My 521 down in the lab...

[flatcat19]

Sounds like a job at Schwab has made you angry. 

 

 

I'll align anything too. Even if our machine doesn't list the vehicle I can still read all the angles and adjust them. 

[izzo]

Sounds like a job at Schwab has made you angry.

 

 

 

I'll align anything too. Even if our machine doesn't list the vehicle I can still read all the angles and adjust them.

 

Lolol nah it's a bitch at times. But I dig it. Same here man. Factory specs are just a base guide to go on, really. I can see the numbers and know exactly what to adjust or tweak to make it right.

[bananahamuck]

Sounds like being on facebook so much  has made you angry. 

 

 

 

 

 

 i don't "work" for Macys but i can for a fact tell you they don't sell 1/2 inch ratchet sets B)

  Maybe shops in less populated areas have to take work Schwabs in higher populated areas won't ... Either way i have and many of my fellow hotrodders been told that the shop (les schwab)  can't do it without some arbitrary part being hung or  ,,,,,,,,,,,,,, after waiting all day to be told sorry we just couldn't get it right,,, then take the car to a smaller shop and they say the schwab guy left shit way the fuck outta spec. :geek: .. 

 

And one last thing,,,,,,,,, if you run out to the car and grab my keys,, i would expect not to be sitting in waiting room 4 hours later waiting to get a flat fixed,..

[izzo]

Lol right. Each place runs different. And, first come first served. Even with lots of workers. Shit takes time and gets backed up

[jesusno2]

I will still stand by my statement and the stores are run different. I know izzo works there and I have friends that have worked there. But i damn near got in a fist fight with the alignment tech and schwabs in dallas when i rebuilt the front end in my 720 i machined some spacers to get me some more negative camber on my 720, and they wouldnt align it after almost a month wait because i didnt use there stupid H shaped shims and it was to much work to unthread the bolt all the ways to change them! Needless to say i set the toe myself and never changed the spacers put the truck on another shops alignment rack and my camber on the passenger side was only .3 more negative than the other side and i had about 1/16 more toe in than i wanted.

[izzo]

I will still stand by my statement and the stores are run different. I know izzo works there and I have friends that have worked there. But i damn near got in a fist fight with the alignment tech and schwabs in dallas when i rebuilt the front end in my 720 i machined some spacers to get me some more negative camber on my 720, and they wouldnt align it after almost a month wait because i didnt use there stupid H shaped shims and it was to much work to unthread the bolt all the ways to change them! Needless to say i set the toe myself and never changed the spacers put the truck on another shops alignment rack and my camber on the passenger side was only .3 more negative than the other side and i had about 1/16 more toe in than i wanted.

 

 

I'm sorry man.  Can't speak for those guys.  I align anything that comes in.  If it needs something, or is out of whack. I just make notes so I have a scape goat, and will write you up a quote to fix it and give you a 30 day free warranty align if you are not satisfied.  I know I am way the hell away, but the offer stands for anyone.  I will do what I can to give you what you need.

 

That .3 degree can mean the difference between drifting to the right with the road crown, and staying straight lol.

[flatcat19]

I feel like I started this thread jack-bitching about schwabs. 

 

 

I've got one more gripe then will bow out of said thread-jacking. 

 

 

 

I mounted my K5s that I got from Jrock at work today. Slight strech on the tires. Whatever. 

I severely dislike the wheel weights we have in our shop. I took my wheels to Les to get them balanced.

 

I only had one request. No clip weights on the outside.

They static balanced the wheels; not a fan. But that is not my gripe.

 

Sixty fucking dollars to put some sticky weights on my wheels. Seriously like 20 minutes worth of work.

I was even in my uniform. No industry love at all. Just a good, dry fucking.

 

/out.  

[izzo]

Nah. Just talking. Shitty they said that. From my understanding, the main office laid down the law that (and this is me trying to help you guys in the future at schwabs.) That it is policy, to align a car and make a recommendation and quote for any work that needs done. So with that said. Next time tell them to call Prineville and ask what their policy is for aligning cars. I've seen people be canned for not following policy.

[skyshadow]

Great Scott!! This is a build! You sir are a metal working master. Love the look and the innovative approach to things. 

[blackdeth666]

Its been awhile since I've been out and played with the old 521. Last November I pulled the motor out. It had been burning oil for sometime now, and started to run rough. It was time. My plan was to rebuild the L20 and I was all gung ho about it. Upon disassembly I found a burnt up exhaust valve on the no.4 cylinder. So this is why it felt like it had the power of  a geo metro! I dropped off all my parts down at autosport in ballard to be machined. It took about a month for them to finally tell me my block was cracked!!! Right in between 2 and 3 where the head bolt and water jacket are. Not to worry, I have a spare block. Well turns out that one is cracked too. balls. now what... After some time contemplating what direction I wanted to go, here is what I decided

I picked this KA up a year or 2 back with intentions of it going in my wagoon. Well given my current situation and the truck being much closer to road-worthiness, plans have changed. The goon will keep the L16 and the truck gets the KA. It should really wake this fucker up!!! Ive done nothing more right now than just set it in there for a test fit. My plans as of now are this:

-Pull it back out and do an EGR delete, and alternator brackets to delete the power steering pump (maybe keep the power steering??)

-cut off the battery trey that I spent several hours making a few years ago:( and relocate battery to bed

-remove the steering box and tie rods for rack and pinion conversion.

-fab up motor mounts

-source a new radiator, or refurbish old one?

