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ol' 320

Anyone want to buy new 320 vent window rubbers?

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15 hours ago, Conner said:

It has two holes in it; one for the steering column and one for the shift column.  

I believe they were all the same, but the column shift boots just had the extra hole cut out, while the floor shift boots did not have the hole cut out.

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It's really hard to get photos of one that is installed, and this is my best one.

001.jpg

 

004.jpg

 

003.jpg

 

005.jpg

 

006.jpg

 

And mine isn't that good either, I will look at the other LHD one I have in a little while and see if the bottom is better.

 

 

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Some renderings of the 3D model I have:  

 

Steering%20shaft%20boot_23.jpg

 

Steering%20shaft%20boot_24.jpg

 

Steering%20shaft%20boot_25.jpg

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8 minutes ago, wayno said:

It's really hard to get photos of one that is installed, and this is my best one.

001.jpg

 

004.jpg

 

003.jpg

 

005.jpg

 

006.jpg

 

And mine isn't that good either, I will look at the other LHD one I have in a little while and see if the bottom is better.

 

 

Unless you're willing to pull it off (I doubt you do) then it just gives us a visual. Not exactly what I thought it looked like. Looks like the hard 3D print would be best if nobody has one "not" installed.

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I just posted some photos, I really don't want to pull that out, it would likely ruin it trying to remove it.

 

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Just now, wayno said:

I just posted some photos, I really don't want to pull that out, it would likely ruin it trying to remove it.

 

Understood

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On 11/13/2019 at 4:39 PM, Conner said:

I have a 3D model of one as well as a rigid 3D print of that model if that helps.  

 

 

 

How did the 3D print turn out? Picture?

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On 11/8/2019 at 12:28 AM, stevecar said:

Great job! I was skeptical that this would materialize, but I ordered a set last night.

What will shipping be for one set? For two sets?

Steve 

 

Shipping costs to the US:

Because the seals are light, combined shipping costs are almost the same. 

1-3 sets:

 

SAL (15-20 days) = 40 USD

Air parcel = 53 USD

EMS = 75 USD

Courier = 80 USD

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On 11/7/2019 at 10:28 AM, stevecar said:

Great job! I was skeptical that this would materialize, but I ordered a set last night.

What will shipping be for one set? For two sets?

Steve 

You really need to have faith! Leave it to an old retired US Navy Veteran to get it done!  😉

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2 hours ago, mickey1845 said:

 

Shipping costs to the US:

Because the seals are light, combined shipping costs are almost the same. 

1-3 Seals:

 

SAL (15-20 days) = 40 USD

Air parcel = 53 USD

EMS = 75 USD

Courier = 80 USD

It sounds like you mean 1-3 items. If items, I would still be interested in what the price for 2 sets would be.

I have had things sent EMS and that is tracked. What about the other methods?

Thanks,

Steve

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@stevecar Yes, you're right Steve. I meant "sets", not seals.

Shipping prices for 2 sets would be the same -- maybe some slight differences if we're shipping via courier. SAL is the only method that doesn't offer tracking. 

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13 hours ago, trakker98 said:

Understood

 

As I stated earlier, in order for us to be able to get ANYTHING made then someone needs to be able to provide a physical sample. The manufacturer doesn't have access to specifications or a physical 320. If we give them a sample that doesn't remotely resemble the end product we want then it opens the prospect of guessing. Guessing ultimately leads to a waste of time and money for the manufacturer and a forum thread that runs for eight plus years!

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28 minutes ago, wayno said:

I do not have any complete examples, all the bottoms of mine are giant holes.

That's understandable, I'm not sure we're going to be able to find someone who "does" have a viable sample and are willing to either remove it or part with it. So until such time this project will be set aside.

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This little feller is in a bit of a sad shape but he's off the pickup and available if it would help the project. Just my two cents, but as someone posted above, it should be re-popped with the column-shift shaft hole as a closed up depression so that it could be used with floor-shift pickups and the hole opened up for column-shift vehicles. Also the right-hand drive pickups would require a mirror image boot, I'm thinking. Quite a few pickups down-under.

