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Fix a stock 510 tach.


AtomChurch

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Theres a article in the dime quarterly that explains this but i will take you through my steps. [thanks to mklotz for the scans of the article] I can send the scans to you if you need them.]

 

this is fairly simple to do.

 

First I went to the U-pull it and got a stock tach from a nissan sentra [not recomended by the article because it doesnt fit inside the stock tach box but I made do]

 

DSC05083.jpg

 

 

Then you take the board off of the stock nissan/datsun donor tach.

 

DSC05084.jpg

 

you locate the green/yellow wires on the back of the tach

 

Cut then wires off on the faceplate side so you have the most room to wire the new board in to the old face plate. Then strip the wires.

 

DSC05091.jpg

 

then set the donor tach aside.

 

Next take your stock tach and take off the face plate by removing the 4 screws on the front in each corner.

 

DSC05087.jpg

 

then remove the 4 screws on the back of the stock case and pull out the tach faceplate and the board that is attached.

 

DSC05088.jpg

 

proceed to remove the two boards [one in the stock orange needle tach] by removing the brass spacer bolts.

 

DSC05090.jpg

 

locate the green/yellow wires on the stock tach and cut them close to the board not the face plate [opposite of the donor tach!]

 

DSC05092.jpg

 

next I ran two new wires out of the back of my tach [ one for the green and one for the yellow] to connect to the new tach board. [since I got a newer year and the board was changed so that it doesnt fit in the stock box] Then just connect the green wire to the green wire and the yellow to the yellow.

 

DSC05094.jpg

 

 

now the tricky part. if you got a newer tach [like me] its not inductive. there are only three wires. The new board will have three wires comming off of it to connect to the harness in the car you pulled it from. Mine had a red,black, and a yellow. red was +12v. black was ground. and yellow went to the +side of the coil. now my tachs shows this when I give it some gas!

 

DSC05099.jpg

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Nice! So its now and inductive tach? The power goes through the tach to the coil?

 

 

 

I tried to do a similar swap on a spare gauge cluster I had. Nelson showed me his tach and speedo, basically S13 stuff made to fit in the factory location. But I gave up.... All the little pieces started pissing me off! :D

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The stock was was inductive but since I grabed a newer one from lack of old datsun's at U-pull it It wasn't inductive. the inductive one gets wired through the tach to the neg side of the coil.

 

its pretty simple to just replace the boards. if you had to re-solder the resistors and caps that would get frustrating, but I didnt notice the hand made quality on the origonal stock tach. you know like when I was in high school learning to solder the copper tracing on the board.

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hhhmmm I need to do some reading :D Need to figure out how to wire the tach's up to the newer motors.... Its hard to get motivated when I have the old dash that doesn't even have a tach :D

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haha well I was motivated when some guy was selling his stock tach on CL. I got really excited and went and bought it and never even asked him if it worked.

 

But if you do what I did and get a newer nissan/datsun tach with the 3 wires instead of the for [the one's with 4 are the inductive ones] then you can hook it up to newer motors, unless you have some fancy motors then you just get an adapter. or whatever.

 

thats why I stick with my L20. Its not stock, but its all datsun.

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I love my tach! It never goes above 3500 rpm! Saves on my motor!:blink:

I can b doing 50 in 2nd gear and she is still pegged rite @ 3500! I hear it is a rare item:D

 

thats what happend to the stock one. then it just stopped working. its a metal thing stuck holding it from going all the way up. open it up and take it out!! then it should go all the way up.

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you would have to get one that gits in the stock loaction. meaning a stock tach. but yes you could just fudge another one in the spot. i have seen some people cut the center out of that area and put a tach between the oil/brake/charg lights.

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  • 1 year later...

I have a stock tach in my 71 Wagon. It moves a little, but not much. I pulled it apart to see if maybe it was dirty, grimy, or had a hairball or something, but when I did, it sparkled. The thing's like NEW. When I got it, it wasn't even plugged in. If it moves a little, but isn't accurate, is there a chance that it's still good, and maybe I'm doing something wrong? Or should I just bite the bullet and do the swap..

Thanks on the write up, by the way. I may end up needing it :rolleyes:

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I have a stock tach in my 71 Wagon. It moves a little, but not much. I pulled it apart to see if maybe it was dirty, grimy, or had a hairball or something, but when I did, it sparkled. The thing's like NEW. When I got it, it wasn't even plugged in. If it moves a little, but isn't accurate, is there a chance that it's still good, and maybe I'm doing something wrong? Or should I just bite the bullet and do the swap..

Thanks on the write up, by the way. I may end up needing it :rolleyes:

 

I would try and save it. But not sure if it really matters. My tach moved a little too and i ended up just doing this and now it works. good luck.

 

also look for a small board at a junk yard that fits in the stock location.

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Mr. Atom, please remove those scans of The Dime, Quarterly. You do not have permission to replicate the material. This also goes for Mr. Klotz.

 

It is unfortunate that my first Ratsun post has to be such an annoucement. I have seen this occur previously on Ratsun and let it slide, however it would seem that has only led to more of this happening, and now full scans have appeared.

 

The Dime, Quarterly, is the only technical resource out there for 510 enthusiasts. We try to put together top-notch issues full of relevant content and make sure the articles are proofed and photographed or illustrated as well as possible. We don't do this for money, as none of the DQ volunteers get paid. We do this so that there IS a technical resource our there for 510 enthusiasts.

 

A subscription to DQ is a paltry $15. That's the same price it has been since last century. Ressurrecting one 510 tach is easily worth the $4.50 for a back issue. Moreover, supporting DQ via a subscription does provide funds to DQ to help support events like JCCS (we have been a sponsor of JCCS for some time) and helps pay the hosting fees for http://www.diimequarterly.com, where there is much content that we don't charge for.

 

Thank you,

 

Julian

DQed

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  • 1 month later...
  • 4 years later...

I am sorry. I did not know that particular article was protected.

 

 

All the DQ stuff is now available online for free.

 

All the DQ back issues are at this link:

 

https://docs.google.com/folder/d/0ByCvxnHNk90SYzc4N2E1MWEtMzg0MC00YTE4LTkxZGQtM2RjODA5ODA1YjU1/edit

 

 

 

The tach repair stuff is located here:

 

Volume 2 Issue 4 Page 12

 

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0ByCvxnHNk90SMDMzMmRmZWYtOTRjZC00NGQ0LTg2NWQtOTcyNDk3MDJiZjFj/edit

 

 

Tach1_zps07d291e8.png

 

Tach2_zpsdcf30b93.png

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