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Started with trans problems....


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Just bought my (first) 510 about 5 days ago and i'm on a road trip : the good


Stuck on the road with transmission problems and now she won't start up: the bad

She has a l20b block, a87 head, 5-speed dog leg trans.


New starter, new alternator, new battery, new fuel filter, distributor is good, spark plugs are good too.


Had some beginning troubles with hard shifting into 1st-3rd gears. Whenever I pressed the clutch pedal in, sounds like the engine was slowly choking out, eventually dies if its held in too long (more than a second).


After making a stop for gas, she wont crank over. And when she does get going, its real hard to get it in neutral just to have it run for a few seconds…

I'm stuck. Any ideas, suggestions?



(i'll do a better intro when i get her running, just want her fixed firstcool.gif )

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@Jesse C. - there were some noises (being how i have no carpet/insulation, i hear everything). when i held the stick the noises would go away, but they were intermittent. sounded like a little rattling or clanking.


@Darrel and datzenmike- fluid in the master looked like a grey mocha drink, i soaked some of that out and topped with brake fluid. it felt a little better when i did this earlier, but still looks questionable. i realized that my master's cap rubber gasket was missing when i did this, so i had to make do with using a condom and electrical tape. i hope air didn't find itself into the system for as long as it may have been without that gasket.



could a linkage issue cause this? wondering if there is a what i can adjust this... looking it up in some Datsun manuals i have downloaded.

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Replacing the top fluid doesn't help the crap that is in the line or in the slave at the other end. It needs bleeding to get rid of the polluted fluid and force any air out of the lines. Brake fluid will absorb water out of the air and water will corrode steel parts anywhere in the system.


Get under the pass side and find the bleeder screw on the back of the slave. Have someone pump the clutch several times and hold down. Loosen the bleeder and fluid, and or, air will shoot out. (so be ready) Close the bleeder and repeat. When 4 or 5 times in a row produces only clear fluid free of any air bubbles, consider the system bled. BE SURE TO CHECK AND KEEP THE RESERVOIR FULL OF NEW FLUID WHILE BLEEDING. Failure to do this will pump air into the system and you have to start over again.


Sometimes fluid will siphon out by it's own weight and bleed itself. Just make sure you get all the air out and the reservoir stays full.


Get another cap from a brake or clutch master ASAP to keep water out.

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so i got a good flush done for the master cylinder for the clutch, finally got rid of those air bubbles. much firmer clutch pedal now, so neutral can be achieved.

but now i'm not getting her to crank over.

voltage is good on battery, and alternator is good, having been only replaced about a week ago.


all i get is a click or two when then key is turned (with the oil light illuminated as usual)

the starter is fairly new, but could this be my culprit? it only clicked a hand full of times when trying to start it up, after i gave it a little love tap.

but wondering if the link of problems i have had/having with transmission is making it seem like i have a started problem.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Finally been able to have some free time to get back to this.



Replaced oil filter, new oil, and new spark plugs. Stole a battery out of one of my other cars and she turns over now.... just can get it to get running.

There was only on two occasions of many attempts that it actually was running. very weak idle though, thought giving it a little gas would revving, but i died out.

also, when i'm turning the key and getting good cranks. i pushed in the clutch and the engine sounded like it was being choked out. so until i can tackle the actual 'engine running problem, i'll leave the trans out of the equation... unless, someone things this is a compound issue as to why the motor won't spin up for me. i'll try to get another video on here to supplement what i'm saying (pictures say a thousand words, so videos must say millions).


i do still need to do a compression and timing check, which will more than likely be done tomorrow.


> i have looked through my 620 book and can't find the spacing specs for the spark plugs, i picked up some NGK G-Power Platnium alloys that have a spacing of 0.044. do i need to adjust this?



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Realized that i haven't posted any pictures of the 510... and don't want to be called a troll, lol. so here are few shots:







haven't been able to work on her lately... which makes me a bit upset considering i bought her to drive her. but it will happen, eventually... just want to do everything right, so that takes patience!




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  • 3 weeks later...



replaced: bleed out clutch line, oil, oil filter, spark plugs, battery.... and the final thing needed was the ignition coil rolleyes.gifrolleyes.gifrolleyes.gifrolleyes.gif


so happy, took her out for a spin and man it feels great!


just need to put a few interior items back together and i'll be good for a while!

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