 

Mast_Jacket_1.jpg

 

Mast_Jacket_2.jpg

 

Mast_Jacket_3.jpg

 

Mast_Jacket_4.jpg

 

Mast_Jacket_5.jpg

Edited by difrangia

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5 hours ago, difrangia said:

This little feller is in a bit of a sad shape but he's off the pickup and available if it would help the project. Just my two cents, but as someone posted above, it should be re-popped with the column-shift shaft hole as a closed up depression so that it could be used with floor-shift pickups and the hole opened up for column-shift vehicles. Also the right-hand drive pickups would require a mirror image boot, I'm thinking. Quite a few pickups down-under.

 

Mast_Jacket_1.jpg

 

Mast_Jacket_2.jpg

 

Mast_Jacket_3.jpg

 

Mast_Jacket_4.jpg

 

Mast_Jacket_5.jpg

It's EXACTLY what we need, great job, and a great deal. Would a different one have to be made for RH drive or simply rotated 180 degrees? I think it's the same, just flipped. I'll let you know how we will approach this so I'll get back with you.

Edited by trakker98
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I have 2 LHD Datsun 320s and one RHD Datsun 320, on the left hand drive trucks you can see the top of the gasket sticks out from the firewall around 2", the bottom sticks out from the firewall around 1/2" to 3/4", the column shift lever is on the right side, the RHD truck has the column on the left side, if you flip the gasket over to put the column hole on the left side of the column the 2" side is on the bottom and the 1/2" to 3/4" side is on the top and the holes will be pointing up instead of down towards the frame where the steering gear is mounted.

 

I don't think it is reversible between right and left sides, in my head I don't see it working as the column has to be on the tunnel side of the column on both sides, it's like the wing window gaskets, there is a left and a right hand side gasket.

 

I do think it is possible to mount the gasket on the inside of the cab, a left side gasket will mount on the inside of the cab on the left side and still work properly and most the gasket will be inside so it may last longer.

 

Edited by wayno
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49 minutes ago, wayno said:

I have 2 LHD Datsun 320s and one RHD Datsun 320, on the left hand drive trucks you can see the top of the gasket sticks out from the firewall around 2", the bottom sticks out from the firewall around 1/2" to 3/4", the column shift lever is on the right side, the RHD truck has the column on the left side, if you flip the gasket over to put the column hole on the left side of the column the 2" side is on the bottom and the 1/2" to 3/4" side is on the top and the holes will be pointing up instead of down towards the frame where the steering gear is mounted.

 

I don't think it is reversible between right and left sides, in my head I don't see it working as the column has to be on the tunnel side of the column on both sides, it's like the wing window gaskets, there is a left and a right hand side gasket.

 

I do think it is possible to mount the gasket on the inside of the cab, a left side gasket will mount on the inside of the cab on the left side and still work properly and most the gasket will be inside so it may last longer.

 

Ok Wayno, I see the issue. The protruding center for the steering shaft points down at an angle toward the steering box. On the RH drive simply flipping it then the protrusion would point up. That's what I get for assuming they were just straight. Got it, thanks.

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Once the CAD work is done for right or left, it's very easy to just "mirror" the object to get the other version.  I had mentioned putting a "slit" in it before to save removing stuff from the column to install it........I would prefer it didn't have that, it was just a suggestion.  It's not that hard to remove the steering wheel, blinker assembly and then drop the under dash support bracket.  Granted, there will be a couple more items for the column shift.  

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Wayno, what you posted is correct. A large portion of my work career was in the aircraft NC programming and manufacturing industry and working with a particular part from the drawing/computer model through the manufacturing cycle to the deburring or final stage of the part before heat treatment and finishing (processing and painting). Left-hand and right hand parts is the norm. At least 90% of aircraft parts come in LH and RH configurations. This part would need to be made LH & RH configuration or a good portion of customers would be cut out of the business possibility. There are a lot of these little pickups and a few crew-cabs and vans/station wagons in Australia and New Zealand in right -hand drive configuration. I have noted a few Aussies here on Ratsun and there is a larger percentage of down-under owners over on Datsun 320 Facebook forum. 

