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Replacing steering gear box.


620Soldier

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So I got me a 74 620 recently. It's all there and runs well. Steering seems to be going out though. Seems to be the only real major operation issue. SO I got a new box and then after some research seems it might just be the bearings going out. I figure I'll just toss in the new box as is. Seems like it's going to be a pain in the ass. After searching the interwebs and utilizing the search function locally, I can't find a how to or any tips that I could probably use with my lack of experience in such areas. Army buddy of mine says it would just be easier to pull the whole steering assembly and replace the box like that and put it all back in. But I'm not even sure what to do beyond sticking bearings and pulling obvious bolts and remembering where they go. Help?

 

tl;dr No idea how to steering stearing gear box.

 

 

Having a hard time posting oic's direct, so here's an on the spot photobucket links.

 

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OK, So I guess I figured it out. Not all the pics are steering box, but there definately related to the rest of my 620. Also, this took less time than resising every picture I ever took of the thing.

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First be sure that the old box is no good. Or is it worn steering components???

 

Raise the front end off the ground and watch the pitman arm on the bottom of the box as someone moves the wheel back and for through the loose section. The steering cross rod and tie rod ends are linked by ball joints and an idler arm and when any or all are worn the steering becomes very loose and sloppy. The steering box on the 620 has a 19 to 1 ratio so if there is only a 1/4" of slack from wear, this will allow almost 5 " of free play or slop on the steering wheel! Pull on each linkage part and look for side to side or front to back slop. Really look at the idler arm... it should turn from side to side only.

 

If your ball joints or idler arm are bad changing the box won't help and you will still have to change them when you are done. There is an adjustment you can make on the steering box too but the ball joints need inspecting first.

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  • 2 weeks later...

OK, took a bit longer than expected, I should really start factoring my procrastination habit, but I know what the issue is. Thanks to everyone for your help and tips. Turns out it really is the stearing gear box. The rest of the linkage to the tires is pretty solid, and probly won't need maintenance for some time. My Dad helped me check it all out, and I only accept this diagnosis so much more with his help. The "slop" seems I greatly exaggerated. Only bout 5 or 6 inches of play in the wheel. Think I said something around 10. Well, fixed a blow by hose breakdown, and will soon replace the box. Not looking forward to taking out the whole steering assembly, but I'm sure I will enjoy the project. Thanks to all again. This forum has really helped me out.

 

tl;dr Steering box is broke. Replacing it soon.

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Got the box from crackerjack69. He's parting out like 3 620's, so if you get on it soon (sooner than I updated this post, sorry.) He might have another left. He's out of Portlans, so shipping is a trivial thing I guess, Haven't had much experience in this place. Hope things work out!

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  • 3 years later...

If you click on his name you can view his profile page and  save a post here. He was last active ...

 

Last Active Feb 06 2014 09:34 PM  May be my imagination but he's not likely to see this thread but if you send him a private message it will be there when he logs in.

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  • 1 year later...

Question related to this my steering box just started leaking oil and it does have play .. I would say it has 3 to four inch play does that mean it's busted ?

 

The 620 steering box ratio is 19:1 So if you add up ALL the wear in the steering ball joints and play at the wheel bearings and it comes to 1/4 inch, the steering wheel will turn almost 5 inches before there is any turning of the wheels. Yes there can be some small wear in the box and yes it can be adjusted but first all the steering ball joints, idler arm and wheel bearings need to be checked first and made right.

 

Have someone move the steering wheel gently back and forth through this loose area while the wheels are firmly on the ground. Go underneath and watch the pitman arm move back and forth. Follow the movement of the cross rod to the idler arm and the two tie rods attached to each end. The idler arm should take the place of the pitman arm on the right side and mimic the exact movements. Hold each ball joint and feel for internal looseness or slop. You may even be able to see movement on one rod but not transmitted through the ball joint. Motion should be side to side only, and nothing wiggling up and down, so give a good tug on these parts.

 

The idler arm is usually the biggest cause of looseness from wear but there are also two ball joints on the cross shaft and two ball joints each on both tie rods for a total of 6. Raise the wheels and check for excessive wheel bearing play too.  

 

Only when all the ball joints and idler arm are in good shape and eliminated, should you worry about the steering box.

 

 

Steering box.... make sure it's the box leaking and not engine oil. There is a seal in the bottom that is replaceable.

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  • 3 years later...

19:1 is about right. Lower and it's too slow and much harder to turn. Higher and easy to turn but takes more turns so????

 

I would say it could be rebuilt at home or may be easier to swap it out for another. I've had them apart and the gears are good size and submerged in 80w90 so I can't see them really wearing much. There is a fairly large front and back worm gear bearing on the column that has to be properly shimmed to set the pre load. I think a visual inspection and set or reset all the adjustments would do the trick. 

 

If steering is sloppy it's more likely poorly adjusted wheel bearing pre load, tire inflation low or mixed make front tires, out of alignment, idler arm worn out or one of the 6 steering ball joints

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