot of datsun parts new and used and inexpensive. I will get my camara tommorow, and will post pic of my 521. Iam just exploring all my options that I can do to my truck with the least amount of mistake's. I guess trial and error is the best way to learn. lol. I am glad to meet good ratsun friend here, thanks alot.

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I was looking at the wilwood and the 280z master cylinder. They both have dual reservoirs and that means I have to re-route my brake lines. So do I have to remove the distribution block on the firewall to hook up all the brake lines to the master cylinder.

 

You will need to redo all the fittings as well.

Best bet will be to plan on replacing everyline.

 

Like I said before, search.

SOCALDATSUN has a recent thread covering your next steps of research.

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To put a dual res m/c in the 521....brake lines.... There's a couple of ways to do it.

 

Use the existing line from the m/c to the block. Get a metric to SAE adapter to allow that line to connect to the new m/c which is metric.

Get a new (about 4'?) line from the parts store. If you get an SAE line, then get two of the above mentioned adapters. If you are going to cut/flare new nuts on the lines, then just flare metric nuts on to the ends of the lines at the m/c. At the block, disconnect the line to the rear brakes and put a plug into the hole in the block. On the line to the rear, put a barrel(butt) connector on it. Then the new line will go from the rear circuit of the m/c to the butt connector. The butt conn will be SAE, so, you can either flare a SAE nut onto a new metric line or vice-versa. Instead of the butt connector, you could put an adjustable proportioning valve in it's place.

 

Personally, I'd get a 4' metric line and a 4' SAE line. Cut one end off each and swap the nuts. You'll have two new lines with SAE on one and and metric on the other. Now, you can bend the new lines to fit from the m/c to the block and butt connector. You'll have to reflare the ends of the lines, but it will make for a nice looking setup.

 

 

As for the kingpins....consider how many miles your rig has one it. Once you replace the kingpins, they will be good for longer than you will own the truck. Ball joints will give a bit nicer ride, but it is a truck.....either way, it will ride like a truck.

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