 

For Mike K's thought on flipping the RH boot over from inside cab to outside cab for right-hand drive pickups, it would work in theory, but take a look at the bottom computer model that Conner posted above in the thread which is a cross-section of the boot through the steering column hole. The obround hole in the firewall that the boot mounts in has a lip formed around it that protrudes out into the engineroom. This is for strength and to prevent drumming action in that area of the firewall where the column and shift rod pass through. take a look at the groove around the boot where it mounts into the firewall. It is a L-Gtoove that allows for the formed lip around the hole in the firewall. If the boot were made thicker with a T-Groove it could possibly reversed like Mike K proposed. It would be up to the reproducer whether they wanted to make an opposite part die/mold to serve that portion of the 320 owners or to modify the design to have a T-Groove. There are quite a number of these 320's being used/restored down-under.

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Good discussion here.  

 

I can post pics of the 3D print of my rendering soon.  

 

My original part had the base intact but the top portion was nearly gone.  I sent my rubber original to someone who did the 3D rendering using it and some pictures of original parts that were more complete as well as dimensions from my truck. 

I have actually made a mold and reproduced these unsuccessfully--walls of the part were too thin in places.  But the base of those repros definitely fits my truck well which gives me confidence that the base in my 3D rendering is good.  

Steve, your pics of your part are helpful in that they show me I had assumed the wall of the part where the steering shaft goes through is way too thin on my 3D model.  Can you measure the thickness of that part of your original and post it here?  

 

I was hoping to make this part for my truck and offer it to other 320 owners.  But after two or three unsuccessful attempts to create a silicone mold, I am happy to share the model I have if it will help us get closer to a professional part at a reasonable price.  Even if I were to get the mold right and cast these myself I think the casting urethane I can get my hands on would be inferior to the material available to a real vendor who uses an injection molding process.  

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2 hours ago, Conner said:

Good discussion here.  

 

I can post pics of the 3D print of my rendering soon.  

 

My original part had the base intact but the top portion was nearly gone.  I sent my rubber original to someone who did the 3D rendering using it and some pictures of original parts that were more complete as well as dimensions from my truck. 

I have actually made a mold and reproduced these unsuccessfully--walls of the part were too thin in places.  But the base of those repros definitely fits my truck well which gives me confidence that the base in my 3D rendering is good.  

Steve, your pics of your part are helpful in that they show me I had assumed the wall of the part where the steering shaft goes through is way too thin on my 3D model.  Can you measure the thickness of that part of your original and post it here?  

 

I was hoping to make this part for my truck and offer it to other 320 owners.  But after two or three unsuccessful attempts to create a silicone mold, I am happy to share the model I have if it will help us get closer to a professional part at a reasonable price.  Even if I were to get the mold right and cast these myself I think the casting urethane I can get my hands on would be inferior to the material available to a real vendor who uses an injection molding process.  

I say we wait until we're done with the wing window seals. We need to COMPLETE that obligation before we ask the manufacturer to pony up any more money. We have to show our commitments mean something to us.

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Conner, see if this is what you wanted on the thickness question ?? Looks like just over 8mm , .320 inch, or just over 5/16". Depth from the frontmost surface of the boot to the forward wall of the base that I'm measuring in the photo is about .300  . I can measure the angle between the firewall and steering column if needed to verify the model.

 

Fairly thick; This thick base where the column goes through and the grooved firewall base give the unit mounting stability when installed and the thinner side walls allow flexing as the cab moves around reacting to the dynamic forces that are part of driving around for decades that we never give thought to.

 

It's in sad shape but might be helpful used with the computer model in helping visualization by someone creating a mold to reproduce them. Keep it in mind, it's available if these folks are interested in re-poping them after the vent window seals.

 

Mast-Jacket-6.jpg

Edited by difrangia
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