 

I know the list will grow but this is my focus as of now. Also, my cool hood blisters will no longer be useful to me because they are in the wrong place for the KA. Doh! So I am in the market for a new hood. I would be willing to pay cash or make a trade with someone for their hood. I put a lot of time into it and I'd rather see it on someone else' truck then simply cut them off. Local preferred or maybe a trade at canby :devil:

ready for your 3" bodydrop or just make your 521 look faster! haha

[]2eDeYe]

I dropped off all my parts down at autosport in ballard to be machined. It took about a month for them to finally tell me my block was cracked!!! Right in between 2 and 3 where the head bolt and water jacket are. Not to worry, I have a spare block. Well turns out that one is cracked too. balls. now what... 

 

 

I went through 2 blocks before the 3rd was not cracked. This is also what helped me decide KA. Hard to argue with the power and parts availability. 

 

Can't wait to see the new hood :devil: 

[skyshadow]

I have an old L16 block if you want/need one. 

[hobospyder]

where'd the cracked blocks end up at?

[blackdeth666]

Skyshadow- I'm just gonna keep moving forward with the KA but thanks

 

hobospider- They are in my driveway awaiting the scrap yard. I have 2 engines worth of rotating assemblies too if anyone is interested in that kind of stuff.

[Jester]

If the L16 cranks are factory spec, PM me please. 

[skyshadow]

KA is cooler anyways. And more reliable. 

[Eagle_Adam]

Yay for the KA!!

[blackdeth666]

Well Its been sometime since an update! The 521 has been on the back burner for few years, but it has definitely not been forgotten about in my mind. Life is just much busier for me than it was when I started driving/building it. But it's all been for the better, bought a house with a shop, growing my business, got engaged, travelling and so on. I started working on it again back in March but it was just here and there. I'm attempting to hit it hard this rainy season and get it back on the road for next year. I figured a ratsun update would be a great motivator plus I know its just not fair for me to build in secrecy! lol. Here's how it sat collecting dust while i was neglecting it

The new Ratsun laboratory. A far cry from my old shed with the wood floors where it all began!

Oh yeah i got a new daily too? Don't worry, my heart is still with the old dattos, I just have a commute now and I can't see myself driving a Camry

Cab coming off 

Did it by myself, it was sketch! but thats how it's always been! 

Here's the first test fit with Redeye's 521 KA mounts

Exhaust needed some tucking...

The exhaust used to route above the trans Xmember, but goddamn the floor got hot under my feet! So here's my solution

This was from the same piece of 3 1/2" tubing I made the channel through the rear IRS subframe

 

I have more progress done, I will upload more pictures very soon!!

Edited November 7, 2018 by blackdeth666
Sorry, trying to figure out how to embed pics

[mrbigtanker]

Wow. man good to have you back, always loved your build. Keep it up I will be watching you.lol

[blackdeth666]

After researching all the steering options I could think of, I decided to use a mustang II manual steering rack from Speedway motors as my specimen. Why? Rack and pinion, set up for front steer, Economic, similar width, very readily available in power and manual, chrome or cast, etc. I think I paid about $120 for it. I was able to go on Moog's website and cross reference tie-rod ends until I got lucky and found ones that had the same threaded female ends as the mustang II rack, and the same size tapered ends as the 521 steering arms. My alternative plan was to ream out the 521 steering arms until the mustang II tie-rod ends fit in. Glad I got to skip that step!

I did have to cut about 1.5" off of each side of the steering rack but there was more than enough threads for the tie-rod ends to thread all the way on still. Motors back in and ready for a test fit. Things are looking good! The universal steering joint and double D shaft I also got from speedway motors. This will connect to the B2200 steering column I put in back when I did the body drop. I also went and saw my exhaust guy in town and had a piece bent and flared to tie in the KA down pipe to my existing exhaust. The 3 bolt flange I got off of ebay for like $20 or so. 

My only reservation about this setup it that the distance between the knuckles on the rack (where it pivots to accommodate suspension travel and ackermann steering) is about 6" wider overall than the distance between where the LCA's pivot on the frame, which could potentially lead to bump steer. I am hoping that the relatively flat angles of the LCA's and the stiff, minimal travel from the coilovers will work in my favor.

 

like this:     I______I

Rather than this:    I/-------\I                 ( forward and back slashes representing the control arms, at an exaggerated angles but the best i can do on the keyboard) 

 

I've spent many hours thinking about this but I've never modified or built steering before. I won't know until I road test it.

[thisismatt]

Take the coilovers off and cycle the suspension, no?

[blackdeth666]

1 hour ago, thisismatt said:

Take the coilovers off and cycle the suspension, no?

That is a great idea! Not sure why that hadn't crossed my mind. I suppose I'd measure the distance between the steering arms where they would be under normal load, then again at full compression. Anyone know what would be an acceptable amount of difference?

[Duke]

You might look into a MKII Escort steering rack.  They are much narrower than Mustang II racks and available in LHD, front steer configuration.  They are readily available from England in many different ratios.  The bump steer should be much better than with the mustang rack.

[dukerollo]

Good to see you back on here. Your fab work never fails to impress. 

 

You were building that lifted 510 as well right? I think I see it in the corner of the one pic. 

 

I look forward to updates on both cars. 

[blackdeth666]

12 hours ago, Duke said:

You might look into a MKII Escort steering rack.  They are much narrower than Mustang II racks and available in LHD, front steer configuration.  They are readily available from England in many different ratios.  The bump steer should be much better than with the mustang rack.

Thanks for the tip, that definitely looks like an option! I'm going to keep pushing forward with what I've got but that will be my alternative if this doesn't work out.

 

6 hours ago, dukerollo said:

Good to see you back on here. Your fab work never fails to impress. 

 

You were building that lifted 510 as well right? I think I see it in the corner of the one pic. 

 

I look forward to updates on both cars. 

Thank you! Yeah I still have the wagon, thats been collecting dust as well, and it's been great for storage haha! But it's living indoors so it's aging nicely, not wasting away. I hope to get back on that once the truck is running again.